Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: metalmike on November 26, 2011, 03:19:52 pm
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Hi,
I just put this together yesterday (650W PSU, i5 2500K, 500 and 1TB Sata II, optical sata, stock intel cooler) and I can't get system to come up if I use memory slots 3_1 and 3_1 per the manual for dual channel, nor 3_2 and 3_4 slots. If I put em in channel B as a pair (or single) the system posts and comes up. I have set optimized defaults in BIOS as well as ACHI for the controllers and disabled full screen logo. Default memory speed showed 1333 vs 1600 (voltage at 1.5v).
I thought I had been able to run 2 sticks in Channel A previously but now it just constantly resets during POST. I ran 2 sticks in channel B for 6 passes overnight with zero errors. Currently running other pair in channel B memtest (latest vis USB bootable setup). I don't understand why manual says to use the _1/_3 or _2/_4 slots for dual channel when the system won't even POST with them in that setup (either pair of modules). And now why it won't post with 2 in channel A slots. I am thinking this mobo is defective. I had gotten Win7 Home Premium installed yesterday with 2 sticks in channel B and system updates and some apps installed (av/malware/cpu-z, coretemp). Temps sit in upper 20's to low 30's at idle, ran a short Prime95 (64bit version and temps climbed into the 60's/low 70's range (not all case fans running (top/front intake/one next to PSU atm not connected).
BIOS is showing F9 and there is an F10 for this rev. board but @BIOS said there was no update available and on website doesn't appear to be one I need.
So a) why can't I run the modules in _1/_3 or _2/_4 slots, b) why won't it POST with all 4 installed and c) why will it not POST with sticks in channel A only? I am thinking this mobo is defective or there are some settings I am missing in BIOS. Also, why didn't it set to 1600 by default without me having to go into BIOS to set XMS profile which changed the speed to 1600 1600 vs 1333 1600 when I manually set the multiplier to 16.0?
Thanks in advance, I hope I don't have a dud for mobo....and the corsair HX650 PSU I bought may be dead too, using my older Thermaltake 650 till I can troubleshoot the Corsair.
Mike
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Hi and welcome.
You need to make sure that your memory modules are perfectly alright before worrying about the motherboard. For that you need to run the test properly.
Please follow these instructions exactly.
I would suggest that you download and run the latest version of Memtest86+ to check your RAM first.
Memtest86+ http://www.memtest.org/
Insert one stick of memory in slot 1 and run Memtest on it for at least 10 complete loops/cycles and if there are no errors then swap it over with the next one and continue untill you have checked all modules.
If you have any errors the module is faulty.
If you have any faulty modules you will have to return the whole kit as they are matched.
Post back when you have done that with the results.
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Hi Dark Mantis,
I ran a pair of em overnight for 6 full passes with zero errors. Currently running the other 2 for awhile as well with latest memtest+. Will report later on. Do I really REALLY need to do em all singly? If a pair passed 6 passes shouldn't that mean they are *ok* at this point? Otherwise this is going to take the rest of the weekend probably.
Thanks,
Mike
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I know it is a pain but to be really meaningful you have to follow the instructions as I laid them out. Six passes isn't enough at all and quite often will show up problems on the seventh. Make sure that you mark all the modules so they don't get mixed up too.
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Alrught, going back to single module, that's going to take at least 2 days straight doing them solo. I understand why as well. But can you also explain why I can't put the modules in typical dual channel configuration on this board? i.e. 3_1 and 3_3 or 3_2 and 3_4 slots (meaning it splits them between channel A and B). I have not been able to do that or run all 4 at a time. I'll check back in a bit.
Mike
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Not off the top of my head apart from if you have a dodgy stick of course. I take it you did buy all the modules as a single matched kit not singly ?
