890GPA-UD3H CPU Temps and Cold Boot Problems

[Xcalibur007]

Hello Everyone,

I have the Gigabyte 890gpa-ud3h rev 3.1 motherboard with F4 bios, Phenom II X6 1090T, Kingston HyperX 1600MHz dual channel 8GB (2 x 4GB sticks), XFX Radeon HD 5670, OCZ ModXstream 600W power supply and Corsair A70 heatsink.  I am running Windows 7 Pro 64 bit.  I set everything in the bios to optimized default.  Everything is a stock speed, except for the ram, it runs at 1333MHz.

1) I have some concern about the cpu temps of my pc.  I installed several programs that monitor cpu temps and they are giving me different temps for cpu core temps.  In the bios, cpu temps are about 32-34C (not sure if thats idle or load) and system temp at about 37-38C.  Core temps and Hwmonitor both gives me the same cpu core temps at about 24-26C at idle.  However, AMD Overdrive gives cpu core temps at about 36-37C at idle.  At full load using Prime95, all three seems to go up at the same rate, goes up about 18-20C.  Which cpu temps should I trust?

2) My other problem is cold booting.  When I do a cold boot (its been off for some time), there is no post and no beeps either, but fans are running and it looks like that the hard drive and optical drive are working and have power.  I have to do a hard shutdown by holding power button down and turn it on again.  After that everything works fine, no random crashes, BSOD, and passes cpu stability tests (Prime95 and AMD Overdrive), memtest86+, windows memory diagnostics and furmark.  I'm thinking I might have a defective power supply because the cold boot problem seems to go  away if I turn off and on my power supply every time before I do a cold boot, which can be annoying.  Is my power supply defective or is there something else wrong?

[Grozdan]

Hi

As for your temperatures you have nothing to worry about because, as for GBT, bios always shows different temperatures than other programs. Your temperatures are just fine no matter what program you use.
You should also consider that cpu and cpu core temperatures are not the same as well. As for me, I would trust Core temp and/or HW Monitor because they are reading temperatures directly from cpu temperature sensor and some programs, such as Easy Tune (which comes with motherboard) takes readings from ITE sensor on motherboard. Bios also uses this sensor and so it seems AMD overdrive (as the temperatures are the same as those in bios).

As for your second problem, I think as well that the problem could be in your PSU. Try changing it and see what happens. That way you'll know for sure if the problem is with your PSU...

[Dark Mantis]

I would agree with you that your PSU is the most likely culprit for your cold boot problems, however it could also be one of several other things. I still think that the power supply is the most likely suspect though so I would suggest swapping it out if you have a friend or something that can help you out.

[Xcalibur007]

Sorry if the next few questions sounds dumb, I'm new to this motherboard.  My other motherboard before this one, which died, never gave me different cpu temps.  Since the temps from ITE sensor on the motherboard is higher than the cpu core temps, does this mean that its hot in my case?  Will my cpu be damaged if the temps from the ITE sensor goes over 62C (max temps for phenom x6 cpus)?  Also is the cpu fan header on this motherboard capable of running 120mm fan at 2000rpm?  My cpu fans never seems to go above 1700rpm at full load and around 1200-1300rpm at idle.  Its a 3 pin fan, not a pwm, not sure how the motherboard is controlling it.  Plugging my cpu fans into a system fan header, fan speed is 2000rpm all the time.

As for my other problem, I suspected the ps as the problem and been planning of getting a new one anyways.  I have a radeon hd 6870 coming next week, will corsair tx750 v2 be enough power for 6870 crossfires and overclocking the cpu?

[Dark Mantis]

Hi

Whilst I would think the Corsair TX750 would be enough to run your crossfire setup and overclocking the CPU it isn't leaving a lot of headroom. I would be inclined to go for something a little larger like the 850 and if I were you I would be looking at the HX range as they are modular and so only use the cables yoiu require. It shouldn't cost you too much more in total and will give you several benefits.

Personally I would advise the use of a dedicated fan controller and they can be purchased for a small amount of money somewhere in the region of £12 upwards. This will give you complete control of the fans and you won't have to worry about burning out the motherboard headers by using too much current.

[Xcalibur007]

I wasn't concerned about burning out my cpu fan header.  I wanted to know why it wasn't running at full speed, which I just figured out.  In the BIOS there is a smart fan option, which was enable.  If I disable it my fans run at the full speed.

Thanks for your help.

[Dark Mantis]

You will find that if you are using SYSFAN_2 that it only runs at half the speed of the others. This is by design so don't look for the cause.

[Grozdan]

...and as for your question about CPU temperature, you shouldn't be worried as long as you don't cross 75°C because that's the threshold for X6 AMD PIIs. (at least, this is from what I heard). AMD says that 62°C is max. but I believe that CPUs with E0 stepping have 75°C threshold. You should check that out to just to be sure...

[godjunior]

Will keep checking on your problem because I have the EXACT SAME motherboard as yours with the same PROBLEM(2) that you have.   First time it happened I changed the PSU and fixed it for 6 months,  thens swapped ANOTHER PSU and fixed it again until it did it once more.   Can't be popping PSU's every 6 months or so.   Wanted to change it again but returned the NEW PSU on warranty since it didn't fix the problem regardless if I play with the swith on the PSU or NOT.   

Tried reseating every component.   Tried taking out components one by one and restarting without any results.   Tried starting with strict minimum but nothing positive.

Finally played with PSU SWITCH and came back again.   Waiting for new PSU AGAIN before RMA'ing the Motherboard.

[Dark Mantis]

Try doing an extended clear of the CMOS and then load Optimised BIOS Default settings. Follow these instructions exactly:

Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.

Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least one hour before replacing it.
 
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
 
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Optimised BIOS Defaults.

Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self like disabling the floppy drive, disabling the full screen logo and making the HDD the primary boot device and then press F10 to save and exit.

Also try disabling all of the power saving and sleep modes in the BIOS. I don't know if it will work but they have been playing up somewhat recently and sometimes with funny symptoms.

This is similar to what you would be doing when you change the PSU over which could be the reason for it working for a while afterwards.