Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with AMD processors => Topic started by: wanner on July 27, 2010, 11:20:02 pm
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Im having problems with crackling audio on my Gigabyte Gigabyte 890gpa-ud3h.
I ran DPC Latency Checker and found that sometimes i will have huge spikes
(http://i31.tinypic.com/2m82ng6.png)
Note that its not just during the huge spikes that the crackling occours.
I have tried various sound drivers, both those that came with the motherboard as well as the latest from gigabyte and the latest from realtek with no luck.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
edit: Im using the internal sound device on the motherboard.
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Well I would try the free things first. Move your mouse if it is USB to another socket. Check your internal wiring and try to move any data cables away from power cables. Check the connnections to your speakers/headphones.
It might be worth checking if you are running the latest BIOS version.
Beyond that you will probably need to purchase a seperate sound card.
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I have tried changing USB ports. And I have tried different speakers.
When running EasyTuner6 i get spikes like crazy in DPC Latency Checker. I dont think im running the latest BIOS version. I am not sure which rev i have. I have tried to find the information by looking at my board but couldnt find it, but I think i have rev 2.0, is there anyway to confirm this?
I ran @BIOS and if i read it correctly i have BIOS version FB?
(http://i28.tinypic.com/d8bac.png)
I tried "Update BIOS from GIGABYTE Server" in @BIOS with no luck (error message: "Can't get "bios.ini" file in selected @BIOS server") so i guess i have to download and update manually from here http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3516#dl
My only concern is how do i verify which rev i have?
edit: I consulted my manual which provided excellent information about how to identify motherboard revision. It is indeed REV 2.0.
I will try updating to BIOS FD and see if that helps.
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According to the @BIOS readout it is FB but if you do a BIOS update DO NOT use this program!! Use the Q-Flash by pressing the "End" key when you are booting up. The Windows version is much more likely to brick your motherboard. ALWAYS run BIOS updates from the Q-Flash program. When you are booting you can confirm the BIOS version by looking on the screen as it POSTs. If it goes too quickly for you you can always press pause as it comes up.
You cna see what rev your motherboard is by looking in the bottom left hand corner. It is printed on the board just next to the expansion slots.
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once again DM got there first but what he says about NOT using the @BIOS utility is spot on. When flashing BIOS always use the QFlash utility as it is a much more reliable method.
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Thanks for your replies, i will use QFlash to update my BIOS. However I have one more question:
I downloaded the latest BIOS (FD from the Gigabyte website) and i got an executable, i then got three files. The BIOS file (89GPAD32.FD) and a batch file (autoexec.bat) and an application file (FLASHSPI). I cant run the batch and application file because it says they dont work with 64 bit windows. From consulting my manual it seems all i have to do is place the BIOS file (89GPAD32.FD) on an USB memory and then follow the steps in the manual.
Q1: What is the purpose of the batch file and the application file?
Q2: Do I have to download a specific BIOS version for 64bit? (seems strange so i guess not?).
Thanks.
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Just follow these steps. There is no special BIOS file for 64bit.
The first thing to do is go to the Gigabyte wesite and find the "Support and Downloads" section(http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/support-downloads.aspx).
Select your motherboard and revision number which can be found printed on the bottom left corner of the motherboard. Click on the BIOS tab. This will take you to the BIOS versions download page.The newest BIOS versions are at the top of the page. Click on your region under the Download Here section heading. A box will then pop up asking what you want to do with this file. Click on "save" and note where you are saving it to.
Take a USB pendrive and make sure it is formatted with a FAT32 file system. Unzip the file that you downloaded to the Boot sector of this drive and insert the pendrive into a USB port.
Re-boot.
Press the"End" key as it is POSTing and you will be taken into the BIOS flashing utility "Q-Flash". From there just follow the prompts and DO NOT TURN OFF THE POWER under any circumstances. It will look for the pendrive with the file on it and use that to update the BIOS. Believe me it is not as difficult as it sounds.
