Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: WarYur on April 16, 2011, 03:48:45 am
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Hey, Well I was all ready to throw everything together tonight and got stopped up in a hurry. I am wondering now if anyone else has had any experience with this motherboard and Corsairs H70 CPU cooler. I started by installing or trying to install the backplate of the cooler on back of the board and got three of the mounting inserts in and when it came to the fourth one it didn't line up. Oops... Well, without forcing it which I could probably have done by stretching it a bit as it is made of plastic I thought I would just go on to the retention ring on the front and began to screw the first screw into one of the mounting inserts when I looked a bit closer and it appeared that the screw across from me on the top wasn't lining up right either. Ok, so now i got out my old trusty measuring tape and when I measured the space between the holes on the board I got 2 & 15/16th from center to center and that was the same all the way around. Then I picked up the retention ring and measured from one screw to the other still trying to center it and got 3 & 1/8th inches. Now it says right on the initial Corsair H70 product page; "Socket Support: AMD AM2, AMD AM3, Intel LGA 1155, Intel LGA 1156, Intel LGA 1366, Intel LGA 775". http://www.corsair.com/cooling/hydro-series.html (http://www.corsair.com/cooling/hydro-series.html) (at the bottom but all of the CPU coolers on that page say for the socket 1155 as well).
SO, all that said, has anyone here had this same trouble with the Corsair H70 CPU cooler and if you did was there anything that you could do about it? I think I already know the answer to this but i needed to check before I send this H70 packing and try and find something that will fit on there in the way of a closed loop water cooler for the CPU. The only thing I have on hand is a Koolance water block for my socket 775 motherboard but I really wasn't up for spending any more money and wanted to separate my GTX SC 480 graphics cards (2 of them in SLI) from the CPu becasue that was where I was with my socket 775 build where the motherboard was getting too hot with the CPU and those 2 graphics cards on the same loop and when I had the system torn apart I said the heck with it and ordered up the ingredients for the Sandy Bridge build. I thought to just use the graphics cards I had though but when they are overclocked they run really hot so they really should be on their own loop. I know that there are other closed loop water cooling systems for the CPU but I have not done any research n them at all and asI said I really didn't want (or need) to spend any more money. I don't know what else I can do at this point though and have already posted a few times on the Corsair forum which seems to be being ignored by the mods and admins which I can understand if they never actually tried the H70 on this particular Gigabyte board. I would have called them too but a friend came by to borrow something and I got distracted and when I thought to call again it was after closing hours. SO, sorry for the book here but again has anyone had any experience with that Corsair H70 CPU cooler and would anyone know of any other closed loop system that might work better? Thanks! I was so hoping to have this build done tonight but it just ain't happen'in.
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Waryur,
Your H70 should mount no problem whatsoever on your 1155 mobo. The screws in the ring are all adustable to meet the various dimensions of the various mobo's.
Dark Mantis would be the person to talk to about a simple yet effective closed loop. Frozen CPU has an excellent choice.
I cannot and will not recommend Corsair's H70. I had one on my new rig and it began to leak [see photo please].
For the investment you made, perhaps it would be better to invest in a simple closed loop for around $170 [with liquid]. DM can show it to you and he should be here shortly.
If I remember correctly, here is the link:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit-_HOT.html?tl=g30c83s137
Hope this helps!
Soar
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Waryur,
Your H70 should mount no problem whatsoever on your 1155 mobo. The screws in the ring are all adustable to meet the various dimensions of the various mobo's.
Dark Mantis would be the person to talk to about a simple yet effective closed loop. Frozen CPU has an excellent choice.
I cannot and will not recommend Corsair's H70. I had one on my new rig and it began to leak [see photo please].
For the investment you made, perhaps it would be better to invest in a simple closed loop for around $170 [with liquid]. DM can show it to you and he should be here shortly.
If I remember correctly, here is the link:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12222/ex-wat-162/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS360_Universal_CPU_Triple_Radiator_Water_Cooling_Kit-_HOT.html?tl=g30c83s137
Hope this helps!
Soar
Thanks Soar, So this is a three fan rad for just the CPU? Whoa! I have the Koolance Exos (can't remember exactly which version I have but it's
like a year old or so) external 3 fan rad/pump/res assembly that I was running a loop through both graphics cards and the CPU on a socket 775
motherboard with everything overclocked but the board started getting too hot with those GTX 480's in the loop. You know I just had another look
at the retention ring and it looks like I had the little goodies that the screws go into that goes into the retention ring turned the wrong way. LOL,
as the kids say, "My bad". Must be my old age setting in... I'm not so sure about the screws on the retention ring being adjustable though but the
inserts that go into the backplate are adjustable. There are three holes per corner to play with but the front retention ring appears to be pretty
static but you do need to have them in the right way. I do still have a lot to learn about what is best in the way of water cooling parts though so
anything I learn is all good.
