Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with AMD processors => Topic started by: soarwitheagles on January 04, 2011, 06:50:20 am
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Hi all,
Ok, my system was working flawlessly. I decided to install a new Galaxy 460 GTX. I removed the GTS 450, installed the 460 GTX and now my computer will not even start.
I am not even sure what I did wrong.
The GTX 460 required two [2] PCI-x plugs. My enermax as extra modulars for PCI-x. I plugged in the second plug and nothing will start.
I uninstalled the GTX 460, removed the extra PCI-x plug, and reinstalled the 450 GTS...but still nothing will work.
I have never had a system totally dead before and I have no clue where to start. Worst of all, this is my primary rig so I am in big trouble.
Can anyone help me please?
Thanks,
Soar
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Hi Soar,
Sounds a bit drastic mate.
I would suggest the easy things first like clear the CMOS and see if that makes any difference.
Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least ten minutes before replacing it.
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Opimised BIOS Defaults.
Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self and then press F10 to save and exit.
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Hi Soar,
well, what can I say???
As DM suggests try the easy things first.
Make sure the power connectors to the motherboard are still firmly seated, especially the 8 pin 12V ATX one near the CPU.
Silly thing but something that can be easily overlooked is does your PSU have an on/off switch? Have you accidentally switched this to the off position?
Does the main Power lead to your PC have a fuse? Have you checked that it is OK?
For a PC to be totally dead it would indicate an issue with the power supply or with the switches on your PC Case have you checked that these are all working OK? A simple test for the power switch from the PC Case is to remove the header from the motherboard and use a screwdriver to connect the two pins to see if the motherboard will fire up.
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To follow on from absic's train of thought make sure that the voltage switch (if your PSU has one) hasn't got moved to 240V as you need the 120V for it to work there.
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Hi Soar,
Sounds a bit drastic mate.
I would suggest the easy things first like clear the CMOS and see if that makes any difference.
Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least ten minutes before replacing it.
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Opimised BIOS Defaults.
Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self and then press F10 to save and exit.
DM,
Thanks for the reply. Ok, I did everything you suggested but still dead as a doornail.
I will try Absic's advice next.
One moment please!
Soar
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Hi Soar,
well, what can I say???
As DM suggests try the easy things first.
Make sure the power connectors to the motherboard are still firmly seated, especially the 8 pin 12V ATX one near the CPU.
Silly thing but something that can be easily overlooked is does your PSU have an on/off switch? Have you accidentally switched this to the off position?
Does the main Power lead to your PC have a fuse? Have you checked that it is OK?
For a PC to be totally dead it would indicate an issue with the power supply or with the switches on your PC Case have you checked that these are all working OK? A simple test for the power switch from the PC Case is to remove the header from the motherboard and use a screwdriver to connect the two pins to see if the motherboard will fire up.
Absic,
Thanks for your reply. I appreciate you guys helping me.
Here is what I did:
1. Make sure the power connectors to the motherboard are still firmly seated, especially the 8 pin 12V ATX one near the CPU. Yes, all connectors connected and good to go.
2. Silly thing but something that can be easily overlooked is does your PSU have an on/off switch? Have you accidentally switched this to the off position? I have actually switched the power supply button numerous times as well as the reset switch all to no avail.
3. Does the main Power lead to your PC have a fuse? Have you checked that it is OK? No fuse, and the voltage is up to standard [I double check it after reading your reply].
4. For a PC to be totally dead it would indicate an issue with the power supply or with the switches on your PC Case have you checked that these are all working OK? I removed the power switch connectors on the MB and shorted [jumped] the power posts and still a no go.
After reading your post, I am beginning to suspect the PSU died. I sure hope I did not short it out when I hooked up the new video card.
Is there some way I can discover if the PSU is dead?
It's me,
Sad Soar
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Hi Soar
Check out this video to see how to do a simple test of the PSU: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4
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It does sound like a dead PSU doesn't it?
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It does sound like a dead PSU doesn't it?
