Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: shimon on January 01, 2011, 09:16:14 pm
-
Hello, I am unsure if this is a motherboard problem. I was installing a usb header. When I try to power it up, there is a flash of power (all indicator lights on the motherboard turn on), then turns off. I took out the bios battery, waited for an hour then put the battery back in. The lights all come back up for a few seconds, then I think before it starts to post it shuts off. Subsequent presses will make the lights flash, but everything goes out again.
I removed everything including the cpu now, and the only things connected to the motherboard is the two power cables. I wanted to see if the motherboard will at least stay on and give me a error message, but it will do the same thing. Removing the battery, waiting for an hour then putting the battery back in and powering it on will have all the motherboard indicator lights come back on for a few seconds before shutting off. Again subsequent presses will make the lights flash, but everything goes out again.
I am just wondering if the motherboard should stay on and give an error even though there is no cpu. Just trying to figure out if it's the cpu or the motherboard, I wish I had an extra cpu or motherboard, but that's quite a chunk of money just to troubleshoot. Any help is appreciated!
i7 950
Corsair 850tx
patriot sector 7 1600
nvidia gtx 295
gigabyte x58a-ud5
-
Hi and welcome to the Gigabyte Forum.
The lights on the motherboard should all light up to start with and then go out as the POST progresses.
The motherboard won't post or anything without the CPU installed. However while you have it out I would suggest checking the CPU socket for bent pins.
Very carefully remove the heatsink and fan. Probably a slight twisting motion is best to release the two as the thermal paste can act like a glue.
Once off remove the CPU taking extreme care both physically and electrically(static) and place somewhere safe.
Make sure that the lighting is very good and even.
Now scrutinise the socket for any pins that are out of alignment, even slightly.
If in any doubt whatsoever take a couple of macro (close up) photos of the socket and post them on here for us to check.
Also look at the bottom of the CPU at the lands (little copper circles) and make sure that there is a mark in each somewhere near the centre.
If there are any missing marks or any of the pins are obviously bent then that is your problem.
-
I'm sorry, I'm not too good at taking pictures, I hope that this will help. I tried to take a picture of the cpu, but the flash makes it too bright.
http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad100/RyokoKyutto/forum%20giga-byte%20co%20uk/cpusocket.jpg
http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad100/RyokoKyutto/forum%20giga-byte%20co%20uk/socket2.jpg
http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad100/RyokoKyutto/forum%20giga-byte%20co%20uk/socket3.jpg
Edit:
Here is the cpu itself,
http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad100/RyokoKyutto/forum%20giga-byte%20co%20uk/cpucopperthings.jpg
Also, should the motherboard shut off by itself, whether or not the cpu was in there?
-
Reinstalled the motherboard with the cpu and the heatsink and one stick of ram - I don't think you need anything else to at least get an error code off the motherboard?
I'm sure it's the motherboard, but if the motherboard isn't supposed to turn off when it posts when a cpu is in there, then it should definitely be the motherboard?
Now if the motherboard does supposed to turn off when it first posts and doesn't sense a cpu, then it might be the cpu?
I didn't see anything like bent pins or no contact with the cpu... but since not touching the cpu and installing the usb headers on there - I don't think any of the pins move when installing a usb header?
-
CPU Socket looks ok to me.
Did the board work before at all? Just checking, not sure since you mention installing a USB Device started all this.
The board has to have a CPU installed to start, and it must have at least one stick of memory in a white slot (3 sticks must go in all 3 white slots)
The 24 pin and 8 pin ATX/EPS power cable must also be connect to the board.
Be 100% Sure you are connecting the USB cable to USB Port, not Firewire port.
Does it start with no hard drives, and no USB cables connected?
Have you tested it outside of the case and off the motherboard tray on a wooden table or cardboard box yet, if not please do to ensure you do not have a short somewhere. Do this test with only CPU and heatsink, one stick of memory, and your graphics card - NOTHING else connected.
-
Ah, yes. The board was working fine before this. I installed it into the USB2 and USB3 headers then turned it on. It turned on, but then shut itself off before it got to post. I removed the usb header, and then pushing the power button, it would have that all the lights blink on then off.
Only if I take the button battery out and totally remove power (power switch from powersupply), then switch the power back on it will light up for around 5 seconds and then shut off. Subsequent presses will have it blink on then off until I do the previous step.
The firewire port I think has that brown safety cap. I only use the ones labeled usb2 and usb3.
I have tried it, but still got the same results unfortunately.
The picture does not show - I have it on top of a cardboard box, it was the cardboard box that had the motherboard inside. (Edit: I also had the power connected to the video card when I tested it as well.
http://i925.photobucket.com/albums/ad100/RyokoKyutto/forum%20giga-byte%20co%20uk/setup.jpg
-
Ahh sorry to hear it worked before but not now.
Maybe it got fried with bad USB wiring? Can you test that USB wiring on another board, if you are up to it that is?
You may want to try clearing the CMOS for an extended period, that may help! Unplug the PSU from the wall, or remove all power cables from the board, and then remove the motherboard battery. Then press and hold the case or board power button for one minute to drain all power on the board.
