Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with AMD processors => Topic started by: Sqawker on November 12, 2010, 07:07:13 pm
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This will be my first build and I want to ‘go’ with components that are relatively proven (if possible). I am retired and would like a computer that I have learned enough to maintain and update. My main use for this computer would be photoshop, video editing, flash , web, and database development – as a hobby.
I have recently purchased a Phenom II X6 1090T and both 64bit and 32bit version(s) of Windows 7 Ultimate. Intend to run the 64bit if possible,
I have purchased a used ThermalTake Armor case with fans included (no power supply).
I will buy the motherboard first: next the RAM, next the power supply, next the hard drive, next the graphics card ( HD 5770 ), somewhere in there the DVD/CD and FDD.
MOTHERBOARD
After reading Absic’s conversation with someone in your forum, I believe that I will go with the GA-890XA-UD3 because Absic had some experience with a similar board and the XA-UD3 was very close to the GA-890gpa-U3HD that I had tentatively selected.
MEMORY
In terms of memory, I will run at 1333 Mhz – I have no intention to overclock or whatever. I just want to build a computer that I can learn to maintain and update by myself.
Ultimately, I would like to install 4 sticks of 4GB each RAM. However I can only afford two sticks now (2X4GB) .
Q1.. So is it possible to have only 8Gb in two sticks – then add two more 4GB sticks later?
Q2. For my MoBo and CPU could you give me an exact memory stick that would work in my situation?
POWER SUPPLY
Q3.. I understand that one could use as much power as one can get. I understand 700+ watts is good. How do you know what is a good quality pwr supply? Could you recommend a power supply that is reasonably good quality and over 700 Watts?
SOFTWARE
Q4.. If I run Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit can I typically run 32bit software on a 64bit operating system (assuming that the software in question would normally run under Windows 7 32bit)?
DVD
Q5.. What would you recommend as a DVD/CD reader/writer (I have been writing –R format on DVD and CD in the past)?
I understand that advice you give me is not guaranteed to work. But since I know little or nothing about the nuances of hardware (particularly memory specification babble), your advice puts me miles ahead.
Thanks in advance for any help, Sqawker.
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Q1.. So is it possible to have only 8Gb in two sticks – then add two more 4GB sticks later?
Yes you can run only two sticks and later add 2 more sticks. It would be best to end up with all four sticks being the same brand and part number. Doing so is hit or miss because you may or may not be able to find the exact same memory later when you decide to add eight more gigs. You may need to drop the speed from 1333 to 1066 or loosen timings etc. to get 4 modules stable.
Q2. For my MoBo and CPU could you give me an exact memory stick that would work in my situation?
Gigabyte tests very few memory brands and types so their QVL list for ram is not very useful. I normally use Corsair or Crucial memory in all my builds. Both have a memory configurator on their site. Corsair here http://www.corsair.com/configurator/product_results.aspx?id=1536858#other_modules
Crucial here http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=GA-890XA-UD3
Since you are not going to over clock normal 1333 memory should be fine. Write down the part numbers for all the 1333 8 gig kits from both manufactures and then see which ones you can find for purchase from the supplier you want to use.
Q3.. I understand that one could use as much power as one can get. I understand 700+ watts is good. How do you know what is a good quality pwr supply? Could you recommend a power supply that is reasonably good quality and over 700 Watts?
Power supplies are the most important part of a PC build. I use Corsair or Seasonic supplies when possible. Most Corsair supplies are made by Seasonic. Looking at your build I would think a quality 550 watt supply would be all you would need. To be sure enter in all your hardware here and see what you need for sure. http://www.extreme.outervision.com/psucalculator.jsp
Q4.. If I run Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit can I typically run 32bit software on a 64bit operating system (assuming that the software in question would normally run under Windows 7 32bit)?
32 bit OS's only supports 4 gigs of ram so you will need to install 64 bit windows 7. Most if not all 32 bit programs work fine in Windows 7 64 bit. Note any 32 bit programs used will not be able to use more than 2 gigs of memory. This is not a limitation of Windows 7 is a limitation caused by 32 bit programs. To use the full potential or your new PC you may need newer versions of the software you use. AKA photoshop, video editing software etc. Do some research on the versions of the programs you are going to use. Do they support Windows 7? 64 bit etc.
