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P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler

WarYur

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Re: P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler
« Reply #30 on: April 22, 2011, 07:45:36 am »
I am afraid that is often the way these retailers are. They will sell you anything they can often, that is why it is worth hanging onto a good supplier if you find one.

Forget getting a copper lined one as there are plenty of full copper radiators for that sort of price or a little more. I am not sure of the availability in  the US but to give you an idea check this out :

http://www.candccentral.co.uk/radiators-and-grills/

Dark Mantis, did you happen to get a note back from Mick as yet?  I wrote to Koolance last night and got an answer back today that was kindof confusing.  LOL, of course that is an easy thing to do to me...  Anyway, you know for some reason i thought that i posted what he said on here but guess not.  Hope it's ok to share what he said but this is it;

Hello,

If we sell the Exos-2.5, likely HX-CU1020VS or V would be used.

Aluminum is fine to use in a rad as long as there is no un-plated copper in the loop and a decent coolant is used. Many customers use regular di-water with or without simple additives and have multiple copper blocks that don't use nickel plating. Aluminum shouldn't be used in that situation. All of our copper is nickel or gold plated.

Thank you for your inquiry,
Info

Koolance, Inc.
www.koolance.com

IF?  Well they do sell it because that is where I got it from and it sure doesn't have anything but an aluminum rad in it.  It says so right under the product on their site. 
So then later today I called Koolance and got another guy and he said that he thought that whoever answered my email (there was no actual name) thought I was talking about a future product of theirs. 
Ya right, I think that the guy just was trying to pull the wool over my eyes or something but who knows.  I had worded my email message so that he should have known that I was talking about an Exos 2.5 that i owned and told them I wanted to replace the aluminum rad if possible with a copper one.
Well the guy on the phone told me it wasn't possible for some reason but then you told me to just go ahead and get a real copper rad anyway.  I asked them though because I found out that their copper rads aren't lined they are copper with brass fins he told me.  You know I must have written all this last night and then went to bed this morning and forgot to post it.  Anyway the only things that will be in the loop I will have is the two GTX 480's that run REALLY hot especially with them being overclocked.
I really don't want to just toss a unit that was just under $400 a bit less than a year ago though and the water blocks are the Koolance ones that are "high density copper and nickel plating".
 So with that in mind do you think it should be ok to use the Aluminum rad? Then my only problem would be trying to find the Mayhems UV Blue Dye unless you think that the Primochill UV Blue tubing is dark enough.  I have never used that brand at all so I don't know.
I was looking at the Primochill Dye that was black and then UV Blue and since there will only be the 2 vid cards in the loop and I am going to put quick disconnects before and after them so that I can readily take them out any time I choose to clean them out it wouldn't matter if I had some of that dye getting caught anywhere because I could pop them out and clean them out as well as the pump, rad and res every couple of months.
I do understand what you have told me and that does seem to be the general consensus over the internet but there is also a lot of different mindsets on the subject too.  You have a lot of experience though but I already am having to buy a bunch of parts like all of the quick disconnects and was also going to get a cool front bay slot temp, fan speed, and card reader all in one that is total overkill but I really liked the look of it.  Sorry for such a long post...

 

Dark Mantis

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Re: P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler
« Reply #31 on: April 22, 2011, 09:31:41 am »
Hi

I think there was some misunderstanding all round to be honest.

The water blocks on your GPU coolers and probably CPU are likely to be copper. They might possibly be plated with gold or more likely nickel but a lot are just untreated metal.CU or copper.
If you are planning to keep them as they are then you wouldn't be able to use anything aluminium in the loop with safety. This was the standpoint I was coming from. I was suggesting replacing the radiator and pump for "real ones" and getting rid of these Koolance "blingy" toys.

If you want to keep the Koolance unit then you will need to replace the cooling blocks and any other items that you are using in the loop with either aluminium or plated versions.

Basically all items in a loop need to be the same metal and it is more common to find copper ones than anything else. You will have to decide which way you are going to go. Don't forget you could sell your Koolance unit on Ebay quite easilly.