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Yes, I picked up the ram, a zalman cooler (may not fit all ram sticks so using stock cooler atm), mobo and some case fan replacements. First stick on pass 3 coming up on 4 (solo seems to take about 30-40 mins to make a pass (guestimate). I don't plan on overclocking the system (except memory to get it to run 1600 stable or if I have to (and don't want to since it's rated 1600 @ 1.5v)) and it'll be up 24x7 as main internet/some gaming/minor development (refreshing my brain/learning a bit of other languages) and maybe a bit of photoshop and my dvd ripping system to get my movies to my WHS box.
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Well of course you are going to have to make a few alterations to get all your memory running harmoniously together anyway because of the extra loading on the memory controller. Probably just increasing the DRAM voltage and maybe a tweak of the QPI/Vtt too.
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OK, 1st stick 13 passes, zero errors. 2nd stick 17 passes, zero errors. I just popped in the 3rd of 4 and it'll be going for about 6-7 hrs to hit 10 passes. So by tomorrow morning I'll have it completed. There are sooooo many options in this BIOS it's nuts, especially since it's been a few yrs since I had to go back into BIOS to tweak things. ;D
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Ok, I ran 11+ passes on each 4GB stick since the other day and all passed with no errors. What do you want me to do next Dark? I am at your bidding to get this sucker running. I have to do a bit of research on the Corsair PSU to find the 2 pins to short to test outside the case to see if it even turns on. I am hoping it isn't bad but initial installation doesn't look good. I want to focus on memory/current hardware for the time being to get it working with the 4 sticks. I am running F9 on this motherboard. F10 doesn't appear to be a need for me with regards to info on Gigabytes site for what it adds to functionality. I have Prime85 for Win7 64 bit installed as well as latest CPU-z and CoreTemp tools should I need them.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
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Well that's great news anmyway and now we know the memory is good and can be relied upon. I know it was a pain but it's one of those things that needs doing.
The PSU test is easy. Just connect up some load like a fan or something similar and then on the 24 pin plug find the green wire. There is only one and using a straightened out paperclip or something like that short out this GREEN cable with any of the BLACK cables. Then plug the PSU into the mains and turn it on. It should fire up and the load (fan) should run. If you have a multimeter you can check the voltages although remember that they might be higher than expected as they are in a no load condition. The black cables are all ground (zero volt).
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Hi, I will work the new PSU later on. I am more concerned with getting the mobo running with the 16GB memory at this point. Only peripherals are 1 500GB boot/install drive (has Win 7 prem. 64 bit already installed/enabled and a handful of apps at this point), a 1TB data drive (previous XP SP3 from prior mobo/setup), and a DVD/CD-RW optical SATA drive (will be looking to add a BD-Rom in near future for ripping my BD discs to add to my WHS HP MSS ex485 system). I am more concerned with getting this current setup working. The PSU can come later on. I just need to find the pins to jumper together to see if it even turns on. With it installed it did not even bring its fan on but again, this is secondary for time being.
So, what is next with the mobo and memory and BIOS settings to get things working at basically stock CPU speeds and 1600mhz memory speed (I do want to run it at rated speed, not 1333 which it defaulted to). And again, thx for the assistance. The newer BIOS (not just this mfr/mobo) has changed a LOT since '07! I had oc'd my E6850 and E8400 CPUs (2 diff. desktops) to 3.6Ghz back in '07/'08 but I backed them back to stock since I really didn't need the oc'ing for what I use either desktops for. I did enjoy trying it out/testing things out then. For now this will be 24x7 for this system. So let me know what you want me to do next and I'll get back to you after I try it.
You do remember i wasn't able to put a pair into channel A nor 1 in 3_1 and 3_3 for dual channel configuration. I am assuming this may be voltage related or a bad mobo. BIOS F9 and don't see need to go to F10 per what it shows it adds to BIOS.
Mike
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I do feel that you are tryiong to run before you can walk here to be honest. You are saying that you are not interested in getting the memory working at stock speed and only want to run it at 1600mhz. The thing is when something is not working properly it is a case of going through various stages to get it working before worrying about trying to get extra speed out of it. Once it is running perfectly and stable then you can start tweaking it for extra performance.