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The first thing to do is go to the Gigabyte wesite and find the "Support and Downloads" section(http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/support-downloads.aspx).
Select your motherboard and revision number which can be found printed on the bottom left corner of the motherboard. Click on the BIOS tab. This will take you to the BIOS versions download page.The newest BIOS versions are at the top of the page. Click on your region under the Download Here setion heading. A box will then pop up asking what you want to do with this file. Click on "save" and note where you are saving it to.
Take a USB pendrive and make sure it is formatted with a FAT32 file system. Unzip the file that you downloaded to the Boot sector of this drive and insert the pendrive into a USB port.
Re-boot.
Press the"End" key as it is POSTing and you will be taken into the BIOS flashing utility "Q-Flash". From there just follow the prompts and DO NOT TURN OFF THE POWER under any circumstances. It will look for the pendrive with the file on it and use that to update the BIOS. Believe me it is not as difficult as it sounds.
Wow, thanks for the quick response!
I just wondered why there where 3 files in the file i downloaded from gigabyte. I figure I only need the BIOS file and not the batch and application file.
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No you need all three on the drive.
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No you need all three on the drive.
All right, and the fact that its complaining about 64 bit windows wont be an issue since im not running it from withing windows?
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Quite right. It doesn't run from within Windows so it doesn't matter.
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I updated the BIOS and everything went fine. Havent been able to verify if the crackling is gone but i still receive random spikes in DPC Latency Checker :(.
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Right well earlier it came up in another thread a similar problem and the OP found that it was his USB3 drivers causing it. As he wasn't even using USB3 he disabled it and all was well again. Worth a try I think.
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I just verified that I also get crackling sounds when pluggin in headphones at the front.
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I just verified that I also get crackling sounds when pluggin in headphones at the front.
In that case also check that your PC has good continuity with the earth on your ring main in the house. It could be a static build up.
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Right well earlier it came up in another thread a similar problem and the OP found that it was his USB3 drivers causing it. As he wasn't even using USB3 he disabled it and all was well again. Worth a try I think.
I think I have disabled it now. I uninstalled the drivers and disabled it in device manager. However im not sure whats going on there, alot of USB stuff. also I dont understand why there are four NVIDIA High Definition Audio and one Realtek High Definition Audio? I have installed the latest drivers from Realtek.
Is it supposed to look something like this...?
(http://i29.tinypic.com/2ntwiyr.png)
I just verified that I also get crackling sounds when pluggin in headphones at the front.
In that case also check that your PC has good continuity with the earth on your ring main in the house. It could be a static build up.
You have to excuse me. I dont quite follow (english not my native language). I understand that the earth could cause problem but im not sure what you mean with ring main? What can I do to check it? I live in an apartment btw :). I guess I could try connecting my computer to another outlet?
But since i still get spikes in DPC Latency Checker i get the feeling that some device/driver is acting up.
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For some reason only 2/4 USB inputs work on the back (the upper two). Are they supposed to be disabled or something when the ports at the front are active?
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I didn't realise that you weren't local. Where are you located? You could try another outlet and another lead if you have a spare one. In Device Manager you have device near the top with a question mark on it. Underneath it has a Universal Serial Bus Controller. Right click on that and select "properties" and then disable it.
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I didn't realise that you weren't local. Where are you located? You could try another outlet and another lead if you have a spare one. In Device Manager you have device near the top with a question mark on it. Underneath it has a Universal Serial Bus Controller. Right click on that and select "properties" and then disable it.
Sweden.
The "Universal Serial Bus Controller" is disabled already, thats what the little arrow on it means. It wasnt a questionmark on it before i disabled the drivers.
Any idea why only 2/4 of my USB inputs on the back is working now? From what i recall all worked before, but im not sure. Are they disabled when the inputs on the front are active?
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Which ports on the back are not working now? what colour are they?
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In another forum a guy mentioned that he had similar problems with the same motherboard. He claimed that when he removed his motherboard from the case the problems disappeared, he then replaced his screws that fastens the motherboard with ones with smaller screwheads which solved the problem.