I see what you mean about the H70 though. I was looking at all the reviews on newegg and there are some scary stories on there about leaking
and all sorts of stuff going wrong with them but there are also a lot of good reviews too. I think that I should probably take your advice though
and go for something else. I appreciate your stopping by and I will take anything I can get in the way of learning about water cooling. My last rig
was also my first attempt at it. Also sorry about the way I was posting there. On the Corsair forums I was told to not post this way but I was
doing it this way on the forum before, just forgot. Anyway thanks for making me take a closer look at what I had going on.
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WarYur,
No problem at all. You are most welcome here and I know people like DM and Absic will be able to help you much more than I!
Nearly all the reviews that I read on Corsair's H70 were good...very good...and that is why I purchased it. It is possible I received a broken or faulty unit. For me, I'd rather not risk damaging my components should another unit leak on me, so I decided against it.
I did notice some of the newer reviews at Frozen CPU give the RASA 750 some really poor comments!!! Sorry, I did not see that one month ago.
To be 100% honest with you, I know nearly nothing about water cooling compared to DM and others out here. So please do not take my advice as written in unalterable stone! ::)
Yes, you are right, it is the back plate screws that are adjustable according to 3 slots, and not the ring...my bad too.
WarYur, I know you will be able to work this out and find the best solution that fits your unique needs.
Please let us know how it all turned out after finding a solution that is best for you!
Hey Dark Mantis....Helpppppppp! ;D
Thanks,
Soar
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Hi and welcome,
I see that Soar has been helping you out already. Personally I wouldnn't buy the Corsair H70 as I prefer to make up my own system customised to how I want it. I don't feel that the H70 is dangerous as with a bit of forethought and a few cable ties or clamps the possibility of leakage is removed. But it is your choice.
The thing is there is always the play off between what is optimum for your system and how much you have to spend on it. I like to take the longer term approach and try to purchase components that will be ok for now and the future if I decide to upgrade. The ready made kit that Soar linked to for you is a very good design for someone with an aim to cool one CPU and one GPU. However I feel that it really could do with a larger radiator if you are planning to run two GPUs overclocked as well as the CPU. Of course you could always add another rad to it later if it is necessary. Apart from that it sems a well thought out and priced kit.
As I mentioned before it all boils down to your budget really.
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I have just gone through the reviews on another site I post on xtremesystems and found a review of the same kit as previously posted apart from it only incorporates a dual 120mm radiator. In someways this would be better for you as you could then get a second 240 rad which would be plenty for your total cooling requirements.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=268422
Hope that you find this helpful.
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I have just gone through the reviews on another site I post on xtremesystems and found a review of the same kit as previously posted apart from it only incorporates a dual 120mm radiator. In someways this would be better for you as you could then get a second 240 rad which would be plenty for your total cooling requirements.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=268422
Hope that you find this helpful.
Very! Helpful that is... I do have the H70 in hand though and now that I have finally got my head together with it and actually read the directions ::)
I guess I'll have to go with it until such time that it proves to not work as well as I want it to then it will probably go the eBay way. I've had quite
a time since first starting to water cool back in 2008 but it's a long story and it's late over here. Or should I say early? LOL... The end of the
story is that the Striker II Extreme I was using was overheating because of the 2 overclocked GTX 480's mainly but I had a Bitspower after
market NB/SB water block on the board since the water block that came stock on the board began deteriorating and screwed a lot of water
cooling equipment up in the process. I had ordered the H70 for that rig for an Intel QX9650 so that I wouldn't have so much running on the same
loop. While I was tearing things down and after I had already ordered the H70 I decided since the Sandy Bridge motherboards were coming back
out finally I said the heck with it and bought what I would need for the socket 1155 set up and here I am. I have an older Lian Li Full Tower
that I will be putting some of the older parts in with that Asus board and two 9800GTX SSC's in SLI for a side system but at the moment there is
no hurry because I went nuts over Christmas and awarded myself a sweet little gaming laptop. That's what I am on right now and it is a Toshiba
Qosmio X505-896 which is fairly decent for playing games on but I am far more interested in getting the socket 1155 set up going and trying to
overclock the daylights out of that 2600k. That is yet another thing that I am still learning about but hey, you really can teach an old dog new
tricks. ;D I do also have a Koolance Exos 2.5 external 3 fan rad/res/pump assembly all in one now but even that wasn't working like Koolance
said it would and cooling everything I had in one loop and as I said earlier that is why I had already ordered the H70. LOL, I know you guys
really didn't need to know all that but I guess all that to say that I didn't especially order the H70 for this build and since I have it I might as
well try it out for a while.
