Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: JHouse0386 on May 10, 2012, 06:55:05 am
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So first my rig.
Mainboard : Gigabyte Z68A-D3H-B3
Chipset : Intel Z68
Processor : Intel Core i7 2600K @ 3400MHz
Physical Memory : 8192MB (4 x 2048 DDR3-SDRAM )
Video Card : NVIDIA GeForce GTX 550 Ti
Hard Disk : Western Digital WD10EADS-00L5B1 ATA Device (1000GB)
Hard Disk : Western Digital WD10EARX-00N0YB0 ATA Device (1000GB)
DVD-Rom Drive : _NEC DVD+-RW ND-3650A
Monitor Type : Acer X223W - 22 inches
Network Card : Realtek Semiconductor RTL8168/8111 PCIe Gigabit Ethernet Adapter
Operating System : Windows 7 Ultimate Professional Media Center 6.01.7600 (64-bit)
DirectX : Version 11.00
First issue. Small
The processor is suppose to come overclocked at 3800 mhz.
It doesnt want to boot like this. Overclocking/voltage issues.
I understand this. This is legit an overclock. Thats fine.
Second issue. Moderate.
The Memory I bought is 2133mhz. This mother board supports 2133 without overclocking. Yet the mobo auto sets the frequency to 1600 and if I try to manually change it to 2133 again it wont boot and I Need to try to boot 5 times and then it resets it to 1600 and finally boots. This I do not understand. The board supports 2133 and I am running 2133 so what is the deal?
Third issue. I have 2 550 TIs in SLI yet Nvidia Control Panel doesnt recognize SLI even though windows and the control panel both recognize that I have 2 video cards installed. I hear this is a common issue going on though.
More or Less I would like to get my memory running at 2133 and I would like to get my SLI working. though the SLI might be more of a Nvidia issue. So Lets work on my Memory Frequency first. Can someone please help?
P.S. I am pretty sure my board came with smart tuneing to over clock inside of windows but again it wont boot afterwards. I am not interested in over clocking as much as I am interested in my Memory running at proper frequency and not being forcefully underclocked by the bios.
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Nice rig! Now what is it you want to do with it, overclock it to do benchmarking to try get the biggest scores? Because you will see NO difference running @1600. To get it running @2133 I think you need to overclock your system. Do you have XMP enabled?
Cpu @3800 is when Turbo mode kicks in when applications need it , otherwise it will downclock, unless you turn off all the power saving in Bios like EIST etc.
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Not really worried about over clocking it just want it to run all my games smoothly is all. Wanna play my BF3 on high settings ETC.
My main issue is why would I need to OC my Memory? The board supports 2133 without OC.... the memory is 2133. Shouldnt it just work? Why is the BIOS force underclocking the memory?
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so I turned XMP on profile 2 and the memory is now running at proper frequency. So am I over clocking or not? why does the mobo auto underclock me to 1600. Something I dont understand for sure.
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I think the board will clock @1600 for ram greater than 1600Mhz, and 1333Mhz for 1600 speed ram. I think (I'm not an O'clocker) running your ram @2133mHZ is overclocking it even though that is what it is spec at. I could be wrong and will stand corrected on this though.
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2 reboots later it doesnt want to boot and forces the memory back down to 1600 even tho XMP is on profile 2 2133.
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Take a look here http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html (http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/overclocking/39184-p67-sandy-bridge-overclocking-guide-beginners.html) it may help you out a bit! ;D
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upped that voltage like you said again the thing just didnt want to boot at all. Is it too much to ask for my 2133 to run at 2133 with a board that supports 2133? lol whats going on GIGABYTE. I dont want to OC my CPU just get my RAM to run as it should.
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got it to boot in profile 2 with the proper timings and frequency again. This bios is tempermental to say the least.
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A lot of it will depend upon voltages for stability. If you read that link you will have a better understanding esp post 5.
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At the end of the day if your just gaming then running your Bios at default with you memory running at 1866 or even 1600, you won't see any difference.
