Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: Deathchant on September 21, 2011, 10:13:01 am
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I've bought myself a new computer @ www.highflow.nl with these components:
CPU: Core i7 2600K
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z68XP-UD5 (F1 bios)
Graphics card: MSI GTX570 Power Edition
Memory: Kingston HyperX dual channel 8G (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX)
SSD: Crucial SSD 128G M4
CPU-cooler: Prolimatech mega shadow
Powersupply: Corsair AX750
Case: Lian Li PC-P50
Thermal paste: Arctic MX-4 (nonconductive)
As you can see, I've bought the GA-Z68XP-UD5 motherboard and I think it is broken.
The startup shows a gigabyte logoscreen and afterwards some weird artifacts in the upper half of the screen and it just keeps hanging. I am not able to enter the bios at all.
I've made some pictures about it.
1: the startup screen:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/312807_1481993785650_1707991775_733499_947051176_n.jpg)
Also, the GD2-led stays orange and according to the motherboard manual, it means excessive overload/overvoltage as you can see here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/296302_1481994465667_1707991775_733501_1568701786_n.jpg)
I have tried to exclude all individual components:
memory: I've tried only 1 module in each slot -> no improvement
graphics card: I've tried the onboard-CPU-graphics and connect it via HDMI to my plasma TV -> no improvement. I've tried 2 other graphics cards (8600 and 8800GT) -> no improvement
I've tried other power cables to ensure no cable was broken -> no improvement
I've build out everything outside the case to ensure there is no shortcut in power due to case-conductivity as shown here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/297309_1482174790175_1707991775_734032_933179178_n.jpg)
re-installing CPU and CPU cooler -> no improvement
I also did not tighten the screws of the prolimatech so the cooler could rest on the cpu, excluding potential mobo-bending could be an issue. -> no improvement.
I've doublechecked if there are no broken CPU pins and it looks fine. See here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/309142_1482174470167_1707991775_734030_145714658_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/308704_1482173870152_1707991775_734028_1689058355_n.jpg)
And here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/318447_1482173390140_1707991775_734026_1349628137_n.jpg)
When I build everything outside the case (on a wooden table), I only connected the 24pins connector for the motherboard, the 8pin CPU powerconnector and the graphicscard connector, but I still no improvement.
After I did this, I removed the battery, and I did a cmos clear and then put the battery back. I got a successfull bootup after this, only 1 time, and I was able to get into the bios only once, as shown here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/292758_1482224271412_1707991775_734056_223396658_n.jpg)
here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/307208_1482224711423_1707991775_734057_445598129_n.jpg)
and here:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/299333_1482225351439_1707991775_734058_317678460_n.jpg)
I've changed the bios settings into the most safe defaults and I could reboot without any issues.
After some reboots and random power-off actions by the PC itself, I could not enter the bios anymore:
I've made a movie on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VJaHAzXHoQY
Please note that the GD2-LED was still orange (excessive overload/overvoltage according to the manual), but the voltages in the bios seemed very ok, so the powersupply does not seem to be the issue.
Afterwards, when shutting the PC down, I was in the same situation as before again. I tried the cmosclear and battery-removal again a few times, but this time no success.
If the CPU was the issue, I would not be able to see anything on the screen.
The LED status:
GD1 LED = green
GD2 LED = orange (excessive overvoltage)
Phase LED = all leds on
CPU LED = off (also when I was able to boot to bios)
I've tried to replace the AX750 with a Tagan480W and all of a sudden I could enter the bios again, so you would expect the PSU, but the GD2 led stays orange. I've checked all the voltages:
vcore CPU default 1.250V. Change to 1.19V. did not make the LED go away.
QPI/vtt voltagedefault 1.050V. Change to 0.9 did not make the LED go away.
CPU pll is 1.800V. Change to 1.600V did not make the LED go away
System agent voltage is default 0.925V. Change to 0.9V did not make the LED go away.
After this. I've disconnected the Tagan again and replugged my Corsair AX750 cables and guess what....I could boot to the bios! But I have to notice that the PC did a poweron-poweroff spontaneously only once. After that I was able to get into the bios and a regular post, reboot after reboot.
I also tried a Coolermaster 400W PSU and it makes no difference for the LED.