Q5.. What would you recommend as a DVD/CD reader/writer (I have been writing –R format on DVD and CD in the past)?
If you burn lots of dual layer DVD's a Sony Optiarc drive that uses a NEC chipset would be a good choice or any drive that uses a NEC chipset. If you do not burn many dual layer DVD's Lite-On drives that use the Mediatek chipset are a good choice. You may want to get two drives, one using the NEC chipset and one using the Mediatek chipset and have the best of both worlds. Asus makes a Lite-On clone that uses the Mediatek chipset and they are very reasonably priced. I just love all 5 of mine. New egg has them in stock. http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007589+50001315&QksAutoSuggestion=&ShowDeactivatedMark=False&Configurator=&IsNodeId=1&Subcategory=5&description=&Ntk=&CFG=&SpeTabStoreType=&srchInDesc=
I have DRW-24B3LT's and DRW-24B1ST's. Keep in mind not all Sony Optiarc drives use the NEC chipset and not all Lite-On drives use the Mediatek chipset. Most Sony Optiarc drives are actually made by Lite-On and may or may not use the NEC chipset.
edit, updated burner info
Bill
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Q1 - I'm not saying you can't go for 4GB sticks but with how fast computers change there's no point, really. Unless you have a lot of spare money and want top of the top performance... for about a year. Being you I'd go for 4x2GB as that's really the most reasonable value ( 8GB ).
Q3 - I'm just guessing but I have the feeling that you'd like to use this PC for a few years? If yes, then it'd be prudent to have a little more power than is needed as the PSU will degrade over time. Still, like Wonderwrench said, 700W+ isn't really necessary in your case. To really be on the safe side I'd go with a 600W quality PSU ( assuming you'll keep it for at least 2-3 years ).
Q4 - if the software would run without problems on Windows 7 32bit then it should be perfectly fine with the 64bit version, too. Generally, Windows 7 should work with all software that was made for Windows XP or Vista. Not sure about stuff meant for even older systems.
What else to add. I'd buy 2 hard drives, maybe one external, to have one as back-up. Nothing hurts as much as loss of important data. I'd look for something reasonably fast, too ( considering that your PC will be quite a beast ).
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Q1 - I'm not saying you can't go for 4GB sticks but with how fast computers change there's no point, really. Unless you have a lot of spare money and want top of the top performance... for about a year. Being you I'd go for 4x2GB as that's really the most reasonable value ( 8GB ).
Q3 - I'm just guessing but I have the feeling that you'd like to use this PC for a few years? If yes, then it'd be prudent to have a little more power than is needed as the PSU will degrade over time. Still, like Wonderwrench said, 700W+ isn't really necessary in your case. To really be on the safe side I'd go with a 600W quality PSU ( assuming you'll keep it for at least 2-3 years ).
Q4 - if the software would run without problems on Windows 7 32bit then it should be perfectly fine with the 64bit version, too. Generally, Windows 7 should work with all software that was made for Windows XP or Vista. Not sure about stuff meant for even older systems.
What else to add. I'd buy 2 hard drives, maybe one external, to have one as back-up. Nothing hurts as much as loss of important data. I'd look for something reasonably fast, too ( considering that your PC will be quite a beast ).
The price on 4 gig modules has come way down. Many kits with 2x4 gig modules can be had for under $150.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007611%20600006050%20600006069&IsNodeId=1&bop=And&ShowDeactivatedMark=False&Order=PRICE&PageSize=20
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Non modular supplies
Corsair 650 watt PSU for $70 after rebate with free shipping. It does not have modular cabling though.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139005
Seasonic 620 watt for under $85 shipped
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151096
Modular supplies
Corsair 650 watt for $116 shipped after rebate.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139012
Seasonic 620 watt for $106 shipped.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151095
Bill
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WOW!! Thanks for the help. It was encyclopedic. Wonderwrench, you are fantastic. You nailed the RAM for me and the PSU. I now can specificly list the parts that I need along with their price. Somewhere I read that Newegg was very good with keeping customers happy so I will probably go with them rather than just going with the lowest price (as long as the difference is not much).
