Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: Tritono9 on July 09, 2010, 11:39:30 pm
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Hey!
Im J.P.
I need your wise opinion. I bought the X58A-UD3R REV 1.0 ten days ago. I have it new in his package because I still missing some pieces to assemble the pc. I bought it because the stock was critical and I was afraid of not achieving to buy one.
Well, the thing is that this week arrived unexpectedly the REV 2.0 of the same board and I dont know if is a good idea to change and pay the difference to get the 2.0
What are the differences between REV 1.0 and REV 2.0? it worths paying more to have the revision 2.0?
I will not overclock. Please tell me your thoughts. Thank you!
P.S. = How I can know from what Batch is my actual Mobo? I readed that some batch make some noises and I need to know from what batch is mine!
Thank you in advance.
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REV. 2.0 has better on-board power conversion circuit. But so far it has been reported to make noise also. So far I think there is no specific batch reported by forumer that does not make the noise. What type of PSU that you're using?
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hey man, thank you!
So the Rev 2.0 has better onboard power conversion, it is a plus if I dont want to overclock? you do think is a good idea to pay the difference and get the Rev 2.0?
I will use a CM Silent Pro 700w. For now, I dont have my system running because I need to buy some parts. They next week I will buy the things that I need and I will build my system.
It will be:
i7 930
X58A-UD3R Rev 1.0 (if you do not convince me otherwise)
3x2 Corsair 1333 c9
CM Silent Pro 700w
Video card I dont know yet, Im thinking about it
I want to know the batch of my Mobo, how I can see it?
Thank you!
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The problem seems to be with the motherboard, PSU combination on the UD3R. It hasn't been fixed with the rev2 board but the power circuit is better. This is good for stability whether you o/c or not. I didn't think there was a price premium for rev 2 boards though. I would say your choice of PSU is as good as any, it has plenty of power for normal use and isa decent build. You can look on your motherboard box for all the details of your board. It will be on a sticker on the side.
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hey man, thank you!
So the Rev 2.0 has better onboard power conversion, it is a plus if I dont want to overclock? you do think is a good idea to pay the difference and get the Rev 2.0?
I will use a CM Silent Pro 700w. For now, I dont have my system running because I need to buy some parts. They next week I will buy the things that I need and I will build my system.
It will be:
i7 930
X58A-UD3R Rev 1.0 (if you do not convince me otherwise)
3x2 Corsair 1333 c9
CM Silent Pro 700w
Video card I dont know yet, Im thinking about it
I want to know the batch of my Mobo, how I can see it?
Thank you!
I thought Rev. 1.0 and Rev. 2.0 should cost the same. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If they cost the same, I will go for Rev. 2.0. If you have not purchased any PSU yet you may wish to consider Gigabyte PSU (http://www.gigabyte.com/products/list.aspx?s=51&ck=41). Gigabyte UK said when UD3R was powered by Gigabyte PSU, they did not hear the noise. You can PM the moderator of this forum and ask which Gigabyte model that they use. So, once you have the UD3R and the Gigabyte PSU and if you still have the noise issue, then it will easier for you to deal with the technical support.
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That's a good thought onemilimeter, a bit of insurance never hurts ;)
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Thank you for help me.
My situation is limited because I live in South America :\. I have bought the PSU CM Silent Pro 700w and here I cant buy Gigabyte PSU because I dont have where to buy. In my country the stock of all products is limited to a few options only. And because I live here in Chile, everything is like a scam. For example, I think too that the rev 1.0 and rev 2.0 should cost the same, but here are some difference in money, like $40 us.
I saw the box and I found this numbers in a white sticker (the only numbers that I can found):
EAN 4 719331 852092
SN101700022265
Check Number 1500 (maybe this is my batch?)
I readed a thread here and I can see that rev 2.0 has problems too like you said. I think maybe I will try with my rev 1.0 and if I have problems of noise (I work with audio and I need good conditions of silent in my work room) or something I will apply warranty and will pay the difference and get the 2.0.
Do you know if I need to pay attention in others aspects? if there are other bugs?
All opinions are welcome! thank for your time.
J.P.
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I think that on the whole it is a good board. As long as you don't fall foul of the "coil whine noise" which seems to happen on some boards(usually only when paired with certain PSUs) I am sure you would be happy with it. I don't know of any other bugs to do with this motherboard except maybe the Marvell chip which provides the SATA3 doesn't perform as per specifications. The SATA3 ports are actually slower than the SATA2 ports when it comes to running a RAID array.
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Well, Im thinking seriously in change my board for an 2.0 and pay the difference. Rev 1.0 has like 5 update bios when Rev 2.0 only has the deffault, I dont know but maybe is a intelligent option to change my Mobo? I want stability and good perfomance. Maybe it worth to pay the $40 us?
What you would do in my place? is not a huge difference in money but for first time Rev 2.0 arrive in my country. The only thing that worries me is maybe I will get more errors with 2.0 than with 1.0? is it possible in some way?
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Well if you believe the manufacturer's hype the rev2 board is supposed to be better. The power phases are less on the rev2 which I would have thought was a retrograde step but according to Gigabyte's Australian Marketing Manager it's an upgrade. I suppose it depends who puts the spin on it. Here's what he said about the new rev2 board:
The new PWM design is more advanced than the old design and is an upgrade not a downgrade lol. Number of phases do not automatically mean better power design. It depends on the component used and how it's implemented. We've moved onto a new driver MOS system which is very advanced and each mosfet can take more punishment. This new PWM will outperform the older style 24phase when you stick a Core i7 980X give it -190C and 1.95vcore and run vantage past 6GHz. That was the major consideration for moving to the new design!