The info on the BIOS often doesn't tell the whole story and so I would be inclined to use QFlash to update the BIOS version to F10 now. Make sure that you disable the Keep DMI Data on the homepage when you are doing the update.
Post back once you have completed that.
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Well I would like to get all memory working at 1333 which appears to be default speed in BIOS. I just flashed to F10 and only 1 stick of memory is installed on slot 1. What's next?
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If the BIOS was picking up all the sticks before then I would reflash it back to F9. I don't remember you mentioning a problem with the BIOS seeing the RAM before.
In the end I hope to get everything working as it should but that does mean taking smaller steps to get there often. ;)
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I was never able to get the system to come up with all sticks installed. Only with 2 maximum in slots 1 and 2. It resets constantly if I put 2 in slots 3 and 4 or split between slots 1/3 or 2/4. And that was with F9 installed.
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It would be worth checking for bent pins on the CPU socket also.
Take all the usual anti-static precautions.
Very carefully remove the heatsink and fan. Probably a slight twisting motion is best to release the two as the thermal paste can act like a glue.
Once off remove the CPU taking extreme care both physically and electrically(static) and place somewhere safe.
Make sure that the lighting is very good and even.
Now scrutinise the socket for any pins that are out of alignment, even slightly.
Take a couple of macro (close up) photos of the socket and post them on here for us to check.
Also look at the bottom of the CPU at the lands (little copper circles) and make sure that there is a mark in each somewhere near the centre.
If there are any missing marks or any of the pins are obviously bent then that is your problem.
Before refitting the CPU clean off all residue of the old thermal paste and the same on the heatsink and then apply a small amount (about the size of a grain of rice) to the centre of the CPU once it is inserted in the socket.
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I'll see what I can do later tonight once home from work. I am hoping there are no bent pins (due to my inserting cpu or defective as could be issue returning to NewEgg).
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Well it is the sort of problem that would give those symptoms. Certainly worth checking in case that is what is causing your problem.
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I have to find how to turn off the flash on the camera but it looks like there may be a damaged pin in there. I tried moving it slightly with a small jewelers screwdriver and it seemed to be loose....www.darkenedsoul.net/cpu_pic.JPG (http://www.darkenedsoul.net/cpu_pic.JPG) is the better of the ones that weren't overly bright. Now it seems I'll have to RMA and hope to get it replaced... I don't think I forced the CPU down onto the pins and it was a snug fit with no undo pressure needed to lock it down. And my vision sucks in regards to really small stuff (glasses, etc....).
Mike
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You certainly have some damaged pins in there. Even with the quality of that photo I could spot at least two that weren't right! Try and get some more pics if you can but you are going to have to RMA the board anyway as it looks far too bad for you to be able to fix yourself.
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I am going to package it back up tonight and do the RMA thing with newegg.
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I don't know how you will stand with Newegg as they are a retailer and a lot of retailers wont accept pin damage as they say it is customer carelessness.
You might have to contact Gigabyte US and deal with them directly.
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Hmm we shalll see in the next week or so on that. In regards to the PSU I put in a paperclip to the green wire and a black wire and powered it up and the fan kicked in. So are we thinking it may be ok? That's next item to test in the case with the new mobo once I get that straightened out. I am hoping NewEgg replaces it with no issues, else not sure how hard it is to deal with Gigabyte directly.
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It sounds like the PSU is firing up and so I ex;pect that it is working alright.
It might be a good idea to try the motherboard outside of the case as you are going to have to dismantle it anyway.
The next thing is to remove the motherboard from the case and test it on the workbench.
Make sure that you observe anti-static precautions.
Lay some cardboard or use the motherboard box that is non-conductive on the worktop and remove the motherboard/CPU/heatsink/fan/buzzer/one stick of memory/graphics card and PSU from the case and put it on the cardboard. Add the keyboard and mouse and try and boot. The system should try and make a beep or series of beeps. Please post what sounds it makes.