Dm, yes indeed, it does appear it could be the PSU.
Thanks for your reply.
I just read about placing a jumper wire between the green and black wire to see if that starts the PSU. I want to be careful how I proceed on the testing of the PSU because I know it can be dangerous.
I do have a couple of very sensitive/expensive multimeters that I purchased recently. Years ago I built Heathkit's entire remote control receiver, transmitter, servos, etc. Had to test voltages on that too. Perhaps this PSU test is even easier? I have never tested a power supply before but I found the following article and thought I might try to test the PSU according to the following directions. I am still trying to figure out step 5 [shorting out 2 pins at once..how do I do that? Do I use a paper clip and if yes, is this dangerous?] Please let me know if you think it is a good method.
I have curly hair and prefer to not have it go totally punk rock vertically straight because I touched the wrong wire.
Also, I still remember going to a funeral in a third world country for a 16 year old boy who made the mistake of pouring oil into a 240v. fan motor while it was powered on. I'd like to go to heaven, but not this year please!
Thank you.
Soar
How To Manually Test a Power Supply With a Multimeter
Testing a power supply manually with a multimeter is one of two ways to test a power supply in a computer. A properly executed PSU test using a multimeter should confirm that the power supply is in good working order or if should be replaced.
Note: These instructions apply to a standard ATX power supply. Essentially all modern consumer power supplies are ATX power supplies.
Difficulty: Hard
Time Required: Testing a power supply manually using a multimeter will take 30 minutes to 1 hour to complete
Here's How:
1. Read Important PC Repair Safety Tips. Manually testing a power supply involves working closely with high voltage electricity.
Important: Do not skip this step! Safety should be your primary concern during a power supply test and there are several points you should be aware of before starting this process.
2. Open your case. In short, this involves turning off the computer, removing the power cable and unplugging anything else connecting to the outside of your computer.
To make testing your power supply easier, you should also move your disconnected and opencase somewhere easy to work like on a table or other flat, non-static surface.
3. Unplug the power connectors from each and every internal device.
Tip: An easy way to confirm that each power connector is unplugged is to work from the bundle of power cables coming from the power supply inside the PC. Each group of wires should terminate to one or more power connectors.
Note: There is no need to remove the actual power supply unit from the computer nor is there any reason to disconnect any data cables or other cables not originating from the power supply.
4. Group all of the power cables and connectors together for easy testing.
As you're organizing the power cables, I highly recommend rerouting them and pulling them as far away from the computer case as possible. This will make it as easy as possible to test the power supply connections.
5. Short out pins 15 and 16 on the 24-pin motherboard power connector with a small piece of wire.
You'll probably need to take a look at the ATX 24 pin 12V Power Supply Pinout table to determine the locations of these two pins.
6. Confirm that the power supply voltage switch located on the power supply is properly set for your country.
Note: In the US, the voltage should be set to 110V/115V. Check the Foreign Electricity Guide for voltage settings in other countries.
7. Plug the PSU into a live outlet and flip the switch on the back of the power supply. Assuming that the power supply is at least minimally functional and that you've properly shorted the pins in Step 5, you should hear the fan begin to run.
Important: Just because the fan is running does not mean that your power supply is supplying power to your devices properly. You'll need to continue testing to confirm that.
Note: Some power supplies do not have a switch on the back of the unit. If the PSU you're testing does not, the fan should begin to run immediately after plugging the unit into the wall.
8. Turn on your multimeter and turn the dial to the VDC (Volts DC) setting.
Note: If the multimeter you're using does not have an auto-ranging feature, set the range to 10.00V.
9. First we'll test the 24 pin motherboard power connector:
Connect the negative probe on the multimeter (black) to any ground wired pin and connect the positive probe (red) to the first power line you want to test. The 24 pin main power connector has +3.3 VDC, +5 VDC, -5 VDC (optional), +12 VDC, and -12 VDC lines across multiple pins.
