Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: adnaanusa10 on January 14, 2011, 02:22:03 am
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damn.. still waiting for my system to work..with the new i7 2600k
purchased GA-P67A-UD5 yesterday.. and the mobo gives me problems..
The ACPI S4_S5 LEDS glow red.. any expert opinions what this means and how to fix it to get my system to work.
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Hi and welcome to the Gigabyte Forum.
I would suggest clearing the CMOS as a first step.
Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least ten minutes before replacing it.
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Opimised BIOS Defaults.
Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self and then press F10 to save and exit.
If you are still having problems then a few more details especailly of your hardware and symptoms would help.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
I am also having the same problem with a GA-P67A-UD7. The ACPI S4_S5 LED glows red and the board just keeps stopping and starting with the Debug LED flashing a partially lit second character*. (* The Debug LED can show two character error codes but this just seems to be a three quarter circle in the second characters position with the left top section missing... its probably just a power-up flash which means nothing as it doesn't correspond to any code in the manual.)
In addition, before it powers down, the memory and cpu-vvt LEDs [both green and orange] all go on and the top two phase LEDs are red, with the sixth green. Before the ACPI S4_S5 LED goes red it is initially unlit whereas the S0 LED is green.
I tried what you suggested but nothing new happened. Still locked in the up-down cycle of doom.
I have managed to get into the BIOS twice (but no longer, it seems those two times out of 100 boots were flukes), and I even loaded the optimal defaults one of those times. It ended in a FF Debug Code on the on-board LED when it hung on the windows7 (64ULT) start screen.
Do you have any further suggestions?
I was using v1.65 RAM, but have since put in v1.5 RAM, made no difference sadly. :(
There are a few posts around which suggest updating the BIOS... don't see how I can when it doesn't even start!
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Hi niekell and welcome to the Gigabyte Forum.
It is probably something fairly basic like a power supply issue or a short to earth.
I would suggest the next step, after checking all your power connections to the motherboard, that is the 24 pin and the 8 pin, is to remove the motherboard form the case.
Make sure that you observe anti-static precautions.
Lay some cardboard or use the motherboard box that is non-conductive on the worktop and remove the motherboard/CPU/heatsink/fan/buzzer/one stick of memory and PSU from the case and put it on the cardboard.
Add the keyboard and try and boot. The system should try and then fail emitting a series of beeps. Please post what sounds it makes.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
PSU or short... makes sense, however the PSU (750W ThermalTake Toughpower) has not changed since the previous board so I think that unlikely. It is also a nuisance to remove from the case (so apologies but I left it in for the test you suggested). I removed the MB with 1x2G RAM in slot1, CPU w/heatsink and fan, pc speaker (which I didn't previously have connected) and placed it on the (upside down) packing cardboard frame the MB came in.
I connected the KB to the PS2, plugged in the MB power and CPU power, then turned it on.
No change, no beeps or noise either.
Here are some photos of the result and a small low quality (sorry) video of the way it fires up.
Powered off: http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_001.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_001.jpg)
Powered on / not booted: http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_002.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_002.jpg)
Powered on / not booted #2: http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_003.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_003.jpg)
Powered on / not booted #3: http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_004.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_004.jpg)
Powered on / not booted #4: http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_005.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_005.jpg)
Powering up video: http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_006.mp4 (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110120_006.mp4)
I'm still at a loss.
I could remove the PSU as you suggested but I just don't think that is shorting as it was working fine with my old system.
I'll try it if you think its still a likely culprit though?
No warning beeps of any kind. :(
I tried using the Clear CMOS button, no difference.
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Thanks for the pictures and video it all helps.
From the video it would seem that it is trying to start and then shutting down. This is indicative of a thermal shutdown on hte CPU. Double check the CPU cooler fixings and make sure they are fully home. This is quite a common problem with the stock coolers.
Also remove all the memory apart from one stick in the first slot DDR3_1.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
Thanks for the advice, I spent all day troubleshooting this and I did remove and reseat the CPU and cooler as a part of that process.
What seemed to work (not reliably mind you) was something like what is mentioned here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=263598&page=9 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=263598&page=9)
This part in particular at least got me intermittently back into the BIOS which was enough to reset it and slowly things stabilized.
It is possible to make the BIOS Auto-Recovery kick in (Dual BIOS) and re-flash the MAIN BIOS with the contents of the BACKUP BIOS.