I can't speak for Gigabyte US but their office over here is very friendly. It usually depends on how you approach other people as to the response you get I find. ;)
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I sent the mobo out last night (it willl be shipped later this afternoon via UPS to NewEgg) so the only possible testing I could do is with my old motherboard (Abit IP35 Pro) but I have to find where I put it. For now I may just wait to the replacement board. And were you serious to only put a grain-of-rice sized dollup of the paste? That seems a tad small amount, I thought it was smaller than a dime (like half a dime size perhaps)? I know you want a thin coat that gets spread around after fan/cooler is installed on top of the CPU. I may try to see if my Zalman 9500 will fit on it and not block slot 4 memory when new board arrives and I have CPU seated properly and no bad pins.
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Yes I was certainly serious about the size of a large grain of rice approximately. Too much is as bad if not worse than too little. Most people tend to be heavy handed in applying the compound. It literally has to cover the surface and in theory you should be able to read the printing on the surface of the CPU through it once spread. Just make sure that you use a good quality TIM as that is more important than shovelling it on!
Don't bother testing with another motherboard as that would be a total waste of time. It is only your board that we are interested in.
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I wonder if I am in the boat as this thread shows: http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,6322.0.html (http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,6322.0.html) which I happened to come across while looking for this forum at work. Interesting that others are having quality issues with their socket 1155. I am not sure I did anything to the socket on inserting the CPU, I can't guarantee that but it's kind of hard to damage the pins IMHO if you put it into the socket properly and just close/lock it down. Hopefully NewEgg will get me a new board by end of next week. In the meantime I have to use my ASus Laptop (G73 JH BestBuy model) or my other desktop to game on (E6850 w/4G Corsair Dominator dual boot XP SP3 Pro/Vista 64 Ult.). I think I'll re-download the client for my online game onto desktop as it's more comfy sitting in my chair vs hunched over table in living room on lappy.
Again, I don't believe I bent that pin(s) as I am pretty gingerly in doing CPU insertions and they've come a ways from the old days of CPU installation. And for paste I will go gingerly on applying it once I get board back and inspected. I really REALLY hope newegg replaces it this time.
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It is always a hard thing to prove either way whether the damage was done pre or post purchase. I must admit I always thoroughly scrutinise the socket on receiving a motherboard just in case as it is much easier to put your case if everything is unopened and just arrived.
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I have the same problem, Channel A is toast. Nothing will work in it, I tried different types of Ram too. They only thing that will work is one ram in DDR3_3 or DDR3_1 or both in 3/1. This is a brand new board I will be RMA'ing it tomorrow and hope to get a board that works...
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Hi
Just make sure that it is the board and not a memory module or some other cause as it is easy to look at the symtoms and jump to the conclusion that it must be the same cause. Don't forget that the memory controller is now on the CPU so it could just as easilly be that causing the problem.
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Hi
Just make sure that it is the board and not a memory module or some other cause as it is easy to look at the symtoms and jump to the conclusion that it must be the same cause. Don't forget that the memory controller is now on the CPU so it could just as easilly be that causing the problem.
Tried different memory modules and same thing, so like you said the memory controller is in the CPU so it's either the mb or the CPU. So with out having another CPU to try how do you test if it is the CPU and not the mb?
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What Dark Mantis had me do was test each stick in slot 1 (3_1, Channel B) for minimum 10 passes of Memtest86 which is at V4.20. I grabbed the file that has the installer and put it onto a USB device and set it as first boot device. I ran each stick anywhere from 11-17 passes with zero errors. Did you inspect the CPU socket to look for any damaged pins? Get a good magnifying glass and flashlight and look them over very carefully. I didn't notice it till I did that for my socket. I was able to run 2 sticks in Chan. B (3_1/3_2 slots) only, it wouldn't post (continuous reset) with sticks in Channel A (3_3/3_4) or as dual channel (3_1/3_3 or 3_2/3_4) which I thought was strange which lead me down this path.