You'll need to reference the ATX 24 pin 12V Power Supply Pinout for the locations of these pins.
I recommend testing every pin on the 24 pin connector that carries a voltage. This will confirm that each line is supplying the proper voltage and that each pin is properly terminated.
10. Document the number that the multimeter shows for each voltage tested and confirm that the reported voltage is within approved tolerance. You can reference Power Supply Voltage Tolerances for a list of proper ranges for each voltage.
Are any voltages outside the approved tolerance? If yes, replace the power supply. If all voltages are within tolerance, your power supply is not defective.
Important: If your power supply passes your tests, I highly recommend you continue testing to confirm that it can operate properly under a load. If you're not interested in testing your PSU further, skip to Step 15.
11. Turn off the switch on the back of the power supply and unplug it from the wall.
12. Reconnect all of your internal devices to power. Also, don't forget to remove the short you created in Step 5 before plugging back in the 24 pin motherboard power connector.
Note: The biggest mistake made at this point is forgetting to plug everything back in. Aside from the main power connector to the motherboard, don't forget to provide power to your hard drive(s), optical drive(s), and floppy drive. Some motherboards require an additional 4, 6, or 8 pin power connector and some video cards need dedicated power too.
13. Plug in your power supply, flip the switch on the back if you have one, and then turn on your computer as you normally do with the power switch on the front of the PC.
Note: Yes, you'll be running your computer with the case cover removed which is perfectly safe as long as you're careful.
Note: It's not common, but if your PC does not turn on with the cover removed, you may have to move the appropriate jumper on the motherboard to allow this. Your computer or motherboard manual should explain how to do this.
14. Repeat Step 9 and Step 10, testing and documenting the voltages for other power connectors like the 4 pin peripheral power connector, the 15 pin SATA power connector, and the 4 pin floppy power connector.
Note: The pinouts necessary to test these power connectors with a multimeter can be found in my ATX Power Supply Pinout Tables list.
Just as with the 24 pin motherboard power connector, if any voltages fall too far outside the listed voltage (see Power Supply Voltage Tolerances) you should replace the power supply.
15. Once your testing is complete, turn off and unplug the PC and then put the cover back on the case.
Assuming your power supply tested good or you've replaced your power supply with a new one, you can now turn your computer back on and/or continue troubleshooting the problem you are having.
Tips:
1. Did your power supply pass your tests but your computer still isn't turning on properly?
There are several reasons a computer won't start other than a bad power supply. See my How to Troubleshoot a Computer That Won't Turn On guide for more help.
2. Are you running into trouble testing your power supply or following the directions above?
If you still have problems testing your PSU, feel free to post in the PC Support Forumand we'll do our best to help out.
ATX 24 pin 12V Power Supply Pinout
Pinout for the Standard ATX 24 pin 12V Motherboard Power Connector
The ATX 24 pin power supply connector is the standardmotherboard power connector in computers today.
The connector itself is a Molex 39-01-2240 connector, often called a Molex Mini-fit Jr.
Note: The original ATX standard supported a 20 pin connector with a very similar pinout as the 24 pin connector but with pins 11, 12, 23, and 24 omitted.
Below is the complete pinout table for the standard ATX 24 pin 12V power supply connector as of Version 2.2 of the ATX Specification (PDF).
Note: If you're using this pinout table to test power supply voltages, be aware that the voltages must be within ATX specified tolerances.
You can see other ATX power supply connector pinouts in my ATX Power Supply Pinout Tables list.