Looks like thw ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24x DVD Burner is a winner and a great price. Thanks for info. You have 5 of these, you need to have stock in their company!
Bytheway_r, you had some good info. Yes, I would like to keep it for years to come, upgrading it as it becomes necessary. Are you saying ("...I'm not saying you can't go for 4GB sticks but with how fast computers change there's no point, really.") that if,for example, I see that If I change the MoBo then I probably would have to change the RAM. Is it also likely that if I only change the CPU, I might have to change the RAM?
This is a good point and I need to think about it for awhile. However, why would buying 4 X 2GB sticks be preferable to buying 2 x 4GB sticks? If I buy 4 x 2GB sticks and decide to go to 16GB then I waste the 4 x 2GB sticks. Is there a reason to use 4 x 2GB over 2 x 4GB? Is it a value thing - that you mention?
In sum...............
I will go with the "CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-650HX 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply". With a name that long, you can't miss somthing . (LOL) This seems like a quality component.
Will be thinking about 8GB vrs future 16GB but thanks to both of youl I know whick sticks to buy.
Decided on the GA-890XA-UD3 MoBo , the HD 5770 graphics card and the ASUS DVD writer.
Much appreciation. It will be a month or two before I get these items. My wife is about to ask me for 'what I want for Christmas', then I will see what is left to fanagle (very important word for married man). You see, my wife still works and I have been retired since 2003.
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As far as the ram goes if getting four 2 gig sticks does not save you much money over two 4 gig sticks get two 4 gig sticks. In the past two 4 gig sticks cost more than twice as much as four 2 gig sticks so it made more sense to save some money and hope you did not want to add more ram later.
I have always liked Lite-On CD/DVD burners (that use the Mediatek chipset) because they can read disks other drives can't, damaged/scratched/poor quality etc. They also read faster than most and do not have riplock. Write quality has been good on every one I ever owned as long as you use quality media. I also like the ability to do disk quality scanning using CD-DVD Speed or similar programs. See screen shot below. The only things Mediatek based drives do not excel at is burning dual layer DVD's and CDR's. They do a decent job but not as good as NEC chipset based drives. The reason I have so many Asus burners is is because finding out which drives use the Mediatek chipset is not an easy task. Asus DVD burners are clones of the last gen Lite-On drives and use the Mediatek chipset. I would guess sooner or later these drives will be gone so I would get one while their still available.
Bill
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Newegg has the Sony Optiarc AD-7260S-0B drives on sale for $15.99 with free shipping. This drive uses the NEC chipset so it is a great dual layer DVD burner and CDR burner. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827118039
No sales on Mediatek based drives at this time as far as I can see. The Asus DRW-24B1ST and DRW-24B3LT drives are $19.99 plus $4.99 shipping.
Not a bad deal as they are great drives. Media scanning out of box, no rip lock, best readers bar none, great single layer DVD burning etc.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007589+50001315&QksAutoSuggestion=&ShowDeactivatedMark=False&Configurator=&IsNodeId=1&Subcategory=5&description=&Ntk=&CFG=&SpeTabStoreType=&srchInDesc=
Bill
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WOW!! Thanks for the help. It was encyclopedic. Wonderwrench, you are fantastic. You nailed the RAM for me and the PSU. I now can specificly list the parts that I need along with their price. Somewhere I read that Newegg was very good with keeping customers happy so I will probably go with them rather than just going with the lowest price (as long as the difference is not much).
Looks like thw ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24x DVD Burner is a winner and a great price. Thanks for info. You have 5 of these, you need to have stock in their company!
Bytheway_r, you had some good info. Yes, I would like to keep it for years to come, upgrading it as it becomes necessary. Are you saying ("...I'm not saying you can't go for 4GB sticks but with how fast computers change there's no point, really.") that if,for example, I see that If I change the MoBo then I probably would have to change the RAM. Is it also likely that if I only change the CPU, I might have to change the RAM?