We have also managed to integrate a new VRM redundancy system so it switches between two sets of 8 phases to increase the life span of phases and also if one of the phases dies the board will still work and use the second set seamlessly without the end user ever noticing. This new VRM allows us to control the way we use phases so for example when you drive an 8 cylinder car around and stop on traffic lights you dont need 8 cylinders to idle the car but only 1 hence reducing the fuel consumption. Same goes for this new VRM. It will can be controlled better than the old VRM so we can switch off sets of 2 phases and give the CPU enough power to operate in any instance but also not using all the phases to reduce power waste
I hope this puts it all in perspective for you
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Dark mantis,
Thank you. I need a Mobo that fits in the future because money will be an issue, I dont want to change mobo if I want to upgrade my CPU. In this moment, I take your advice and I want to change my rev 1.0 for the rev 2.0
Do you know if there are some users happy with his rev 2.0 Mobos? I readed some threads of the rev 2.0 with some problems. The 2.0 dont have bios updates and the rev 1.0 have. I dont know what to do at all, if someone are using the rev 2.0 and dont have problems please share with us. My main concern is that I will use pro tools, a very picky software for this Im worried about every detail.
Thank you :)
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Dark mantis,
Thank you. I need a Mobo that fits in the future because money will be an issue, I dont want to change mobo if I want to upgrade my CPU. In this moment, I take your advice and I want to change my rev 1.0 for the rev 2.0
Do you know if there are some users happy with his rev 2.0 Mobos? I readed some threads of the rev 2.0 with some problems. The 2.0 dont have bios updates and the rev 1.0 have. I dont know what to do at all, if someone are using the rev 2.0 and dont have problems please share with us. My main concern is that I will use pro tools, a very picky software for this Im worried about every detail.
Thank you :)
What do you think about AMD platform?
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What do you think about AMD platform?
I use the AND Platform and although it is not as quick as Intel and it has some of it's own problems, these pale somewhat when compared to the amount of problem the Intel platform seems to have.
There are advantages with AMD:
The way they handle upgrades. AM2 & AM2+ CPU's will fit into AM3 boards, although they do need BIOS updates. and, from what I am already reading about the next range of CPU's they will be continuing this kind of thing for AM3 into the AM3+ boards
The lower cost involved in putting together a reasonably powerful PC.
Overclocking on AMD is actually quite simple and, if you have a Black Edition CPU is really easy and, unless you want to be really silly, quite stable. (eg my 1090T is clocked at 3.2Ghz but I can get it to 4Ghz with just a couple of alterations in BIOS)
AMD CPU's seem to be cooler when running at stock than Intel.
Not a definitive guide to AMD but some of the things that I have noticed and experienced.
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Dark mantis,
Thank you. I need a Mobo that fits in the future because money will be an issue, I dont want to change mobo if I want to upgrade my CPU. In this moment, I take your advice and I want to change my rev 1.0 for the rev 2.0
Do you know if there are some users happy with his rev 2.0 Mobos? I readed some threads of the rev 2.0 with some problems. The 2.0 dont have bios updates and the rev 1.0 have. I dont know what to do at all, if someone are using the rev 2.0 and dont have problems please share with us. My main concern is that I will use pro tools, a very picky software for this Im worried about every detail.
Firstly I would like to say that absic makes a very good case for using the AMD solution. He does much the same things with his PC and so knows what he is talking about.
Regarding the Intel platform the rev2 boards are new out and so there won't be so much feedback from them yet and that is also why they are still on F1 BIOS. The rev2 boards have not cured the noise problem as has been documented on this forum. I would think that the rev2 board will have a longer update path than the rev1 boards which is obviously a bonus.
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Thank you. The bad part is I have bought the componentes except the video card. I bought an i7 930. I bought Intel and not AMD because Pro Tools works better with Intel, is a very picky software in the windows side. But Im decided, I will change my Rev 1.0 for the Rev 2.0 and I will try. I readed that the Seasonic and Corsair PSU makes the noise, but I have a Cooler Master and maybe I have luck. What I understand, is that the growl, squeals thing is not something general but something particular then? I only wish I have luck. I will let you know how it goes. Thank you for your time.
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That's it, the chances are that you will get a board that works perfectly and will wonder what all the fuss was about. Let's hope so. At least you are forewarned and if there is any problem you will understand it.
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Dark Mantis, thank you man.
How are you doing with your Mobo? you are still experiencing noise? how you fight against? you turn off something in the bios like C1E? how you doing?
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I have the X58A-UD7 motherboard and so don't have quite the same problem as the UD3R. I have had mine changed out recently and the original noise is still there but slightly subdued. Mine is not so annoying and I have finally figured it out and so I will attempt to make a customisation to fix the problem. Turning off C1E had no effect on mine. By the way while we are on the subject turning off C1E doesn't make your processor run at 100% all the time, it just doesn't cut back on the voltage when it is in "quiet time". So it shouldn't impact on the lifespan of the processor very much it is more an economy problem.
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so if I have the squeals problem is not a big deal disable the C1E? I searched and looks like a good idea to have it enabled. Well, I wish I will have luck. I want this option because I work alot in the pc but I see alot of instructional videos and things that dont require high power at all. I need power balance. We will see how it goes, wish me luck!
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As I said the chances are that your system will work fine. I mean of all the boards that are produced onlyu a small percentage have the problem. Even though that's bad enough for the people who have them, and I don't in any way let Gigabyte off the hook for their lack of active help towards finding a proper solution, most customers are very happy with their purchase I'm sure.
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Thank you. The bad part is I have bought the componentes except the video card. I bought an i7 930. I bought Intel and not AMD because Pro Tools works better with Intel, is a very picky software in the windows side. But Im decided, I will change my Rev 1.0 for the Rev 2.0 and I will try. I readed that the Seasonic and Corsair PSU makes the noise, but I have a Cooler Master and maybe I have luck. What I understand, is that the growl, squeals thing is not something general but something particular then? I only wish I have luck. I will let you know how it goes. Thank you for your time.
I recall you mentioned in one post that Australian Gigabyte uses Cooler Master to test the motherboard. If I'm not mistaken dkslim stated that the Australian Gigabyte technicians could not hear the noise because the working environment was quite noisy. Thus, I'm not sure if Cooler Master will work well with the motherboard. Anyway I wish you good luck and have a system which works perfectly.