ATX 24 pin 12V Power Connector Pinout (ATX v2.2)
Pin Name Color Description
1 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
2 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
3 COM Black Ground
4 +5V Red +5 VDC
5 COM Black Ground
6 +5V Red +5 VDC
7 COM Black Ground
8 PWR_ON Gray Power Good
9 +5VSB Purple +5 VDC Standby
10 +12V1 Yellow +12 VDC
11 +12V1 Yellow +12 VDC
12 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
13 +3.3V Orange +3.3 VDC
14 -12V Blue -12 VDC
15 COM Black Ground
16 PS_ON# Green Power Supply On
17 COM Black Ground
18 COM Black Ground
19 COM Black Ground
20 NC White -5 VDC (Optional - Removed in ATX12V v2.01)
21 +5V Red +5 VDC
22 +5V Red +5 VDC
23 +5V Red +5 VDC
24 COM Black Ground
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Hi Soar
Check out this video to see how to do a simple test of the PSU: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4
Absic,
Jeff's video from Corsair is very professional, very clear, and very easy to follow [I just watched it]. Thank you so much for linking me to that site.
I will test the PSU according to his instructions hopefully tomorrow.
I am doing my best to remain positive throughout this learning experience. I now realize I should be able to do basic PSU troubleshooting after doing all the reading, studying, and testing. Perhaps now I can become a real genuine geek or computer nerd! What do you think?
I am happy now.
Thanks again for your help!
Not-So-Sad Soar
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Hi Soar,
Stop worrying about the danger from the PSU...it will all happpen to fast to hurt! :o
No seriously there is no danger to humans from the outside of a PSU as long as you don't remove rthe cover. None of the wires carry dangeruos voltages the worst you could do is short it out. Just do the paperclip test with a fan and if you still want to check further use your multimeter.
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Hi Soar,
a silly thought but have you tried using the PSU from your other machine? Surely it is an easier way to find out if there is a problem.
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a silly thought but have you tried using the PSU from your other machine?
Yes I quite agree. A very silly thought! I just hate silly thoughts like that when they aren't my own ::)
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Hi Soar,
Stop worrying about the danger from the PSU...it will all happpen to fast to hurt! :o
No seriously there is no danger to humans from the outside of a PSU as long as you don't remove rthe cover. None of the wires carry dangeruos voltages the worst you could do is short it out. Just do the paperclip test with a fan and if you still want to check further use your multimeter.
DM,
Thanks for setting my heart and mind at rest by helping to know I will not go to heaven early due to working on my PSU. My wife will have to wait longer now for the life insurance, but such is life.
Ok, I'll hoping to find the time tonight to work on it. If not, for sure this weekend.
Have a good one!
Soar
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Hi Soar,
a silly thought but have you tried using the PSU from your other machine? Surely it is an easier way to find out if there is a problem.
Absic,
Hi again and thanks for that idea! Well, no, I did not think of that. After considering it, I think it best if I not try it. The reason is if I mess something up, then I have no other desktop to talk with you guys! And although we have a number of them, I do not like laptops or netbooks!
I think I would prefer to do all the voltage checks first so I can become more proficient at trouble shooting. I would like to build my confidence in this area of troubleshooting.
I forgot to mention that I have several brand new PSU's laying around at my house just looking at me and calling my name to go into this AMD build:
Zalmon 850 [but I would rather sell it on eBay]
XFX 650 Black Edition [I really like this one because it was built by Seasonic. But I am not sure if 650w is enough for my rig].
Various 600-650 watt OCZ PSU's that I never bothered to open and try
One comforting thought is that the present Enermax is still under warranty, so if it did go bad, they will definitely send me a new one [I just do not know how long the RMA process will require and I am already missing my AMD build a lot].
Absic, I also do not want to do all the work of removing all the connections from the Intel build and then putting everything back into the AMD build [I suppose this is called laziness]!
First things first I suppose. I will test the present PSU and see if that is the problem.
Lastly, I have also been reading about a POST card [as in Power On Self Test card] that can tell me if it is the MB. Have you ever used one and if yes, what are your thoughts on this?
It's me,
Soar
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Hi Soar,
well all I can say is you like to make things hard for yourself, don't you?
If you have all of these spare PSU's laying around why not use one of those? If the system fires up you know that the current PSU has failed, if it doesn't then you know that you have to look elsewhere!!
As for a POST card they are really only any good if you can actually get power to your motherboard, something that you ain't getting at the moment!