But definitely test the memory, it's going to take you 2 days to do this if you have 4 sticks, it takes ~6-7 hrs to get 10+ passes completed per stick. And inspect the socket for any damaged pins as it's probably 1 of those 3 things with the third being CPU (2500 or 2600?).
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Just an update Dark. My board/package passed their RMA inbound inspection so now have to wait another couple of days to get the item shipped back to me. So perhaps middle of next week I could see the board arrive. If I am lucky it could arrive before wed. of next week. We'll see!
Thanks!
Mike
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Ok, CPU socket looks great and I installed 8GB dual channel and system came right up. I populated the other 2 slots and am running 16GB now @ 1333 speed. I had to do a little massaging on the cooler paste between CPU and fan and now temps are running around mid 30c while in windows right now per CoreTemp.
VID showing 1.2460v fluctuating and bouncing between 3.4 and 3.7Ghz for CPU speed. Memory shows channel A and B 9-9-9-24 as expected and profile not loaded yet. What's next now? Run Prime95 for a bit? I have to figure out why audio isn't working atm (no errors in device manager) and I am still using my old PSU, Corsair will be installed perhaps tomorrow once I get things settled on the system.
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Ok, I loaded teh XMP profile1 for the memory and it is running @ 1600Mhz. Temps on the cores running low to mid 30c range which is good compared to initial check after cooler installed and first boot.
I can hear audio using my front port input for headphone/mic but still getting no audio out of rear connections. I know it isn't my speakers because I have M-Audio Studio monitors BX8a's connected between my 2 desktops (other is using Motu 828Mk II Firewire interface) and this was working previously. I am hoping to god this is NOT the motherboard but what else can it be? If I can get this working (audio) then we can get to tweaking memory/cpu/voltages to get the system running crisper/perkier. Then the PSU replacement.
Again, I have loaded latest realtek drivers from Gigabyte 6.0.1.6449 8/30/2011. The troubleshooter detects no issues, there are no exclamations anywhere in device manager, Azalia is enabled in BIOS and that's what I have connected to the header and can hear/record from top inputs on my case. Other board audio worked fine with no difference in regards to connections (1/8" to male XLR cable). I will try the mic input to see if it records anything. I don't have anything else to connect to the inputs on the rear other than the headset (which I will do right now to see if it works, be right back...)I get nothing with headset plugged into rear speaker out connection (nor mic input)...So start a new thread for audio issue or contact Gigabyte? I think I am going to do the latter for time being.
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I had to do a little massaging on the cooler paste between CPU and fan and now temps are running around mid 30c while in windows right now per CoreTemp.
I am not quite sure that I understyand what you are saying there but it sounds like you reused the TIM that was already on the heatsink. If correct that is not a good idea. You must always apply new fresh paste and only about the same size as a large grain of rice roughly.
As for the audio, I would recommend double checking all your settings as it is almost certainly where the problem lies.
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I cleaned off all the prior paste on CPU and heatsink so it's a new layer of paste and running low to mid 30's w/o load. Prime95 64 bit pushed it to around 82/83 on core 3 (the only one that peaked red).
The audio issue is making me think it's the mobo since it worked on last one and top audio works so I know the cable is still good. I don't know where else to look for no audio AT ALL out of rear ports (and NO MIC input either). The case top in/out ports work fine. I am going to run Prime95 while I get some sleep on it for 4-6hrs and see how things look. Memory is set to Profile1 XMP/1600Mhz speed and no issues on boot or when system is up in Win7.
Any other ideas on no audio OUT on rear panel? Anything in BIOS? I don't think so, Azalia is enabled but that's for the front/top ports and is working.
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If you have something plugged into the front ports it will kill the sound from the rear ports though. There is a setting in the Audio section of Control Panel to stop this from happening.
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I saw that and there was nothing plugged into the front/top panel plugs when anything was plugged into the rear panel. So this seems to be a defective board?