This is a simple and easy method for anyone to try before having to resort to other more difficult methods, or a RMA.
1. Shut off the power supply using the switch on the back of the PSU, wait 10-15 seconds.
2. Press and hold the case Power On swtich, then while still holding turn on the power supply from the switch on the rear.
3. Still holding the case power on switch, the board will start, once it does release the case power on switch and shut off the power supply via the switch on the read of the unit. (Do the latter two parts as quickly as you can once the board starts)
4. The board will shut down.
5. Turn the power supply back on using the switch on the rear of the unit.
6. Turn on the motherboard by pressing the case power on button.
Once the board starts this time you should see the Gigabyte splash screen, or POST page, then the Auto-Recovery from Dual BIOS will kick in. You will see a checksum error, and then recovery from BACKUP BIOS will begin. Once it is done reboot your machine and enter the BIOS and load optimized defaults then save/apply/reboot back to BIOS.
Now you are done, and will be using whatever BIOS was in your BACKUP BIOS, From there you can attempt whatever you were previously trying, or update your BIOS to the latest version.
Now I should point out that during the course of the day I tried the above along with the Clear CMOS button and sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. Eventually it booted and continued to boot as I slowly added each component one at a time.
Almost 12hrs later and it seems stable, at least it boots and recognizes all the components... even if windows did have conniptions about losing its "activated" status as the OS came into play.
Now I only have two things outstanding with regards to the board.
I cannot update to F6 of the BIOS using either @BIOS or Flashing it via the Bios Setup Screens. The file (via http or ftp) for F6 always reports as being corrupt in Flash-Bios and in @BIOS windows throws up a "stopped responding" message immediately upon the completion of the download and read phases. Nothing seemed to work to go to F6. I DID manage to go from F3 (the original) to F4 without any problems though. I tried F7a... same result as F6, corrupted file. (I downloaded multiple times from multiple servers located in Asia, China, USA, etc... always corrupt.) :(
I also don't seem to be able to get dual channel RAM working. I have 4 sticks of ram in there now, 2x4GB and 2x2GB, and was of the understanding that if the channels matched then there would be no problem with that (they have the same timings and speed, despite the size difference). I changed the BIOS Memory Management to be Expert and enabled channel and rank interleaving... not sure I should have done that though...?
Was I wrong to expect the use of dual channel to report the RAM to the OS as half of what it actually is? I just assumed...?
So it could have been the CPU seating or the cooler, or anything since I went all the way back to nothing on the board and worked forward from there. Still the only thing that seemed to have a sliver of success was what the above quoted section recommended (along with many applications of the Clear CMOS button, sometimes at the same time as the above procedure!). Once it began booting it had a bout of failures again, where I had to apply various and prolonged combinations of buttons and power switches, then it booted again and has stayed up since.
I've never had a MB this... finicky... fussy... or troublesome. Now I just hope it stays stable... from now on would be preferred. :)
Thanks for the help Dark Mantis.
Best wishes, Niekell
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Well I am glad that you seem to be winning but things don't sound right yet.
Silly question maybe but i have been caught out before so I will ask, did you remove the plastic cover from the TIM on the bottom of the CPU heatsink when yoiu installed it ?
If so did you clean off and replace the thermal compound when you remvoed and then refitted the heatsink ?
I wouldn't mess with the memory at the moment until you have a stable system. Just use one set of memory. When you can i would suggest downloading and running Memtest86+. This version is for the P67 boards
Memtest86+ V4.20 Beta 13
.Bin :http://www.memtest.org/download/beta/420b13/mt420b13.bin
.Iso :http://armstrongcomputer.ca/mt420b13-jasonacs.iso
Insert one stick of memory in slot 1 and run Memtest on it for at least 10 loops and if there are no errors then swap it over with the next one and continue untill you have checked all modules.
If you have any errors the module is faulty.
If you have any faulty modules you will have to return the whole kit as they are matched.
Post back when you have done that with the results.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
I did remove the plastic from the CPU cooler prior to putting it on, but I did not clean off and replace the TIM when I later removed the cooler (and CPU) when trying to resolve the initial stability issues. In retrospect I should have done so to provide a smoother conductive surface with new TIM, but I guess I had other things on my mind at the time.
CPU Cores are staying around 49C which seems acceptable despite the less than optimal TIM surface.