I was able to flash the bios from F1 to F4, and I still have a stable system, but the excessive overvoltage LED worries me. My PC could quit again anytime and I have no clue why my pc is stable now and not before, despite my detailed testing. I have no clue what triggerd my pc to boot properly. The battery-cmosthing was only once, exchanging PSU also only once.... I dare not to continue this way, since I am afraid other components can be damaged later on.....
Brainstorming/help is much appreciated. I am a bit worried about RMA my motherboard, since I'm not willing to wait 8 weeks for a repair/replacement. I only found this topic (http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,4250.0.html) that can be related, except for me, the PSU is working correctly
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Hi and welcome.
You seem to have covered most of the usual faultfinding with some unusal results. It is possible that your BIOS could be corrupt. How did you flash the update ?
What version do you have on the Backup BIOS ?
You could of course take the motherboard back to the retailer to be swapped over if you have only just built it.
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Well that's the problem...my retailer says I can only return it under their RMA procedures....This means i can send the mobo RMA on 10 october (they are back from holiday then), and then another 6-8 weeks for Gigabyte to investigate. This means I have my mobo back mid of december. This is unacceptable for me....
I've only just built it yes. I got the stuff on september 2nd, and built it on september 8 (because i had to wait for other components to arrive) and since then I have this issue. 9 september I went on a holiday for a week.
The version that came with the mobo was F1. I backed it up on my usb stick when using the QFlash. After the backup, I flashed bios F4, but the excessive overvoltage GD2-LED stays on. But I can boot now, but I don't know the status of the system, and I'm afraid I will fry my cpu or other components if I continue using it.
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Anyone???
It seems that no one know how those LEDs should behave. I've tried 3 different PSU's, yet the GD2-LED stays orange despite lowering the voltage in the bios. Should this LED be green or out in a normal working situation?
As soon as I press the poweronbutton button, it is orange.
2 corrupted bioses (F1 and F4) seems a 1 in million-chance.....
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Good fault finding practice so far.......But you need to rule out the CPU...
Can you beg, borrow , steal a CPU ,..... doesn't matter to much which one .....as long as the board supports it .... this way, in one foul swoop ... you can rule out the CPU and Pin nest ( LGA )
Aussie Allan
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why do you suspect my CPU then?
I do not know any people that have an other CPU for me....
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Not much else left is there.....but!
1) DVI Monitor Cable
2) Monitor
3) CPU=RMA possibly
4) Motherboard=RMA possibly
Quote: ....If the CPU was the issue, I would not be able to see anything on the screen.....
Not necessarily! a few select bent pins can cause unusual memory problems which can be a bitch to fault find .... or screw a large section of your display .... it just sometimes comes down to which pins, how many are not getting contact, and where they are in relation the the LGA socket
the images you supplied Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!...... flash is not helpful in these matters .... as too is hand held shots....
If you have a tri-pod, great........if not use a book but turn off the flash! ........a good desk lamp to provide strong light at say a 45 Degree angle will usually stop the flair so you end up with a good pickie to post ...... if it's not sharp (the photo) don't bother ... also use the 5/10 second timer .... that way your not touching the camera for pin sharp shots.
Orange LEDs .....Red is the only colour you need to really worry about .... Green, yellow, orange are generally fine as the LEDs are really only a visual Que of load .... what counts is the actual voltages that the BIOS actually reports
Because it hangs, as well as the weird artifacts .... tells me it's CPU and/or LGA socket .... as long as you're sure 100% the PGU is defiantly out of the loop...... it points in this direction ... but try the things I suggested at the top of the post first....
Aussie Allan
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well the cpu itself does not have any pins at all. It's the socket on the motherboard that has the pins.
I do not have a macro lens at all.
Imagine for a moment it IS the cpu....how would you explain the random reboots and the GD2 LED en why doesn't it happen anymore now, while the GD2 led is still orange?
Is it an option to buy the Intel Celeron G440 s1155 to test? And to what conclusions can I come? I can only check now if the GD2 LED changes or not. Currently there are no other symptoms happening. But they CAN happen again, it's just a matter of when....
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Allan gave you perfectly good advice, how you deal with it is up to you. We can only say what we think might be the problem as accurately as possible but obviously you have to put that advice into practice. The photos's were no good at all to be honest as the pins on the socket were not visible seperately likewise with the lands on the CPU.