But I am not sure if 650w is enough for my rig
I'm only using a 625 Watt Corsair PSU in my rig and it works fine!
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I think that Soar really lives in a warehouse! He must do for all the gear he has in stock...more than most retailers :o
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Hi Soar,
well all I can say is you like to make things hard for yourself, don't you?
If you have all of these spare PSU's laying around why not use one of those? If the system fires up you know that the current PSU has failed, if it doesn't then you know that you have to look elsewhere!!
As for a POST card they are really only any good if you can actually get power to your motherboard, something that you ain't getting at the moment!
But I am not sure if 650w is enough for my rig
I'm only using a 625 Watt Corsair PSU in my rig and it works fine!
Absic,
I like your idea. I think I will try it tonight. Are sure 650 watts is sufficient?
Soar
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I think that Soar really lives in a warehouse! He must do for all the gear he has in stock...more than most retailers :o
No, I live in a TeePee made of buffalo skins and mostly we have crickets, bugs, mesquitos and snakes. No hardware or software here at all!
Ok, back to reality...yes, I do have lots of components laying around the house. But I am making progess in organizing and distributing all the times now.
Soar
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Hi Soar,
well all I can say is you like to make things hard for yourself, don't you?
If you have all of these spare PSU's laying around why not use one of those? If the system fires up you know that the current PSU has failed, if it doesn't then you know that you have to look elsewhere!!
As for a POST card they are really only any good if you can actually get power to your motherboard, something that you ain't getting at the moment!
But I am not sure if 650w is enough for my rig
I'm only using a 625 Watt Corsair PSU in my rig and it works fine!
Absic,
I like your idea. I think I will try it tonight. Are sure 650 watts is sufficient?
Soar
Also, is there a possibility of me frying the new power supply if something is wrong with the MB or GPU?
Soar
SPECIAL UPDATE: I tried the power supply test shown on the Utube video, and the PSU works just fine. The PSU powered up, the PSU fan kicked on, one 12 volt system fan I had plugged in also spun fine and the green light on the PSU lit up for the first time since the system died.
Now, only a small load was applied [all components were unplugged except the 12 volt system fan], so I am not sure how much of a test this really was.
PS I also tried plugging in the GPU in the lower GPU slot to see if I had toasted the 1st GPU slot, but still nothing fired up or powered on.
Ok, what next? Anyone have any ideas?
Soar
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Hi Soar,
If you want my honest, technical opinion then your PC is buggered! OK, so what can you do now?
The best advice I can offer is that you completely strip your system down removing everything from the motherboard including CPU.
Remove the motherboard from the PC Case and give it a thorough inspection to see if there are any noticeable signs of damage.
If everything seems to be OK then connect the power leads to the motherboard, the power connector from the PC Case and also the power LED. Do not add anything else, as all we want to know is does the motherboard have power running through it.
If you turn on the power does the LED light up? If not try turning the connector round and see if the LED Lights up. If no light your motherboard is probably dead and you will need to RMA it for repair.
If you can get the LED to light up then turn off the power, add a motherboard speaker, the CPU and the stock cooler to the motherboard and try to start it again. What POST Beeps do you get, if any?
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Hi Soar,
If you want my honest, technical opinion then your PC is buggered! OK, so what can you do now?
The best advice I can offer is that you completely strip your system down removing everything from the motherboard including CPU.
Remove the motherboard from the PC Case and give it a thorough inspection to see if there are any noticeable signs of damage.
If everything seems to be OK then connect the power leads to the motherboard, the power connector from the PC Case and also the power LED. Do not add anything else, as all we want to know is does the motherboard have power running through it.
If you turn on the power does the LED light up? If not try turning the connector round and see if the LED Lights up. If no light your motherboard is probably dead and you will need to RMA it for repair.
If you can get the LED to light up then turn off the power, add a motherboard speaker, the CPU and the stock cooler to the motherboard and try to start it again. What POST Beeps do you get, if any?