I downloaded and ran MemTest86 v4.20 Beta as you suggested.
First I ran it on one of the 4GB GSkill sticks, it took over 7hrs to complete but after 10 passes there were no errors detected.
Then I switched over to the next 4GB GSkill stick, boot failure.
Switched to a 2GB Kingston stick, boot failure.
Switched to the other 2GB Kingston stick, boot failure.
Not believing I could have 3 bad sticks of RAM I stuck the original 4GB GSkill stick back in, boot failure.
Hit the Clear CMOS button. Booted okay.
Freakin' inconsistent motherboard!
Not wanting to spend another 14hrs (for a 4GB and 2x2GB) doing RAM tests on single sticks I put all the RAM back in and let it run Memtest86 overnight. 6 passes of 12GB RAM ran without error. I don't believe the RAM is the source of the inconsistency.
There haven't been any boot failures since the overnight Memtest86 run. It has run all day with no unexpected shutdowns or reboots.
Hmmm... it seems that this MoBo isn't as resilient to hardware changes as all my previous ones have been.
Oh, the issue with the @BIOS F6 not working has also been resolved. So the BIOS is now running the F6 version.
Also of note, booting into WIN7 ULT 64 takes over 2 minutes. This is commonly a driver issue, however booting in "Diagnostic Startup" mode (which only runs minimal services and drivers) did not quicken the boot time at all! I have updated all the drivers I could during this process, but still the horrible boot time persists. I even used the GigaByte Smart6 app to enable the OS Quickboot. No change.
You never said if I should be expecting to see the OS report 6GB RAM if it is running the 12GB of installed sticks in dual channel configuration, should I be seeing 6GB or 12GB in all the places the OS reports RAM sizes? (Not sure if its supposed to, but when I ran dual channel on my previous PC it did halve the reported ram when running in dual channel mode via the BIOS.)
On the topic of mis-reporting things, the i7-2600 (NOT a K) is supposedly 4 core hyperthreaded... so why isn't windows reporting 8 cores as it traditionally interprets the 2 threads per core as each being individual cores?
Best wishes, Niekell.
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I did remove the plastic from the CPU cooler prior to putting it on, but I did not clean off and replace the TIM when I later removed the cooler (and CPU) when trying to resolve the initial stability issues. In retrospect I should have done so to provide a smoother conductive surface with new TIM, but I guess I had other things on my mind at the time.
It isn't just about making contact, the old TIM will have cured and so not be any good any more. That is the reason for replacing it. If it is failing to do it's job you will get thermal shutdowns which is what you could have in this situation.
Interesting result from the Memtest program. There is something there that is causing intermittent problems though. Maybe bent pins?
You never said if I should be expecting to see the OS report 6GB RAM if it is running the 12GB of installed sticks in dual channel configuration, should I be seeing 6GB or 12GB in all the places the OS reports RAM sizes?
You should see all 12 GB of memory in the OS. This again points to bent pins.
Very carefully remove the heatsink and fan. Probably a slight twisting motion is best to release the two as the thermal paste can act like a glue.
Once off remove the CPU taking extreme care both physically and electrically(static) and place somewhere safe.
Make sure that the lighting is very good and even.
Now scrutinise the socket for any pins that are out of alignment, even slightly.
If in any doubt whatsoever take a couple of macro (close up) photos of the socket and post them on here for us to check.
Also look at the bottom of the CPU at the lands (little copper circles) and make sure that there is a mark in each somewhere near the centre.
If there are any missing marks or any of the pins are obviously bent then that is your problem.
Check this out first and if we don't find anything we will start looking at the memory settings.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
The "Bent Pin Search"
I found some slightly bent pins down the side closest to the rear of the board.
Straightened them as best I could, they really didn't look too bent in the first place!
Comparing the CPU lands indicated they were "off center" otherwise I would probably not have seen them.
(Macro shots, but with flash, so taken at different angles.)
Board Pins:
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_001.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_001.jpg)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_004.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_004.jpg)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_006.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_006.jpg)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_007.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_007.jpg)
CPU Lands:
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_011.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_011.jpg)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_015.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_015.jpg)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_016.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_016.jpg)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_017.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_017.jpg)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_018.jpg (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/20110123_018.jpg)
After tentatively straightening the pins which were landing "off center", I cleaned off all the old TIM and added new Zalman Thermal Grease and refitted the CPU and Cooler.
