Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: thunderboltspro on July 04, 2010, 03:47:12 am
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Specs.
I7 860
seagate 750GB HD
Xfx gt240 graphics card.
No name 350 watt power supply.
Kingston 1G x 2, PC3 8500, slots 1,3
First plugged it in did the power on and off loop thing. Moved the ram around nothing at first but it got out of the loop on and off. No video, turned it back on and off. A few minutes later wouldn't turn back on.
I wanted to test it all before i put it in its real case.
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Well the obvious thing is the crap power supply you are trying to use with the rest of the decent components ::) No wonder it won't work. Get yourself a good quality PSU of at least 600w preferably 80+ certified.
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^^+1 that power supply is not stong enough. As Dark Mantis said get a 600w as the minimum, you should always buy the best power supply you can afford as it is the most vital part of your set up!
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It never ceases to amaze me when people spend a small fortune on CPU, Memory Motherboard, Graphic Card, Hdd's etc., and then scrimp on the PSU.
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Im not skimping on it, i just haven't received it yet.
This is my first build ,I just wanted to test it before i got everything else in and thought 350 would be acquit for a mere posting but i guess not.
So im guessing this motherboard is toast then after it wouldn't start the last time?
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Hi,
No your mobo and all the components will be fine. When you get your proper PSU it should be OK.
I apologise, I didn't mean to offend but you would be amazed at the amount of times people do actually buy the cheapest PSU and are then surprised that they have problems.
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As absic115 says your components should be fine, it's just that the small PSU just wouldn't be man enough for the components you were using. Worst you may have done is toasted the power supply. As a matter of interest what PSU are you getting to replace it?
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Either
Ultra X4 600-Watt Modular Power Supply
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4558897&pagenumber=1&RSort=1&csid=ITD&recordsPerPage=5&body=MAIN#ReviewStart
Or
OCZ ModXStream Pro OCZ600MXSP 600W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341017
Im still debating.
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They are both decent power supplies. Personally I am running a Corsair HX850 and it is absolutely brilliant, it's 80+ certified and warrantied for 7 years. The HX series are very reliable.
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Did a better power supply fix this?
I'm seeing exactly the same with my new GA-H55M-UD2H but using a Corsair 430CX. Powers up for a second then dies, takes a few seconds for the fans to spin down then the process repeats. Just twice it's stayed on but I haven't seen any output on screen (first time with TV plugged in via HDMI, the second an LCD screen via DVI). Every other time it's this same on / off loop.
It's in a Silverstone LC20 case, components are:
i3 530
LG blu ray drive
2 x samsung spinpoint hard drives
2 x Corsair 2GB DDR3 memory sticks
Blackgold BG-3595 TV card
4 case fans
Have tried removing different components but always the same.
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I don't know in this instance as the OP hasn't updated the thread but more often than not it is a power problem. Sometimes it is just down to user error where they haven't plugged in the extra 12v connection otherwise it tends to be the PSU themselves. They are not necessarilly faulty but just not a good design/size for the system. Often it is because they are multi-rail on the 12V side and they do not perform as well as the 12V single rail ones on modern motherboards.
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I'm running the H55M-USB3 board with an i5 and a 550w PSU, and getting the same problem.
I KNOW it's not that the PSU doesn't have enough oomph, unless it is faulty, because it still won't work with just the mobo and the CPU/heatsink in, which should be much less than 550w. All 5 Phase LEDs light up as well, just to let you know.
So, what's my problem?
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I'm running the H55M-USB3 board with an i5 and a 550w PSU, and getting the same problem.
I KNOW it's not that the PSU doesn't have enough oomph, unless it is faulty, because it still won't work with just the mobo and the CPU/heatsink in, which should be much less than 550w. All 5 Phase LEDs light up as well, just to let you know.
So, what's my problem?
Hi
If you give us a little more information we stand a better chance of being able to help you. Can you list your components by make and model please? Especially CPU/memory/PSU/GPU.
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'Kay
Intel i5 650 at 3.2 Ghz
Gigabyte GA-H55M-USB3 (Rev 2, I believe)
OCZ 4gb RAM (2x2gb) in slots 1 and 3
CoolerMaster Extreme Power Plus (ATX) 550w
I'm just trying to run those components, and even then it still has the same outcome. I've shorted CMOS, nothing, so soon I am going to try a confirmed working 320w PSU and hope that that makes a difference.
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I notice that you haven't got a buzzer/speaker attached. That would be a useful extra.
The other thing I would suggest at this point is to remove the CPU and optically check the socket for damaged pins. You cna also check the lands on the underside of the processor and make sure each has a mark from the pin in the centre. If any don't or there are any pins that you are not sure about take a photo or two in macro mode and post them on here for us to check for you.
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Buzzer/speaker was connected, sorry 'bout not mentioning that. Makes no tones.
Turns out I haven't shorted CMOT right. You unplug the power, hold the power button for 15 secs, then short it for how many minutes? Somewhere suggested half an hour, but wouldn't that just drain the battery?
Another thing. My processor or mobo didn't come with a heatsink gel, or whatever is required. When I took the heatsink off, there was a small patch of aluminium powdery stuff on the CPU and heatsink. Is that alright?
Will get high-res pics of mobo and CPU in shortly.
-Chaos
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To reset your cmos you need to remove the battery from the motherboard, just leave it out for a while or while it is removed just bridge the jumper if there is one (cmos). It sounds to me that you will need to re-apply thermal paste for the cpu heatsink. Clean off the old stuff and put some IC Diamond or Arctic silver 5 or even some mx-3. Be careful if you use Arctic silver 5 as it contains metal and too much could sqeeze out and short your cpu or m/b. You can just google how to apply arctic silver paste and you find so good guides.