I had exactly the same problem with a Zalman Reserator unit. Beautifully designed etc but was made predominantly of aluminium and so I couldn't use it with my copper blocks.
Gigabyte X58A-UD7
i7 920
Dominators 1600 x6 12GB
6970 2GB
HX850
256GB SSD, Sam 1TB, WDB320GB
Blu-Ray
HAF 932

Gigabyte Z68X-UD5-B3
i7 3770K
Vengeance 1600 16GB
6950 2GB
HCP1200W
Revo Drive x2, 1.5TB WDB RAID0
16x DLRW
StrikeX S7
Full water cooling
3 x 27" Iiy

WarYur

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Re: P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler
« Reply #32 on: April 22, 2011, 10:56:20 am »

Hi

I think there was some misunderstanding all round to be honest.

The water blocks on your GPU coolers and probably CPU are likely to be copper. They might possibly be plated with gold or more likely nickel but a lot are just untreated metal.CU or copper.
If you are planning to keep them as they are then you wouldn't be able to use anything aluminium in the loop with safety. This was the standpoint I was coming from. I was suggesting replacing the radiator and pump for "real ones" and getting rid of these Koolance "blingy" toys.

If you want to keep the Koolance unit then you will need to replace the cooling blocks and any other items that you are using in the loop with either aluminium or plated versions.

Basically all items in a loop need to be the same metal and it is more common to find copper ones than anything else. You will have to decide which way you are going to go. Don't forget you could sell your Koolance unit on Ebay quite easilly.

I had exactly the same problem with a Zalman Reserator unit. Beautifully designed etc but was made predominantly of aluminium and so I couldn't use it with my copper blocks.

LOL, When you're right, you're right!   Although as I said the Koolance vid water blocks are nickel plated copper.  I am still having a heck of a time trying to find what I like in the way of fans.  I am shopping on frozencpu.com and there are just too many choices.  I kindof want a UV reactive blue possibly with LED's as well for at least one of the Corsair H-70 fans (inside the case). What do you think of this fan;

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12120/fan-789/Silverstone_Air_Penetrator_AP121-BL_120_x_120_x_25mm_Fan_-_Blue_LED_SST-AP121-BL.html?tl=c331s518b7&id=FBKYVQJD&mv_pc=6878

Not a really high cfm value but the way the fan blows air is interesting.  I watched the little video there and that fan is not only quiet but it blows the air straight forward instead of like many other fans that blow the air off to the sides.
I also want 3 x 140mm fans for inside of the Corsair 800D with a bit of UV Blue going on if possible.  

 I sure would have gone that Gentle Typhoon route though but they are sold out ATM.  All the stuff about the fans though is just me being a goofball.  I have been looking through all of the cfm headings to see what is available.  They didn't have anything besides Xigmatech CPU fans BTW and the Phobya fans you mentioned have red blades on both the 120mm and the 140mm.   I can't win...  Ok, you might just have given me an idea with selling the Koolance unit.  

What combination of pump, rad, res do you suggest I use?  At first I thought of that kit that soarwitheagles mentioned on the first page of this thread but that was primarily for the CPU I think.  At least then I could install the rad inside of the 800D under the top of it where there are three fan holes up there and the res could either go on the bottom or perhaps be one of those cylindrical one.  ANY suggestions would be so very much appreciated.  LOL, Anyone want to buy a Koolance Exos 2.5 version 1.1?  ;D  Just kidding as I know you're probably not supposed to actually try and sell stuff on here.

I have actually wanted to break loose from the Koolance kit anyway so i guess this is my chance.  I am sorry that I keep bugging you but it's time  I learned and the fellow who was telling me what to get for water cooling as I mentioned earlier was the one who got me going on Koolance and then he told me a lot of other stuff that proved to be wrong later on too.  Guess I just need to keep reading though.

SO, also did Mick ever write you back?

 
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 10:59:57 am by Dark Mantis »

Dark Mantis

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Re: P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler
« Reply #33 on: April 22, 2011, 11:13:29 am »
No I haven't heard from Mick yet, maybe hes having some time off for Easter.

Feel free to ask away. Any questions you have I will do my best to answer.

The fans you linked to are very nice and I have watched the video before. Personally I don't feel in most situations it would make any difference whatsoever. The only time it would benefit is if you had an intake fan that you wanted to specifically direct the airflow onto a certain component. For 140mm fans I just reviewed the Xigmatek XLF series with white LEDs that I was very impressed with.