This is a good point and I need to think about it for awhile. However, why would buying 4 X 2GB sticks be preferable to buying 2 x 4GB sticks? If I buy 4 x 2GB sticks and decide to go to 16GB then I waste the 4 x 2GB sticks. Is there a reason to use 4 x 2GB over 2 x 4GB? Is it a value thing - that you mention?
In sum...............
I will go with the "CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-650HX 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply". With a name that long, you can't miss somthing . (LOL) This seems like a quality component.
Will be thinking about 8GB vrs future 16GB but thanks to both of youl I know whick sticks to buy.
Decided on the GA-890XA-UD3 MoBo , the HD 5770 graphics card and the ASUS DVD writer.
Much appreciation. It will be a month or two before I get these items. My wife is about to ask me for 'what I want for Christmas', then I will see what is left to fanagle (very important word for married man). You see, my wife still works and I have been retired since 2003.
I like your choice of PSU, it is modular and a decent rating. Good mother board, almost bought one myself.
The only change I might make would be the graphics. Is there a large price difference between the 5770 and 6870? If not then the 6870 would be a better choice.
Edit: Should have put the 6850 instead, not 6870.
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Although I would agree with you about the graphics card and would go for the new 6850 don't forget that they have changed the numbering sequence on the new series and the 6850 equates to the 5830 in reality. The 6870 would be the natural progression of the 5850. As you say though for the small extra bit of hard earned I would definitely buy the 6850.
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Hi Sqawker,,,Good choice of mobo. These guys here will help you through the build if your stuck. I have built two now with the help of ABSIC and DM.
best of luck
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CanUK, Mantis,
I looked at the HD 6850 (approx $260) and I would like to have it. Unfortunately I have to keep expenses down for the project and since I am not going to be gaming or anything unusual, the HD 5770 at $154 would fit my purpose very well. Before I order, I will review and it will depend on which "ME" is at the keyboard - the impulsive me or the conservative me.
By the way, there are two HD 5770s both have same description except for one is "Express 2.0" and the other is "Express 2.1". My assumption is that I should get the 2.1 (I assume updated) version. Is this a good assumption?
Thanks for the update.
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As I understand it the versions are compatible anyway so I always go for the most up to date.
I undersatnd what you are saying regarding the graphics cards and I'm sure that performace wise the 5770 would do you just fine then but do bear in mind that the newer 6850 is also cooler and quieter apparently.
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Jannie,
Thanks for feedback on MoBo. This reenforcement makes me confident in my choice. (Unfortunately, confidence is that feeling you have just before you know better. Just a joke. I do feel confident).
In addition you would be a good source of knowledge. Doing an actual build is a great education, and as they say - if you think an education is expensive, try ignorance.
Thanks, Sqawker
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CanUK, Mantis,
I looked at the HD 6850 (approx $260) and I would like to have it. Unfortunately I have to keep expenses down for the project and since I am not going to be gaming or anything unusual, the HD 5770 at $154 would fit my purpose very well. Before I order, I will review and it will depend on which "ME" is at the keyboard - the impulsive me or the conservative me.
By the way, there are two HD 5770s both have same description except for one is "Express 2.0" and the other is "Express 2.1". My assumption is that I should get the 2.1 (I assume updated) version. Is this a good assumption?
Thanks for the update.
Where are you at. In the US HD5770's go for around $150 and HD6850's go for around $200.
Bill
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I agree, the 6850 is just a hair more than the 5770. The 6870 is actually a lot more. I made a silly mistake there, but look around and you can find the 6850 for close to the same price of the 5770.
Edit: Just checked newegg, there is about $50 difference between the two. I understand about budgets and that, so get the best you can afford and never look back :).
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I agree, the 6850 is just a hair more than the 5770. The 6870 is actually a lot more. I made a silly mistake there, but look around and you can find the 6850 for close to the same price of the 5770.