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Yes I would agree. Run the H70 for now seeing as you already have it, just make sure you add a couple of cable ties or clamps around the hose ends to make sure they stay secure.
You mentioned your old water cooling setup going t1ts up. Were the supplied cooling blocks on the board made of aluminium or something other than copper ? Because if that was the case then I am not surprised that you had problems as galvanic corrosion would have taken place and destroyed the less noble metal. make sure thta you give the other cooling blocks and rads a good flush out. I usually use vinegar and then a final rinse with distilled water.
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Yes I would agree. Run the H70 for now seeing as you already have it, just make sure you add a couple of cable ties or clamps around the hose ends to make sure they stay secure.
You mentioned your old water cooling setup going t1ts up. Were the supplied cooling blocks on the board made of aluminium or something other than copper ? Because if that was the case then I am not surprised that you had problems as galvanic corrosion would have taken place and destroyed the less noble metal. make sure thta you give the other cooling blocks and rads a good flush out. I usually use vinegar and then a final rinse with distilled water.
Yes, I believe they must have been. It was some of Koolances earlier offerings. ATM I can't remember what the water block that came with the motherboard was made of but that is what started it all. So vinegar huh, I should have thought of that I guess. Thanks though becasue I probably should clean out the Koolance Exos 2.5 external that I have here. In the future though I am going to get the parts either separately or in something such as you guys have mentioned here. That is a lot of stuff for the money especially given what i have had to shell out of all the Koolance fittings and the like. It seems like I have been on the Koolance testing team for too long. What I mean by that is that I have had some of my other components that are irreplaceable now get ruined because they weren't using the right "O" rings in their L shaped swivel nozzles. So, what is the general consensus on coolant hose to use? I have been using Feser hose and then it is 1/2 inch OD and 3/8th ID which with a big case like the Corsair 800D is a little smallish looking but that is what I have on hand along with all the quick disconnects and nozzles and the like. Anyway, thanks for the input, I need all the help I can get!
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I have the H70 on the same MB. The plastic back mounting bracket needs to be tilted slightly for the holes to line up. There are three holes in each corner of the bracket. None lined up if I kept the bracket aligned with the MB. I had to rotate it about 3° to make all 4 holes line up.
I was also worried about the clearance of the block to the row of electronics between the MOSFET and the 1155 socket, but it seems to mount just fine (can't see light though).
One thing to make sure of is that the block is lower than the radiator. I'm a bit confused as to which way the radiator hoses should be orianted though. I have mine at the bottom, but I've seen pictures of them at the top?
You can also do better than the stock fans from Corsair.
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So, what is the general consensus on coolant hose to use? I have been using Feser hose and then it is 1/2 inch OD and 3/8th ID which with a big case like the Corsair 800D is a little smallish looking but that is what I have on hand along with all the quick disconnects and nozzles and the like.
Then the ideal size of hose for you is the 10mm ID 16mm OD. This is a bit more meaty and looks larger with a bettter bend radius because of the thicker walls but still fits the 10mm barbs. Manufacturer wise the best if you want clear or black is Tygon 3603, if you want coloured use Thermochill.
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I have the H70 on the same MB. The plastic back mounting bracket needs to be tilted slightly for the holes to line up. There are three holes in each corner of the bracket. None lined up if I kept the bracket aligned with the MB. I had to rotate it about 3° to make all 4 holes line up.
I was also worried about the clearance of the block to the row of electronics between the MOSFET and the 1155 socket, but it seems to mount just fine (can't see light though).
One thing to make sure of is that the block is lower than the radiator. I'm a bit confused as to which way the radiator hoses should be orianted though. I have mine at the bottom, but I've seen pictures of them at the top?
You can also do better than the stock fans from Corsair.
Hey thanks man. That backplate was driving me nuts. I finally have it though and yes, I am not at all sure which way those hoses should be
oriented for optimal cooling but I wouldn't think that it matters. I did figure out that the block needed to be lower than the rad though. All a
matter of physics, yes? I was thinking about those fans. What brand of fans did you decide on? I should ask that question of everyone here too
though. It seems any time I have asked that that everyone has a different choice. I guess if I am going to do it the right way and for the best
looks which truthfully hasn't really been my main goal in building a computer but I want this one to look really cool when I am done too. There is
just no way around it. I am going to have to order some more parts. Especially after reading what Dark Mantis said below there. I had thought of
the larger tubing like he has mentioned but was just going to use what i had on hand but now I see the error of my ways. LOL... Anyway, thanks
again for your input!
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You are very welcome.
As for fans it depends on your priorities. If you want low noise then the Scythe Gentle Typhoons are the ones to go for but they don't make illuminated versions. I would say either Phobya or Ximatek for LED fans and still efficient but quiet.
