Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: HollyR on July 22, 2016, 07:01:51 pm
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Gigabyte Z170x-gaming 7
Noctua NH-D15 cooler
I7-6700k
Crucial 2x 16GB DDR4
Corsair rm650 power supply
PNY GeForce CT220 graphics
I have checked and rechecked all connections. I even, reluctantly , took everything apart and checked for bent cpu pins. When I power on, fans turn and the on board lights come on for 5-8 seconds then everything clicks off. After a few seconds the whole thing repeats. It almost seems like a car with a dying battery that just can't quite start but tries to turn over. I tried clearing cmos, even removing the battery. Also tried removing the graphics card thinking perhaps they were not compatible but no luck. I haven't installed anything else yet so the only things plugged into the power supply are the main power and the cpu. The graphics card does not have a power supply on it.
Any help would be tremendously appreciated.
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What memory speed you running ? we Have see a lot of the boards not but with memory not on the list and any thing over 2133.
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I will quote my receipt. Crucial 32GB kit DDR4 2400 CL 16 DR8 DIMM 28
I assume 2400 is the speed?
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If you have a Debug LED code I might be able to help you. If you can't even get that, i'd suggest warranty service or replacement of the motherboard, its probably a dud.
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Hi,
try with only 1 stick of RAM (change all 4 slots),
no other hardware except mouse and keyboard.
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I tried 1 stick of RAM in each slot, same result. Never get a debug code. Thanks a million for trying to help.
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Simple question... did you install the 4/8 Pin ATX EPS12V connector to the Motherboard - Pg. 26/27 of your owner's manual. Motherboard will definitely not start if this connector isn't connected.
Good luck.
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Simple question... did you install the 4/8 Pin ATX EPS12V connector to the Motherboard - Pg. 26/27 of your owner's manual. Motherboard will definitely not start if this connector isn't connected.
Good luck.
Thanks so much for the suggestion. Yes, I have that one connected. Good guess though.
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Hi,
this kind of issue can be really frustrating and trying to find the cause of the problem can be even more annoying.
If I were facing your current situation I would do the following:
If you have built the PC, remove all power leads, GPU etc. Remove motherboard from the PC Case and place it onto the cardboard box that it came in.
Connect the 24 pin main power connector and the 8 pin ATX connector.
Add one stick of RAM
At this stage do not connect the GPU, a monitor, HDD's/SSD's/DVD drive, mouse, keyboard or any other USB devices.
Try to power up using the button on the motherboard.
If it does start correctly, power down. Then add the GPU & monitor and test again.
If it doesn't start then there is probably a problem with one of the four components, Motherboard, CPU, RAM or PSU that you are using.
Carefully remove the CPU cooler and then the CPU. Double check that there are no bent pins in the CPU socket. (I know that you have already done this once but please take the time to check again). If the pins and socket look OK, replace the CPU and the cooler. Be careful when replacing the CPU cooler as over-tightening the screws that connect it to the motherboard can cause issues.
Try to start the system using the on-board power switch.
If it starts, great. If it doesn't then there is not much more that you will be able to test, unless you have lots of spare, compatible components laying around and it is time to start RMA'ing parts.
If you have managed to get it to power up and running, carefully check the PC case for any possible short circuits. Quite often this can be an extra standoff not in the correct position. If everything looks fine, replace the motherboard into the case and try to power up using the on-board power switch.
If it works great. If it doesn't, double check the case to try and isolate the cause of the problem.
If it is working OK start to add parts one at a time and re-test that it still starts properly.
When connecting the leads from the PC case make sure that you are connecting them correctly. It is very easy to, for example, connect the reset lead to the power on headers or vice versa.
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Hi,
this kind of issue can be really frustrating and trying to find the cause of the problem can be even more annoying.
If I were facing your current situation I would do the following:
If you have built the PC, remove all power leads, GPU etc. Remove motherboard from the PC Case and place it onto the cardboard box that it came in.
Connect the 24 pin main power connector and the 8 pin ATX connector.
Add one stick of RAM
At this stage do not connect the GPU, a monitor, HDD's/SSD's/DVD drive, mouse, keyboard or any other USB devices.
Try to power up using the button on the motherboard.
If it does start correctly, power down. Then add the GPU & monitor and test again.
If it doesn't start then there is probably a problem with one of the four components, Motherboard, CPU, RAM or PSU that you are using.
Carefully remove the CPU cooler and then the CPU. Double check that there are no bent pins in the CPU socket. (I know that you have already done this once but please take the time to check again). If the pins and socket look OK, replace the CPU and the cooler. Be careful when replacing the CPU cooler as over-tightening the screws that connect it to the motherboard can cause issues.
Try to start the system using the on-board power switch.
If it starts, great. If it doesn't then there is not much more that you will be able to test, unless you have lots of spare, compatible components laying around and it is time to start RMA'ing parts.