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I just bought a X58A UD3R for a new Computer build. The board that was shipped to me was Rev 2.0
So far I've had some trouble. I can't install Windows 7 with all of my RAM sticks installed (3x2Gb G.Skill Ripjaw). To install windows I had to remove two sticks, and then install them back after the OS install. I thought the problem may have been bad RAM, but now that the OS is installed all 6 gig posts on boot and windows sees 6gig. Running Memtest86+ also shows no errors after 10 hours of running overnight.
I've had some BSODs since then when inserting thumb drives into USB slots and ejecting CDs, but I think those may be tied to driver problems, because I haven't had any problems since going through updating all of my drivers.
I've also had some problems leaving the computer idle and returning to find a crash. When I power the computer back up it says windows has restored from an unexpected shut down. I've read around that there is a certain driver that Gigabyte sticks on the computer that isn't compatible with Windows 7 power management and that may be my problem. I'll check it out tonight.
Anyway, just letting the community know about my issues with the rev 2 board.
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Thanks for the heads up jonno. It's not the first time I have heard of the problem with the ram and Windows installation and not all on Gigabyte boards either. A lot of the time problems are rectified by updating the out of date drivers that come with the mainboard.
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Thank you. The bad part is I have bought the componentes except the video card. I bought an i7 930. I bought Intel and not AMD because Pro Tools works better with Intel, is a very picky software in the windows side. But Im decided, I will change my Rev 1.0 for the Rev 2.0 and I will try. I readed that the Seasonic and Corsair PSU makes the noise, but I have a Cooler Master and maybe I have luck. What I understand, is that the growl, squeals thing is not something general but something particular then? I only wish I have luck. I will let you know how it goes. Thank you for your time.
I recall you mentioned in one post that Australian Gigabyte uses Cooler Master to test the motherboard. If I'm not mistaken dkslim stated that the Australian Gigabyte technicians could not hear the noise because the working environment was quite noisy. Thus, I'm not sure if Cooler Master will work well with the motherboard. Anyway I wish you good luck and have a system which works perfectly.
Rev 1.0 board with cooler master 750 W single rail (RS-750-ACAA-E3750)
I had noise with a GTX 470 I later RMA'd, but I have no noise with the 8800 GTS (g80) now, so I suspect the problem is a bit more complex.
Cannot elaborate further, since I didn't pay much attention. I did wonder about the sound, just thought it was a fan.
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This is the only problem, now any noise is attributed to the motherboard and it is hard to tell which really are and which are down to other components.
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I figured I'd give an update on my Rev 2.0 board issues.
I can't figure this crap out for beans. I've reinstalled Windows 7 about 5 times now. As soon as I get to the desktop after an install I try to update as many drivers as possible. However, it never fails, I run into constant BSODs no matter what I do. Sometimes my computer just crashes and reboots without a BSOD. I think the motherboard is either a) crap b) not compatible with windows 7 or c) broken. Having said that, I can't really say with 100% assurance that the problem is the MOBO. The only thing that I'm really sure of is that my case works :).
I'm going to return the mobo in hopes of new egg letting me get an ASUS. If they won't I'll go through round two with the Gigabyte.
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Thanks for the update jonno. I would like to know what would happen if you used some other memory like Corsair or Crucial. My bet is that the problem would go away. Anyway stay in touch.
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I built the pc yesterday. Im running win 7 ultimate 64. I dont had problems in the installation. All my ram was recognized but I needed to change the ram velocity. All is running good. Dont problem of noises in the cpu area or PSU. Im very happy for that.
BUT! I have one problem of noises in other place: USB. I have a Pod X3, a guitar simulator that works like soundcard too. I use this device to record and for all the sounds in windows. With my previous Mobo (a old one) I heared some electricity (Im listening through the Pod. I have studio monitors connected to the Pod with 1/4 trs balanced cables). But now, when I press buttons in the mouse I can hear the bytes, not a high volumen but I can hear and I preffer to not hear them. Is it normal? the sound is not there all the time, it shows when I open folders or navigate in general.
Thank you for you help, I think all is good except that!
Hey jonno, I readed some troubles with that brand of ram and with this mobo. Im running corsair 1333 c9 1.5v. In the compatibility ram list, it say only 1.5v rams. Maybe the problem with the mobo is your ram, Good luck for you.
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Well that's good news anyway Tritono, so the build went ok.
I am sure we can clear up the problem of the stray noise issues. This is not that unusual. Can you just remind me of the mouse, keyboard, sound card etc you are running(or is it only PodX3)?
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Dark Mantis: thank you man for you help!
For soundcard Im using the Pod: a guitar simulator that works like Usb audiocard too. I discover something: the noise is generated in the Mobo, I cant tell for now where specific is generated, but i think is in the vpu area. Is a very low volume noise but I discover that the noise comes like with every action: right now im typping and I can hear that the little bips comes at the same time when I push a key. Now, this noise is a low volume noise, right now Im very very close to the pc, more than the normal (I need to order my room). I think that in a normal situation with the chassis of the pc in normal position, I think is not a big big issue, however, the problem is that the noise is amplified via usb. If you put your face next to the pc, do you hear something when you use mouse, keyboard?
The last thing, I installed audio drivers and I can get sound via the connector of the chassis, but when I connect small speakers to the onboard back panel (in the green slot) I cant get sound. I installed the Realtek ALC889 drivers but I cant see a control panel. In my previous mobo I had Realtek onboard sound too and with the drivers comes a control center in the quicklaunch bar. I have a similar issue but with the control panel I fixed that. Do you have one?
Thank you for your time :)
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The sound controls should be located in your Control Panel under the tab "Realtek HD Audio Manager". You still didn't tell me about your mouse, keyboard combo? Is it USB and is it wireless?
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All is wired. A generic mouse and a mcrosoft ergonomic 4000 keyboard (Im new into ergonomic, is very strange right now). Now I can hear sound from the back, I configured that output like predetermined. But I dont have any control panel for the realtek drivers. I cant found it in control panel.
