Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with AMD processors => Topic started by: DronEll on May 24, 2011, 11:47:07 pm
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ATX CoolerMaster Silent PRO RS-700- 700W
DDR3 2Gb PC3-10600 1333MHz DIMM Samsung, Original
AMD Phenom II Six-Core 1075T
Gigabyte GA-870A-UD3
nVidia GeForce GTX460 Gainward GLH 1024Mb
Windows 7 Ultimate (no SP)
Before you read - my english is very (VERY) bad.
My problem: after approximately 24 hours of working my PC begins to "stuck". I dont know what word can explain it better. "Stucking" isnt permanent and it have different "symptoms" from time to time. Sometimes - sound stuck for 1-2 mins. Sometimes everyting, but not sound. In any case i cant reach any of my C:\ or other dirrectories, system asking me to wait (well, you know, this basic win7 annoying cicrcle runing around and around - please wait, dear user, oh, please wait, we will be done soon etc). And i wait from 30 secs to 2-3 mins, after that system continue to work like nothing just happend. If stucked once, next lag session will be very soon (half an hour or so) best chance to take another suck is to watch any movie from hdd. If i havent stuck before playing any game - i will not have problems INGAME (or at least i didnt catch this). But if i, for example, catch a lag while surfing internet and after that run League Of legends - i will catch another INGAME lag for sure. Also, there were a few "incidents" when i get back home from my job- i found my PC sleeping and after i turn it on - it has a one long signal, BUT its not circling (as it should be for AWARD BIOS) - PC either starts normally after a little pause, either need a simple reboot.
What "casual" and easy things i tried to do:
Turn off or shuffle my HDD's. I even installed another System on other HDD and turned off all others - all the same.
Also i tried to swap or shuffle my DDR3 - all stays the same. Both planks were raped by Memtest when i bought it (but they were raped together, i've heard there is a problem with testing 3+ gb of ram - i dont know for sure).
I just dont know what else i can do, but i have no any possiblile way to give my PC to experts - i need it for my daywork. Those lags are just annoying it begin to bother me more and more.
I've decided to attach a screenshot of my HWMonitor, since i can not in to Voltages, i belive you can tell me is everyting right there or not..
Can you help somehow help me with my problem? In fact im so upset about all this, i even began to suspect my ps/2 beloved keyboard - maybe she is trolling me like that? :/
Sory for my bad english, i hope you will read it to this line (it was a hard brainstorm, i think, i can understand that, since my job isnt so far from yours), and i belive you can help me with that.
P.S. - is it okay, that i cant hold my fingers on a north bridge heater? HWMonitor says it's 79C even with fan i've attached on my hyper212 with clamps to chill it..
(http://i.imgur.com/Vz38H.jpg)
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I think that you Hardware software monitor is not good ( i have see sometimes stupid values ) ???
exemple for you -6,46 volts for -12 volts ??
but sure the 79°C is not a good value
I use at this time http://openhardwaremonitor.org/
Pierre
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Hi there,
You don't say which version of BIOS you are running but I would check and if it is not the latest version for your board I would update it. You don't say which revision your board is but latest version for the Rev 2 boards is F5a.
The 79C TMPIN2 reported temperature could be due to a faulty sensor and is the most likely scenario, especially as it is showing the same temperature across the board. However you might find that removing the heatsink and replacing the thermal grease might help. (Don't forget to replace the heatsink after doing this!)
Double check your RAM with MemTest. I know that you say it has passed but there have been quite a few instances where this kind of fault has been traced to faulty RAM modules that have passed testing. Check each stick individually using the latest version of MemTest.
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You don't say which revision your board is
And the dumbest question of the year award goes to me - how to check what rev i have?
You don't say which version of BIOS you are running
After i knew what rev i have, ill check bios version and update it if needed.
The 79C TMPIN2 reported temperature could be due to a faulty sensor and is the most likely scenario
I think it is. Because on my old mb (neo-fv2 for am2 or something like this) was the same tmp. But here, on GA-870A-UD3 this tmp mark drops from 81 to 78-79 after fan attachment.