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It could be. Without being able to test it physically it's hard to say for sure. :-\
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I am waiting on a 2nd reply from Gigabyte as well. My speakers are shared between my desktops. I have a Motu FW 828Mk II using 1/4" inputs to the speakers from my DAW desktop and 1/8" to XLR Male cable from other desktop. I know it is not the cable since I can hear audio using the Azalia top connection for speaker/mic input (headset with mic or just the speakers only plugged into top OR rear, not same time and I have it set to do nothing in configuration). So this is seeming to be yet another hardware issue with this particular board....unless you have suggestion(s) that I have not already tried (drivers, trying different inputs in rear to see if I hear anything, etc...next is inspect the board as best I can).
Mike
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Ok. In device manager I see Intel Display Audio and Realtek High Definition Audio.
Intel driver: 6.14.0.3074 (latest per trying to update the driver)
Realtek driver: 6.0.1.6449 (latest one I downloaded from gigabyte site)
No audio out side or rear plugs on back of motherboard. I can't see anything blatantly wrong with it via a visual inspection. Plugs click into place so it isn't a seating issue.
My video card (and had no issues with prior motherboard) is an XFX GTS 250 PCI-e 1GB card (nVidia chipset). Again, this seems that the mobo is defective in that I get no audio. I also noticed I am not hearing any beep code from a cold power up or a reset of the system. I ran prime95 64bit for about 6 hrs or so yesterday with no issues other than seeing CPU cores get to a max of 82c for temps which I figured it would get to (or close to that) as I've run it on my systems in the past as I rebuilt/built them for stability and was overclocking them a tad.
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Hi
Don't forget that the POST beep codes aren't produced by the audio system. They are made by a piezo electric (normally nowadays) buzzer that connects directly to the pins on the motherboard in the area marked F_PANEL. The buzzer isn't supplied by default so unless you have added one yourself then you will get no POST codes at all. You can purchase a buzzer from most PC stores for about a pound. They are polarity concious though so ensure that it is connected the correct way around.
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Ok, beep codes should be heard from pc speaker should it be connected and polarity proper. I need to double-check that. But that has nothing to do with the audio issue at hand. Waiting on gigabyte to respond today but at this point unless you have anything else in your bag of tricks I am going to have to waste more cash and RMA this back to NewEgg (18 days leeway for this return....) for yet another replacement. I know third times supposed to be the charm, but this isn't helping get my system up and rolling along. I want all things working for one, second would be stabilize things a tad so performance doesn't seem a bit wonky (slow loads of webpage on initial IE loading, device manager not snappy when clicking on link, this all has to be related to voltages since we know memory is good and CPU stable after 6+ hrs of Prime95 64 bit sunday and system is NOT overclocked). I am running memory at XMP Profile1 only with ACHI settings for SATA, USB 3.0 Turbo enabled, nothing else off top of my head that could cause any strangeness, just basic stuff to enable features on the mobo. I did change the graphics thing to PCI-e but set it back to PCI but saw no difference on system boot/load/running.
One question. The Azalia in BIOS for onboard sound (I saw you post that in another thread just now). Is that *just* for the top/front audio connections and not related to the rear connections for surround sound/etc? I only use the rear speaker out and possibly Mic input on the rear connections. Azalia is enabled and top connections work with my current speaker cable (1/8" to male XLR) or logitech headset w/mic).
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Ok - update again. I unplugged the speakers and it pops up notification. I plug in headset and mic to respective ports and get notification as well. So it is detecting that activity. I am still stumped by why there is no output. On speak for output device is showing green checkmark and going into that I put all volumes to 100, set balance and still get nothing. The one option to lower volume or Do Nothing is set to the latter, Do Nothing and exclusivity is both checked for that option. Still nothing....anyone have any ideas what may be wrong in BIOS perhaps? A conflict with something seeing I have a GPU installed and this has VGA/DVI/HDMI/D-Port graphical outputs?
Mike
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Hi sorry for the late reply.
