Gigabyte Z68X-UD3H-B3 weird voltages?

[xidio]

Hello.

My UD3H seems to be acting weird, or this might be normal. Anyway, the issues I am having are that the motherboard doesnt seem to read any voltages properly.

Every software out there that measures voltages show me incorrect values.

CPU-Z would show me 1.056V on Vcore.
HWMonitor would show me 1.06v on Vcore, but 1.21v on CPU. It also shows -4.85V on -12v and -6v on the -5v. +12v would be +8.26v
Realtemp is unable to read Load and MHz.
Easytune6 says my load voltages (running Prime95) is 1.212v when Ive set them to be 1.28v in the BIOS. But when I am idling it shows 1.272v.
And the BIOS itself shows 1.26v on Vcore instead of 1.28v in PC Health. Why is this?


And I cant Flash my BIOS because the BIOS cannot see my USB stick, and it cant see any harddrive in the PC either if I were to save the current BIOS.
@Bios doesnt have any updates for the revision I am using (1.3) and there is no explanation how to do it via @Bios manually (only some poorly translated guide)

[Gloup_Gloup]

Hi xidio,  

I understand your questions. I'm just saying that each software has its own algorithms. So values displayed are are necessarily different.

Another point, the temperature is taken it in the center or periphery. It is understood that the temperature inside the core of cpu is not the same thing as on the side.

So for more explications about CoreTemp, visit :
http://www.alcpu.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=892
and
http://www.alcpu.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=2130

I do not read, if you have a 64bit version, so she is here:
http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/php/download.php?id=3

Note : Sandy Bridge VID is not exactly seen by CoreTemp,

-------------------
The voltage shown in CPU-Z and the first "CPU VCORE" voltage shown in HWMonitor is actually the QPI/VTT voltage.

If you look at HWMonitor, the second "CPU" voltage towards the bottom of the list of voltages is the actual Vcore voltage.

CPU-Z is not capable to correctly read off Sandy Bridge  IMC - Integrated Memory  Controller.
In the CPU-Z Hardware supported List , the chipset Z68 is not listed.

Extract the FAQ of CPU-Z
CPU-Z reports my CPU running below its clock specification or the clock speed is varying.
This is the effect of the CPU power reduction mechanism :
C1E (Enhanced Halt State) and/or EIST (Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology) for Intel CPUs,
Cool'n'Quiet and or PowerNow! for AMD CPUs.
Load your system and you will see the frequency increase to its nominal value.

Source : http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html  (See below the page)

Partialy solution for have a better temperature :

take a small ajustment with LLC. Load Line Calibration in BIOS.
This manipulation with LLC, you give a way to modify voltages at lower position.

Use a Intel's SpeedStep and low power state technologies.
But if you make a strong Overclocking, the best is disabled in BIOS, this functions.


Finaly about temperature, if in doubt, trust you that you see in the BIOS.

===================================
About your USB key.
Probably is not formated in good mode.
Use a FAT32. And reinstall Flash program and Bios find on the Gigabyte website.
During the post, Use a END key on Keyboard for acces to Flash pgm.

But for other consideration or situation, if you want view or go to USB key, use this procedure:
Just a time when display a Device...or before...
With a F12 key on Keyboard, you obtain a Menu for choose a Device for Start OS, or your DVD, or your USB key.
See in Hard Drive section ... probably your usb key is present.

====================================
About Flash Bios
Normaly a End Key is for Flash a Bios. When the post appears.

...
Use a QFlash to reflash BIOS ( Never use @BIOS, because is not good orIt is not the best ..)

More help about How Do I Update My BIOS?  Read it, this is the best.
http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2441.0.html

But Before AND after Flash a BIOS...

I do not know if you've done that ... but I invite you to do so.

I suggest you apply the following instructions (quote from Dark Mantis) ...
===================================================

Hi
...

Try clearing the CMOS before installing the GPU. follow these instructions exactly.

Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.

Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least one hour before replacing it.
 
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
 
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Optimised BIOS Defaults.

Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self like disabling the floppy drive, disabling the full screen logo and making the HDD the primary boot device and then press F10 to save and exit.