If you have managed to get it to power up and running, carefully check the PC case for any possible short circuits. Quite often this can be an extra standoff not in the correct position. If everything looks fine, replace the motherboard into the case and try to power up using the on-board power switch.
If it works great. If it doesn't, double check the case to try and isolate the cause of the problem.
If it is working OK start to add parts one at a time and re-test that it still starts properly.
When connecting the leads from the PC case make sure that you are connecting them correctly. It is very easy to, for example, connect the reset lead to the power on headers or vice versa.
Well, I have tried everything you suggested and am still getting the same result. I am throwing in the towel and returning the motherboard. Kudos to B&H Photo for taking it back, no arguments. If a new one doesn't fix it I am quitting computers and getting my Brownie camera and slide rule back out.
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http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=17599.0
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http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=17599.0
Thanks for that info. It seems very plausible except for the fact that I get this crazy pitiful little attempt to power on even without any RAM installed. Also, I called B&H and they said the RAM I have is approved to use with my board.
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What is the part # of the memory? Does just support Z170 boards?
These are the only two that are listed.
CRUCIAL 4GB 1Rx8 BLS4G4D240FSA.M8FADM SS Micron 16-16-16-40 1.2v v v v 2400
CRUCIAL 16GB 2Rx8 BLS16G4D240FSB.16FAD DS Micron 16-16-16-39 1.2v v v v 2400
The memory can act just the same as a CPU problem.
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What is the part # of the memory? Does just support Z170 boards?
These are the only two that are listed.
CRUCIAL 4GB 1Rx8 BLS4G4D240FSA.M8FADM SS Micron 16-16-16-40 1.2v v v v 2400
CRUCIAL 16GB 2Rx8 BLS16G4D240FSB.16FAD DS Micron 16-16-16-39 1.2v v v v 2400
The memory can act just the same as a CPU problem.
Well, I'm not sure about part number. The package says Crucial Ballistic 32GB kit 2 16GB DDR4 -2400 UDIMM 1.2v. If it was a RAM issue why would I get the same symptoms with the RAM (and even the cpu) removed?
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Like I said that memory will give the same symptoms as a CPU. The older boards would only boot for a few seconds with a CPU problem. But with memory in or out they would still boot.
Today's boards are different any thing like memory or CPU will give you the same thing. Plus leaving the memory is just like if the board can't read it right. If you have memory it can't read it will do the same thing. There should be # on the memory.
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There should be # on the memory.
Could it be 20163?
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There should be a sticker on the memory with a # some thing like this CT2K16G4DFD824A
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Hello HollyR,
If the board cannot maintain a powered on state without the CPU and RAM there is something wrong.
This is how a working motherboard will behave,
- Without a CPU or memory module installed the board should turn on, remain on and show a DEBUG code to indicate a CPU problem.
- With a working CPU + no RAM it will turn on, remain on and show a DEBUG code to indicate a Memory problem.
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Hello HollyR,
If the board cannot maintain a powered on state without the CPU and RAM there is something wrong.
This is how a working motherboard will behave,
- Without a CPU or memory module installed the board should turn on, remain on and show a DEBUG code to indicate a CPU problem.
- With a working CPU + no RAM it will turn on, remain on and show a DEBUG code to indicate a Memory problem.
Thank you, that is what I suspected. The board went back to B&H yesterday and I will report back when I get the new one. My biggest fear is that I somehow damaged it myself. I would never want to cheat anyone due to my mistake.
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Had that same problem on my Z-170 board. Liked to shoot myself because I build and have plenty of spare parts. Turned out it was the memory and not the board or cpu. No debug code just 5 seconds on and then off then back on then off over and over. I finally said heck with it and looked at approved list and none of the memory I had was listed so I bought 4 x 4 gig sticks of an approved memory and got a surprise it all worked. I hope rma'ing the motherboard works for you but if it doesn't then it is the memory.
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Had that same problem on my Z-170 board. Liked to shoot myself because I build and have plenty of spare parts. Turned out it was the memory and not the board or cpu. No debug code just 5 seconds on and then off then back on then off over and over. I finally said heck with it and looked at approved list and none of the memory I had was listed so I bought 4 x 4 gig sticks of an approved memory and got a surprise it all worked. I hope rma'ing the motherboard works for you but if it doesn't then it is the memory.
I have been trying to say that all a long. We both might be wrong, but these newer boards act different from older boards. You can take 2 of the same boards and will act different. You are the second person that has done that and work with the right memory.
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With memory in a board that isn't compatible yes the power cycle issue can be present in a never ending loop but please don't overlook the obvious feature of nearly every single motherboard.
If you power a motherboard with just the CPU and no memory installed, it will not do the forever looping power cycle issue.
The whole purpose of the diagnostic code would be non-existent if this was normal practice and I challenge anyone with a working Gigabyte Z170 series board (or any other) to try it.
Turn your computer on without the memory modules and see what happens.