Double check your RAM with MemTest. I know that you say it has passed but there have been quite a few instances where this kind of fault has been traced to faulty RAM modules that have passed testing. Check each stick individually using the latest version of MemTest.
It will be done, but before this i have a better idea. A friend of mine bought a new PC today. My job will be to install all the parts toghether and i'll simply take his DDR3 to me for a week or so.
He bought a pair of DDR3 2Gb PC3-12800 1600MHz DIMM Kingston HyperX blu, KHX1600C9AD3B1/2G, BOX
My Samsung and this Kingston are not on a Memory support list, but its a chance anyway.
I've rememberd another question that bothers me:
Basic Windows 7 performance rating says i have 5.9 - the worst index is "HDD data speed trade", it is 5.9 (sory for my bad tratslation here). It was on my old Maxtor hdd, and it appears on my fastest Hitachi HUA721050KLA330, which i took for a new system about a week ago. Also, both of my HDD's are counted as IDE-channel on PC startup, why's that? Maybe this is the problem? What can i do with this? Other values: CPU-7.4, RAM-7.4, Aero-7.5, 3d-graphics-for-games-7.5, and overall is 5.9 because of HDD trade speed.
Thank you kindly for your answers and patience.
I think that you Hardware software monitor is not good ( i have see sometimes stupid values ) Huh
I use at this time http://openhardwaremonitor.org/
Check out image i brought, seems they both are the same.
(http://i.imgur.com/OP8un.jpg)
exemple for you -6,46 volts for -12 volts ??
Now i noticed, it's strange indeed. Min value is 11, but current is even smaller on a prev screenshot..
Thanks, ill use them both for a while.
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Hi sorry I didn't pick-up on this again earlier and I have replied to your PM.
For those who don't know how to find the Revision number (Rev. No) of their motherboard you will find it actually printed on the motherboard in the bottom left hand corner of the board. You can also find the Rev No. printed on a label attached to the box the motherboard came in (if you still have it)
There are a couple of ways of finding out your BIOS version. When you first BOOT up your PC it is normally shown on the first POST screen in teh top left hand corner. You may not see this screen if you have the Show Full screen logo still enabled in BIOS.
The best way to find your BIOS version is to go into BIOS and, on the Home Screen, press the F9 key. A pop up window will open that shows you such information as your CPU, amount of RAM, motherboard Model Number (sadly it doesn't show the Rev No. here) and the BIOS versions held in the Main BIOS chip and the Backup BIOS Chip. You may find that the BIOS versions are different, for example F6/F4 don't worry, this is pretty common and is due to the Main BIOS having been updated, whilst the Backup Chip still has the original factory loaded BIOS.
The Windows Experience Index will always show as 5.9 or lower for a mechanical HDD no matter what interface you are using. Even if you setup a RAID0 array with four Western Digital Raptors you will still get this figure from the WEI. The only way to improve this figure is to switch to an SSD.
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Revision number
I found in on the box and on the motherboard. Its 2.1
Seems like installing other DDR3 didn't solve the problem, ill wait untill lags appear again for sure and swap modules back. After that ill check bios version and update it if needed. If it wont help me, ill swap PowerSupply with my friend, he agreed to help me with my problem, since i helped him with upgrade. Our PC's are allmost the same, so i can swap some components.
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Hi again,
You might want to try my first suggestion of removing the heatsink on the Northbridge and replacing the thermal compound. There have been a few cases where there has been a problem like this and replacing the compound worked wonders.
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But i know that motherboard chip is small, and my thermal paste from hyper 212 is very liquid, i already have a not good expirience in this on my prev. PC's. Will it be okay if i remove the glue-like thermal compound witch used on chipset and just squeeze a small liquid dot from hyper term-paste on it?
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You'd do better if you used different thermal grease such as Arctic Silver or something similar.
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You'd do better if you used different thermal grease such as Arctic Silver or something similar.
Okay, ill try it after bios update and powersupply swap. Because its easier to swap power supply, than to take off northbridge heater and to clear chipset from thermal interface.