Even though your car can go at 200mph, does that mean you have to run it at that?
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So I ran Prime95 to stress Test and noticed my CPU is running at an ALARMING 97 degrees while stress testing. 50 right now while not stress testing. Think I am having some other issues besides this memory
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45 now while not doing anything. 97 during a stress test though? really?
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What kind of airflow do you have through your case? Have you got all your cables managed to maximize air flow? Do you have a front fan, side fan blowing onto your CPU and GPU, a rear fan for extraction and maybe one on top of your case to exhaust hot air? What kind of a case do you have??
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45 now while not doing anything. 97 during a stress test though? really?
Yes because it is pushing all cores to 1oo%
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NZXT Guardian.
Thing is the GPUs in SLI right on top of each other are running at 38 and 29 right now while on down time.
The CPU is 47 right now.
I start up a Prime95 Stress test and that CPU temp sky rockets while it takes up 100% CPU
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Cooling System
120mm Fans
1 x 120mm Blue LED front fan
1 x 120mm rear fan
1 x 120mm Blue LED side fan
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it doesnt have a top fan but it does have an exhaust grate there.
So 47-50 degrees while idle is normal? and 97 under a 100% stress test is normal?
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anyways thanks for the help man. Between you and that site you linked I figured out how to get my Memory running at the correct timings and frequency.
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Hey no problem! Those temps seem normal to me :D
Mine are running around 30oc at the moment but the cpu is throttled back to around 1600Mhz and it is fairly cold in here (Winter). But maybe you could think about a top fan. idling around 50 is ok for these chips but I would look into it though.
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would you recommend Overclocking the CPU or is the 3.8 turbo boost good enough in your opinion?
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Is good enough IMHO. I have the 2600K and I just have my bios at default with my ram which is 1600 rated running @1333 and I don't see the difference when playing MW3. I do see a difference if I bench mark for sure, but as I live in the real world when it comes down to gaming and everyday stuff, it's good enough. But I do have a GTX 580 Extreme Edition card as well.
If you do want to overclock, that guide I showed you will give you a pretty good idea!
But is it really worth it if you aren't a bencher? NO.
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I have found in the past that overclocking 24/7 just brings more problems than is worth over the long run. To me having a fast enough computer right off the bat and 100% stable is better.
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i went with 2 550s because supposedly in SLI its equivalent to a 570 and 70 bucks cheaper. Was on a budget. I hope Nvidia gets back to me on how to fix this SLI issue that a lot of people seem to be having. I hear ya on the ram though I read a review before I bought it that pretty much said with the sandy 2600k that the difference between 1600 and 2133 was very small and that it was probably just best to buy the 1600 it was highest bang for buck basically. I spent he extra like 20 dollars and got the 2133 though. Meh. I get this SLI working and I will be happy as can be though.
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Yeh I don't know anything about sli as I have never had it. Is there no sli patch or anything like that? What about in NVCP? Is there anything there for that?
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Thats the issue. There is suppose to be a tab in the NVCP to enable SLI and its settings but no matter what driver set ive used and I have used 5 different ones including the beta one the SLI doesnt come up in the NVCP. A lot of people are having the issue. I tried reseating the bridge and I have tested each card to make sure they work. Nvidia and Windows both recognize both are installed. But no option in the CP to enable SLI. I even double checked this board supports SLI so it is a great unknown until Nvidia tells me how to fix it. I can tell when I play BF3 only 1 card is working because one gets warm and the other stays cool.
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You would know more about this issue than me. I wish you luck with that! :P
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yeah his problem isnt exactly the same. mine actually both show up in windows and nvidia. I have heard about the conflicting Realtek Driver Rumor though. Though every time I try to roll my realtek drivers back i get code 10 drivers not recognized.
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Out of interest, what have you got running PhysX?
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I have it to auto select and it is on 550 card #1 via auto.
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IDK just a stab, but what if you set it to the 2nd card?
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no change.
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I did notice that ACTUALLY auto had it set to card #2 instead of 1 which 1 is what my monitor is plugged in to. So I manually set it to 1.