Boot failure! Clear CMOS and boot success. I still find that odd. ???
Since then I've reverted the memory settings to all be "Auto". I don't think its running in dual channel mode while in "Auto".
It is also running about 6C hotter than before (avg 55C at low load), which I wouldn't have expected with the cleaning and reapplication of Thermal Grease.
I've had enough of tinkering with hardware for now.
Thanks for you help Dark Mantis.
Best wishes, Niekell.
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I can appreciate how you feel at the moment and sometimes it is better to just walk away from it for a while.
It is weird that it is running hotter now. The new thermal compound will take a little while to cure but I wouldn't have expected it to make that much difference.
As long as all pads on the CPU have marks somewhere near the centre it should be fine. At least it is another possibility dismissed.
Next thing to check is the memory settings then. Can you get it stable enough to boot into the BIOS?
If not you are going to have to remove the motherboard etc from the case I'm afraid.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
Seems to get up to about 69C under heavy load. Thats still under the max spec so I suppose its okay. I can live with it.
Yeah all pads on the CPU had marks on them, some (3-4) were near the edge before I straightened some pins. All were still on lands though.
Okay, memory settings... uh... boot to BIOS... uh-oh... I think we have a misunderstanding here.
Whenever I say I can boot, it means I can boot into the OS and WIN7 ULT64 seems to run fine (no BSODs).
I've had the system running for about 12hrs today and its been stable and without problems.
So getting into the BIOS is no problem.
What memory settings would I need to set to get the dual channel ram working properly?
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Can you post the make and model (kit) number of your memory and how much of it you have installed please?
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Hello Dark Mantis,
RAM Statistics:
Slot #1 : DDR3 4096MB PC3-10666 G.Skill (Part Number: F3-10666CL9-4GBXL) 9-9-9-25 1.5V
Slot #2 : DDR3 2048MB PC3-10666 Kingston (Part Number: 9905471-001 .A000LF) 9-9-9-25 1.5V
Slot #3 : DDR3 4096MB PC3-10666 G.Skill (Part Number: F3-10666CL9-4GBXL) 9-9-9-25 1.5V
Slot #4 : DDR3 2048MB PC3-10666 Kingston (Part Number: 9905471-001 .A000LF) 9-9-9-25 1.5V
For a total of 12GB.
Update on CPU Temps:
Temps have come down a bit in the CPU since originally reapplying the TIM.
It went from 49C up to 55C when originally applied, but today it is back down hovering at 50C after a few hours of running.
So I don't know, maybe the TIM needed some heat to spread out and mould to the surfaces more smoothly?
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Yes the thermal compound takes a while to cure properly and reach the optimum working efficiency.
Take the memory settings off auto and set them by hand instead to 9-9-9-25 and set the memory voltage to 1.55v or maybe even as much as 1.6v if that doesn't work.
See what memory multiplier you are using and set the Uncore to twice the memory multiplier or to twice plus 2.
TYhe QPI/Vtt should be set to a minimum of 1.05v but will probably need to be up around the 1.25 -1.40v. You will need to play around withj this setting until you find the most stable.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
Apologies for the delay in response. Work has been... all consuming.
TIM seems to be working better, with the cores now idling in the low to mid 40s.
Took the Memory settings off Auto as advised.
Set the Memory to 9-9-9-25.
Bumped the voltage to 1.55v, but didn't seem to have any effect. So now it is set back to 1.50v.
Memory multiplier is 13.33 according to BIOS.
Can't see where the uncore (things like IOH Core/ICH Core/ICH IO yes?) can be set. No multipliers I could see for any of it.
The QPI/Vtt is set to 1.05v but while changing it, warning colours start in the BIOS at about 1.20v so I wasn't feeling game to go high.
It seems to be stable atm, but without bumping voltages as you suggested its really pretty much the same as how Auto had it.
I'm still see no evidence that it is running in dual channel mode, am I just to take that on faith? Is there no way to tell?
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Download CPU-Z and that should tell you what mode the memory is working in.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
Sorry about the delay in response. I just haven't had much time to "play" with this problem.
CPUZ shows the RAM Channel field as grayed out.
I'm finding this MB to be very unstable during boot. Its debatable when I turn it on if it boots or not these days.