By the way, how should i put a new thermal paste on it? For CPU i used cross method, but it cant be used on motherboard chipset bacsue its too small. Also, maybe i should try to buy another heater with pipes, for example?
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I think it would be best to take things one step at a time. Try the simple changes first and see if that helps. If you are still having problems and decide to change the thermal grease, a small spot, on the middle of the chip is usually sufficient. If I get some time I will try and get some pictures posted of removing the Northbridge and replacing the thermal grease on a Gigabyte motherboard to help you.
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Probably be a good idea for a new FAQ absic
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Okay, seems like problem stayed even with new DDR3 planks.
I updated my bios to F5a.
Cant swap my DDR3 planks back for now, but ill do it later and will swap Power Supply in the same time.
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As absic has already told you the WEI is a crap piece of software and is not accurate at all. THe 5.9 is the maximum you can possibly get with a spinning disk drive, you need to install a SSD to get above that barrier.
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Hello again.
It seems like after installing F5a beta-bios my problem apprears faster. But maybe im wrong.
Put back my DDR3 and connected anoter Power supply (Toughpower 700W), if problem stays the same, ill call shop, where i bought it and start talking about warranty repair. Ill call them anyway to get Arctic Silver thermal paste.
By the way, what paste i should get? They have:
Arctic Silver Ceramique
Arctic Silver Adhesive
Arctic Silver 5
Arctic Silver Adhesive (actually a glue)
Arctic Silver Matrix (Hello, Neo and Trinity)
I simply dont know what is better, and i have no time and will to rtfm.
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I would advise the Arctic Silver 5. This comes in two sizes and if you are planning to use it a fair bit then I would just purchase the larger one as it will last for ages then. You only need a bit about the size of a grain of rice for a CPU.
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Power Supply swap didnt help me. Also, i've swapped graphic card (just for lulz), and my friend caught my lag 2 times, even if i stayed with my lags too...
Seems like a mystic drama to me.
My friend's PC is:
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition
DDR3 2Gb PC3-12800 1600MHz DIMM Kingston HyperX blu, KHX1600C9AD3B1/2G x2
AsRock 870 EXTREME3 (sadly, he was afraid to take same MB as i have..)
Nvidia GTS250
Due to the week business, ill try to get arctic silver 5 in nearest days and use it as you've told me few posts erlier.
It seems like after swaping graphic cards back as they were, solved his problem, but maybe he didnt caught those lags yet with hes own video card, just because he didnt use his pc too often... Can this happen because of the OS Windows 7? Because i've installed clear system for him.. Im paranoid, yes.
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Some of these things can be a trial to pin down. You can only keep trying . I would suggest breaking your system down to the bare essentials though as the less connected the easier.
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For last 4 days PC works fine, only strange lag for 2-3 sec over all. But 2 secs aint 2 mins. Also, only today i stucked as usual.
Also, since my friend have the same problem, and this is not Windows OS (coz he reinstalled win7 twice), he will take his PC to the service and watch out any result. I think if they fix it, they will say what was wrong and it might help me.
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img tag bugged for big images, si here it is with the links:
http://i.imgur.com/Cv6UQ.jpg Heat upgrade
http://i.imgur.com/PabhL.jpg Heat clean
http://i.imgur.com/Y7Obf.jpg Chip cleaned (shiny like a mirror)
http://i.imgur.com/wN7l3.jpg Chip with paste, i decided to do it that way.
http://i.imgur.com/1t4Hx.jpg MB look before
http://i.imgur.com/IOfhi.jpg MB look after the work
Okay, it didnt help, but heat seems way colder than before and thats a relief.
Should i try to swap CPU? Can it help?
And i read in the internet, that i can try to raise up voltage on my motherboard to solve this problem. Shoud i try it too? Since im a a lowskill loser, by what numbers can i rise voltages? Can you give me a good guide for this?
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Hi again,
sorry but I am a little confused now and before we go to far ......
Is the problem with the PC crashing or with the Graphics seeming to get frozen (stuck)?