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Hmmmmmmmmm IDK
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I think it sets it to the 2nd card.
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thats what I Said so I switched it to the 1st card because thats the one my monitor is plugged into.
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Or is it suppose to be set to the card im not plugged in to?
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I reckon set it to the 2nd card and have your DVI cable plugged into the top (1st) card.
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that has been my config until I just started messing with it. I will put it back on auto and let it do its thing. lol.
When I am plugged into top #1
(http://i45.tinypic.com/156rcc3.jpg)
When I am Plugged into bot #2
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2q8ogab.jpg)
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Yeh that's probably best.
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lol When I plug into the bottom the top one says its plugged into digital display and the bot one is my acer monitor. When I plug into the top... Top is Acer bot is nothing. weird stuff wish I understood it more.
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Yeh as I have never dabbled with SLI I have absolutley NO IDEA haha But it's been fun shooting it with ya though!
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I am suppose to have something that looks like this in NVCP and I dont.
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c344/sextant2/nvcp.jpg)
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I would think so
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So just thought I would update you. I fixed my SLI issue with no help from anyone. I moved one of the vid cards down a PCI slot and reapplied the bridge. So my vid cards are in 1 and 3 instead of 1 and 2 and I boot up and Nvidia Control Panel was like Yo this system is SLI ready set it UPPPPP. lol. Saweet.
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Well done my friend, I am so glad you figured it out..........Happy Gaming ;D
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yeah I played BF3 and my CPU tempature hit the roof again at 90-95C which is around 187-203 F which is no good. I dont understand what the issue could be.
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I have not overclocked at all.
In the bios on boot up it says it is 87 degrees.
In windows idle it is 45-50celsius
Prime 95 full load it gets up to 98 celsius.
While playing BF3 it gets up to 90-95 celsius.
What is the issue? It is a brand new CPU.
Local computer hardware store owner told me that it sounds like i got a bad CPU that something like thermal paste even if i had absolutely none on there would only make about a 5 degree difference. He was convinced that newegg sold me a recall they sell as new. IDK. Maybe that was just his way of trying to get me to buy from him. I want to know what the issue is and what ways I can go about fixing it. From what I have read around the web I shouldnt be above 80 celsius even on a full load via prime95.
btw I have stock cooling and w/e thermal paste it had on it when it came out of the box. I still dont believe intel stock stuff would be this bad cooling wise. Any ideas anyone?
(http://i50.tinypic.com/6yd20h.jpg)
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Down load this and run it and see what temps your getting . You can leave it running whilst in game and it will let you know the High and lowest temps you get.
http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/ (http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/)
If your temps running this are on par with what you have been getting then we will re-apply the thermal paste to your CPU. It could even be a matter of re-seating your heatsink on the cpu!
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will let ya know. I will run a quick game of BF3 here shortly.
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Same thing. every core hit 98 celsius at one time or another while playing BF3.
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Ok what you need to do is get some decent TIM and remove the heat sink, clean off all the old TIM, clean the CPU and Heatsink and reapply it. Then hopefully that should solve the heat issue.
When I reapply it I use about a size of a grain of rice on the CPU then use a credit card to smooth it all over evenly then replace the heat sink.
Before you begin, is the heatsink on properly?? All 4 corners locked down?
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will this do http://www.staples.com/Antec-Formula-7-Nano-Diamond-Thermal-Compound/product_928659?
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That link requires a zip code
I just use this http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/986/pg1/arctic-mx-4-thermal-paste-review-introduction.html (http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/986/pg1/arctic-mx-4-thermal-paste-review-introduction.html)
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trying to work with something i can go pick up tonight lol.
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i turned the PC off unplugged the powersupply then checked if the heatsink was mounted properly it has 0 wiggle to it so it seems to be mounted properly. guy at the local Computer hardware place said thermal paste only makes like a 5 degree celsius difference and suggested my CPU may be faulty idk.
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Well I would definately be re-applying the paste as priority No1.