The Azalia Codec in the BIOS governs all onboard sound not just the front ports. It must be enabled to have any output at all from the audio system.
The beep codes that are an audio display of the POST report are totally seperate and won't work without a seperate buzzer/speaker connected to the motherboard F_PANEL SPKR connectors.
I would suggest trying to simplify your system and just use a couple of speakers plugged directly into the audio ports on the rear of the motherboard and use them to see if there is any output from the various channels. Use nothing between them and the computer.
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How much more simpler can it get? There is only my pair of studio monitors hooked to the back of the board to the black rear spkr out plug and i've tried the side spkr plug with the same results. Nothing, nada, zip in regards to output. I changed BIOS to disable the onboard video if a PEG is installed and saw that disappear from device manager as expected but no change to sound issue. And again, I am using a pair of BX8a M-Audio powered studio monitors which I have had connected for a long time with no issues running between systems. And the prior motherboards audio output of the rear plug worked.
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Can you just clarify if you have two or four speakers connected to the computer please ?
Also have you got the HD Audio Manager in Control Panel ?
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I have a single pair of M-Audio BX8a Powered Studio Monitors (130w) connected to this system via 1/8" to pair of Male XLR connectors.
I have RealTek High Definition option in control panel at bottom of the sound panel page (along with Dolby)
I did something last night in the configuration that is now showing StereoMix in the RealTek page. I also changed BIOS to reflect no Intel Display thing in sounds section (disable it if PEG installed) vs leaving it on auto and made no difference.
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Control Panel > Sound > Playback, right click and show disabled and disconnected devices.
What options do you have in that list (before and after showing disabled devices) (I have four).
Try changing those (Set as default), right click on all and 'test'.
Has the sound ever worked on this board?
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Control Panel > Sound > Playback, right click and show disabled and disconnected devices.
What options do you have in that list (before and after showing disabled devices) (I have four).
Try changing those (Set as default), right click on all and 'test'.
Has the sound ever worked on this board?
I don't recall seeing a playback option. I did do that last night, Speaker, 2 options not connected at the tmie (not in front of PC so can't give exact names) and other is I think StereoMix which I got showing up last night.
Speakers are default. No output from back, it does recognize plugging/un-plugging into jacks on rear (mic/rear spkr)
I have connected headphones and my speaker cable to the top of case audio green plug and heard speakers play system sounds when testing them. I also heard it on headphones and recorded input via mic to top of case and saw audio out levels to speakers in the control panel for it. I have NOT had any output from rear jacks to either headphones or speakers on this replacement board. Hence I think this one is defective. I've done everything I can think of from my knowledge (which isn't a small amount) and from this forum/tomshardware to no avail. Read through this post or mine over at toms under metalmike posted yesterday under soiund cards thread
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Have you ever tried more than two speakers connected at once ?
I am just wondering if the option isn't showing because it has the auto sense and it knows there are only two speakers connected.
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No. I will plug in headset and mic to top connections and fire it up and see what happens. This won' tbe for another 3-4 hrs so I don't know if you'll be able to respond after that due to time difference. Currently 2pm EST in the US.
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Make sure that you connect them all in the same group of ports ie the rear panel. If it doesn't ask what you have just plugged in remove the speakers and start again.
I will catch yoiu tomorrow ;)
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I put headset and mic to top plugs and left speakers plugged in rear port as normal. On power up and login I heard only output from headphones. Nothing at all from speakers. Here is some more information:
Update:
Plugged in Headset and mic and heard login sounds at login from them ONLY.