You say your friend tried your Graphic Card in his PC and had same problem but he uses different motherboard. Yes/No?
Your friend's Graphic Card in your own PC also suffered from "sticking" Yes/No?
Sorry about the questions and I am sure I will have some more but, I am trying to get clear idea of what is happening.
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Hi
Glad to see that the Northbridge cooler is at least working better now and it seems that you have done a good job on it. Well done! The fact that it didn't cure your problem is a shame but at least now you can be sure that it isn't due to it overheating. I would try to answer absic's questions as he is the head honcho on this section and a very knowledgeable chap.
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Is the problem with the PC crashing or with the Graphics seeming to get frozen (stuck)?
Its allways different, sometimes its only sound stuck, last time i played minecraft, i stucked, i could alt tab and use other applications, but they all cach freeze in 5 secs after i alt-tab to them. Even Skype, even "my computer folder", even AIMP player, watever it is, it will stuck and become normal in few mins.
You say your friend tried your Graphic Card in his PC and had same problem but he uses different motherboard. Yes/No?
His problem wasnt same as mine. For him it was just an HDD end days. He bought new harddisk and it all goes well for last month.
Your friend's Graphic Card in your own PC also suffered from "sticking" Yes/No?
Well, if we take aside my previous message, so yes, maybe it is, but he has no problems for now on.
Sorry about the questions and I am sure I will have some more but, I am trying to get clear idea of what is happening.
I totally understand you, and i can only say thanks to you since you are trying to get into my situation.
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OK from your description there are a couple of things that might be happening and, as with all these things we may have to take some steps backwards to move forward.
The first thing to do is to go into BIOS and reload Optimised Defaults.
Press F10 to save and when system reboots go back into BIOS.
Make changes to your BIOS if needed for the SATA controller for AHCI if you have installed your OS in that mode or leave it as Native IDE if you installed your OS in that mode and also make any other minor changes such as Disable Show Full Screen Logo thta you like to make. DO NOT make any changes to the voltages or anything under the MIT Section of BIOS at this stage.
When you are happy with the basic BIOS settings, press f10 to save and reboot the PC.
Test the PC like this and see if problem is still there.
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The first thing to do is to go into BIOS and reload Optimised Defaults.
As far as i remember, i didnt change anything there since i've installed new bios.
Make changes to your BIOS if needed for the SATA controller for AHCI if you have installed your OS in that mode or leave it as Native IDE if you installed your OS in that mode
I have no idea what are u talking about
DO NOT make any changes to the voltages or anything under the MIT Section of BIOS at this stage.
Okay.
Test the PC like this and see if problem is still there.
But i dont think it will work, since bios setup is allmost, or completly default.
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If you reload BIOS to Optimised defaults then I can guide you through the basic BIOS settings. You probably have already done this but it won't hurt if you do it again and it will help us move forward if we know exactly where you are starting from.
Make changes to your BIOS if needed for the SATA controller for AHCI if you have installed your OS in that mode or leave it as Native IDE if you installed your OS in that mode
I have no idea what are u talking about
Sorry, I'll try to make the question easier to understand.
When you first built your PC did you change the BIOS settings for the SATA controller or leave it at the default setting?
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If you reload BIOS to Optimised defaults then I can guide you through the basic BIOS settings. You probably have already done this but it won't hurt if you do it again and it will help us move forward if we know exactly where you are starting from.
I will do it, no big deal, as soon as i can.
Sorry, I'll try to make the question easier to understand.
When you first built your PC did you change the BIOS settings for the SATA controller or leave it at the default setting?
If i cant understand it, and it works fine, i will not touch. So i didnt change anything there. But a few people besides me have access to this pc, so ill do bious defaults anyway.
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As I do not know how well you understand BIOS I will try to explain in simple terms. I apologise if you already know what I am explaining but if you are unsure it will hopefully make things easier. If you have any questions do not make changes to the BIOS but ask first and I will try to find easier answer.
