GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3: New Build. Powers up for a couple seconds, shuts down (no POST)

[mcqfesijiba]

New build with this motherboard is to be used primarily as HTPC / living room entertainment machine. Core i3 processor (2nd generation). 2x 2GB G-Skill Ripjaws X. Every component was purchased new. This was my first total build, but I have at one time or another swapped every part out in and out of desktops to upgrade.

When I power it on, the power LED lights up and the fans start. Then 2 seconds later, everything stops and power LED goes out for about 4 or 5 seconds. And it loops like this until I cut the power.

Everything is plugged in correctly. I have tried another PSU to rule that out. Have tried rearranging and removing RAM. Have tried booting with only essential components connected. I have even removed the battery for a few minutes to have the CMOS reset. I also hooked up to a spare case to make sure the case wasn't somehow causing any problems or shorts. Same result no matter what I've tried.

The fact that it does not even beep/POST leads me to believe the motherboard is likely the culprit somehow.

Any ideas? Or is it RMA time?

[Dark Mantis]

Hi

I think you may be a little premature for an RMA just yet! You have done a fair amount of faultfinding but not all of it to our standards to be honest.

Firstly perhaps you would list all the parts in your build ?

The next thing to try is to clear the CMOS. Please follow these instructions exactly.

Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.

Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least one hour before replacing it.
 
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
 
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Optimised BIOS Defaults.

Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self like disabling the floppy drive, disabling the full screen logo and making the HDD the primary boot device and then press F10 to save and exit.

[mcqfesijiba]

Thank you. I will try that later after work and gather a specific list of all my components. I am in no hurry to RMA. I would like to avoid that if at all possible.

[mcqfesijiba]

Same result after trying what you suggested. It doesn't stay on long enough to go to the BIOS nor do I hear a beep or POST.

My configuration:

Motherboard
Gigabyte Intel Z68 Micro ATX LGA 1155 Motherboard (GA-Z68MA-D2H-B3)

CPU
Intel Core i3-2100 Processor 3.1GHz 3 MB Cache Socket LGA1155 Intel Core i3-2100 Processor 3.1GHz 3 MB Cache Socket LGA1155

Case
SilverStone Aluminum/Steel Micro ATX HTPC Computer Case GD05B (Black)

PSU
Antec EarthWatts Green EA-380D Green 380W Continuous power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power ...

RAM
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBXL

HDD
Western Digital 1 TB Caviar Green SATA II 64 MB Cache Bulk/OEM Desktop Hard Drive WD10EARS

OS (haven't got this far yet)
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM

If I forgot to mention something important, let me know.

[Dark Mantis]

Well thanks for the extra information. From that I can see that you have two problems. The first is that the power supply is m uch too small and need to be 550W at least.  The make is good but the size just isn't enough. Try and get a good make like, Seasonic, Enermax, Gigabyte, Corsair or Antec with a single 12v rail if possible.

Secondly you have a "green" hard drive. These are fine for data storage as a backup but no good for a boot drive. They are too slow to initialise and get left behind when booting.

Have you got all the power leads connected ? There is the 24 pin and the 8 pin to the motherboard.  I take it that you are using the onboard graphics ?

Have you got a buzzer or a speaker fitted ?

[mcqfesijiba]

I've borrowed a similar configuration many others have used for an htpc. I suppose its possible the 380W PSU ultimately will not be enough, but supposedly this configuration will not be too power hungry. One of the spares I tried with was a never used 420W. And I have considered another hdd just for the OS, possibly even a 64GB SSD, but I have disconnected the hdd altogether for now just trying to get into the BIOS. Yes, all power leads are connected, including the 24pin and 8pin are connected. Actually only half of the 8pin is connected since this motherboard only takes the 4pin. All jumpers are connected as indicated by the manual for the MB. I have hooked up speakers but still didn't hear any beeps or other noises unfortunately.

I have the bare minimum required parts connected for now (MB, CPU + onboard gfx + RAM) and I figure that should be enough to at least make its way into the BIOS or POST right?