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Yeah I am clueless to what is going on man. Should I really have to reapply paste after installing the thing 10 days ago? This whole thing has just been a horrible expirence and headache so far.
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Usually if you remove the heat sink then IMO yes as when you take it off you tend to put 'holes' in the paste and so when you put it (heatsink) back on you can create air pockets and that can cause hot spots.
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So my rule of thumb is if you ever remove the heat sink, then re-apply the paste!
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I agree with you Fatman, always re apply new paste when removing these things, I use alcohol swabs that I get from the chemist to clean the surfaces.
I think maybe they should try getting an after market cooler for the CPU as I have never relied on Intels own.
Hopefully its not the CPU at fault or even the board itself, even though they both can be returned if faulty.
Ben.
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Yeh I'm running the 2600K with the intel stock cooler (first for me lol) and yeh, I'm pretty good temp wise at stock clocks.
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Well I would advise ditching the bundled cooler with TIM and get something decent for a start. The supplied coolers are not great at best of times and often one of the legs either doesn't get fitted properly or comes unlocked and this sort of problem surfaces. A new heatsink is the best idea anyway.
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yeah from what I have heard the fact that the heatsink itself is cool to the touch even when the cpu is hitting temps up to 205 degrees Fahrenheit is a sign that the heat sink is not making proper contact. Soooo I ordered the CM hyper 212 +
(http://i45.tinypic.com/k2nzfk.jpg)
this time I will make sure it is installed properly.
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we aint messin around no more :)
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Be sure to let us know how it goes :-)
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So I installed the new HSF. my tempature in BIOS used to be 87 every boot up its now 25. in windows I idle around 27-30. with prime95 full load im topping out around 50. about a 50 degree celsius change. I am pretty sure the stock HSF wasnt seated right by my buddy when he did it. he put a temp sensor in there and i think he got wires in there too so it wasnt touching properly causeing the over heating issue.
Now I got a new issue. while installing the new HSF I pulled all my memory out. now the thing wont boot with 4 sticks in.
all 4 sticks work in slot 4 1 at a time. slot 4 and 2 work when i put 2 sticks in. none of them work in slot 1. I have tried 4 and 3. 4 and 1 many different combos and I cant figure out what is wrong. i had a problem like this before with another board and i popped ram into slots 1 and 3 and it set up the dual channel or whatnot and i could put memory back in 2 and 4. and all 4 would run and thats just not the case right now.
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4 2 3 1 is how the slots are configured left to right
+ - - - works (all 4 sticks individually too)
+ + - - works
+ + + doesnt work
+ + + + doesnt work
+ - + - doesnt work
+ - - + doesnt work
- + - - works
- - + - doesnt work
- - -+ doesnt work
- + + - doesnt work
- + - + doesnt work
- - + + doesnt work
+ + + + originally worked until I removed it all
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It is possible that you have a bad ram slot. Try booting the PC with NO ram in (of course it won't, but humour me) and then clear cmos and then just put one stick into slot one and see if it will boot. Long shot yeh but I'm thinking outside the box. Or is it case HAHAHA
Another old school trick was to get a pencil with a rubber on the end of it and rub the pins on the ram to clean any tarnish off it and then try again. Have you memtested the ram individually in a known good ram slot?
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the ram slot was just working hours ago. but ill try
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well. that didnt work. BUT could both these slots have magically gone bad from me installing an HSF? I dont understand whats going on with slot 3 and 1. no clue.
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It was worth a try! It seems odd that that would happen like that. When you installed the HSF did you remove the board from the case? If you did, take it back out of the case and see if you can get the memory to run then. Just be sure to put a bit of cardboard or a large book or something under the board when you remove it.
I have no explaination as to why they suddenly stopped working but I would try that. Just to rule out any possible short. I Know its a PITA
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Other possibilities are; damaged CPU or socket,or CPU/socket overheated.
Shorted out ram slots from static.
Ben.
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so yeah it was bent pins from when i put the new heatsink on. After a runaround with newegg and Gigabyte I got a new motherboard and now everything works fine.