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So, what is the general consensus on coolant hose to use? I have been using Feser hose and then it is 1/2 inch OD and 3/8th ID which with a big case like the Corsair 800D is a little smallish looking but that is what I have on hand along with all the quick disconnects and nozzles and the like.
Then the ideal size of hose for you is the 10mm ID 16mm OD. This is a bit more meaty and looks larger with a bettter bend radius because of the thicker walls but still fits the 10mm barbs. Manufacturer wise the best if you want clear or black is Tygon 3603, if you want coloured use Thermochill.
Thanks! LOL, I'll have to break out my iPhone to see what that works out to be in inches though. I think I missed that class... The tubing I have was clear but was UV reactive and then I was using Feser UV reactive Blue which would probably look fairly good in this case but then I have also like a blood red too. I tried to get that effect using some UV reactive red one time and it turned out more like pink. YUCK! I don't think I would go black with this though not that it might not look good but I want a contrast of some sort. I have some ultraviolet lights to put in if I go that way. So do you all usually just use distilled water with an additive for killing off growing things or do you use already made up coolant. I might as well learn the right way to do things now. The reason I got started with Koolance was not only becasue it was reasonably close by but a friend of mine got e started that way but so far he has been wrong in a lot of the stuff he told me. Is there anything else I should consider?
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You are very welcome.
As for fans it depends on your priorities. If you want low noise then the Scythe Gentle Typhoons are the ones to go for but they don't make illuminated versions. I would say either Phobya or Ximatek for LED fans and still efficient but quiet.
Alright, I will go and take a look at them right now on the frozen CPU site to see if they have any of those. I doubt if newegg carries anything like that but I guess I could look there as well. Anyone else have a favorite for fans? Thanks again. I might as well learn this the right way now...
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Regarding the coolant I use distiled water only and don't find a problem with it but as with all coolants it needs changing regularly. I normally do it about twice a year. That is another good reason for not using some expensive mixrture. I would also advise steering clear of all the coloured coolants as the colourant will come out of the suspension and start to clog the finer matrixes of your cooling blocks etc.
If you must use a colour go for Mayhems Dyes.
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So, what is the general consensus on coolant hose to use? I have been using Feser hose and then it is 1/2 inch OD and 3/8th ID which with a big case like the Corsair 800D is a little smallish looking but that is what I have on hand along with all the quick disconnects and nozzles and the like.
Then the ideal size of hose for you is the 10mm ID 16mm OD. This is a bit more meaty and looks larger with a bettter bend radius because of the thicker walls but still fits the 10mm barbs. Manufacturer wise the best if you want clear or black is Tygon 3603, if you want coloured use Thermochill.
Hey man, are you sure that you didn't mean "Primochill" rather than Thermochill? All I found on Frozen CPU was Primochill and the Tygon you were talking about. I like the idea of the colored tubing though. I can see why Tygon is popular though too. While searching around for stuff and looking at reviews I also found a review on Xtreme Systems on the Feser One fluid that I was using. It's no wonder i had all that crap ruining all my w/c gear. Come to find out it might not have even been the Asus board's water block deteriorating that was the issue it might have been the Feser One from looking at http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226632 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=226632) review. I also found a review on Mayhem dyes too and they said it was good stuff but it doesn't get as dark as I would want if I chose red. It seems like you can't find a decent dark red when it comes to a good dye or fluid. It all turns kindof pinkish. I was looking at all of the fans too especially the ones that DM was talking about and the only Phobya fans the size I need (120mm) have red fan fins. I couldn't find any Ximatek fans at all though but did find the Scythe. I am going to have to take a day and look all over to see what the consensus is on that end of things. Some of those fans blow and incredible amount of air but the decibels were up around 50-60 which is not all that good.
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Quite right my bad. Been doing a lot of watercooling recently! :-[ Yes should have been Primochill.
I had the same problem when I fell for their advertising blurb! No end of trouble with it clogging everything up and trying to clear it afterwards wasn't easy. No more Feser.
The red is always the worst colour to maintain it's looks. I can only suggest you use Primochill red tubing (which is very red) and then a red dye as well.
If you want info on the fans I will point you to a retailer I use but then you will have to find somewhere in the States to purchase them.
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/pc-case-fans-and-accessories/
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Regarding the coolant I use distiled water only and don't find a problem with it but as with all coolants it needs changing regularly. I normally do it about twice a year. That is another good reason for not using some expensive mixrture. I would also advise steering clear of all the coloured coolants as the colourant will come out of the suspension and start to clog the finer matrixes of your cooling blocks etc.
If you must use a colour go for Mayhems Dyes.