[Dark Mantis]

You won't be able to hear any POST beep codes through your speakers as that is not the way they are emitted. You need a motherboard buzzer or speaker which connects to the F_Panel connectors on the bottom right hand corner of the motherboard. It will show you exactly where to connect it in the manual. They are obtainable from most computer shops for about a pound.

I would assume that with the cut back system the small PSU would be sufficient to boot at least. When you have installed the buzzer post back with whatever beep code it makes.

[mcqfesijiba]

I had a spare motherboard speaker lying around. Actually, it was in my spare case. I took it off of that case and plugged it into the motherboard in the fpanel on my latest attempt. Still no POST.

[Dark Mantis]

Is it actually a speaker or a solid state buzzer ?

The next thing is to remove the motherboard from the case and test it on the workbench.

Make sure that you observe anti-static precautions.

Lay some cardboard or use the motherboard box that is non-conductive on the worktop and remove the motherboard/CPU/heatsink/fan/buzzer/one stick of memory and PSU from the case and put it on the cardboard. Add the keyboard and try and boot. The system should try and then fail emitting a series of beeps. Please post what sounds it makes.

[mcqfesijiba]

Thanks for the help so far. I did the workbench test just now. Same result. I don't think it even stays powered up long enough to POST. I also tested my motherboard buzzer with a known working machine and it does work (that way I know I'm not working with a broken buzzer).

And to reiterate, I have tried a few different PSUs to rule that out with my 380W being the lowest power of them. Same result no matter what PSU I use.

[Dark Mantis]

You still haven't answewred my question regarding whether it is a buzzer or a speaker that you have. The reason for my enquiry is that solid state buzzers are not like the old speakers and are polarity concious meaning they will only work when fitted the correct way round. So that needs checking even though we know that the item actually works.

If it still wont POST at this stage something basic is at fault. I would suggest trying without the memory first and see what beep codes that gives you.

[mcqfesijiba]

My apologies. I didn't read that part carefully the first time. I didn't know the difference until looking it up just now. It appears to be a motherboard speaker. Looks exactly like this:


Without memory, the result is the same. Doesn't make it to POST.

[Dark Mantis]

Thanks that makes a difference. Your sounder is a solid state buzzer and as such must be fitted the right way around. If you look closely you will find there is a + and a - often on the very top (face) of the speaker unit. Make sure that matches up with the motherboard's polarity. It is marked on the board but also on the diagram in the manual. Sort this out first befopre doing anything else.

Moving on from there it would seem not to be a memory problem then, so re-install the single memory module in the DDR3_1 slot.

Next thing is to clear the CMOS overnight. But as it is still early we can check  something else first. Can you try a different PSU of at least 500W. Make sure that the 24 pin and the 8 pin connections to the motherboard. Let me know how you get on.

When it comes to clearing the CMOS later tonight just do exactly as before but leave the battery out all night. In case you need to go over the details again:

Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.

Once done remove the motherboard battery for the whole night before replacing it.
 
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
 
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Optimised BIOS Defaults.

Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self like disabling the floppy drive, disabling the full screen logo and making the HDD the primary boot device and then press F10 to save and exit.

[mcqfesijiba]

I had the battery pulled for over 16 hours. This time, I went straight to using my 500W spare PSU after replacing the battery. Same result. No POST, nor can I yet reach BIOS. I tried plugging the buzzer in both ways just in case I misinterpreted the labeling. Man, I'd be ecstatic if I could just reach BIOS or hear a beep with this machine right about now.

[Dark Mantis]

It's not looking good but there are a couple of things to try before we admit defeat. Firstly try this. It might not work the first time because the timing is important and it's not always easey to ge tit right straight away.

You can kick in the backup BIOS by shutting down the PSU from the wall, then hold down your case power button in and then turn on the power supply button, a few seconds later the board will start, shut off the power supply then.   Then you can turn on the power supply again and power up the board normally and DualBIOS will kick in.