I can only suggest what you have done already by building it outside of the case and using the least number of components possible. Then run tests to check them all one after another.
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I already did that.
The only thing I could do is indeed test an other CPU. Would the Intel Celeron G440 be good to test it (to rule out the motherboard<>CPU components)?
I will try to ask someone with a macro lens and I will try to make some decent pictures.
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No a Celeron G440 wouldn't be any good as it is not a supported CPU.
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thank you for the update! I almost bought it hehe ;)
It is s1155 however....
EDIT: look here!!
http://www.gigabyte.co.nl/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3909
2600K supported since bios version F2! I've got the issues on F1 and after the flash to F4, it keeps steadily, but the overvoltage led stays orange....
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well, I checked the CPU list and a Celeron G530 is compatible. So I've ordered myself this CPU for 45 euro's for testing purposes only. This weekend I will try to build in the new cpu and I will make some pictures of the socket.
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well, I checked the CPU list and a Celeron G530 is compatible. So I've ordered myself this CPU for 45 euro's for testing purposes only. This weekend I will try to build in the new cpu and I will make some pictures of the socket.
Good! ... All in all this is your best, logical course of action .... hopefully at that price you can recycle and maybe loose nothing after it serves it's purpose...... or at worst...... a handy emergency CPU if the bigger one ever goes tit's up!
I understand better then most , all you want is the PC fixed, ... this is why we're here and why the forum was setup in the first place.
But it would serve no purpose at all, if after reading your post I told you what you wanted to hear,.......there's plenty of other forums that do that or are answered by 14yr olds after there first build and now qualified "Egg-Spurts"
If I think there is a potential fix to your problem, ... I'll tell it like it is, after all, this is why you posted here in the first place.
DM, ABSIC and a few others will agree with me here, .....Having to qualify our advise in intricate detail, ....we just don't have the time.
But as an example:
"well the cpu itself does not have any pins at all. It's the socket on the motherboard that has the pins." .....
I think I understand the fundamentals of this theory ;)
Imagine for a moment it IS the CPU....how would you explain the random reboots and the GD2 LED en why doesn't it happen anymore now, while the GD2 led is still orange?
"Let's assume it's bent pins" ...(could be several things re the CPU, but I'll pick this one) .....
INTERMITTENT PIN CONTACT - LGA 1155 (Socket H2)
Of the 1155 pins in contact with the CPU ... even 1 pin not in contact can cause, ... small quirky issues, instability, failure to boot, monitor bleed, Pix-lated screens, memory corruption..........I could write on but you get the picture, ...... then there's intermittent pin contact that can course all of the above but randomly .... it could be thermal and act like a thermal switch, could be a pin in contact with the very edge of a pad measured in microns, that will supply sufficient current under light load but fail with heavier ones
The GD2 LED may be indicative of your problem but orange is orange and not red..... I also saw your photos on another website with your Phase LEDS next to the memory lit up like a Xmas tree.......besides being more information we could have used this further points to CPU/LGA Socket
I advise you to double check the state of the socket carefully with a visual aid prior to inserting the test CPU at the very least
Looking forward to your next chapter.... 8)
Aussie Allan
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hi Alan,
oh, I definitely not make a topic just to hear what I want to hear ;) It's just that I did so much research already and people keep ignoring the fact that it is not simply a matter of borrowing a 2600K from someone else. It's not that easy you know ;) I'm glad I could arrange someone with a spare PSU and that I have a spare graphics card ;)
I live in the most southern point of the Netherlands, and i don't know any people with stock cpu's ;)
But I hope to receive the Intel Celeron G530 tomorrow, so I can test it.
It's "only" 45 euro's and I can try to sell it again for a reasonable price.
The Phaseleds are all lit up like a christmas tree yes, but according to the tweakers.net forum this is normal (other users have it too) and it will go away later on, that's why I did not pay attention to that anymore.
Strange that the GD2 led stays orange while I decreased al voltages in the bios by -0.2V wherever that was possible.
But ok, the possible issue could be:
- CPU
- Socket
- Powerdistribution on motherboard
In the last 2 cases: RMA motherboard. In the first case: RMA cpu.