Hey, I found out that the Mayhem company is in major change right now and that they aren't producing anything at the moment. I found that out by asking why they didn't have a blue dye on a couple of the online stores that I usually order from. I even asked one of the online stores in Germany that will send stuff to the US. Everything I already have and am getting has to do with a blue theme and UV reactivity as well. I don't usually do bling but I decided to do it this time. I really would like to do the distilled water though so a question I have is do you add anything to the water? I was looking on frozencpu.com out of New York and they have this; http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive.html?tl=g30c103s186&id=XP8P5Rfs&mv_pc=4826 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11744/ex-liq-154/IandH_Dead-Water_Copper_Sulfate_Biocidal_PC_Coolant_Additive.html?tl=g30c103s186&id=XP8P5Rfs&mv_pc=4826) If you don't have time to look at it it is just a copper sulfate product that you add a drop per liter. Also how about anti-corrosives or do you just use plain old distilled water alone? I realize you did say ONLY but just need to make sure.
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Hi again
No I often use only distilled water as it doesn't need a biocide in as it is "poisenous" anyway unless it gets contaminated. As a matter of interest it is also non conductive whilst it is still pure and a lot of people dont realise that. If I want to use a colour I normally use a few drops of Mayhems. I had wondered why nobody seemed to have any stock at the moment.
You don't need to use an inhibitor/anti-corrosion agent as long as you only use copper (or any other single metal) on all your components as it is the difference in nobility of the metals that causes galvanic corrosion of the more base constituent. It basically can act like a battery and transfer metal between the anode and cathode.
Coppper sulphate works very well as a biocide but you must make sure that it is 100% disolved before adding it to the bulk of the liquid.
Hope this helps.
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Regarding the coolant I use distiled water only and don't find a problem with it but as with all coolants it needs changing regularly. I normally do it about twice a year. That is another good reason for not using some expensive mixrture. I would also advise steering clear of all the coloured coolants as the colourant will come out of the suspension and start to clog the finer matrixes of your cooling blocks etc.
If you must use a colour go for Mayhems Dyes.
Well I finally got to the bottom of Mayhems Dyes. He closed his business but then I also found a whole bunch of people on some other forums calling the guy making that dye a scammer who is repackaging regular dyes. You are over there so what kind of info do you have and also why did you recommend that dye in particular? Here is the site where he says he is closing his site and it's posted on March 2011. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=4772407#post4772407 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=4772407#post4772407) Sorry for dragging this on but I need to be sure of what I am spending my money on.
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I really don't know about the reasoning for the defamation of his character by others but as far as I am aware he is just a hard working guy who has gone to the wall like many other UK businesses due to this government's policies.
I have just managed to get hold of a couple of extra bottles of his dye (couldn't get any UV blue :'( ) but it l;ooks like someone else is taking over the manufacturing and marketing of the product so hopeflly we should be able to get it again soon.
I am sure that there must be other dyes on the market that would work well without clogging but I can only give advice on my own experiences.
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I really don't know about the reasoning for the defamation of his character by others but as far as I am aware he is just a hard working guy who has gone to the wall like many other UK businesses due to this government's policies.
I have just managed to get hold of a couple of extra bottles of his dye (couldn't get any UV blue :'( ) but it l;ooks like someone else is taking over the manufacturing and marketing of the product so hopefully we should be able to get it again soon.
I am sure that there must be other dyes on the market that would work well without clogging but I can only give advice on my own experiences.
Thanks man! Should have listened to you in the first place... Ya, on xtremesystems they said at one point that he had been in a car accident so the web site was down and then found his own post saying that he was shutting it down. Then I also had written to that German company, which at the moment I can't remember (age) who did tell me that it was changing hands as you say. Anyway, I found that this place has some of the dyes still but it's here in the states but no blue (boo hoo) http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c103/s185/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Coolant_Additives-Fluid_Dyes-Page1.html?id=XP8P5Rfs&mv_pc=3539 (http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c103/s185/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Coolant_Additives-Fluid_Dyes-Page1.html?id=XP8P5Rfs&mv_pc=3539) Looks like I will be trying to sweet talk newegg.com tomorrow into taking the Blacks back and trading them for the Samsungs... ::) BTW, if you do see some of that Mayhems UV Blue Dye please make sure and send me the URL... You sure must have to work your bottom off answering all these threads! I go to a lot of forums and this is the first one where you get quick answers from a mod who is vastly knowledgeable and kind at the same time. Very cool... ;)
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Only to glad to help and stops me getting bored! ;D
Yeah, by all means I will contact you if I manage to find some UV Blue. I even emailed the previous owner to see if he had a couple of bottles left but I haven't had an answer yet.
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Only to glad to help and stops me getting bored! ;D
Yeah, by all means I will contact you if I manage to find some UV Blue. I even emailed the previous owner to see if he had a couple of bottles left but I haven't had an answer yet.