Do you think that usb devices can make the cpu bips sound?
I will go to sleep for a moment, 5am here, I see you tomorrow. Thank you :)
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Ok Dude, see you tomorrow.
I would start by moving the PodX to the slot furthest away from the CPU and then try moving the mouse and keyboard to other USB ports. This has been known in the past to cause a bit of "crosstalk". I will try and get absic to look at your problem as he is our resident "music maestro".
Try uninstalling and then reinstalling the onboard sound drivers. You should have a section in the Control Panel for them.
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BUT! I have one problem of noises in other place: USB. I have a Pod X3, a guitar simulator that works like soundcard too. I use this device to record and for all the sounds in windows. With my previous Mobo (a old one) I heared some electricity (Im listening through the Pod. I have studio monitors connected to the Pod with 1/4 trs balanced cables). But now, when I press buttons in the mouse I can hear the bytes, not a high volumen but I can hear and I preffer to not hear them. Is it normal? the sound is not there all the time, it shows when I open folders or navigate in general.
This happens to me too and in my case case whenever you change a folder the "high-pitch" noise will stop for 1 second and continue after that. However, when I plugged a Logitech speaker to the motherboard I did not hear any noise "amplified" by the speaker.
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I think onemilimeter that the noise the OP is describing is different to the noise that you are talking about even though they are similar. We shall find out as the thread progresses anyway.
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I think onemilimeter that the noise the OP is describing is different to the noise that you are talking about even though they are similar. We shall find out as the thread progresses anyway.
You're correct... The noise the OP is not the same to my case, in fact acts in an opposite manner. For example, the sound appears when OP "open folders", but in my case the "high-pitch" noise stops when I change from one folder to another. Recently I overclocked my system and sometimes I did hear the "squealing noise".
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I think onemilimeter that the noise the OP is describing is different to the noise that you are talking about even though they are similar. We shall find out as the thread progresses anyway.
You're correct... The noise the OP is not the same to my case, in fact acts in an opposite manner. For example, the sound appears when OP "open folders", but in my case the "high-pitch" noise stops when I change from one folder to another. Recently I overclocked my system and sometimes I did hear the "squealing noise".
That,s funny because there have been several other posts on here that have said the noise stops if they overclock their systems but it is there when at the default settings. By the way have you heard anything re your board?
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Hey!
Thank you for your help. I could not answer because events in my life. I wanted to answer with a very valid response based on fundaments about my situation.
I have news.
1) About the Realtek drivers problem and the no possibility of configuration. I formated my OS HD and I reinstalled the sound driver again but the newest driver at the first time. Results = all good. I have the icon in the quick launch bar and in the control panel. Problem solved!
2) About the noise issue through USB. I discovered that the noise was not generated in my speakers. The noise comes in a very little low volume from the CPU area, but the PSU amplified the sound in a huge way. I think that I have the whine thing too but in a low volume fashion (except through USB). I tried some things. If I disable the C1E thing the sound is gone. If I enable the C1E thing but disable other items in the BIOS (I dont remember now the names) born other a very irritating sound, like beps.
I wanted to keep the C1E thing on so I tried some things to turn off the whine thing. I discovered that if I put the VCore voltage up to like 950+, the whine sound thing is gone. In default settings, the VCore comes in auto. I put it in 1.0v and with the C1E thing enabled, the noise is gone. I dont hear noise through my speakers or in the PSU. I can hear a very very low electricIty sound in the PSU if I put closer my ear but maybe is normal, in my house the electrical circuit is bad and in my country we dont have good electrical circuits like in other countrys. But not sound at all!
I searched for the VCore deffault settings for the i7 930 but I cant found the exact official value. In auto mode, Bios put it in like 0.928v. Is a good idea to have it in like 1.0?
I dont have the noise now in this settings (C1E on, VCore manual) BUT I have a very big problem and Im confused. My pc restarts occasionally without advice. Is very strange. In fact, I started configuring the VCore voltage because my pc restarts withouth advice. I thinked maybe was a voltage thing but isnt (apparently). I tried Memtest86+ v4.10 today and I dont had RAM errors. However, yesterday I tried my sistem with individual ram. When I have only one stick of ram in my sistem, my pc freeze more quickly. I put out the components and reput them and now all is more stable. For example, the other days in normal use the PC restart or freeze. With the put out and the reput of the components I only had two freezes: I let the pc On in the night downloading music and things. Today in the morning the pc was freeze. And today I ran Prime95 with some programs open and the pc go freeze after a while.
I tried several benchmark and all seems good. I had some freezes too but like one or two.
What I can do? What do you think? Im thinking in format my HD and reinstall all again to check if there are errors in my HD but I dont know.
Please help me and sorry fior my english! :)
Thank you!
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Hi again, after reading your latest post I have a few suggestions. You didn't say where you are from as far as I remember but if your power isn't that good it would be a good idea to invest in a UPS system to condition your mains supply to your computer and act as a power backup in case of failure. I know what it's like from when I used to live in Bulgaria ;)
The C1E is only a power saving option and if you want to your computer will run perfectly fine with it disabled so getting rid of the noise. The other things you have done in the BIOS basically amount to overclocking and that is why the noise usually stops. When you put a bigger load on it the noise tends to go.
A re-installation is never a bad idea if you have problems but it will not always cure them, but at least you know it isn't to do with your OS.
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I searched for the VCore deffault settings for the i7 930 but I cant found the exact official value. In auto mode, Bios put it in like 0.928v. Is a good idea to have it in like 1.0?
I dont have the noise now in this settings (C1E on, VCore manual) BUT I have a very big problem and Im confused. My pc restarts occasionally without advice. Is very strange.
I've UD3R Rev. 1.0. I set the VCore manually to 1.1V. Make sure you've the right QPI/VTT and memory voltage. By the way, what's the model of your memory? Thanks.
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Thank you for your help!