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You got it!
we'll just have to take it one step at a time .... sadly.....I wish I could say it's CPU/M-Board 100%.......but it's probably 95%
We're dealing with the PC God here!.... ;)
Aussie Allan
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hehe, yeah, I know. You got to give me credit for not posting: "hey my motherboard doesn't boot, please help me" 8)
Well it could be another thing....cpu-cooler-tension.
I have a prolimatech mega shadow, and as you can see on the pics, the bar on which the cooler gets mounted, covers three powerphases. Maybe due to pressure, it might cause the motherboard to bend.....it has a firm backplate, so I don't think so, but you never know.
I did test it once without tightening the screws, but no improvement. But I will also test the boxed intel cooler just to be certain.
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It never hurts to test everything you can think of.....especially when there little or no cost!
Aussie Allan
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Ok, I got a mail that the CPU will be delivered tomorrowmorning, so that's good.
I also got a reply back from gigabyte about the excessive overvoltage:
There is a latest beta BIOS F5a as attached, which could let you choose to enable the excessive overvoltage or not. Maybe you could keep it firstly, and try it later on when your board is back to you again.
Have a nice weekend!
Kind regards
GIGABYTE-Team
I cannot understand the last sentence.....do they mean that I should flash this bios onto my motherboard now, or should I wait for a new motherboard IF I do an RMA? Sometimes their english sentences are not that fluent :)
And do I understand correctly that that bios beta version allows me to choose to enable overvoltaging? That sounds like other bios versions do not allow you to do that....but it sounds like I could choose the GD2 led to go on or not....
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Considering you don't have a stable platform, .... I think you should wait for the CPU, .... if you try and flash it now and it crashes during the write :o
I think they were just trying to be nice and got another case mixed up with yours......just take it at face value of.....you got an answer, you got a new BIOS, .... and you got a "........Have a nice day"....not bad for a Friday afternoon ;)
Aussie Allan
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hehe, that's right! I'll wait with the beta then. First things first. CPU!! ;)
I was worried about the 3 different-colored transistors (or how do you call them) on the back of the cpu itself, but I found out that this is normal:
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/intel_corei7_2600k_and_corei5_2500k/images/14.htm
I was a bit worried about those things but it seems to be fine :)
I'll make some macro pics of the socket and you will hear from me soon ;)
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Well, I've got news. I've just build in the G530 celeron.
What dit I do:
- I made some macro pictures. It looks like the socket is ok.
- celeron G530 installed
- prolimatech mega shadow (+MX4) installed, but without putting tension on the screws (my pc lays flat on my desk)
Then the exciting moment: will the GD2-led go green/stay out, OR does it stay orange like always...
Too bad......oranje it is again :(
I must say there are no hickups or boot problems since bios F4, but the random shutdowns and reboots could be because of the bios F1 that I had. But I'm not sure of it. Since I have to troubles anymore booting, you could say the excessive overvoltage and the random reboots are not directly related.....But again, I'm not sure.
Then I turned my pc off, trying again with the Tagan and coolermaster PSU that I have, but it results in the same. Vcore is lower on this celeron than it is on the 2600K (1.12V <> 1.22V).
OK, some pictures then:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/310738_1505606335949_1707991775_749452_1554350799_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/305223_1505606495953_1707991775_749454_271832759_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/297193_1505606775960_1707991775_749455_893997996_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/318308_1505607215971_1707991775_749457_2049108555_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/302179_1505607415976_1707991775_749458_319355936_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/310918_1505607615981_1707991775_749459_205550129_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/304742_1505606175945_1707991775_749451_1404112216_n.jpg)
Photo's couldn't get any better since I do not have a proper macro lens. I just borrowed it from a friend.
So I think I've ruled out the CPU succesfully.
The socket seems fine so I can only think of 2 options:
- powerphases (or the distribution from it to the CPU)
- or a faulty bios again (but I cannot seem to find any users that have such trouble with this F4 bios)
So I think there is almost no change that my supplier will find other issues.
I would love to assume the orange GD2-led is just fine, but I don't want to risk other components to be in danger.
I'm very tense when it comes to overvoltage messages...
So.....what next?
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Deathchant
It's amazing what better photo's can do ...Good job Gungadin!...... the nest seem to be fine!
Now you have 4 dimm slots ..... are you using just two ?..........with your 8G (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX) and there in the correct slots for population from your manual ?