Very cool! You must mean mlwood37... ;D It's so funny, before tonight (this morning?) I had never heard of him and now I know a bunch about him and what he is all about by reading around the web. I even found his article on dyes on xtremesystems
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=259897 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=259897) I'll bet that you have already read it though.
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Yes Mick, I reall feel for the guy! He has been at it a long time and making a business of it and now has been squeezed out. Having been in a similar situation I have a lot of empathy for him. The government has a lot to answer for along with the banks, but we won't get started on that road!
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Yes Mick, I reall feel for the guy! He has been at it a long time and making a business of it and now has been squeezed out. Having been in a similar situation I have a lot of empathy for him. The government has a lot to answer for along with the banks, but we won't get started on that road!
LOL, you aren't alone there! Take a look at what's happening over here. Same stuff different country. And no I will stop right there 'cuz I get REALLY pissed off about all that. Didn't realize it was going on there too though. Must be the big money people controlling our governments, yes?
But, changing the subject back to w/c... I am still reading all over the place in forums (saw you DM clear back in 2007 discussing w/c on xtremesys and what was best so now i really know you are the one to talk to. Hopefully this is my last question. (Ya right) Drum roll please... Does it matter that I have mixed metals in my system? I had to look back on the Koolance site and sure enough I have a cheapo aluminum rad in that Exos 2.5. Never again Koolance! Can I ask what you sold/manufactured/? No problem if you don't want to discuss it here...
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The short answer is yes! As I explained earlier you will be prone to galvanic corrosion if you mix metals. It really is a bad thing to do. Even though you can get agents that help minimise the harmful effects you will be fighting a losing battle. The easiest and best solution is to remove the offending part and replace it with a decent copper (brass or stainless steel are fine too) component. End of problem and no requirement of anti corrosion agents.
Yes I agree about the big money men! The power behind the throne. >:(
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The short answer is yes! As I explained earlier you will be prone to galvanic corrosion if you mix metals. It really is a bad thing to do. Even though you can get agents that help minimise the harmful effects you will be fighting a losing battle. The easiest and best solution is to remove the offending part and replace it with a decent copper (brass or stainless steel are fine too) component. End of problem and no requirement of anti corrosion agents.
Yes I agree about the big money men! The power behind the throne. >:(
Figured you would say that. I was looking on the Koolance site and they have a copper lined rad that I guess I could replace this one with although i am not sure why they wouldn't put the copper one in their main external systems anyway. If I ever see that "friend" of mine that got me using Koolance stuff I am going to brain him. Well I learned a lot tonight. Sure wish I could find some of that Mayhem UV Blue now though too. I may have to sell something to afford the copper lined rad though. They wanted $74 for the three fan 120mm copper lined rad. I am now wondering why they have never said anything when i have purchased copper lined video water blocks and CPU water blocks along with the aluminum rad 3 fan kit with pump and res? Mad we are...
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I am afraid that is often the way these retailers are. They will sell you anything they can often, that is why it is worth hanging onto a good supplier if you find one.
Forget getting a copper lined one as there are plenty of full copper radiators for that sort of price or a little more. I am not sure of the availability in the US but to give you an idea check this out :
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/radiators-and-grills/
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I am afraid that is often the way these retailers are. They will sell you anything they can often, that is why it is worth hanging onto a good supplier if you find one.
Forget getting a copper lined one as there are plenty of full copper radiators for that sort of price or a little more. I am not sure of the availability in the US but to give you an idea check this out :
http://www.candccentral.co.uk/radiators-and-grills/
Dark Mantis, did you happen to get a note back from Mick as yet? I wrote to Koolance last night and got an answer back today that was kindof confusing. LOL, of course that is an easy thing to do to me... Anyway, you know for some reason i thought that i posted what he said on here but guess not. Hope it's ok to share what he said but this is it;
Hello,
If we sell the Exos-2.5, likely HX-CU1020VS or V would be used.
Aluminum is fine to use in a rad as long as there is no un-plated copper in the loop and a decent coolant is used. Many customers use regular di-water with or without simple additives and have multiple copper blocks that don't use nickel plating. Aluminum shouldn't be used in that situation. All of our copper is nickel or gold plated.
Thank you for your inquiry,
Info
Koolance, Inc.
www.koolance.com
IF? Well they do sell it because that is where I got it from and it sure doesn't have anything but an aluminum rad in it. It says so right under the product on their site.
So then later today I called Koolance and got another guy and he said that he thought that whoever answered my email (there was no actual name) thought I was talking about a future product of theirs.
Ya right, I think that the guy just was trying to pull the wool over my eyes or something but who knows. I had worded my email message so that he should have known that I was talking about an Exos 2.5 that i owned and told them I wanted to replace the aluminum rad if possible with a copper one.