AS for the rest of the kit well I would go for a Alphcool VPP655 pump which is well liked in the community for it's power and longevity as well as being controllable. Radiator to suit your case or even two if they fit better. You will also need a reservoir ideally and again any to suit the look and space available.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2011, 11:16:52 am by Dark Mantis »
Gigabyte X58A-UD7
i7 920
Dominators 1600 x6 12GB
6970 2GB
HX850
256GB SSD, Sam 1TB, WDB320GB
Blu-Ray
HAF 932

Gigabyte Z68X-UD5-B3
i7 3770K
Vengeance 1600 16GB
6950 2GB
HCP1200W
Revo Drive x2, 1.5TB WDB RAID0
16x DLRW
StrikeX S7
Full water cooling
3 x 27" Iiy

WarYur

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Re: P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler
« Reply #34 on: April 23, 2011, 09:25:02 am »
No I haven't heard from Mick yet, maybe hes having some time off for Easter.

Feel free to ask away. Any questions you have I will do my best to answer.

The fans you linked to are very nice and I have watched the video before. Personally I don't feel in most situations it would make any difference whatsoever. The only time it would benefit is if you had an intake fan that you wanted to specifically direct the airflow onto a certain component. For 140mm fans I just reviewed the Xigmatek XLF series with white LEDs that I was very impressed with.

AS for the rest of the kit well I would go for a Alphcool VPP655 pump which is well liked in the community for it's power and longevity as well as being controllable. Radiator to suit your case or even two if they fit better. You will also need a reservoir ideally and again any to suit the look and space available.

Thanks yet again.  Perhaps I just need to give you one blanket thank you for the duration...   ;D  You know the entire time I have been using the Koolance "stuff" I had not come across one article/forum/etc that spoke of what a person really should be using for their w/c setup and now I have been reading a ton of stuff to include a little blurb on Skinnee Labs.  To make a long story short they have been using aluminum for a long time and the w/c community has been at any of the companies that are still doing so to change so it seems that Koolance is just now beginning to change their aluminum rad and pumps to what they should have been in the first place.   In their defense they do make a great CPU block and the latest was tested on Skinnee labs site as well and came out on top of their former CPU 360 (which I do have but it doesn't work with socket 1155), and an Enzotech Stealth which is not a huge comparison but he was also comparing a few TIMS. As far as the TIMS go out of AT Silver Grease, Artic Cooling MX2, Indigo Xtreme, and the junk that Koolance puts in their kits, he liked the MX2 for overall but the Indigo Xtreme had the most consistent coverage.  He said that the CPU 370 made the best contact and that the TIMS used made less of a difference with the block making a more contact which makes sense I guess.  I found some of his stuff hard to follow though probably because I am now relearning w/c.  Or should I just say learning now period...  Although I now have a fair idea of what I am going to get if you should have any pearls of wisdom along the way here feel free to throw them on out.  Now exactly what I will end up with and just how and where I will put everything is another story.  BTW, Happy Easter!

WarYur

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Re: P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler
« Reply #35 on: April 23, 2011, 09:39:32 am »
This is REALLY off the topic but you said that you are using 2 x WD Blacks in RAID 0 in your living review for the Gigabyte P67A-UD5.  Are those older drives then?  I forgot to contact newegg regarding trading them for perhaps the Samsung Spinpoint for a RAID 0 array  which will probably be on one side of the LSI controller card I have sitting around here to get the most out of them and I think I have already said that the other two connections on the controller will have another brands 100GB SSD's on them.  I don't suppose running the Blacks in RAID 0 on the controller would just happen to bypass that TLER would it.  Probably not, I should be so lucky.

Dark Mantis

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Re: P67A-UD7-B3 and Corsair H70 CPU water cooler
« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2011, 09:47:28 am »
No they are the updated new drives that I bought to RAID and then had problems with the Marvell chip and so started digging to find the reasons.

TLER (Time Limited Error Recovery) is basically just a safety net. It works by checking to see if the drive(RAID) has initialised and if not setting a delay until it does. If you are lucky and everything works fine then TLER doesn't really do anything. Obviously the faster the system and interface the more likely you are to need TLER. I just used my WDBlacks as I had them sat there and so thought I would give them a try on the SandyBridge. So far they have worked fine but I wouldn't want to use them in a mission critical machine.
Gigabyte X58A-UD7
i7 920
Dominators 1600 x6 12GB
6970 2GB
HX850
256GB SSD, Sam 1TB, WDB320GB
Blu-Ray
HAF 932

Gigabyte Z68X-UD5-B3
i7 3770K
Vengeance 1600 16GB
6950 2GB
HCP1200W
Revo Drive x2, 1.5TB WDB RAID0
16x DLRW
StrikeX S7
Full water cooling
3 x 27" Iiy