Are you getting any monitor related issues anymore ?
What is the difference in operation with the new CPU compared to you original one .... what is the same ....what is improved ....what is different ?
I'm tiling a bathroom today but I'll do My best and check in when I can!
Aussie Allan
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That's a lot of questions.
Yes, the manual says DDR3_1 & DDR3_2, in which they are currently situated.
I'm not getting monitor related issues (I've never had those....)
Difference between the 2 cpu's? Totally none, apart from the other multipliers, different voltages and corespeeds, nothing is changed and nothing is different. The christmas-tree-like phaseleds also lit up fully with this new celeron cpu. So really, I don't notice anything different.
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Right ! is the Rig stable enough to Flash with the new CPU (Q-Flash) ..... if you think it is ....follow this!.....Strip the board down to:
PSU
CPU and cooler
GPU
Memory (put in just one dimm in the master slot for now)
Main drive only :C
optical DVD/XXXXX
Now flash the board with the new BIOS file you got your hands on .....remember to tick "Clear Data Pool" for the flash process ...... reboot/Delete/Bios window...... and set to "Optimized Defaults" and save and reboot again.
This will set the board up to go into hunting mode for ALL the equipment you have connected and not rely on what it thinks or was connected the last time
DELETE key and back into BIOS and make all changes necessary for your system ..... now leave as much as you can in AUTO .... except the Memory.....your memory is rated at 9-9-9-27 @ 1.65V ..... input these parameters manually ...... now try and reboot the machine and see if it's stable .... if it's stable ..... run memtest for at least an hour .... if it passes ..... shut down and insert second memory dimm and repeat.
If you get a BSOD .... write down the 00000x000 error code if it's up long enough
This should get us into the home straight if you get this far ;)
Aussie Allan
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strange, I cannot put it manually on 1.65V, only on 1.64V and 1.66V :(
I've set it at 1.64V. Memtest ran for an hour and 1 memstick is clean :)
The other is now running....
But I have great news! When I came back and the first stick was done, both powerphase leds and GD1&GD2 leds are out!!!
The only LED that is on is the mobo-state LED.
I really have no clue why. Maybe it is because it is on for like 3 hours now? I don't know? The reason I never found this out was because I did not want to risk leaving the computer on for more than a couple of minutes. But now with this memtesting, I did not think about the fact my computer would stay on for a long time.
As soon as my 2nd memstick is ready, I will reboot and I will try to see when and if the leds go out.
If this is the case, then I can't imagine the motherboard is broken, but that it was just a faulty bios (F1).
And if that is true, then I feel really stupid, because it is just how the motherboard works.
But hey, no one on 4 forums including Gigabyte could tell me that those LED's go out after x-minutes, so I feel partly guilty hehe:)
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Good! .... I suspect it will go out after the full boot phase runs it's path ... this is normal ..... meant to ask earlier, do you still have a bootable install to boot into Windows or have you not got that far yet ?
Aussie Allan
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well no. The reason was that I did not dare to go any further, so I did not come to W7 install....
I think I can risk it now. I will first try to reboot and then check how much time it takes to go out.
Maybe it is not time-related, but activity-related. Maybe if I let the motherboard go after the post, to the part where it says: insert bootable drive or something like that.
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Even my machine will light up like a Xmas tree until it gets into Windows well and truly ... this is normal .... could be an Idea to load up windows so you can download and install something like OCCT for stress test ..... stay away from Intel Burn for now .... a little to aggressive just yet........
Remember what where trying to do though
Prove the system will run stable with the present setup .....
then reload the old CPU (i7) and see if it will fire up like the Celeron and stable ..... one step at a time ;)
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so you suggest I do everything with the celeron now, install windows, stress it with OCCT and if everything is ok, replace the CPU with my "old" 2600K?
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Bingo!...... now we seem to have something stable .... this will prove the board, PSU, GPU and drive are in fact fine .... then we can throw on the last piece of the puzzle and see if it fall over.
Aussie Allan
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Ok it takes 52minutes for 1 memtestpass. I've got 4 passes without errors.
I did a reboot until the "insert bootdisk" text appeared. Guess what? Leds are out!
I know 100% sure that the leds where on in this stage of the boot process with my 2600K....