Before you start the PC we need to check how your HDD's and other devices are connected to the motherboard. Make sure the cables from the HDD's are attached to the blue SATA sockets labelled SATA3_0 and SATA3_1. Then make sure your DVD writer is also attached to one of the other blue SATA3 ports
When you are happy that your hardware is attached as I describe start the pc and press the "Del" key to enter the BIOS
When you go into BIOS Click on the Load Optimized Defaults.
Press F10 key and then the "Y" key system will shutdown and reboot.
Go back into BIOS
Go to Standard CMOS Features and find the heading "Drive A" click on this and set to disabled. (Even if you have a floppy drive installed do this as there can sometimes be problems when using them) Hit the "Esc" Key to return to the main menu.
Go to Advanced BIOS Features
Set "Full Screen LOGO Show" to disabled. This will stop the Gigabyte LOGO showing when you start the PC but it will then allow you to see what is happening during the POST phase which can help in finding problems. press the "Esc" Key once to return to the Advanced BIOS Features menu.
Click on Init Display First and set this to PEG. Press the "Esc" key twice to return to the main menu.
Go to Integrated Peripherals
Under this section you can set the OnChiip SATA Controller. By default it will be set to Enabled leave this alone.
The OnChip SATA Type is set to Native IDE by default. As you have already installed your Operating System using this method it is probably best to leave this alone.
You can leave most of the other settings alone too but, I would suggest that you set the OnBoard ESATA Controller to disabled and if you are not using any serial devices you can also disable the OnBoard Serial Port1. You can also do the same for the Parallel Port if you are not using that. Once you have made these changes press the "Esc" Key twice to return to the main menu.
Once you have done this press the" F10" key and then when prompted the "Y" Key to save the changes in BIOS
The system will shutdown and then reboot and then the PC should continue into Windows. If, at this stage you get an error saying No OS installed or bootloader missing don't worry. Just restart the PC go back into BIOS by pressing the "Del" Key and go to the Advanced BIOS Menu.
Click on the heading "Hard Disk BOOT Priority" highlight the first drive and using the " PageDown" key move it so it is below your second HDD. Press"F10" and then "Y" keys to save and reboot the PC.
If you do not understand any of these steps, post back and I will try to make easier for you.
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Okay, going to reboot and do all this.
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As I said before, if you are unsure or want me to try and make it easier to understand I will do my best to help.
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Okay, im here again.
I've made some photos, will upload them later.
My HDDs are SATA0 with Win7 and SATA1 storage. My DVD is IDE, so it is mostly offline, i put it on only if i need to reinstall windows.
Go to Standard CMOS Features and find the heading "Drive A" click on this and set to disabled
I cant disable it, it says there is NONE Drive A. Photo later.
Set "Full Screen LOGO Show" to disabled.
Done.
Click on Init Display First and set this to PEG.
Done, there is also "PEG1", but i used PEG as u said.
Under this section you can set the OnChiip SATA Controller. By default it will be set to Enabled leave this alone.
The OnChip SATA Type is set to Native IDE by default. As you have already installed your Operating System using this method it is probably best to leave this alone.
I didnt touch this as u said. Sata controller is enabled, Native IDE is on its place too.
OnBoard ESATA Controller
OnBoard Serial Port1
Parallel Port
Turned them to "disabled" as u suggested.
System started well. Now we should wait for my classic lag session?
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Yes, now you must test PC and see if the lag still happens.
If you do still have the problem don't worry too much as I now understand what settings you have and it is easier to help.
Sorry but another question, if we need to, is it a big problem for you to re-install Windows?
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http://i.imgur.com/j8OHr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ptMQJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HXnzb.jpg
Photos
Sorry but another question, if we need to, is it a big problem for you to re-install Windows?
No big deal, since i have 4 hdds. Ill just use other one.
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Looking at your pictures everything seem to be set as I advised. Now all you can do is use your PC and wait and see if the "lag" still happens.
I'll keep my fingers crossed (for good luck) that everything is now fine but as I have said before don't worry too much if it is still there as we can now move forward and change other BIOS settings if we need to.
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Already lagged once. I will update this reply if it happens again. Seems like lag is still here.