Edit: Just checked newegg, there is about $50 difference between the two. I understand about budgets and that, so get the best you can afford and never look back :).
Yup I agree 100%. If he is not going to game a 5670 would even be overkill and they can be had for under $100. I have a HD 5670 in my HTPC and it drives my 1080p HD TV just fine. Net, Video etc. It even plays most games fine on lower settings.
Bill
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Wonderwrench,
Don't remember where I got my prices. I stopped searching after finding a price - I will try again. It does seem that there are a lot of 'web stores' in Canada, Australia, and Great Britain. I did not realize that for a while.
Thx, Sqawker
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ebuyer.co.uk and dabs.com both work well for UK.
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CanUK,
Thinks for reference - will keep eye on them.
Update. Yesterday I ordered my GA-890XA-UD3 (rev 2.0) from an "ONSale.com" site - price $139.99 .
Thx, Sqawker
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Over the weekend, I went to wrap my new MoBo to put under the tree (to be from Wife). I noticed that on the end of the box there was a tag stuck to the box and after the GA-890XA-UD3 there was rev 1.0 . Once I noticed this, I did not disturb the MoBo - it stayed wraped, in box.
When I ordered the MoBo it was advertised as rev 2.0 . Yesterday I looked at the website and it was rev 2.0 (see the site)...
http://www.onsale.com/s?rch&q=GA-890XA-UD3&removedLicenseFilter=true&includeImage=true (http://www.onsale.com/s?rch&q=GA-890XA-UD3&removedLicenseFilter=true&includeImage=true)
I won't be able to contact them until at least 11am central. My question - Is it worth the time and effort to get the rev 2.0 ?
Sqawker
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Hi Sqawker,
Being totally honest I tend to prefer the earlier revisions of motherboards as Gigabyte makes changes but doesn't make clear exactly what it is they have altered and, when you ask you get some vague comment about a change to some component or a redesign of the layout.
A quick look at the specifications shows there is a difference in the number of USB ports as well as a couple of other things between the two versions:
Rev 1.0: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3376&dl=1#ov
Rev 2.0: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3421&dl=1#sp
Only you can really decide which Revision you want but my view is that you have ordered and paid for a Rev 2.0 and that is what you should have got.
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I too would prefer a revision 1.0 board on the whole as they tend to make them better and then cut back on features after they have "proved" the boards. I totally agree with absic on this but if you decided on a rev 2.0 board then by all means change it.
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Absic, Dark Mantis.
Greatly appreciate your help. You responded quickly and with great information. I understand more now and will keep the rev 1.0. Can definatley use the extra USB ports. Everything else looks about the same - did not see anything that I would lose.
Thx, Sqawker
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Just ordered a CMPSU-850HX PSU from Amazon.
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32 bit OS's only supports 4 gigs of ram so you will need to install 64 bit windows 7. Most if not all 32 bit programs work fine in Windows 7 64 bit. Note any 32 bit programs used will not be able to use more than 2 gigs of memory. This is not a limitation of Windows 7 is a limitation caused by 32 bit programs.
Actually, that is only the default condition. It's just a matter of flipping the LARGE_ADDRESS_AWARE bit in the EXE header, and any Win32 app will be handed a full 4gb virtual address space to use as it will. There is a hazard, if you're doing pointer math, that sign bits could muck things up royally, but otherwise there's no good reason for a developer using a 32-bit tool to not provide this bonus feature for his 64-bit customers.
http://visualstudiomagazine.com/articles/2010/03/22/easing-the-data-cramp.aspx (http://visualstudiomagazine.com/articles/2010/03/22/easing-the-data-cramp.aspx)
To use the full potential or your new PC you may need newer versions of the software you use. AKA photoshop, video editing software etc. Do some research on the versions of the programs you are going to use. Do they support Windows 7? 64 bit etc.
If not need, very possibly want. :)
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Now for the graphics card.
Does anyone have a preference for one of these and why?
Sapphire HD6850, XFX HD 6850 or HIS HD 6850?
Thx, Sqawker
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There is no choice at all it has to be the Sapphire.