(It should be noted that IF it does get into the OS completely and allow me to log in then it is quite stable and performs okay. No locks, no crashes, nothing untoward or unexpected happens.)
Right now I'm back on F3 Bios version as it detected a checksum error with F6... which it does often and reverts to F3.
I go ahead and up to F6 using @BIOS and it sticks for a while, still not consistent booting with F6.
My windows (7ULT64) used to boot in about 15 seconds to the login prompt, now it takes 3 minutes.
Could be the 31 "Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controllers" which are detected but unable to start.
The last thing in the windows post display is a Cyberlink Power DVD dll, but it worked okay on this OS with the last MB so I doubt that is it.
I can't speak for all the individual motherboards in the GA-P67A-UD7 production line, but the one I've got is rubbish.
Here I was thinking Gigabyte know what they're doing, if I get their best effort all will be well. So not the case!
Sorry, venting, not helpful.
Issues which I can't seem to resolve, though I much appreciate your help in the attempt, are
1) boot locking,
2) no dual channel,
3) hyperthreading doesn't seem to be active despite the BIOS set to say it is. (its a 2600 CPU, not K, but that is still listed as 4 cores 8 threads.)
Although the last two aren't essential, if I didn't want them to work I wouldn't have bought a high end motherboard.
Anyway, to summarize, booting still not working, dual channel not detected by CPUZ, devices cannot start due to incompatible drivers (it uses the windows default ones, and no 1394 drivers came on the MB install DVD), and hyperthreading doesn't seem to be working.
Sorry for the "scope creep" on this thread, really its only the first issue which is on topic.
Do you have any further advice? Could it just be a faulty motherboard?
I totally understand if you've had enough of this thread. Thanks for all your help up til now.
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Could be the 31 "Texas Instruments 1394 OHCI Compliant Host Controllers" which are detected but unable to start.
I would suggest disabling anything like that in the BIOS that you do not need to use and see if that helps. It might give an insight into where the problem lies.
As you say there seem to be a plethora of problems and that makes it harder to find the roots of them. Try and take things back to the most basics for a start and get one thing sorted at a time. As I just said disable anything not really necessary and see how the rest responds.
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Mixing memory may be part of your issues here, especially since you are mixing different sized modules. Do you have issues when you only use the 2x4GB set? Different sizes may also be what is breaking dual channel for you
Flash back to the latest BIOS, then once stable bootup and press ALT + F12 on the POST/Splash screen, this will flash the backup BIOS with the MAIN BIOS contents. If you have issues try a few times, and try the right ALT key instead of left. Some have had to use PS/2 keyboard to do this so you may need to do that as well. Hold ALT, and only press F12 once a few seconds after you see the post/Splash screen and you see that your keyboard powered up.
What makes your say Hyperthreading isn't working? Be sure you are using the latest CPU-z
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/12/20/2696817/cpuz_1564.zip
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Hello Dark Mantis,
Using BIOS F3, which I was reverted to due to a checksum error with F6, I disabled the On-Board 1394.
Booted up and Windows still went through the process of identifying and failing to start all 31 instances of the device.
I updated to the latest BIOS, now F7, and did the same. Same result, windows still ended up with 31 failed devices.
I've discovered an additional symptom, my Blu-ray drive no longer reads RAM-DISKs. It used to do so without problem. It still runs CDs and DVDs okay, I haven't tried a Blu-ray disc in there as yet as I don't have any handy. I used to use this DVD/Blu-ray drive heavily for RAM-DISKs and never had any problem. Now it just throws "internal error" messages to the screen in the OS. The only thing I can think of is that it is using one of the "potentially degradable" SATA2 ports as all the other (non affected) ports are already in use. Still, weird thing for it to do.
Also, since I swapped this SDD with the OS on it from my old HW to this new SB configuration I thought I'd do a clean OS install on a separate drive just in case something in Windows decided to go as mad as a March hare during the swap. Problem, I cannot install the OS from DVD. It fails 100% of the time. Not sure if its the BD-DVD problem as it gets past booting from the install DVD, then loads, copies its install files, and as the windows logo with the spinning multi-coloured balls comes up it locks. Give or take a second, it always locks. No way past it. Total consistent failure.
Hello Lsdmeasap,
I have tried all the memory combinations before, but I've removed the Kingston 2x2GB for now and will leave them out of the mix for the time being.