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Take notes!.....but keep going with the procedure we worked out .... all these little tit bits help form a picture .... looking more like CPU BUT
The new BIOS may have played a hand ....we wont know until we finish the procedure!.....I'm happy with memtest if you want to go to the next step.
Aussie Allan
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just to be clear, I did not flash the beta in the motherboard, but version F4.
Currently when the celeron boots, the leds go out right after the post (when the pc is in searching bootdisk-status).
If I do all the tests with OCCT (is prime95 also ok?), we can have the following situations:
1: Celeron test = OK -> motherboard +CPU look OK
2: 2600K leds go out after post and cpu test = ok -> no cpu or motherboard RMA
3: 2600K leds stay on, CPU test OK -> Mobo RMA???
4: 2600K leds stay on, CPU test NOK -> 2600K RMA
5: 2600K leds stay on, but go out later than with the celeron and CPU test OK -> Mobo RMA ???
6: 2600K leds stay on, but go out later than with the celeron and CPU test NOK -> 2600K RMA
Let's hope we don't end up in situation 3 or 5.
Alan, when I played with the bios settings, I got a spontaneous poweroff-poweron again, this time with the celeron in it. Is it normal for Gigabyte Z68 mobo's to do that?
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just to be clear, I did not flash the beta in the motherboard, but version F4.......Thats fine, as long as we have a constant...leave at F4
Currently when the celeron boots, the leds go out right after the post (when the pc is in searching bootdisk-status).
If I do all the tests with OCCT (is prime95 also ok?), we can have the following situations:...Prime is OK, I like OCCT for running temp Graph
1: Celeron test = OK -> motherboard +CPU look OK
2: 2600K leds go out after post and cpu test = ok -> no cpu or motherboard RMA
3: 2600K leds stay on, CPU test OK -> Mobo RMA???
4: 2600K leds stay on, CPU test NOK -> 2600K RMA
5: 2600K leds stay on, but go out later than with the celeron and CPU test OK -> Mobo RMA ???
6: 2600K leds stay on, but go out later than with the celeron and CPU test NOK -> 2600K RMA
Let's hope we don't end up in situation 3 or 5.
Alan, when I played with the bios settings, I got a spontaneous poweroff-poweron again, this time with the celeron in it. Is it normal for Gigabyte Z68 mobo's to do that?.........NO!...not that I'm aware of, but good you're taking notes though.....when you say " spontaneous power-off / power-on" as in it shut down and rebooted ?
Your pretty well right with the 1 to 5 ,.... Although we need to load windows now with what was stable (Celeron) and run Prime or OCCT for a while and see what happens............if every thing runs Hunki-dorie,....we can swap in the 2600 and power up
Don't read too much into the glitch you had while in BIOS just yet but it's been noted .... the real test now it's up is when it goes under load for a while , ......one step at a time!
Aussie Allan
Update just when I was starting to lean towards "Crook CPU" the motherboard wobbled .... it really is 50/50 until you complete those tests.
Bloody time consuming , but necessary.
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well, it just that I had saved my bios settings with F10, then it rebooted (this is normal ofcourse), but as soon as my pc did a power-reset after saving the bios, it did another poweroff and stayed off for 1 or 2 complete seconds and after that a poweron again.....so weird
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Now you have explained ..... not so weird ... Giga boards will quite often do a sort of double take/start when changes are made to BIOS large or medium parameter changes.....the little one some times are excepted without a second thought .... don't worry, this one I think normal
Have had any luck installing OS and running any type of stress test with the Celeron as yet .... even if it run for one hour would be good enough for a "PASS"
Aussie Allan
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Ok thanks for the comforting words. You would expect to have an unstable PSU hehe, but ok it is normal then ;)
well, a friend of mine is coming over with a W7 64bit enterprise cd, so I am planning to do that this afternoon or tomorrow.
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Good news then! ... stay in touch as you progress....
just to let you in to my thoughts.... hopefully it will load and run and stress test with no problems under the Celeron ...this will tell us 99% that it's the CPU........but it will have to go back in at some point to prove that it still fails (the 2600).................. if you do have a major glitch with the Celeron, you're going to have to leave the system as is but swap the Video cards around again ....I'm still not totally convinced that it can be completely ruled out if your present setup falls over , ..... but one step at a time ..... we need to be 100% sure before RMAing any components.