For a start they have the best backup and access to all the technical details in house and they also make the VaporX cooling system which is much quieter and efficient.
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Thanks Mantis. That settles that.
Sqawker
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Just placed order on Amazon for the "Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 1 GB GDDR5 VGA/DL-DVI-I/SL-DVI-D/HDMI/Display Port PCI-Express Video Card 100315L"
Thx,Sqawker
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Nice card and nice price. At least you will get it before the VAT rise! ::)
Let us know your impressions of the card when you get it please. ;)
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Guys,
http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=GA-890XA-UD3 (http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=GA-890XA-UD3)
The above link points to a guaranteed-compatible memory upgrade kit for the GA-890xa-ud3 mobo.
((8GB Kit (4GBx2), 240-pin DIMM, DDR3 PC3-10600 memory module CT2KIT51264BA1339 ))
I assume that this is dual channel memory. How would I know that from the description?
I was looking for 1333 speed in the description and I find “DDR3 PC3-10600” what does the PC3-10600 mean?
I finally found a 1333 in “DDR3-1333” . I assume that this is the module’s speed?
This is Crucial’s 4GBX2 Kit that they say will work for the GA-890XA-UD3 Mobo.
If I come back several months from now and match all the specs for this kit and order a second kit like this, should the total of ‘ four X 4GB’ ( 2 separate kits) work together?
It sounds like this is THE KIT that will work. Good chance?
Thx, Sqawker
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The memory should be fine and the Dual Channel as opposed to Single Channel is just decided from the BIOS.
10600 is the same as 1333Mhz.
1333 is the Mhz speed of the memory.
Yes in theory if you purchase the same kit in a few months time it should be compatible with the one you purchase today.
Should be fine.
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I bought a REFURBISHED (for whatever reason) new Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS) Western Digital SATA 3.0GB/sec HDD from the MicroCenter ($59). I know it may be a risk, but I am going to take it. It was just the drive so I am going to research and learn.
I will start Tuesday or Wednesday on putting the system together. I found in the WD site (http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=2534&p_created=&p_cats=185&p_cv=1.185&p_pv=2.279&p_prods=227,279#jumper (http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=2534&p_created=&p_cats=185&p_cv=1.185&p_pv=2.279&p_prods=227,279#jumper) jumper settings.
What are "SSC" and "1.5 Gb/s data transfer speed activated" jumpers? Should I use them or just take the "Standard configuration" of no jumper? I am under the "JUMPER SETTINGS FOR SATA 3.0 Gb/s 3.5in Hard Drives".
Thx, Sqawker
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I wouldn't worry about it being refurbished as that can cover just about any scenario from a broken packaging to a complete rebuild. You will still get the warranty so there is nothing to worry about.
Leave the jumper setings as you have them now.
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I bought a REFURBISHED (for whatever reason) new Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS) Western Digital SATA 3.0GB/sec HDD from the MicroCenter ($59). I know it may be a risk, but I am going to take it. It was just the drive so I am going to research and learn.
I will start Tuesday or Wednesday on putting the system together. I found in the WD site (http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=2534&p_created=&p_cats=185&p_cv=1.185&p_pv=2.279&p_prods=227,279#jumper (http://wdc.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/wdc.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=2534&p_created=&p_cats=185&p_cv=1.185&p_pv=2.279&p_prods=227,279#jumper) jumper settings.
What are "SSC" and "1.5 Gb/s data transfer speed activated" jumpers? Should I use them or just take the "Standard configuration" of no jumper? I am under the "JUMPER SETTINGS FOR SATA 3.0 Gb/s 3.5in Hard Drives".
Thx, Sqawker
Sqawker,
Hey, are you in the USA? If so, may I ask what city?
Not long ago Target was selling the WD 2tb external HD's for $69.99. Many people purchased them and lots of em' also removed the 2tb HD from the enclosure and installed them as internal HD's.
Are you in the US?
Soar
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Sorry Soar,
I've been out-of-pocket but I'm back. I am in Dallas Texas. I'll check target out.
Thx