Well the guy on the phone told me it wasn't possible for some reason but then you told me to just go ahead and get a real copper rad anyway. I asked them though because I found out that their copper rads aren't lined they are copper with brass fins he told me. You know I must have written all this last night and then went to bed this morning and forgot to post it. Anyway the only things that will be in the loop I will have is the two GTX 480's that run REALLY hot especially with them being overclocked.
I really don't want to just toss a unit that was just under $400 a bit less than a year ago though and the water blocks are the Koolance ones that are "high density copper and nickel plating".
So with that in mind do you think it should be ok to use the Aluminum rad? Then my only problem would be trying to find the Mayhems UV Blue Dye unless you think that the Primochill UV Blue tubing is dark enough. I have never used that brand at all so I don't know.
I was looking at the Primochill Dye that was black and then UV Blue and since there will only be the 2 vid cards in the loop and I am going to put quick disconnects before and after them so that I can readily take them out any time I choose to clean them out it wouldn't matter if I had some of that dye getting caught anywhere because I could pop them out and clean them out as well as the pump, rad and res every couple of months.
I do understand what you have told me and that does seem to be the general consensus over the internet but there is also a lot of different mindsets on the subject too. You have a lot of experience though but I already am having to buy a bunch of parts like all of the quick disconnects and was also going to get a cool front bay slot temp, fan speed, and card reader all in one that is total overkill but I really liked the look of it. Sorry for such a long post...
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Hi
I think there was some misunderstanding all round to be honest.
The water blocks on your GPU coolers and probably CPU are likely to be copper. They might possibly be plated with gold or more likely nickel but a lot are just untreated metal.CU or copper.
If you are planning to keep them as they are then you wouldn't be able to use anything aluminium in the loop with safety. This was the standpoint I was coming from. I was suggesting replacing the radiator and pump for "real ones" and getting rid of these Koolance "blingy" toys.
If you want to keep the Koolance unit then you will need to replace the cooling blocks and any other items that you are using in the loop with either aluminium or plated versions.
Basically all items in a loop need to be the same metal and it is more common to find copper ones than anything else. You will have to decide which way you are going to go. Don't forget you could sell your Koolance unit on Ebay quite easilly.
I had exactly the same problem with a Zalman Reserator unit. Beautifully designed etc but was made predominantly of aluminium and so I couldn't use it with my copper blocks.
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Hi
I think there was some misunderstanding all round to be honest.
The water blocks on your GPU coolers and probably CPU are likely to be copper. They might possibly be plated with gold or more likely nickel but a lot are just untreated metal.CU or copper.
If you are planning to keep them as they are then you wouldn't be able to use anything aluminium in the loop with safety. This was the standpoint I was coming from. I was suggesting replacing the radiator and pump for "real ones" and getting rid of these Koolance "blingy" toys.
If you want to keep the Koolance unit then you will need to replace the cooling blocks and any other items that you are using in the loop with either aluminium or plated versions.
Basically all items in a loop need to be the same metal and it is more common to find copper ones than anything else. You will have to decide which way you are going to go. Don't forget you could sell your Koolance unit on Ebay quite easilly.
I had exactly the same problem with a Zalman Reserator unit. Beautifully designed etc but was made predominantly of aluminium and so I couldn't use it with my copper blocks.
LOL, When you're right, you're right! Although as I said the Koolance vid water blocks are nickel plated copper. I am still having a heck of a time trying to find what I like in the way of fans. I am shopping on frozencpu.com and there are just too many choices. I kindof want a UV reactive blue possibly with LED's as well for at least one of the Corsair H-70 fans (inside the case). What do you think of this fan;
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12120/fan-789/Silverstone_Air_Penetrator_AP121-BL_120_x_120_x_25mm_Fan_-_Blue_LED_SST-AP121-BL.html?tl=c331s518b7&id=FBKYVQJD&mv_pc=6878 (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12120/fan-789/Silverstone_Air_Penetrator_AP121-BL_120_x_120_x_25mm_Fan_-_Blue_LED_SST-AP121-BL.html?tl=c331s518b7&id=FBKYVQJD&mv_pc=6878)
Not a really high cfm value but the way the fan blows air is interesting. I watched the little video there and that fan is not only quiet but it blows the air straight forward instead of like many other fans that blow the air off to the sides.
I also want 3 x 140mm fans for inside of the Corsair 800D with a bit of UV Blue going on if possible.
I sure would have gone that Gentle Typhoon route though but they are sold out ATM. All the stuff about the fans though is just me being a goofball. I have been looking through all of the cfm headings to see what is available. They didn't have anything besides Xigmatech CPU fans BTW and the Phobya fans you mentioned have red blades on both the 120mm and the 140mm. I can't win... Ok, you might just have given me an idea with selling the Koolance unit.