Abssic,
Thank you for your reply and your honest, technical opinion! But, what is "buggered?" I have never heard the term before. It must be British.
Ok, I did exactly as you said, and no LED's at all. I think this 890XA-UD3 v.1 has given up the ghost [as in R.I.P]! To be honest with you, I really feel like taking a hammer to it and crushing and beating it into one or two thousand pieces...but then I suppose Gigabyte would probably not accept my RMA.
So, perhaps the 20 second rampage is not worth the $139 these MB's are now selling for [$7 per second]. Unfortunately, I cannot even kick the darn thing! AUUUUUUGGGHHHHHHH! Ok, I feel a little better now that I yelled so loud. But my neighbors are wondering if they should call the police or the psychiatric ward with all the yelling and shouting at our house tonight! Perhaps they should call both and include a computer geek while they are at it!
Needless to say, I do have three very important questions:
1. Is it possible the new Galaxy GTX 460 caused the MB to die [remember, everything worked flawlessly prior to my plugging the new card into the MB]?
2. If the Galaxy GTX 460 did kill my MB, how can I know for sure [is there some way I can test the GPU]?
3. Is it possible this Galaxy GTX 460 would kill another MB if I plugged it in?
Ok, it is me,
A very, very, very sad Soar who is out of a Gigabyte motherboard and main rig for at least the next 2 RMA weeks.
Boo Hoo!
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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Ah, trouble in paradise :o Looks like the light side failed 8)
I am not saying that the problem was due to the graphics card but purely numerically there do seem to have been an awful lot of 460s recently that have troubles. :o
Me, I will stick to AMD series graphics cards.
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Hi Soar,
Buggered, when used in this context, is a rather coarse English term for when something is broken .
Originally it referred to the act of homosexual anal intercourse and was a criminal offence in the UK until the late 1960's. There you go, you have learnt something new today that I bet you hadn't even considered learning.
I have to say that you have achieved something that I have never done in managing to blow a motherboard, nice one, if that is what you have actually done :o !!
Without knowing exactly what happened and what you did, it is hard to say why this has occurred. As the only thing you seem to have done is add the 460 then the finger of suspicion must point to that being faulty and creating the problem and if I were you, I would be looking to RMA both the motherboard and the graphics card. The reason I say this is because you don't have the necessary equipment to do any proper testing and just sticking the 460 into another motherboard could, potentially, create further problems for you.
Another thing to consider is, has there been any damage to your other components as you could well have fried your RAM and CPU along the way.
When you examined the motherboard did you notice any damage? Did the GPU socket on the motherboard have any scorch marks? Does the back of the motherboard look OK?
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Hi Soar,
Buggered, when used in this context, is a rather coarse English term for when something is broken .
Originally it referred to the act of homosexual anal intercourse and was a criminal offence in the UK until the late 1960's. There you go, you have learnt something new today that I bet you hadn't even considered learning.
I have to say that you have achieved something that I have never done in managing to blow a motherboard, nice one, if that is what you have actually done :o !!
Without knowing exactly what happened and what you did, it is hard to say why this has occurred. As the only thing you seem to have done is add the 460 then the finger of suspicion must point to that being faulty and creating the problem and if I were you, I would be looking to RMA both the motherboard and the graphics card. The reason I say this is because you don't have the necessary equipment to do any proper testing and just sticking the 460 into another motherboard could, potentially, create further problems for you.
Another thing to consider is, has there been any damage to your other components as you could well have fried your RAM and CPU along the way.
When you examined the motherboard did you notice any damage? Did the GPU socket on the motherboard have any scorch marks? Does the back of the motherboard look OK?
Thanks for the definition of the word "Buggered." I think it should still be a criminal offense...esp. when it refers to my nice conservation computer breaking down!
Changes on the motherboard:
1. Not sure if it is a change, but I did notice the Northbridge Heat Sink rocks back and forth fairly easily [not in accord with Absic's music, but if you physically move it gently with your fingers].