I am using only the 2x4GB GSkill set now, they are in slot 2/4 rather than 1/3, though that shouldn't matter.
I was of the understanding that RAM sizes were not supposed to affect dual channel operation as long as the channels were matched. The timings have been matched on the 2GB and 4GB pairs, which is what I thought was the important configuration to match. Having to match sizes as well is a requirement which I've not seen mentioned before. I can understand taking it out of the mix to try to resolve other problems, but realistically... theoretically... empirically... it should work.
Regardless, having just the 2x4GB GSkill ram in there, the RAM still does not allow dual channel mode to work.
BIOS is flashed to F7, booted okay (still OS problems with drivers), so I saved that BIOS version to the Backup BIOS using the ALT-F12 method you described. All seems to have gone well on that front. I was already using a PS2 Keyboard so no issue there, but thanks for the heads up. :)
Downloaded and ran the CPUZ version you linked to (thanks for the link), and ran it on the configuration above.
Here are the screens for CPU, Memory and SPID (Slot #2 and #4 are identical, so I only screenshot #2).
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_CPU.png (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_CPU.png)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_Mainboard.png (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_Mainboard.png)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_Memory.png (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_Memory.png)
http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_SPD2.png (http://users.adam.com.au/niekell/ga-p67a-ud7/cpuz1564_SPD2.png)
I'm just a little concerned with the CPU tab where it lists Processor #1.
2 Cores? WTF?!?!?
That would explain why windows only sees 4 "effective" CPUs rather than the 8 which I expected.
Why would it show only 2 Cores?
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Try putting the optical and SSD on the SATA3 ports and then try to install Windows. You can move the DVD drive afterwards if it works.
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I am not sure if dual channel will work that way, due to Channel A (1+2) having different size memory on it? But yes, for now please just use one kit while we troubleshoot.
What makes you say you aren't in dual channel? If you are using 1+3 or 2+4 then it's dual. CPU-z doesn't show dual channel yet, unsure if this is something he is working on, or just how P67 does things?
As for your CPU cores, go into the advanced CPU page where turbo and cores, ect are located and ensure you have set active cores to all. Also verify in MSconfig that all cores are enabled, in the boot tab advanced option make sure there is nothing checked or core limit set.
Was this a clean install on this board, or did you move the disk to this board? If you moved it sometimes this happens, that is why I asked.
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Hello Dark Mantis,
I now have the Blu-ray drive on the SATA3, and the fresh install drive (not the SSD with the OS on it already) is using the SATA2 driven by the Marvell 88SE9128 Chip (not the Intel Series 6 Chip). It got much farther but during the "Completing Windows" part of the Install process it BSODed twice and I haven't had a chance to do it a third time or switch the new HDD to the SATA3. I will probably not be able to try that for a couple of days as I have other things scheduled.
Hello Lsdmeasap,
Okay, just using the 2x4GB for now. I'm using 2+4. The reason I think dual channel isn't working is because my previous board had dual channel. When I put matched memory onto that motherboard and enabled it in the BIOS, the POST check would show "Dual Channel Enabled" and windows would only show 1/2 the installed RAM. (This was using 2x1GB Nvidia SLI-Ready memory.)
As you mention, it is probably due to the motherboard being different (HW and BIOS), but it still seems odd for it not to behave the same way...
I will check the CPU cores in the BIOS but each time I have checked them they have all been active prior to this.
msconfig > BOOT Advanced Options is set to 4 Processors.
This was NOT a clean install. This SSD was transfered to this HW configuration from my old HW (P4 Quad Core 2.4 Socket 775 with ASUS P5N32-E SLI PLUS Motherboard). I have been attempting to achieve a clean install on another drive with Dark Mantis' help, but no luck with that either so far.
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Use Intel ports please ;D
It's just P67 is why you don't see Dual Channel, they haven't named/added a few things to the POST/BIOS that should be there, you can verify with Everest Ultimate and I assure you that you'll see Dual channel. Here you can see when I did some 6GB (3x2GB) dual channel testing for someone a week or two ago.
(http://img573.imageshack.us/img573/4383/6gbdualp67.jpg)
You will always see ALL of the memory installed on Intel boards, dual channel or not. The only time you might see half is if there is a problem.