I have taken a picture showing the screws I used to fasten the motherboard in the case.
(http://i25.tinypic.com/30vf1js.jpg)
I am pretty sure that they are the ones meant to fasten the motherboard. Do you think it looks ok?
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Which ports on the back are not working now? what colour are they?
Oh, i didnt even realize they had different colors. They are blue and i noticed they say USB 3.0. I guess they are not working since i disabled the USB 3.0 controller ;).
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They are not the correct screws to fasten the motherboard down. If you look at the location points you will see that there are little solder points left around the screw holes, these are so the screws mak a good contact with the board and then through to the base(case). Sometimes if it doesn't earth properly through these screws you will get problems.
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Which ports on the back are not working now? what colour are they?
Oh, i didnt even realize they had different colors. They are blue and i noticed they say USB 3.0. I guess they are not working since i disabled the USB 3.0 controller ;).
Yes exactly! ;) But as that didn't seem to make any difference you might as well enable it again so that you can use them if you want to.
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They are not the correct screws to fasten the motherboard down. If you look at the location points you will see that there are little solder points left around the screw holes, these are so the screws mak a good contact with the board and then through to the base(case). Sometimes if it doesn't eareth properly through these screws you will get problems.
Ah, i thought to myself that the screws should probably cover those solder points. However I am pretty sure I am using the "correct" screws that came with the case and were mentioned to fasten the motherboard. They say "M/B screw". But I guess im better off using different ones that actually cover the entire solder points, even if they are not the ones meant to be used.
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Normally they are larger with a coarse thread and often a squared off top edges if you understand me. Just make sure that there are no points under the board that could short circuit the motherboard to earth like extra motherboard standoffs/mounts.
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Here is a picture showing the different screws that came with the case :)
(http://i28.tinypic.com/1h5dnt.jpg)
At the moment i am using the "M/B screw" to fasten the board to the case. I have also placed the "M/B stand" between the case and the board. Im thinking that i could use the "HDD screw" instead since the head is larger on that one the solderings will be covered?
They look like this :)
(http://i31.tinypic.com/2lc2xb7.jpg)
(http://i30.tinypic.com/2aesdjs.jpg)
Just make sure that there are no points under the board that could short circuit the motherboard to earth like extra motherboard standoffs/mounts.
Hmm... im not quite sure I understand what you mean. As I mentioned earlier i mounted the board on the M/B stands, so the board has no direct contact with the case.
Also, i think i used the "FDD screw" to fasten the PSU to the case instead of the PSU screws, but that shouldnt matter right?
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Usually the are more like the PSU screws especially in size. The motherboard stands are fine but In would supect that you should only be using 9 of them, so make sure there are no extra ones behind the motherboard anywhere. The FDD screws wouldn't be any good for holding the PSU to the case as they are too small.
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Usually the are more like the PSU screws especially in size. The motherboard stands are fine but In would supect that you should only be using 9 of them, so make sure there are no extra ones behind the motherboard anywhere. The FDD screws wouldn't be any good for holding the PSU to the case as they are too small.
The PSU screws are pretty small, same size as the FDD screw. But i will change to the PSU screws for the PSU anyways (just makes sense ;)).
You are correct in that I am only using 9 of the motherboard stands, also only 9 screws (of course) to fasten the board to the stands.
What do you mean with "so make sure there are no extra ones behind the motherboard anywhere"? Extra whats? Extra stands? Do you mean if there are any parts on the backside of the motherboard that are connected to the case?
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"so make sure there are no extra ones behind the motherboard anywhere"? Extra whats? Extra stands? Do you mean if there are any parts on the backside of the motherboard that are connected to the case?
No, it's just that there would probably be extra holes that you could have screwed the two spare stands into and then when you installed the motherboard they would have shorted it out to earth/case.
As far as the screws are concerned I think the best thing is to use whichever ones fit best bearing in mind what we have discussed.