Now thinking with your words I noticed something: I had always Turbo on and I had put out manually the VCore max in like 1.5v. With C1E disabled and with CPUz I can see that the system in auto mode put the VCore in 1.200v and sometimes it changes to 1.184v. There is a possibility: maybe the system restart or go freeze because it needs more voltage because the thing that in Turbo mode without C1E system is 1.200v and I never put that value for myself.
My RAMs are Corsair 1333 c9, this model: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145220&cm_re=corsair_ddr3_1333-_-20-145-220-_-Product
I have set them in 9-9-9-24 10.0 multiplier (1333), 1.5v
Today I will leave the pc alone again but this time with VCore in auto and the C1E turn off.
I was in the bio and I take note of all the settings, I will write because this is my first building. If you note some weird, please tell me!
Here we go:
QPI -Clock Ratio: Auto
QPI Link Speed: 4.8 Ghz
Uncore Clock Ratio: Auto
Uncore Frequency: 2.667mhz
Base Clock (BCLK) Control: Disabled
System Multiplier (SPU): 10.0 (I put this manually)
PCI Express Frequency: Auto
CPU Clock Drive: 800mV
PCI Exp Clock Drive: 900mV
CPU Clock Skew: 0ps
IOH Clock Skew: 0ps
Dram Timing Selectable: Quick (I put this manually)
Channel Interleaving 6 [auto]
Rank Interleaving 4 [auto]
Channel A Standard Timing Control: (I put this manually)
CAS 9
tRCD 9
tRP 9
tRAS 24
Channel A Advanced Timing Control
tRC 27
tRRD 4
tWTR 4
tWR 8
tWTP 19
tWL 7
tRFC 60
tRTP 4
tFAW 20
Command rate (CMD) 1
Channel A misc Timing Control
B2B Cas Delay - [Auto]
Round Trip Latency 57 [Auto]
Channel A Read Foillowed by Reads:
Differents DIMMS 6 [auto]
Differents Rank 5 [auto]
On the same Rank 1 [auto]
Channel A Writes Followed by Writes:
Differents DIMMS 6 [auto]
Differents Ranks 6 [auto]
On the same Rank 1 [auto]
Voltage:
>CPU
Load Line Calibration: Standard
CPU Vcore 1.23750v: Auto
Dynamic Vcore (D.Vid) +0.00000v: Auto
QPI/VTT Voltage 1.175v: Auto
CPU PLL 1800v: Auto
All the other things is in auto except the RAM that is in 1.5v
Thank you for your help! I will leave the pc turn on, wish me luck
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Thank you for your help!
Now thinking with your words I noticed something: I had always Turbo on and I had put out manually the VCore max in like 1.5v. With C1E disabled and with CPUz I can see that the system in auto mode put the VCore in 1.200v and sometimes it changes to 1.184v. There is a possibility: maybe the system restart or go freeze because it needs more voltage because the thing that in Turbo mode without C1E system is 1.200v and I never put that value for myself.
My RAMs are Corsair 1333 c9, this model: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145220&cm_re=corsair_ddr3_1333-_-20-145-220-_-Product
I have set them in 9-9-9-24 10.0 multiplier (1333), 1.5v
Today I will leave the pc alone again but this time with VCore in auto and the C1E turn off.
I was in the bio and I take note of all the settings, I will write because this is my first building. If you note some weird, please tell me!
Here we go:
QPI -Clock Ratio: Auto
QPI Link Speed: 4.8 Ghz
Uncore Clock Ratio: Auto
Uncore Frequency: 2.667mhz
Base Clock (BCLK) Control: Disabled
System Multiplier (SPU): 10.0 (I put this manually)
PCI Express Frequency: Auto
CPU Clock Drive: 800mV
PCI Exp Clock Drive: 900mV
CPU Clock Skew: 0ps
IOH Clock Skew: 0ps
Dram Timing Selectable: Quick (I put this manually)
Channel Interleaving 6 [auto]
Rank Interleaving 4 [auto]
Channel A Standard Timing Control: (I put this manually)
CAS 9
tRCD 9
tRP 9
tRAS 24
Channel A Advanced Timing Control
tRC 27
tRRD 4
tWTR 4
tWR 8
tWTP 19
tWL 7
tRFC 60
tRTP 4
tFAW 20
Command rate (CMD) 1
Channel A misc Timing Control
B2B Cas Delay - [Auto]
Round Trip Latency 57 [Auto]
Channel A Read Foillowed by Reads:
Differents DIMMS 6 [auto]
Differents Rank 5 [auto]
On the same Rank 1 [auto]
Channel A Writes Followed by Writes:
Differents DIMMS 6 [auto]
Differents Ranks 6 [auto]
On the same Rank 1 [auto]
Voltage:
>CPU
Load Line Calibration: Standard
CPU Vcore 1.23750v: Auto
Dynamic Vcore (D.Vid) +0.00000v: Auto
QPI/VTT Voltage 1.175v: Auto
CPU PLL 1800v: Auto
All the other things is in auto except the RAM that is in 1.5v
Thank you for your help! I will leave the pc turn on, wish me luck
Why are the different ranks given different values?
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My processor is i7 920, memory is GSkill Eco 2x2GB (8-8-8-24).
I O/C my system to 3.4GHz, memory to 1600MHz.
VCORE = 1.1V
QPI/VTT = 1.315V
DRAM Voltage = 1.5V
Gigabyte GA-EX58A-UD3R (REV. 1.0)(BIOS Ver. F5)
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.)