2. I did discover a slight discoloration/irregularity on the backside of the MB directly under a spot 1 centimeter away from the edge of the PCI1 and PCI2 slots [on the SATA [port side].
Other than these two things, I can't see anything else.
BTW-I did hook up the XFX PSU. At first try, the PSU fan came on two times. After that, it would not work too.
Ok, does anyone know exactly how and what PCI-E PSU plugs I was to use on this GTX 460? There are two sets of six-pin PCI-E sockets in the GTX 460 card. I simply plugged in [i.e buggered] two sets of male PCI-E plugs, two male plugs into two female receptacles [sounds like an orgy]. Did I do something wrong here?
Is there a different way to power up the GTX 460? The diagram on the instructions were a bit strange. It appeared as if on of the plugs should be a little different than the other!
This sure is looking more and more confusing. The diagram shows two very different PCI-E plugs:
One plug is an 8 prong plug [what is that]?
The other plug is a 6 prong plug with the top center wire missing [what is that]?
The card obviously only receives two 6-pin male plugs
Ok, hoping to find some answers...
Soar
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Ah, trouble in paradise :o Looks like the light side failed 8)
I am not saying that the problem was due to the graphics card but purely numerically there do seem to have been an awful lot of 460s recently that have troubles. :o
Me, I will stick to AMD series graphics cards.
Now, now DM. That's not very encouraging! And we all know Nvidia is much better than ATI any day of the week!
Well, on to other topics...can you help me understand the discrepancy between the above listed diagram and my card?
I think the artist needs to listen more to Absic's beautiful music before he attempts to draw an accurate picture of the card and plugs!
Soar
PS Any suggestions my dear friend? I really feel buggered right now!
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Now, now DM. That's not very encouraging! And we all know Nvidia is much better than ATI any day of the week!
That's why DM has a perfectly working PC and you don't!!!!
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OK Soar,
looking at the photograph of your graphic card's power connectors, you need as you stated, two 6 pin PCI-E power connectors. If you are using the right connectors they should only be able to fit in one way so you shouldn't be able to plug them in incorrectly.
The little diagram shows a 6 pin PCI-E power connector and an 8 pin PCI-E power connector. My 4850X2 use one 8 pin and one 6 pin connector and I would think it is just an old image that they have used.
Now, now DM. That's not very encouraging! And we all know Nvidia is much better than ATI any day of the week!
That's also why I have a perfectly working PC and you don't!!!!
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Well Soar nVidia may hold the power medal at the moment but only by a little and when you take the extra noise and heat into connsideration I will happily make do with second place. ;)
As absic has already pointed out the diagram is not correct and you must just connect whatever plugs fit. It is not possible to fit them wrongly.
It is a pain in the arse for sure!
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OK Soar,
looking at the photograph of your graphic card's power connectors, you need as you stated, two 6 pin PCI-E power connectors. If you are using the right connectors they should only be able to fit in one way so you shouldn't be able to plug them in incorrectly.
The little diagram shows a 6 pin PCI-E power connector and an 8 pin PCI-E power connector. My 4850X2 use one 8 pin and one 6 pin connector and I would think it is just an old image that they have used.
Now, now DM. That's not very encouraging! And we all know Nvidia is much better than ATI any day of the week!
That's also why I have a perfectly working PC and you don't!!!!
Why are they showing the 2nd PCI-E plug with the top center wire removed?
Also, why would they clearly indicate to NOT use a full 6 wired plug?
What is that top center wire in the 6 wire PCI-E plug that is removed and why would they suggest to have it removed?
Soar
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Now, now DM. That's not very encouraging! And we all know Nvidia is much better than ATI any day of the week!
That's why DM has a perfectly working PC and you don't!!!!
Absic, my most recent experience indicates only AMD's can work perfectly, never, never an Intel! Intel's are terribly prone to trouble and heart ache. That is why came over to the AMD side of the world.
Neener, neener DM!
Soar