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What I mean was, there was no heatsink gel to begin with. I thought it was supposed to come with the chip/mobo, but when it didn't, I assumed it didn't need it. Is that a problem?
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Yes it is a problem as the paste acts as a medium to transfer the heat. So you will need to re-apply the paste. Everytime you remove the heatsink from the cpu or what ever, you should always re-apply fresh paste.
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What I mean was, there was no heatsink gel to begin with. I thought it was supposed to come with the chip/mobo, but when it didn't, I assumed it didn't need it. Is that a problem?
No problem as it stands. The original thermal compound was supplied already applied to the heatsink but now that you have removed it you will have to clean off the original and apply fresh.
The clear CMOS button is a "push to break" not "push to make" so it wouldn't affect the battery by draining it at all. However I always suggest removing the battery as it is a failsafe way of making sure that the CMOS is not getting any power. As you say unplug from the wall and then press the power button for a few seconds to drain any residual charge in the PSU before removing the CMOS battery for about ten minutes.
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Cleared CMOS, no luck, same on-off loop. I have a feeling that it is the PSU that is messed up, as it goes through this loop as well.
Just found the good camera, so should have pics up today.
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Ok have a look on the side of your ram and set the bios to the voltage and timings and see if that helps the reboots.
Did you re-apply the thermal paste? It could be your cpu is hitting thermal shut down if you did not do that.
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I have had same trouble -
Setting up HTPC GA-H55M-UD2H board, i3 540 CPU, Corsair TW3X4G1333C9A ram.
Antec SLI 500w power which is absolutely fine, was until recently runnung dual AMD CPU, Supermicro MB, 2 SLI cards - Vanilla PCIe card
Spins fan, light on MB blink then shuts off, cycles through this till I turn off power
BTW there are no beep codes at all.
Tried with and without graphics card, swapped ram to other slots, bettery out etc.
This is the first time in a long build career that I have experienced this sort of trouble. I notice that the ram i am using is not actually on the supported vendors ram list on the Gigabyte Web site for this motherboard but I would be surprised if it was that (who knows)
Its a Saga Now
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I have had same trouble -
Setting up HTPC GA-H55M-UD2H board, i3 540 CPU, Corsair TW3X4G1333C9A ram.
Antec SLI 500w power which is absolutely fine, was until recently runnung dual AMD CPU, Supermicro MB, 2 SLI cards - Vanilla PCIe card
Spins fan, light on MB blink then shuts off, cycles through this till I turn off power
BTW there are no beep codes at all.
Tried with and without graphics card, swapped ram to other slots, bettery out etc.
This is the first time in a long build career that I have experienced this sort of trouble. I notice that the ram i am using is not actually on the supported vendors ram list on the Gigabyte Web site for this motherboard but I would be surprised if it was that (who knows)
Its a Saga Now
Hi and welcome to the Gigabyte Forum.
Well it could be one of two things on the face of it. Either there is a short to earth from the motherboard to the case or you have bent pins on your CPU socket.
Either way the best course of action is to remove the board from the chassis.
Make sure that you observe anti-static precautions.
Lay some cardboard or use the motherboard box that is non-conductive on the worktop and remove the motherboard/CPU/heatsink/fan/buzzer/one stick of memory and PSU from the case and put it on the cardboard.
Add the keyboard and now I know you haven't got any graphics but try and boot.
The system should try and then fail emitting a series of beeps.
Please post what sounds it makes.
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Thanks for the reply.
No short - board on a pad and not in chassis, pulled cpu and checked with optical magnification - absolutely puuurfect pins but there are a few pads on the socket that have no marks at all and actually lots of pads that have the indent from the contact not in the centre but really close to the edge - it apears that the cpu is not seating but there is no obvious reason why - it is absolutely aligned correctly and clipped home with what seems to be a great pressure from the clamping mechanism - still no beeps at all
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If the pads have mis-aligned marks or none at all there is a problem with the socket. Even if the pins are not bent they might not be level. Don't forget we are looking at 3D scenario here. They all have to be the same height to make contact.
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Woo Hoo
All fixed (so far)
Had another look at CPU and socket with binocular specs and after nearly giving up I spotted a pin on the extreme bottom left of the socket that was rotated slightly. I GENTLY and with much trepidation bent it back to where I thought it should be and re-inserted the CPU. Bugger me it bloody worked!! I am really surprised. So gets to bios and now I will load the OS...Keep youse all posed..
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It is suprising how many people find a bent pin or three is the root of their problem. It can be annoying though as often they don't really want to check and will say there aren't any before even looking.
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You are fully right Dark Mantis bro but what is of concern is that there are still pads with no obvious indentations or contact marks on them. If the bent pin was the rerason for no post wtf about the pins, pads that dont seem to be contacting?
Does this mean the CPU is now in Ford Prefect mode? instead of WRX Mode?
Is there likely to be wierd stuff happening?. Is this (bent pin thing) common?
I would be prepared to do the helecopter on the Indooroopilly express train in the morning if it were something I did to create a bent pin.
Took out the guard, placed the cpu on the pins and gently clamped.
Is it possible that it is a manufacturing fault? or is Foxconn perfectomondo..Life is full of mystery
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I would be prepared to do the helecopter on the Indooroopilly express train in the morning if it were something I did to create a bent pin.
You have just got to post a video of that on here ;D
To be serious now the pins not making contact with the CPU could be a big problem and depending on which pins it is as to what may or may not be happening. Obviously some of the pins are not high enough in the socket even if they are straight. This could well have been a manufacturing defect and even though they are not common as such we do have quite a few cases of them. Sometimes I am sure it is user error when they are inserting the CPU or something but sometimes it is just the way they are delivered I am sure.
I think you need to RMA it and explain that you took all reasonable care when installing it.