CPU Clock Ratio [21x]
Advanced CPU Features [Press Enter]:
CPU Clock Ratio [21x]
Intel(R) Turbo Boost Tech. [Enabled]
CPU Cores Enabled [All]
CPU Multi-Threading [Enabled]
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E) [Enabled]
C3/C6/C7 State Support [Enabled]
CPU Thermal Monitor [Enabled]
CPU EIST Function [Enabled]
Bi-Directional PROCHOT [Enabled]
Virtualization Technology [Enabled]
QPI Clock Ratio [x36]
Uncore & QPI Features [Press Enter]:
QPI Clock Ratio [x36]
Uncore Clock Ratio [AUTO]
Isonchronous Frequency [Enabled]
Base Clock (BCLK) Control [Enabled]
BCLK Frequency (MHz) [160]
Advanced Clock Control [Press Enter]:
>>>>> Standard Clock Control
Base Clock (BCLK) Control [Enabled]
BCLK Frequency (MHz) [160]
PCI Express Frequency (MHz) [100]
>>>>> Advanced Clock Control
CPU Clock Drive [800mV]
PCI Express Clock Drive [900mV]
CPU Clock Skew [0ps]
IOH Clock Skew [0ps]
Performance Enhance [Standard] (Options: Standard/Turbo/Extreme)
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.) [Disabled] (Options: Disabled/Profile1)
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) [10] (Options: Auto/6/8/10/12/14/16/18)
DRAM Timing Selectable (sPD) [Quick] (Options: Auto/Quick/Expert)
>>>>>Channel A
CAS Latency Time 8 [8]
tRCD 8 [8]
tRP 8 [8]
tRAS 20 [24]
Command Rate (CMD) 1 [Auto]
>>>>>Channel B
CAS Latency Time 8 [8]
tRCD 8 [8]
tRP 8 [8]
tRAS 20 [24]
Command Rate (CMD) 1 [Auto]
>>>>>Channel C
CAS Latency Time 8 [8]
tRCD 8 [8]
tRP 8 [8]
tRAS 20 [24]
Command Rate (CMD) 1 [Auto]
Advanced DRAM Features [Press Enter]:
Performance Enhance [Standard] (Options: Standard/Turbo/Extreme)
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) [Disabled] (Options: Disabled/Profile1)
System Memory Multiplier (SPD) [8] (Options: Auto/6/8/10/12/14/16/18)
DRAM Timing Selectable (sPD) [Quick] (Options: Auto/Quick/Expert)
Channel Interleaving 6 [Auto]
Rank Interleaving 4 [Auto]
>>>>> Channel A
@@@Channel A Timing Settings [Press Enter]:
##Channel A Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time 8 [8]
tRCD 8 [8]
tRP 8 [8]
tRAS 20 [24]
##Channel A Advanced Timing Control##
tRC 27 [Auto]
tRRD 4 [Auto]
tWTR 4 [Auto]
tWR 8 [Auto]
tWTP 19 [Auto]
tWL 7 [Auto]
tRFC 60 [Auto]
tRTP 4 [Auto]
tFAW 16 [Auto]
Command Rate (CMD) 1 [Auto]
##Channel A Misc Timing Control##
B2B CAS Delay - [Auto]
Round Trip Latency 67 [Auto]
@@@Channel A Turnaround Settings [Press Enter]:
##Channel A Writes Followed By Reads##
Different DIMMs 6 [Auto]
Different Ranks 5 [Auto]
On The Same Rank 1 [Auto]
##Channel A Reads Followed By Writes##
Different DIMMs 6 [Auto]
Different Ranks 6 [Auto]
On The Same Rank 1 [Auto]
>>>>>Channel B
@@@Channel B Timing Settings [Press Enter]:
##Channel B Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time 8 [8]
tRCD 8 [8]
tRP 8 [8]
tRAS 20 [24]
##Channel B Advanced Timing Control##
tRC 27 [Auto]
tRRD 4 [Auto]
tWTR 4 [Auto]
tWR 8 [Auto]
tWTP 19 [Auto]
tWL 7 [Auto]
tRFC 60 [Auto]
tRTP 4 [Auto]
tFAW 16 [Auto]
Command Rate (CMD) 1 [Auto]
##Channel B Misc Timing Control##
B2B CAS Delay - [Auto]
Round Trip Latency 67 [Auto]
@@@Channel B Turnaround Settings [Press Enter]:
##Channel B Writes Followed By Reads##
Different DIMMs 6 [Auto]
Different Ranks 5 [Auto]
On The Same Rank 1 [Auto]
##Channel B Reads Followed By Writes##
Different DIMMs 6 [Auto]
Different Ranks 6 [Auto]
On The Same Rank 1 [Auto]
>>>>>Channel C
@@@Channel C Timing Settings [Press Enter]:
##Channel C Standard Timing Control##
CAS Latency Time 8 [8]
tRCD 8 [8]
tRP 8 [8]
tRAS 20 [24]
##Channel C Advanced Timing Control##
tRC 27 [Auto]
tRRD 4 [Auto]
tWTR 4 [Auto]
tWR 8 [Auto]
tWTP 19 [Auto]
tWL 7 [Auto]
tRFC 60 [Auto]
tRTP 4 [Auto]
tFAW 16 [Auto]
Command Rate (CMD) 1 [Auto]
##Channel C Misc Timing Control##
B2B CAS Delay - [Auto]
Round Trip Latency 67 [Auto]
@@@Channel C Turnaround Settings [Press Enter]:
##Channel C Writes Followed By Reads##
Different DIMMs 6 [Auto]
Different Ranks 5 [Auto]
On The Same Rank 1 [Auto]
##Channel C Reads Followed By Writes##
Different DIMMs 6 [Auto]
Different Ranks 6 [Auto]
On The Same Rank 1 [Auto]
Load-Line Calibration [Standard] (Options: Standard/Level1/Level2)
CPU Vcore 1.24375V [1.10000V]
QPI/VTT Voltage 1.175V [1.315V]
IOH Core 1.100v [Auto]
DRAM Voltage 1.5v [Auto]
Advanced Voltage Control [Press Enter]:
Load-Line Calibration [Standard] (Options: Standard/Level1/Level2)
CPU Vcore 1.24375V [1.10000V]
QPI/VTT Voltage 1.175V [1.315V]
CPU PLL 1.800V [Auto]
>>> MCH/ICH
PCIE 1.500V [Auto]
QPI PLL 1.100V [Auto]
IOH Core 1.100v [Auto]
ICH I/O 1.500V [Auto]
ICH Core 1.100V [Auto]
>>> DRAM
DRAM Voltage 1.500V [Auto]
DRAM Termination 0.750V [Auto]
Ch-A Data VRef. 0.750V [Auto]
Ch-B Data VRef. 0.750V [Auto]
Ch-C Data VRef. 0.750V [Auto]
Ch-A Address VRef. 0.750V [Auto]
Ch-B Address VRef. 0.750V [Auto]
Ch-C Address VRef. 0.750V [Auto]
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Dark Mantis that is a good question. I dont know but onemilimeter has the same values about that. Im using Optimized Defaults with some manual adjust but not much.