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After our PM discussion Yes I think you will need to RMA it. I would say that it has a hardware fault on the motherboard.
All the best
DM
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Yes I think you will need to RMA it. I would say that it has a hardware fault on the motherboard.
All the best
DM
I really appreciate your help, thanks a lot!
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No problem at all that's what we're here for after all to help each other. You could always hit my applause button if you are happy with the way it has been dealt with.
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No problem at all that's what we're here for after all to help each other. You could always hit my applause button if you are happy with the way it has been dealt with.
Consider yourself applaud!
Btw, i checked the screws and the ones i have now are the only ones that fit the motherboard stands. And i am pretty sure that they have connection with the solder.
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Well that's what matters and of course holding the motherboard firmly ;).
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I have a PCI soundcard in another computer that I will try tomorrow and see if i still have sound issues. Im not sure what it tells me if i dont, but perhaps i can live with it then :).
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Realized that I do in fact NOT have a PCI audio card :). I have contacted the Gigabyte support and will try to get help that way. Once again, many thanks to Dark Mantis for all the help!
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No problem just keep us updated as to what happens and the outcome.
All the best
DM
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how did you come to the conclusion that it needs rma?
i just used dpc and saw that i have similar spikes. (i am using the onboard audio too and my mobo is screwd using the same stands)
http://imgur.com/YULZp.png
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how did you come to the conclusion that it needs rma?
i just used dpc and saw that i have similar spikes. (i am using the onboard audio too and my mobo is screwd using the same stands)
http://imgur.com/YULZp.png
After looking at your screen grab, your spikes are not that bad and only one at a time in general. A lot of systems will suffer some latency issues depending often on what software they are running. It can be software or hardware induced. We would need far more information about your stystem to come to any sort of diagnosis.
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Just to throw my twopennyworth into the mix here.
A lot of Audio, crackling noises can also be caused if you are overclocking and using software utilities to enable this, such as EasyTune 6 or AMD overdrive.
If you are overclocking your system it is a much better idea to actually make the necessary changes to your system from within BIOS. This has the advantage of your system starting out in an overclocked state and you can remove the overclocking software that very often causes more problems then it solves.
Audio, especially if you are using the on-board sound chip can be affected by the increased voltages, running through a motherboard when you overclock. In fact, even if you are not overclocking the audio can be affected by the natural changes in voltages and frequencies passing through the motherboard, especially if you have energy saving features enabled. It is often better to disable the on-board sound and add a 3rd party soundcard to eliminate this problem.
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Just to reiterate what I have said elsewhere on the forum and backup what absic has just said overclocking tols can have a huge impact on latency, the latest CloudOC program that Gigabyte has released is a good case in point.
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I just wanted to say that i think that my problems have disappeared :). I didnt rma my board. However i noticed that i got different problems depending on which audio drivers i used. If i used some (i think it was the lates from realtek) i got a hissing sound every time i turned off my computer, which went away when I uninstalled the drivers. I downloaded a driver sweeper and cleaned some drivers and installed the latest from gigabyte (at least i think thats the drivers im using atm), and it seems the problems crackling is gone, or at least it has been improved.... Or it might have been that i replaced my CPU with a 955BE, but that seems far fetched huh?.
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Or it might have been that i replaced my CPU with a 955BE, but that seems far fetched huh?.
It is quite possible that the CPU change could have impacted on the sound issue because all circuits have a resonant frequency of their own and chips are no different. In saying that though it is more likely that it was the driver change that had the most effect. The outcome is the important bit though!
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Or it might have been that i replaced my CPU with a 955BE, but that seems far fetched huh?.
It is quite possible that the CPU change cpould have impacted on the sound issue because all circuits have a resonant frquency of their own and chips are no different. In saying that though it is more likely that it was the driver change that had the most effect. The outcome is the important bit though!
I dont think it was the driver change since i tried chaning drivers several times before. However the proper driver cleanup with Driver Sweeper might have done the trick. Also, it is possible that the problem is still there but i havent noticed in the last few days.