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yep, it sill lags for me.
also, last lag i took on stream, lol.
http://ru.justin.tv/lonelylokly/b/289519797 last 10 seconds there. I have said "im stuck, lol" and xsplit goes offline right after the game.
After 2-3 secs game sound goes away too, i could alt tab, and than all desktop stopped working too. Music was playin for next 10 secs, and than stopped too (or maybe not i dont remember, coz i was too upset, coz i've sold the match for enemy by this lag session). After some time all things went normal.
And aimp said to me - would you like to UPDATE? I said - f-ck no, im upset.
:(
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yep, it sill lags for me.
also, last lag i took on stream, lol.
http://ru.justin.tv/lonelylokly/b/289519797 last 10 seconds there. I have said "im stuck, lol" and xsplit goes offline right after the game.
After 2-3 secs game sound goes away too, i could alt tab, and than all desktop stopped working too. Music was playin for next 10 secs, and than stopped too (or maybe not i dont remember, coz i was too upset, coz i've sold the match for enemy by this lag session). After some time all things went normal.
And aimp said to me - would you like to UPDATE? I said - f-ck no, im upset.
:(
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I dunno, whats happening, i cant post or modify, my replay simply wanishes away.
So, here we have a lag caught on stream:
http://ru.justin.tv/lonelylokly/b/289519797
last 10 seconds.
Game screen freezes first
After that xsplit goes offline
After that i use alt tab and all system freezes away.
Ofc, after sometime all things went normal, skype reconnected, xsplit went streaming from a new record (i turned it off and deleted the record coz there was too many nervous screams by my opponents in skype, lol).
I've even stayed ingame, watching game counter.
I turned off xsplit, teamspeak and aimp (this program wasnted to update, maybe that matters?) and i could finish the game without any lags (but that was short, we've lost in 10 mins).
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Hi again,
The real problem is trying to find out exactly what is causing this problem and as always this comes down to testing.
Although I don't believe it is a basic hardware error it would be worth checking your RAM by running Memtest which you can download from here: http://www.memtest86.com/download.html Running this test will do no harm but will confirm if your RAM is OK.
Next check your HDD's especially your Samsung drive and see if there is a firmware update for them. Not knowing how you have installed your OS and other programmes it is hard to pinpoint what is going on but if you have files or programmes on the Samsung drive, which is a "Green" drive this could be the problem as they can lead to slow access times, as they spindown when not being used, which maybe what is happening in your case. If you installed Windows on to the Samsung HDD this could be the reason why everything hangs.
The next step would be to run DPC Latency Checker which you can download from here: http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml to see if you can find the cause of the latency.
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Hi DronEll,
I did not read all the posts in your thread but I figured this might be of some help. I have the same board as you, only different components.
You can use it to compare. For example, my Temperature #3 is 41C, which is much lower than yours, but I also removed and replaced the thermal grease which might help you bring down that temperature.
Cheers,
Mike
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Although I don't believe it is a basic hardware error it would be worth checking your RAM by running Memtest which you can download from here: http://www.memtest86.com/download.html Running this test will do no harm but will confirm if your RAM is OK.
This again, okay. Should i use all my 4 at once, or split it to 2 for each test?
Next check your HDD's especially your Samsung drive and see if there is a firmware update for them.
My HDDs are Hitachi HUA721050KLA330 and Samsung HD154UI and there is no firmware updates or whatsoever for them, you can check it by yourself.
Not knowing how you have installed your OS and other programmes it is hard to pinpoint what is going on but if you have files or programmes on the Samsung drive, which is a "Green" drive this could be the problem as they can lead to slow access times, as they spindown when not being used, which maybe what is happening in your case. If you installed Windows on to the Samsung HDD this could be the reason why everything hangs.
as they spindown when not being used, which maybe what is happening in your case.
I know about that. Ofc i have no programs or whatsoever on it. I use it to storage video, distributives and other tons of usefull stuff i need. And i know about spindown, and yes, it happens. I can see a two-three seconds lag afrer i addres to it, and i can hear, how it turns on and start working.