And during a Flashing BIOS...

Hi
...
Try using QFlash to update the BIOS to the latest version and make sure that youi disable the "Keep DMI Data" on the QFlash homepage.

Last Question : Have your a Moterboard Rev 1.0 or 1.3 ?

Gloup_Gloup

[Dark Mantis]

Hi

I see that Gloup_Gloup has already given you a bit of reading to do but I just wanted to briefly give a few pointers.

The motherboard sensors could be faulty but that is not necessarilly the case. You have installed a lot of the Gigabyte bundled software by the sounds of it and that is not always the best around, also the more programs you have reading these sensors the more varying answers  you will receive. Better to clear off most of them and stick to one or maybe two programs that you can trust.

Also the BIOS hasd many settings that can have an effect on the voltages. Most of these are power saving options and so make it hard to keep track of what is really being output. Things like Intel's EIST enable the processor to run faster or slower due to the workload along with several other settings. There are of course also setting related directly to the voltages.

A decent capable power supply is also critical and if you have some "no namer" then I would swap it out quickly for something reliable  like Seasonic, CWT, Corsair, Thermaltake, Enermax, Gigabyte, Coolermaster, Antec, etc and try and get one with a single 12V rail if possible. I would advise you to get one of about 650W minimum depending on your hardware demands.

I would say that unless you have a problem with the board that is voltage connected don't worry about them.

[xidio]

Hi

I see that Gloup_Gloup has already given you a bit of reading to do but I just wanted to briefly give a few pointers.

The motherboard sensors could be faulty but that is not necessarilly the case. You have installed a lot of the Gigabyte bundled software by the sounds of it and that is not always the best around, also the more programs you have reading these sensors the more varying answers  you will receive. Better to clear off most of them and stick to one or maybe two programs that you can trust.

Also the BIOS hasd many settings that can have an effect on the voltages. Most of these are power saving options and so make it hard to keep track of what is really being output. Things like Intel's EIST enable the processor to run faster or slower due to the workload along with several other settings. There are of course also setting related directly to the voltages.

A decent capable power supply is also critical and if you have some "no namer" then I would swap it out quickly for something reliable  like Seasonic, CWT, Corsair, Thermaltake, Enermax, Gigabyte, Coolermaster, Antec, etc and try and get one with a single 12V rail if possible. I would advise you to get one of about 650W minimum depending on your hardware demands.

I would say that unless you have a problem with the board that is voltage connected don't worry about them.

I have a Corsair TX650W and its enough imo.

And why is it that the voltages decrease so much during load? With AMD the voltages increase during load, and decrease during idle.

And to the guy above, I said the revision is 1.3 of the motherboard. (And you guys should get someone to update the @BIOS to include all motherboard revisions and bios'es)

[absic]

Hi there,

actually, on the 9 series AMD motherboards the voltage drops under load in the same way as you are experiencing. This is due to LLC and is done by design to protect the CPU.

I have just taken delivery of the Rev1.0 version of the GA-Z68X-UD3P-B3 motherboard so I am still trying to understand all of the options in BIOS when it comes to CPU Control but there should be an option to set the LLC to one of several different levels. This can be found under the MIT Section of BIOS, Advanced Voltage Control, Multi-Steps Load Line. I haven't played with this parameter yet but my understanding is that it should even out the VDroop.

[xidio]

Hi there,

actually, on the 9 series AMD motherboards the voltage drops under load in the same way as you are experiencing. This is due to LLC and is done by design to protect the CPU.

I have just taken delivery of the Rev1.0 version of the GA-Z68X-UD3P-B3 motherboard so I am still trying to understand all of the options in BIOS when it comes to CPU Control but there should be an option to set the LLC to one of several different levels. This can be found under the MIT Section of BIOS, Advanced Voltage Control, Multi-Steps Load Line. I haven't played with this parameter yet but my understanding is that it should even out the VDroop.

Ive had 955 and 720 BE, both had a solid vcore during load.

And Ive heard both good and bad things about LLC.
Bad thing being that the vcore is like a waterflow, and with LLC you choke it.
Good thing being that the vcore is more "stable" but higher in idle.