Aussie Allan
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Well, I've installed win 7 64bits enterprise. I installed all relevant benches: 3dmark11, prime95, cpu-z, gpu-z, as-ssd.
I've been updating windows first and updating my virusscanner. I've downloaded AIDA64, but is there any other handy program that monitors the temps?
Maybe I can link everest to my logitech G15 LCD.
I've installed all the latest drivers for my motherboard from the gigabyte website. (I have had XP pro for a while and I never worked with win7 before, so it takes some time to feel familiar with it :) )
1 thing I have to say: my god it is fast. A complete reboot takes only around 30 seconds with my crucial M4. Imagine this is only with a Celeron CPU :)
I have run 2 testcycles with prime95 last night, but I was so tired, I had to go to sleep. I think I can do it tonight. I think Prime95 will exit immediately when something is wrong with the CPU right?
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Now where getting somewhere and all good
Now you're enjoying why we went this route with the Celeron .... Yes it should exit if it becomes a little unstable and BSOD if it really doesn't like it
Now you have the luxury of having a system up and running with the worst case event, .... and that is when you finally put in the 2600 and it fails, .... RMA of the CPU might be a couple of days, .... but it could also be weeks
there is still a chance the 2600 might fire-up, ...... after all we have made more then several changes,....(But I doubt it)
Just run the test with the celeron and establish that it's rock solid stable.........then try the 2600 ;)
Aussie Allan
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I'm afk this whole evening, but I will activate the prime95 and see how that turns out when I come back. Tuesday = 2600K-day :)
I have the gut feeling that the 2600K will also be just fine.
in that case, nothing needs to be RMA'd, and I've learned an important lession on F1 bioses and how to interprete Gigabyte- LED-statuses :)
I will keep you up to date.
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OKI DOKI!
Aussie Allan
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OK, i've run the Prime95 for 1 hour and 12 minutes. The only thing it says it could not open some logfile, but other than that it went fine.
CPU load: 100%
CPU #1 temp: 39C
CPU #2 temp: 37C
vcore fluctuates from 1.056V - 1.12V
12V-rail: 12.172V
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Normally I would say over night! .... but under your circumstances and what you're trying to prove ........ bring on the 2600 ;)
Aussie Allan
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I have great news!
I took the celeron out and put the 2600K in.
After post -> all LEDs = out!
After 1,5 hour of torture in prime95:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/297601_1510329254019_1707991775_753072_1733044787_n.jpg)
Conclusion:
- 2600K not broken
- motherboard not broken
- GD2 led is just an oranje led that goes either on or off. After the post, before windows-startup, the GD2-LED goes out together with the rest.
Decreasing voltages in the bios does not make the LED-status change, this happens AFTER the post.
- Spontaneous reboots were no instability-signs. Some gigabyte motherboards do this after a bios flash or after changing a lot of settings and saving it to the cmos.
- I think the stripes and artefacts in-screen and the not-wanting-to-post-to-bios issues was really a bios-F1-issue. I really don't know what else it could be, I excluded everything now. On this site I can see that it is supported since F2:
http://www.gigabyte.co.nl/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3909
And no, I am not willing to flash back to bios F1 again :) The torture....
So for now, the quick conclusion is that my system is just fine now.
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Hey, great news mate. ;D At last all sorted. I wasn't sure of the status LED myself and so couldn't be definitive about how it worked. Now we know it will be easy next time. ;)
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Thanks for all the concern Dark Mantis and Allan!!
I've enabled the XMP profile (DDR3-1600 @1.65V @9-9-9-27), 2600K running @3.8GHZ and I did some prime95 again, only for a short while but no errors.
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Keep in touch as you progress, great to hear Columbia has launched successfully
Aussie Allan
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Well, I've tweaked W7 64bits that much that it fully looks like it is XP :P
I have played Crysis2 (without DX11 pack and high textures) and everything is stable. Man, it's good to have a fast PC:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/297483_1515686187939_1707991775_756907_1963866946_n.jpg)
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Nice to hear of a happy customer ...sweet picture!........ makes the occasional abusive poster worth while... now have some fun!
Aussie Allan
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I agree! Always great when it all works out in the end. Makes it all worthwhile. ;)