What do you think about 1.2 for 2,9 (turbo mode) in auto? right now, with the pc quiet without applications I have this temp in Realtemp: 44-41-44-43. onemilimiter has 3,5mhz with 1.1v!
For now the pc is working good. No noise and no restart or freezes, but I have disabled C1E and I dont know if is a good idea to keep it disable for ever? Im not overclocking right now. Dark Mantis do you have disabled C1E too?
Other thing, how I can copy/paste all my bios settings? I wrote letter to letter in my previous post, do you have some program for that? in that way I can copy everythiing and show to you!
Thank you :)
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Regarding your settings I wouldn't like to say because every chip/motherboard/memory configuration differs and it is a case of see what works for you. There's also a lot of luck involved.
Personally I don't really have a problem with disabling C1E because all it means is the processor doeswn't throttle back when it's quieter but it is a fairly recent thing and unless you worry about saving energy or the long term prospects of your chip then it's no problem.
You can use the print screen function to copy your settings or as is more commonly used I think a digital camera. I don't know of any program to do it because at thay stage of the boot process there are no programs loaded.
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Other thing, how I can copy/paste all my bios settings? I wrote letter to letter in my previous post, do you have some program for that? in that way I can copy everythiing and show to you!
Thank you :)
You may find Virtual BIOS of UD3R at TweakTown Forum (http://www.jzelectronic.de/jz2/html/bios-help-x58a-ud3r-2.php)
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Regarding your settings I wouldn't like to say because every chip/motherboard/memory configuration differs and it is a case of see what works for you. There's also a lot of luck involved.
Dark Mantis is correct... O/C is an art... I tested two set of "UD3R+PSU" in the past two months and like Dark Mantis mentioned the O/C settings are slightly different in both cases.
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What do you think about 1.2 for 2,9 (turbo mode) in auto? right now, with the pc quiet without applications I have this temp in Realtemp: 44-41-44-43. onemilimiter has 3,5mhz with 1.1v!
Yes... 3.4GHz with VCORE=1.1V... the system passed LinX (10 runs) test and maximum temperature is 65 deg Celsius (idle is about 40 deg Celsius, dependent on ambient temperature). I've never tried VCORE lower than 1.1V and it may work at lower VCORE... By the way, my GSkill ECO is rated at 1.35V... so I set it at 1.5V the GSkill memory should work pretty stable.
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Yeah, you are right. OC is an art and each system responds different.
I will not overclock for now but I have a new. I ran Prime95 with the settings that I mentioned above (Turbo mode with VCore in auto and C1E disabled, without OC) and in Prime95 I get 77+ temperature. I have two download program in the backing running too. My pc restart without advice again. Today the system was very stable, maybe it restart because the high temperatures. When I put the VCore in 1.0 or something in Prime95 I only get like 60+ temperature. I dont know what to do. I will try the pc like I mentioned with VCore in Auto and C1E disabled without do stress test and I will see like it reaction. But is normal a 80º temp in Prime 95 with stock settings? and why my pc restart again? maybe for the high temperature?
I just want to know if every component is working right. I ran memtest and it said no error. If is the videocard the conflict I think that with Prime 95 should not be problem. What it can be?
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Yeah, you are right. OC is an art and each system responds different.
I will not overclock for now but I have a new. I ran Prime95 with the settings that I mentioned above (Turbo mode with VCore in auto and C1E disabled, without OC) and in Prime95 I get 77+ temperature. I have two download program in the backing running too. My pc restart without advice again. Today the system was very stable, maybe it restart because the high temperatures. When I put the VCore in 1.0 or something in Prime95 I only get like 60+ temperature. I dont know what to do. I will try the pc like I mentioned with VCore in Auto and C1E disabled without do stress test and I will see like it reaction. But is normal a 80º temp in Prime 95 with stock settings? and why my pc restart again? maybe for the high temperature?
I just want to know if every component is working right. I ran memtest and it said no error. If is the videocard the conflict I think that with Prime 95 should not be problem. What it can be?
All your parts should be relatively new and hence are still under warranty. In my opinion, you may try to push the system and see if the "self-reboot" is really due to "high temperature" or not. Need to debug systematically...
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When it suddenly reboots go straight into the BIOS and see what temperatures it is saying.
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Hey!
I have good news :)
So far my system is stable! I have the vcore in auto, the C1E off but the C3/C6/C7 on to save energy and to reduce the heat. I have turbo on for the cpu and the RAM enhance mode in Standard. for now, all seems stable. Thank you for all your help!
I have a pair of questions to confirm that all is good. I have in idle 40º-47º temp, and in full load I can reach like 60+. With Prime95 I reach like 70+ so I cant do the test. Are normal my temps? I know that Intel stock fan sucks.
Another thing, in bios I saw that the option Base Clock (BCLK) is Disabled. Is normal? with Real Temp I can saw that my BCLK is setted to 134.94, is good? What do you think?
The freeze was a voltage thing then, and maybe a error because I have the DRAM in Turbo and Extreme and maybe my rams are not much overclock :\
About the whine noise, it is here if you put your ear in the PSU, but a low volume. Since I have C1E Disabled, I dont hear whine noise in my monitors speakers! a very good thing for me :)
Thank you again for your time and intention
J.P.
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Basically your temps aren't bad considering you are using a stock cooler, get it changed as soon as possible for something decent. For a few € you dont want to put your system at risk and it will also make everything more stable. Glad to hear that the noise has gone.