Under Sounds->Playback Speakers (Realtek HD Audio) enabled and default device
Realtek HD Audio 2nd Output unchecked (headphoness) at this time (was before and both showed green checkmarks
Realtek Digital Output ready but unchecked
Realtek Digital Output (Optical) ready but unchecked
Recording I see:
Mic in at Front panel (pink)
Stereo Mix (Realtek HD Audio Ready)
Sounds: I hear nothing from rear speakers
Communication:
Do nothing is checked
Sounds -> Recording:
StereoMix default communications device
Properties Enhancement Immediate mode checked, disable all sound effects unchecked, dc cancellation checked
Advanced: 2 channel 16bit 44100hz CD quality (tried all ranges for playback - no output
Allow applications to take exclusive control - checked
Give exclusive mode apps priority - checked
Realtek HD Manager
Left box - Speakers, then HD Audio 2nd Input, then other 2 Digitals, Stereo Mix and Mic in at Front Panel (pink)
Speaker is Blue (no red circle w/line through it)
Speaker configuration - Stereo
Full Range and Surround - unchecked
Device advanced settings:
Make front and rear output devices playback two different audio streams - checked
Recording device:
Separate all input jacks as independent input devices
Information:
Audio driver version: 6.0.1.6449 (latest from Gigabyte site for Realtek)
Directx Version: DirectX 11.0
Audio Controller: HD Audio
Audio Codec: ALC889
Display icon in notification area - checked
What next?
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OMFG...I just tried the FRONT SPEAKER OUT jack on rear panel and it WORKS! Ok, now to figure out what settings (if any) to enable the Rear Speakers out connection to function......half-way there. If it is just a setting to turn on then I'm good. As long as I can get all the outputs to provide sound so I know they work then I will be happy with board and can get back to a) voltage tweaking a tad to smooth out system running @ 1600Mhz for memory and then tackle the PSU (this weekend that will be installed and see if all works ok).
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Quick update to put to rest concerns on new PSU. I just installed it and it working fine! Yay, one down, now this audio issue to go.
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I put headset and mic to top plugs and left speakers plugged in rear port as normal. On power up and login I heard only output from headphones. Nothing at all from speakers.
I am afraid you keep confusing the issue by referring to the ports as the "top plugs". Do you mean by that the front panel ports ? If you are saying that you plugged the headphones into the front ports of the computer then you won't hear anything from speakers plugged into the rear ports as by using the front ones it disables the rear.
You must use the ports at the rear of the computer only for the speakers. Put all 5.1 speakers into the rear ports and it should work fine.
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The ports are on top of my case, a green and pink one for headphone (or speaker 1/8" plug) and microphone.
1) I am NOT connecting to top/front ports at the same time as the rear ports as I already came across that setting to disable rear if front is plugged in.
2) I am NOT using 5.1 speakers, I am using a single pair of Studio Monitors plugged into Rear Spkr (Black) connector on back of the mobo, NO output when plugged into that jack.
3) When monitors plugged into Front Spkr jack (Green) on rear of motherboard it works and I get audio.
If this is all due to 5.1/7.1 and Rear Spkr jacks (Black( won't work UNLESS I plug in a 5.1 configuration then the issue is resolved since Green jack/Front Spkr jack produces audio output. I can live with that if that is the only case. I have no plans to run 5/7.1 off my PCs since I have home system which works fine for me and is in a different room.
If that is the situation then I just need to verify Front Spkr OUT (Green jack) from rear of the motherboard mutes when I plug in a headset/mic into the Front/Top audo jacks (Grreen jack) coming from Azalia connector on the motherboard. Personally I would like that as an option so I can use the monitors as my output and mic in (Pink) from top of the case for when using Ventrilo/TS/Skype stuff.
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The speakers should work fine (and be automatically muted when using the front port for headphones) when plugged into the Green (front speaker port). As you mentioned though you will have to make sure that option is enabled.
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Hi DM,
Thanks for the assist (and others). Now that the system appears to be functional as expected, are there any tweaks in BIOS I should be aware of for any voltage adjusting if needed? So far, so good. I just would like it snappy and it seems reasonable at this time.
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Just make sure that you have the Optimised BIOS Defaults set.
Enable Quickboot.
Disable Full Screen Logo.
Make your C drive the Primary Boot Device.
Disable anything that you are not using like USB3.0, ESATA, etc