And yes, my lags are some kind of a same, but just a waaaaaay longer.
And yet again, i had those lags even with solo Hitachi installed, or solo old maxtor.
The next step would be to run DPC Latency Checker which you can download from here: http://www.thesycon.de/deu/latency_check.shtml to see if you can find the cause of the latency.
will do it soon.
Good news from aside: now i have basicly two AM3 PC's, actually, im so upset, im thinking about swapping all my parts on other motherboard, and if it will work well i will... i dunno even what to do than. =(
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The best way to test your RAM is to insert one stick of memory in slot 1 and run Memtest on it for at least 10 complete loops/cycles and if there are no errors then swap it over with the next one and continue untill you have checked all modules.
If you have any errors then the module(s) is (are) faulty and you will have to return the whole RAM kit as they are matched.
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http://i.imgur.com/JVnGy.jpg that is latency checker status for the time i woke up (it was two hours ago).
http://imgur.com/pLEJT that happend just a few minuts ago. I've added some new music to the AIMP, opend new tab in browser and browser stucked, i've went to check hdds, as soon as i addresed to my C:\ (which is Hitachi with system installed on it), a seek bar in windows7 was moving verrry slowly to the end (it is also a place, where destonation is writen like this C:\Program Files\AMD but with dumb ">", the real path appers only if i click on it).
But that is not the heavyest lag i had, and yes, it was kinda same as "green samsung spindowns", but it is not it coz i was working with Samsung for last half of an hour, so he has no chance to spindown (it happens after 10-20 mins of stand by, and i can clearly hear if it happens).
Anyway, there is a stronger lags, it happens during gaming, for example, and ill keep Latency checker up to catch that lag.
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Hi again,
Have you made any changes to the Power Options in Windows 7? If not it would be worth checking these settings especially the ones for the HDD
(http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7736/powersaving001.png) (http://img42.imageshack.us/i/powersaving001.png/)
make sure this is set to never, so that the HDD(s) don't shutdown when idle. Also check other Power Setting Options to see if Windows or another programme (such as ATI's Catalyst Control Centre) is turning off or throttling back other items in your system.
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hdd power was on 20mins, now on Never, but i already did it some time ago, and it didnt help. Set it on "Never" again anyway. Also, i've found in NVIDIA settings something about power supplying, it was set on "adaptive", for now its on the only one another position: allways full energy. Sory for bad translation, since i have not an english nvidia drivers, i cant tell you exacly what lines i've changed.
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Other Problem:
Problem: Suspension
Wanting to get out of the suspension:
1.-not repond keyboard (PS2 or USB) or mouse (USB).
2.-Cooler of micro is accelerated.
3.-Reset button does not respond.
4.-does not leave the suspension!!!
To get out of suspension I should press power button 4 seconds.
Upon entering the Windows 7 takes a long, long time to read the disc.
Returning to restart, it asks me to check disk
This happens randomly about 1 in 20 times.
It may be a bug in the Bios?
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I take it you are referring to return from sleep. Usually it is because of the system not being 100% stable.
When you press the power button for 4 seconds itisn't bringing it out of sleep mode just forcing a power down. That is why you get the disk check prompt.
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The issue is:
Why the system is not being completely stable?
The memories are from 1600 but I run at 1333
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Hi there,
Which revision number is your motherboard?
Are you running the latest BIOS?
What are your full system specifications?
Instability can be caused my many things from faulty RAM modules, the PSU not being powerful enough, other items in the system (soundcard, HDD's DVD/CD drive(s), PCIE add-on cards, etc.)
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GA-870A-UD3 Rev 2.0 BIOS F5A (the last)
Memory: two dimm kingston 2gx2= 4 g dimm1 and 2 Kingston KHX1600C9AD3B1_2G
Video Sapphire HD 5670 1 g DDR5 drivers:catalyst 11.6b
Micro amd Phenom II 955 3200 mhz IN BOX
Disk WDC WD1002FAEX-00Z3A0 (931 GB)
DVD: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH20NS10 SATA
PowerSource :650W