Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: cloneX on August 03, 2010, 02:46:26 am
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Hi..this is a new build...having problems getting the computer to boot....no post screen & no bios.
The computer booted fine to bios....I installed & updated windows7Ultimate, which include GTX470 drivers & then left it turned on for 2 hours.
When I returned, the computer was inactive & the only indication it was on, was the 'clr_cmos' light on the back panel.
I shut it down, by holding the power button down for 5 seconds
Then when I restarted it, the mobo lit up like the proverbial Christmas tree.....phase LEDs 2 green 2 yellow on...NB phase LEDs 1 green 1 yellow on...
SB voltage LEDs are showing red. There is no power to the optical drives. I removed each component for the same result each time...I also took all but 1 stick ram out & then tried with 2 & 3 sticks installed.
I read several similar posts & found a reference to this problem here which suggests manually setting the voltage from auto to 1ยท5v.
But it doesn't tell me how to get it to boot to bios so I can reset the voltage.
Gigabyte EX58A-UD3R (rev:1) serial # is 10120020801
Intel core i7 930
Corsair H50 Liquid Cooling
Corsair HX-1000W CMPSU
Kingston 12GB DDR3 1333MHZ
Gigabyte NvidiaGTX470
Western Digital VelociRaptor 150GB
This board does not have the electrical noise problems that others are reporting.
Thanks.
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You mentioned that "The computer booted fine to bios". How did you do that? Did you press "DEL" during POST?
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Hi...thanks for your prompt reply.
As mentioned, this is a new build. I assembled the hardware, then started the computer which booted to bios fine...then I installed W7U....then the problems started.The computer will no longer boot to bios or post screen.
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Thanks for clarification.
You mentioned that "There is no power to optical drives". How do you confirm that? Have you measured the +12V and +5V of the 4-pin molex connector?
Is there any case fan in your system? If YES, does it work after you hit the power switch button?
Does the heat sink fan work after you hit the power switch button?
You may try to power up your system without the HDD first and see if you can see the POST text...
You may also consider to check if there is any "bent pin" in the CPU socket...
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"There is no power to optical drives".
The lights don't come on & the eject button doesn't work on either of the optical drives(the W7 disc is still in it)
Is there any case fan in your system? If YES, does it work after you hit the power switch button?
There are 5 case fans.....all spinning & lit up
Does the heat sink fan work after you hit the power switch button?
The radiator cooling fan on the corsair H50 liqiud cpu cooler is spinning
You may try to power up your system without the HDD first and see if you can see the POST text...
I tried this again, both HDDs disconnected(power & mobo) I removed each component for the same result each time...I also tried with 1, 2 & 3 sticks of ram installed in single, dual & tripple channel array.
There are no bent pins on the cpu.
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Firstly I would advise you to remove the serial number from your post.
Secondly it sounds like it could be an overheat problem, did you remember to use the thermal paste on the CPU/H50 pump? Have you checked the the H50 pump is attached properly still(quite a common problem especially with the stock coolers)?
Don't worry about the motherboard lighting up like a christmas tree, that is perfectly normal. Do the lights go out after a while?
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Hi....yes, the thermal paste was pre-applied when I installed it.....when I checked for bent pins I re-applied arctic silver 5.
the H50 cooler is properly installed....I had this computer running for at least a couple of hours during which, I installed Windows7 Ultimate....I then updated through auto-update.....these updates which included drivers for the GTX470, downloaded & installed successfully. There were no flashing or solid LEDs apparent on the mobo throught the hardware or software instalation. I have only allowed it to run for 30 seconds so Ican't tell you if the lights go out eventually or not. I read a post here, that these boards take 15-20 seconds to display the post screen so I gave it 30.
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I recommend that you remove half of your memory( I am guessing that you have filled all the slots) and then test it.
I would say the next stage is to remove all the cables from the motherboard and check to make sure that are making a good connection as you replace them. I would also leave it for longer than 30 seconds as it could be that the BIOS is looking for a floppy drive or similar that should have been disabled.
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I also tried with 1, 2 & 3 sticks of ram installed in single, dual & triple channel array.
thanks.... I will pull it down tomorrow & start again >:(
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Check the cables(both power and data) to the drives also. Make sure that you have installed the 12v power leads to the CPU.
By the way have you made an error in the board number? Did you mean GA-X58A-UD3R?
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Board description is wrong, I did mean the GA-X58A-UD3R (rev:1) :-[
I will check the cables too....thanks.
System drive is connected to sata0 & storage drive to sata1 with a Lian-Li 4 in one blue cable.
Primary optical drive is on sata3 & secondary optical drive is on sata4 with yellow sata cables.....all are new.
I can't find the edit button to remove the serial # from the first post....any ideas please?
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The chance to modify your post goes after (I think) four hours. I am afraid the only moderator who has the power to edit posts is on holiday for a couple of weeks. I took it that it was just a typo for the model number. I am not familiar with the Lian-Li 4 in1 cable but as long as you are happy with it hopefully it should be fine.
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http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19_104&products_id=13461
Its just 4 sata cables of varying length in one sleeve.
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Yes, thanks fore clarifying that but I guessed that was pretty much what you were talking about.
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Have you ever tried the following option: reset the BIOS? You may find how to reset the BIOS in the user manual.
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Have you ever tried the following option: reset the BIOS? You may find how to reset the BIOS in the user manual.