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With memory in a board that isn't compatible yes the power cycle issue can be present in a never ending loop but please don't overlook the obvious feature of nearly every single motherboard.
If you power a motherboard with just the CPU and no memory installed, it will not do the forever looping power cycle issue.
The whole purpose of the diagnostic code would be non-existent if this was normal practice and I challenge anyone with a working Gigabyte Z170 series board (or any other) to try it.
Turn your computer on without the memory modules and see what happens.
Yes you are right that things should work that way. But if you go back over a year and look at all the threads started with the Z170 series boards. Nothing has been normal with these boards. Over 70% of the problems with these boards has been memory.
The last three bios update have been to deal with memory. (Improve DDR Compatibility, Improve DDR Compatibility & Improve DDR XMP compatibility). The 3 big things with these boards have been #1 memory, #2 Audio, & #3 USB 3.0. Yes you would think everything should work right, but not on these boards.
Plus I hope he get things work out. Nothing you hate worse then to have put everything together. Go to push that power button and nothing. Been there many times. ;D
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With memory in a board that isn't compatible yes the power cycle issue can be present in a never ending loop but please don't overlook the obvious feature of nearly every single motherboard.
If you power a motherboard with just the CPU and no memory installed, it will not do the forever looping power cycle issue.
The whole purpose of the diagnostic code would be non-existent if this was normal practice and I challenge anyone with a working Gigabyte Z170 series board (or any other) to try it.
Turn your computer on without the memory modules and see what happens.
Yes you are right that things should work that way. But if you go back over a year and look at all the threads started with the Z170 series boards. Nothing has been normal with these boards. Over 70% of the problems with these boards has been memory.
The last three bios update have been to deal with memory. (Improve DDR Compatibility, Improve DDR Compatibility & Improve DDR XMP compatibility). The 3 big things with these boards have been #1 memory, #2 Audio, & #3 USB 3.0. Yes you would think everything should work right, but not on these boards.
Plus I hope he get things work out. Nothing you hate worse then to have put everything together. Go to push that power button and nothing. Been there many times. ;D
Now you all have me very nervous. I have a new board on its way. This is my plan
1. Try it first with with nothing but power.
2. Add cpu and try
3. Try with cpu and memory.
Do you agree?
What worries me about the memory issue is, why did the power on problems persist even after I removed it? Do you think the wrong memory could damage the board?
As a separate problem, when I reinstall the cpu and cooler, what do I do about the dried thermal paste on each of these?
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For the thermal paste you would have to remove the old layer, wipe away with a dry paper kitchen towel.
Then apply new...
Once you get the new board why not just put all the bits in there and see if it works :)
Your memory cannot damage anything, I have the Crucial BallisitX Sport 2400Mhz in a Z170X UD5-TH board, worked ok with an i7-6700k and Celeron G3900.
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I'm going to add to what ElectroStingz said. That I would try it on the box it comes it before putting in the case. Plus if everything works. Then check to make sure all the little standoffs are line up with the holes on the board too.
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I'm going to add to what ElectroStingz said. That I would try it on the box it comes it before putting in the case. Plus if everything works. Then check to make sure all the little standoffs are line up with the holes on the board too.
Well my new board arrived today and I am up and running. Thanks so much to all of you for your advice, suggestions, and help. I couldn't have done it without you. I really think my bad board was my fault...I am so green at this, I am sure I hooked something up wrong the first time. This is my first build and it shows.
Now if I could only figure out how to get my old optical drive connected to the motherboard so I could install an operating system. What do they say, one step forward, two steps back?
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The first board was probably faulty.
As to the optical drive, if it is an old IDE one with the wide ribbon cable that would be a giant leap back in time. :)
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The first board was probably faulty.
As to the optical drive, if it is an old IDE one with the wide ribbon cable that would be a giant leap back in time. :)
Ummm...yes, I am afraid it that old. Another big goof up on my part. I don't mind buying a new drive, just hate getting stalled again. I bought windows 10 on disc and can't get an operating system installed until I get a drive working. ;-(
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Well, yet another step forward after about 40 back. I ended up ordering an optical drive...which I won't get for 4 days. So I searched online and discovered I could download it to usb. Downloader would not recognize ANY of my usb sticks. Finally downloaded an iso....more googling. Found a Microsoft download that will convert iso to usb. Voila! I am finally up and running windows 10. One caveat, system still seems "fragile" for lack of a better word. Doesn't always come on first try. I wiggle and snug all connections and then it does. Sure hope it is not always that finnicky.
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Just wanted to pipe in and confirm that with a updated bios, the board supports 3200 speed ram too. (im using F8).
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Just wanted to pipe in and confirm that with a updated bios, the board supports 3200 speed ram too. (im using F8).
Yes that is nice but you memory really isn't running any faster then 2133 memory. Yes if you benchmark it you might see maybe a little faster then 2133. But not a big difference that you will really notice.
Running faster and more memory is more bragging rights then any thing. ;D