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Dark Mantis, Thank you again.
I have bad news :'(, my system is not stable yet.
Just after posted here, I have a freeze. I have freeze yersterday and today.
Im thinking that maybe is my HD, I will reformat it to descart problems.
I have one question: In bios, I have the BCLK Disabled, and with Realtemp I can see it in 134.4.
Now I enabled it and put it in 133. Is a good idea to have it enabled and in 133? I dont know much about the BCLK
I have Turbo CPU on, 2.9mhz. Voltage of CPU set manually in 1.2375 because in the bios show that amount like the "normal voltage", so Im trying.
What do you think?
Thank you again! :)
PD: Do you think is correctly to keep posting in this thread or is more intelligent and helpful for all to start a new thread?
J.P.
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Tritono9 before you format again download and install this hotfix from Microsoft http://support.microsoft.com/kb/979444/en-us the link to download is almost on the top (View and request hotfix downloads).
I had similar problems you do now with random computer freezes and an occasional BSOD and that hotfix fixed that.
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Hi again Tritono, No I wouldn't change threads as this is all to do with the same system problems. Try what Strahd suggested first and then post back if it doesn't help.
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Thank you. In this time since yesterday I had like 5 restart wiithout advice and one freeze. I let my pc downloading things in the night and today all was freeze. When this happens, I can see that the communication with my usb keyboard is lost, turn off the lights of the keyboard.
I really want to try the hotfix, but I cant download. I can enter to the web but I dont see downloable links. I can understand that I need to download and install the file Ntoskrnl.exe 6.1.7600.20618 5,490,056 15-Jan-2010 20:11 x64 but there are not links. No place to click and start download. You see the link?
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You need to accept the agreement to download the hotfix. It is near the top left hand corner of the webpage.
try this link: http://support.microsoft.com/hotfix/KBHotfix.aspx?kbnum=979444&kbln=en-us which will take you to the agreement page. Click the "I Accept" button and it will take you to the download page
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When you go to the page you just click on the link: View and request hotfix downloads
Damn my turn to be to slow!
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;D
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I have very bad news.
Today I bought another HD because I need the space and thinking in that maybe the new HD will fix all this.
I installed some things, I was thinking that it was a Win BUT I HAD THE REBOOT THING AGAIN!
It happens when I have some windows opens or programs.
I want to installs the hotfix that absic recommends, but I need to let you know this before.
I entered in the Sucess Event Viewer after the reboot and I have this listed:
- Critic: Kernel Power
- Error: Kernel-Event Tracing, Windows update client, print service, eventlog, service control manager.
Look, Im dont know nothing about this but the power word reminds me my PSU. My HD are good, my videocard maybe too, the ram in Memtest dont show any error in a entire night.
I possible that my PSU is making the problem?
I will try the hotfix now but I dont have any BSOD or nothing, just reboots and some freeze but more reboot!!!!
:'( >:(
What do you think??
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The PSU is often an underlying problem but I thought that we had ruled that out on your setup. I will check back through the thread and make sure.
Well I have just read up on your Cooler Master PSU and it sounds good so I don't honestly think that the problem lies there unless you have a faulty model of course. Power supplies tend to work or not though and it is unusual to find a decent one that gives trouble. The only thing is that a PSU is only as good as it's mains supply power. If you have any doubts as to the quality of yours I would advise getting a UPS to condition the electricity supply. APC do a nice range that are reliable.
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Dark Mantis, Thank you! :)
I wish that my PSU is not a faulty one. Thinking in the elements and situations that I experimented, maybe my problem is a Windows 7 Bug Problem.
I installed the Hotfix that absic recommends and I feel that maybe for this road goes the problem. For now, I dont have any freeze. I let the pc downloading the entire night and it dont reboot or freeze. I saw the Sucess Event (if this are the words) and no new problem founds.
I will try the pc with the Hotfix and I will let you know.
Ah!, other thing. When I formated and installed things, I felt the pc stable. But when I ran Windows update, some time after that comes the reboot. Maybe there are some services or things that make problem with some components.
If the Hotfix dont work and I have reboots again, I will reformat and install but withouth any windows update except language. Do you think is a good idea?
And for absic115, thank you! how you comes with that info? how you discover that? what about your past problem?
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Well good luck and I hope that your problem is fixed. The trouble if it is a Windows problem is that it is so big now that trying to find the bit that is causing trouble can be a nightmare. All the different drivers etc that are specific to your hardware. Anyway I will keep my fingers crossed for you.
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Hey! I have news.
I discovered the problem. It was the Energy Save Options in Bios. I disabled C1E, C5/C6/C7 and EIST and now all is stable. I dont have any reboot or freeze for like 4 days or something and I left the PC on all this days in the night.
Im very happy about the stability! The main problem for me was dont know what is making the troubles.
Now, I need your wise opinion about. In this moment, in idle I have temps of 50-53º and in full load I reach like 70º with Cinebench CPU test and in normal semi-full like 60-63+ temps (but not with frequency). I have a static Vcore (1.136v) because I disabled C5/C6/C7 and the others energy options.
I have disabled Turbo CPU mode, Im using stock Frequency, no overclock.
I dont have money yet to buy a aftermarket CPU Fan Cooler. Can I live with that temps without damaging the CPU? I will not overclock for now.
And other very important question: What I do about the problem? I dont know what attitude take. I keep walking in my life and ignore the problem, or I need to require warranty? is normal? is a bug? How I take this?
Thank you for your help, Im glad that the problem is known. Now I need to know what to do about.
J.P. :)
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Well unless you are one of those "save the planet" people that worry about every bit of energy then I sholuldn't worry about it. I have them turned off on my machine but for different reasons, because I use liquid cooling. It shouldn't make any difference as you will probably update the processor before you kill it with old age. The temperatures are quite hot but bareably so, I would recommend getting a good aftermarket cooler as soon as you can. Glad you found the problem dude.