What combination of pump, rad, res do you suggest I use? At first I thought of that kit that soarwitheagles mentioned on the first page of this thread but that was primarily for the CPU I think. At least then I could install the rad inside of the 800D under the top of it where there are three fan holes up there and the res could either go on the bottom or perhaps be one of those cylindrical one. ANY suggestions would be so very much appreciated. LOL, Anyone want to buy a Koolance Exos 2.5 version 1.1? ;D Just kidding as I know you're probably not supposed to actually try and sell stuff on here.
I have actually wanted to break loose from the Koolance kit anyway so i guess this is my chance. I am sorry that I keep bugging you but it's time I learned and the fellow who was telling me what to get for water cooling as I mentioned earlier was the one who got me going on Koolance and then he told me a lot of other stuff that proved to be wrong later on too. Guess I just need to keep reading though.
SO, also did Mick ever write you back?
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No I haven't heard from Mick yet, maybe hes having some time off for Easter.
Feel free to ask away. Any questions you have I will do my best to answer.
The fans you linked to are very nice and I have watched the video before. Personally I don't feel in most situations it would make any difference whatsoever. The only time it would benefit is if you had an intake fan that you wanted to specifically direct the airflow onto a certain component. For 140mm fans I just reviewed the Xigmatek XLF series with white LEDs that I was very impressed with.
AS for the rest of the kit well I would go for a Alphcool VPP655 pump which is well liked in the community for it's power and longevity as well as being controllable. Radiator to suit your case or even two if they fit better. You will also need a reservoir ideally and again any to suit the look and space available.
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No I haven't heard from Mick yet, maybe hes having some time off for Easter.
Feel free to ask away. Any questions you have I will do my best to answer.
The fans you linked to are very nice and I have watched the video before. Personally I don't feel in most situations it would make any difference whatsoever. The only time it would benefit is if you had an intake fan that you wanted to specifically direct the airflow onto a certain component. For 140mm fans I just reviewed the Xigmatek XLF series with white LEDs that I was very impressed with.
AS for the rest of the kit well I would go for a Alphcool VPP655 pump which is well liked in the community for it's power and longevity as well as being controllable. Radiator to suit your case or even two if they fit better. You will also need a reservoir ideally and again any to suit the look and space available.
Thanks yet again. Perhaps I just need to give you one blanket thank you for the duration... ;D You know the entire time I have been using the Koolance "stuff" I had not come across one article/forum/etc that spoke of what a person really should be using for their w/c setup and now I have been reading a ton of stuff to include a little blurb on Skinnee Labs. To make a long story short they have been using aluminum for a long time and the w/c community has been at any of the companies that are still doing so to change so it seems that Koolance is just now beginning to change their aluminum rad and pumps to what they should have been in the first place. In their defense they do make a great CPU block and the latest was tested on Skinnee labs site as well and came out on top of their former CPU 360 (which I do have but it doesn't work with socket 1155), and an Enzotech Stealth which is not a huge comparison but he was also comparing a few TIMS. As far as the TIMS go out of AT Silver Grease, Artic Cooling MX2, Indigo Xtreme, and the junk that Koolance puts in their kits, he liked the MX2 for overall but the Indigo Xtreme had the most consistent coverage. He said that the CPU 370 made the best contact and that the TIMS used made less of a difference with the block making a more contact which makes sense I guess. I found some of his stuff hard to follow though probably because I am now relearning w/c. Or should I just say learning now period... Although I now have a fair idea of what I am going to get if you should have any pearls of wisdom along the way here feel free to throw them on out. Now exactly what I will end up with and just how and where I will put everything is another story. BTW, Happy Easter!
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This is REALLY off the topic but you said that you are using 2 x WD Blacks in RAID 0 in your living review for the Gigabyte P67A-UD5. Are those older drives then? I forgot to contact newegg regarding trading them for perhaps the Samsung Spinpoint for a RAID 0 array which will probably be on one side of the LSI controller card I have sitting around here to get the most out of them and I think I have already said that the other two connections on the controller will have another brands 100GB SSD's on them. I don't suppose running the Blacks in RAID 0 on the controller would just happen to bypass that TLER would it. Probably not, I should be so lucky.
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No they are the updated new drives that I bought to RAID and then had problems with the Marvell chip and so started digging to find the reasons.
TLER (Time Limited Error Recovery) is basically just a safety net. It works by checking to see if the drive(RAID) has initialised and if not setting a delay until it does. If you are lucky and everything works fine then TLER doesn't really do anything. Obviously the faster the system and interface the more likely you are to need TLER. I just used my WDBlacks as I had them sat there and so thought I would give them a try on the SandyBridge. So far they have worked fine but I wouldn't want to use them in a mission critical machine.