Good point, onemilimeter, but also clear the CMOS first and then load the optimised defaults. It is also detailed in our FAQ section:
http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2286.0.html
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G'day Folks......thanks for the suggestions.
I tried the clear cmos button on the back panel(held in for 10 seconds with the power off) same result! Then removed the cmos battery overnight...same result!
There is no indication that the H50 pump is operating(surely Corsair can add an LED to inform us if the pump is on/off) but the radiator cooling fan is functional
so I have replaced the Corsair H50 liquid cpu cooler with the stock Intel socket 1366 heatsink.....same result!
I have disconnected the system drive.....WD velociraptor, & connected the 2TB storage drive as master on sata0 using different cables......same result!
I have tried all these steps with 3 sticks of ram in triple channel array.....6GB instead of 12GB.
Thanks one milimeter but there is nothing in the manual or on Gigabytes web site that suggests how to accomplish resetting the bios....I always thought that clearing cmos resets the bios so if theres another way could somebody please give me a clue.
Thanks.
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Thanks one milimeter but there is nothing in the manual or on Gigabytes web site that suggests how to accomplish resetting the bios....I always thought that clearing cmos resets the bios so if theres another way could somebody please give me a clue.
I think you've done correctly to reset the BIOS.
By the way, do you think there is any chance that the graphic card or the monitor has problem?
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Definately not the monitor.....I have tried it on CRT & LCD ......I will try a different video card.....will try an nvidia GTX275 later today. I know this one works 'cause I'm using it now:).....will also try a different PCIe slot with that one.
Thanks
OK, I have changed the GPU to the GTX275...when I powered on. there was a momentary flash of the case fan LEDs then nothing.
Then I pulled it all down to a bare case & started again...nothing under the mobo causing shorts.
I changed the PSU to a Corsair HX750W Professional Series & left everything disconnected except case & CPU fans.
I still have the phase LEDs on...2 solid yellow then 2 solid green. The NB phase LEDs are solid yellow green yellow green...all as before.
SB voltage LEDs are not on......previously, I had one solid red here.
At what point of the trouble shooting process would you decide that the mobo is faulty?.....I can see nothing else that it could be.
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I would have to concur that the motherboard is indeed the problem here from all the tests that you have carried out. RMA it and get a decent one asap. ;)
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Hi cloneX...
You've tried all the possible troubleshooting. RMA may be your next option I think. You may consider to RMA the Rev 1.0 for Rev 2.0. Or, you may request for a newer batch than your current board (serial#1012XXXXXXX), which is an relatively older batch of the UD3R. I bought an UD3R in May 2010 and the batch number is "1015". Then, Gigabyte collected the UD3R and sent another UD3R with batch number "1022" in July 2010.
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:( Sounds like my first UD3R (a Rev 1).
It ran Windows 7 for about 3 weeks then suddenly zilch. As soon as the Gigabyte splash screen was displayed, the damn thing continually rebooted. RMA'd back to Overclockers UK who confirmed the board was knackered, and GB UK replaced it with a Rev 2, which is working fine.
BTW, once you've stripped it down, have a look at the CPU pads. On mine I had around 20 or so pads that had failed to make contact with the socket pins. I never got confirmation from Gigabyte UK that insufficient pad contact was the root cause of my board failure, but I can't see how a board can function fully if not all 1366 socket pins are making contact, particularly if the pins concerned include ones for VCC/VSS power delivery. Whether there is a general X58 socket quality control issue (similar to that reported on Anandtech for the P55 at http://www.anandtech.com/show/2859 (http://www.anandtech.com/show/2859)) is anyones guess.
regards
Peter
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Very interesting Peter, we have had quite a few motherboards with bent pins and the such recently, I think there may well be a problem of quality control. We even had one case, onemilimeter's board was returned from Gigabyte UK Technical Suport with the socket protector forced on the wrong way round. It had done some damage to the protector mainly but also a couple of pins. It does make you wonder what monkeys they are employing in the Technical Department. ??? It really shouldn't be necessary for the consumer to have to check the pins in the socket before installation of the CPU.
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BTW, once you've stripped it down, have a look at the CPU pads. On mine I had around 20 or so pads that had failed to make contact with the socket pins. I never got confirmation from Gigabyte UK that insufficient pad contact was the root cause of my board failure, but I can't see how a board can function fully if not all 1366 socket pins are making contact, particularly if the pins concerned include ones for VCC/VSS power delivery. Whether there is a general X58 socket quality control issue (similar to that reported on Anandtech for the P55 at http://www.anandtech.com/show/2859 (http://www.anandtech.com/show/2859)) is anyones guess.
regards
Peter
In my opinion, the X58 socket is not a good solution. Intel is clever in the sense that it pushes the possibility of having "bent pins" (previously the pins are on the CPU) to motherboard manufacturer.
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There's one more thing you could try. I found a motherboard is the easiest to diagnose with a tester card like this http://www.elstonsystems.com/prod/pc_post_diagnostic_card.html
It gives you a HEX number and a manual that comes with the card tells you where the board stopped. You can get one on ebay for like 5 poundish. Very cheap and saves a lot of headaches specially if you build the computers yourself.
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you are right that sometimes it does make a difference to know exactly where the boot process stops. A lot of the higher end boards feature these displays already built in.