Let it sit like this overnight, and then put it all back together the next day and see if it will start then or not.
-
Ah, unfortunately I'm not rich enough to take the risk. :-\
I went ahead and unplugged the power from the wall, leaving everything connected to the motherboard. I pressed the power button on the motherboard for over a minute and left the cmos battery out. Hopefully it'll work. I just wish that there was a way to test to see if it's the motherboard that doesn't work, or the cpu. I'll test it out when I wake up tomarrow.
If the motherboard stayed on and gave me an error code (I think maybe it might be error code 18 since it has to do with the cpu)? then I would've suspected the cpu.
18 error says "Detect CPU information including brand, SMI type and CPU level". Not too sure but was hoping for any error code. Or at least having the motherboard stay on telling me any error..
This is the usb header that I purchased from amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-ULT40299-4-PORT-USB-Bracket/dp/B001SH2BDI/ref=pd_cp_e_1
Thank you for your help, I really do appreciate it! I just wish that maybe I didn't buy a USB bracket and instead got a usb hub now.
-
Hopefully it will work in the morning!
No error beep from speaker then either I take it?
I do see in the review comments that they have the pinouts incorrect on the header, so that may be what caused the problem and possibly fried the board?
Even if your mobo supports USB 2.0, the pinouts may not be correct. The plug on this has pin 9 as key (no pin) and pin 10 is vacant
Not sure what would happen if you use that in a normal situation, but it doesn't sound good to me because it may caused users to connect it incorrectly because it may make users think the 5V connection pin 1 is supposed to be pin 9.
So that may be what happened here?
-
No that doesn't sound too healthy to me. It could well be what has caused the problem in the first place. I am suprised that they are still selling them like that if that is correct. :-\
-
Ah, I tried to turn it on this morning, but it seems to not have worked, still exhibiting the same problems unfortunately.
That's the only thing that I had different in the computer, it was working before that. As the for the USB bracket, I am unsure how it is wired - the top and bottom wires have red, white, green and black. What I'm assuming to be pin 9 is no hole in there, and pin 10 there is no wire going to it.
I'm just still worrying if it might be a cpu problem instead of a motherboard problem - would a normally working motherboard exhibit this sort of problem (automatically shutting down) if it can't detect a cpu if the cpu might be the one that's fried from the usb headers, or is that more unlikely?
-
I woiuld have thought it less likely to have damaged the CPU if it was a problem with the USB2.0 connections as they go to the Southbridge. I am taking it that you haven't connected any of them this time?
Have you installed a buzzer to hear if there are any POST beeps?
As to whether this type of symptom would show with a damaged CPU it is hard to say as it depends on what part of it was damaged, I suppose.
-
Yes, I haven't connected any usb ports on the motherboard, ever since I couldn't turn it on. Should I try to put something in there to see if there is power coming from the internal usb port supplied from the motherboard when I turn it on?
Ah, I don't have a speaker for the speaker header on the motherboard. That one I'm not too sure what it's called, tried to search for front panel computer speaker, but it gives me something different.
I also sent an RMA - I never done one before and after looking searching for people's warranty service experience with gigabyte, there seems to be some people with bad experiences... hopefully my first experience with gigabyte's warranty service will be good.
Again thank you for all your help with this!
-
The best thing to get for a speaker is a little piezo electric device that costs a matter of pence from any computer parts shop.
So have you still got the motherboard or has it gone now?
If you still have it connected up try one of the motherboard USB ports on the rear panel with a known good device. If you are testing it out of the Windows environment you will need to enable the Legacy USB Devices (or similar) in the BIOS first.
-
Hm, I'll probably look up a couple of computer parts shops around here. But for the motherboard to beep, it would need to be on, like would it beep if it shuts itself off?
I still have the motherboard - since it happened during the new years, I haven't gotten any notification of sending it yet.
The only problem I can't even get into the BIOS since it shuts it self off when I think it starts to post (can't get into bios). It won't even show the startup screen when it counts memory. Probably when I think about it, the usb doesn't power up until it starts to post?
-
But for the motherboard to beep, it would need to be on, like would it beep if it shuts itself off?
The motherboard should beep if there is a fault when it comes across it. That is the whole idea to give you an indication of the problem (hopefully).
-
I just got a piezo electric speaker and when I plugged it in the motherboard - there was no beep or sounds from it when turned on, and it shut itself off...
I verified that the piezo electric speaker works by plugging it into my old computer and it beeped once.
-
OK then but do make sure that it is plugged in the correct way round. Unlike a speaker it is polarity concious.
I would say that you have damaged your motherboard most likely from the USB problem. I would suggest RMAing it.
-
I just tested the device both ways, no sounds comes from it. Also tried a different psu - corsair hx620, but that didn't make a difference.
I submitted an RMA on New Years, hopefully they'll respond to me by the end of this week...
-
If you purchased the motherboard and CPU from the same retailer I would see if you can return both for testing at the same time.
-
Unfortunately newegg only gives you 30 days, which is past unfortunately. :'( They won't help me, and referred me to gigabyte.
The bad thing is that since I'm in the US, I heard that the Gigabyte US RMA branch has poor service, but this is my first time rmaing, so I'll reserve my opinion until I try them out. I tried to see if they had a forum, but it looks like you're forced to join their club before you can get to their forum... I wish we had the uk guys instead.
The RMA submitted said that it would be two business days before I get a reply, but this is the third business day, going into the fourth. If they at least gave me an update or respond saying it'll be a week or even two weeks before they can get to me, I would be fine. I'm just worried with no communication. :(
-
Gigabyte US RMA is great, not sure what you've heard or how old it was, but they are fairly fast for sure!
It should take 14-21 days for you to get a board back in your hands, depending on how busy they are, what they fix on the board, and where you live.
You can call them directly if you want, if they don't reply to your email soon. Many of the staff is out of the offices right now for vacations due to the new year, and others are gone due to CES, so that may be why it's taking a while to reply to your email.
Here is the US office phone number in CA
1-626-854-9338
The official US Gigabyte forum is here, but it does sound like you need to RMA to me.
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/
-
Ah, okay makes sense. I saw that CES ends on the 9th, should I expect a reply around the 12th or a bit later?
Thank you for the insight, forgot that people are still taking vacations and didn't know anything about this CES thing. :)
-
Hard to say, maybe they will get back to you before the end of this week, if not I'd say early next.
Ya, many of the support and sales staff are busy with CES related stuff, or on vacation. I know my contacts have been super busy the past 2 weeks leading up the CES even.
-
Yay, I got a notification in the email that it's being shipped back to my home. But in the email I didn't see any notes if the motherboard was replaced, fixed, or anything else. I created a question to ask more details if possible, but I'm assuming that I'll probably need to wait till Monday to receive a response. I'm always curious to know stuff about that.
Thank you again for all the help everyone! :)
-
Yes I agree. It should be company policy to send out a repair account with all boards that have been returned so that the owner can see exactly what has been done/or not to the merchandise.
-
I got it back, I went ahead put it back together without the usb bracket. I turned it on and I was too excited that didn't change anything on there. So I received a OS not found error. I went ahead and held the power button to turn it off, but now I when I turn it back on again I am receiving bios error codes C1 -> C3 -> 18 then repeats. I don't think turning it off that way would kill the cpu, so I took out and examined the pins, and reset the cpu in it's socket, but still am receiving the same sequence of codes. The bad part is that the piezo electric speaker only half chirps and then when it hits the error 18, it does not make any sound. It only makes a half chirp when it goes back to C1.
Right now I am doing the process of turning the power off from the power supply, removed the button battery, pressed the power button for over a minute just in case. I'll leave it overnight, but I'm kind of sad right now. :( Is it a blown cpu now?
-
Hi
No I would doubt it very much from what you have said happened. You have done the right thing in clearing the CMOS and don't forget to load the Optimised BIOS Defaults as well as change any other settings you need to before you do anything else.
-
:( I am so sad. It unfortunately won't get past post and still receiving the error code C1 -> C3 -> 18 then repeats the sequence again... I'm not sure what to try when I get this sequence now.
I looked at the pins pretty carefully, but I'm sure that the pins should be fine if it gotten past post once before?
-
Another thing to check is that it isn't the processor going into a thermal shutdown mode through overheating. Make sure that the heatsink is firmly fixed all round and the fan is running. What heatsink/fan have you got?
-
I have a prolimatech megahalems with two fans on both sides. I tightened the screws as much as I could. The tech said that I can submit another RMA request, I'll try it again, although I was hoping that maybe I was doing something wrong instead of having to RMA it again... the shipping is killing me. :(
-
The Promlitech Megahalems is some massive heatsink and weighs a ton! The problem often with these big coolers is that when they are heavy on the board and if they are tightened down to much can distort the board underneath causing fractures of the internal tracks and bad contacts. So it is possible by trying to do the right thing and make sure it is tightened down that you have made the problem worse. :'(
-
I just bought the ud3r motherboard - I'll try another RMA, but at least now I know what a real beep sounds like from one of these i7 boards.
The UD5 board, it didn't make a loud beep when it first starts, it sounds like a soft click. Is that actually normal for that board or is it supposed to make a loud beep like the ud3r board?
Wait, I just heard that little click from the ud3r one when I rebooted. Is it supposed to do a click when it's soft booted, and when it's fully off, and turning on, it'll make that loud beep?
-
The little click as you put it is nothing to be concerned about as I am sure it is just one of the peripherals restarting.
The beep should be much the same on most boards. There should be a single beep to show POST has completed successfully.
-
Ah, okay. At least now I know what to listen for. I finally got the RMA approved today - although I'm definitely feeling that I'm just throwing more money away now, buying a new gigabyte motherboard for $210 dollars, and another $16 dollar shipping fee.
It kind of sucks that I need to spend another 16 dollars to ship it, especially when it's a faulty motherboard (And definitely has a very used look to it too). :-[ I don't really know what else I can do to test the motherboard - the responses from the tech seem to imply that it probably isn't the motherboard and if I'm really, really sure that it's the motherboard that I can go through with the RMA.
The UD3r is still working great though, no complaints about that - just wish that my more expensive motherboard worked so I could've saved 210 dollars. :-[