Msconfig should not be set to anything, it should look like this (IE Nothing set/enabled/checked), so if you have cores set to ALL in the BIOS then the Msconfig options may be the problem
(http://i.imgur.com/HocyS.png)
That system transfer is probably a huge part of your problems as well since it is such an older board/CPU setup. What is the problem with a clean install?
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I would agree. The only real option is to do a clean install each time you swap hardware. It can cause all sorts of other problems if you try the shortcut approach.
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Hello Dark Mantis and Lsdmeasap,
Okay, fair enough having to do a clean OS install. I was planning on doing it anyway eventually so no big.
I just tried again with the BD-DVD and clean HDD both on SATA3.
Failure.
WIN7 ULT64 still BSODs at the same point in the install process.
It takes the following steps:
1) Boot from DVD,
2) Loading installer,
3) Loading install files,
4) Asks question about keyboard layout etc,
5) Disclaimer,
6) Copies files to disk,
7) Unpacks files,
8 ) Configures system,
9) Updates system,
10) Reboots,
11) Completing installation.... FAIL.
It goes through a bunch of HDD activity for "Completing Installation" then just idles for a while.
This alternates, HDD activity, then idling for about 10 minutes then there is a sudden BSOD that I cannot catch the details of.
This happened with the SATA3 BD-DVD and Marvell SATA2 as well. No change.
I cannot install my OS with this motherboard. It fails consistently at the same point.
So now I'm stuck. :(
Best wishes, Niekell
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Have you actually removed the motherboard from the case and done a bench test yet? I know I suggested it but I don't remember actually doing it.
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Did you burn the disk yourself for the OS install? If so you may want to reburn it again, at the slowest speed you can set.
If you didn't burn it you may want to download a new install ISO and burn it yourself as your install media may be messed up.
Try this if the above doesn't help, or you don't want to try it until later on. Try installing with IDE mode set in the BIOS, using the SATAII Intel ports, then once finished you can change to AHCI mode and move to the 6Gb/s Intel ports.
If the install fails again the same way either your install media is messed up, or you have something causing a conflict. To try to figure out which I would remove everything but the CD/DVD drive (Now that I mention that, use a CD/DVD drive instead of Blue Ray if at all possible in case that is the cause) and try the install again. Meaning remove any additional PCIE/PCI cards, all USB Devices, ect just have your OS drive and the CD/DVD you are installing from. If it still fails, from CD/DVD, then you need new install media
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Hello Dark Mantis, and Lsdmeasap,
Part 1 : Fixing my SSD OS which is legacy from my old HW
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Originally I did remove the MB and test it with component by component up to containing all my HW.
There were issues along the way with the BIOS reverting, but eventually everything was installed and recognised.
I still had the device errors with the 1394 OCHC, no dual channel, and only 4 CPUs.
I just tried a different video card in the mix, as a few posts out there in internet-land suggested the install failure point was at the video card probe point.
Somehow that has resulted in the following.
1) Device errors with the 1394 OCHC are gone. I still have 31 instances, but 30 are disabled while one is listed as working properly.
2) Lsdmeasap has informed me that dual channel isn't being reported to Windows yet and to try Everest Ultimate (will try that and post back),
3) CPUs limited to 2 with 2 threads turned out to be a config layover from my previous HW, as Lsdmeasap pointed out I needed to turn off the setting in msconfig for the number of Processors to use. I did this and now Windows is correctly reporting 8 CPUs (4 with hyperthreading).
So technically all problems with the SSD OS which is legacy from my old HW are resolved.
Thanks HEAPS Dark Mantis and Lsdmeasap!
:)
Part 2 : New OS install with new HW using new HDD (non SSD)
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OS install... I've tried a bunch of combinations.
Both BD-DVD and new HDD (not SSD) are on SATA3.
I've tried IDE and AHCI.
I've tried SATA 0-3 Native Enabled and disabled.
I've tried changing the graphics card.
No BSOD anymore, but it just stops. I've left it for hours and nothing. Still stopped. I have to reset as its the only option left to regain control.
Install media is WIN7 ULT64 Install Disk from MS. It worked on my SSD install without problem. It was quick and clean with no problems.
From what I've read it isn't recommended to install in IDE mode and then switch to AHCI. It involves a registry hack to get AHCI working in the OS.
I was originally trying in IDE mode anyway, I only switched to attempting to install in AHCI today. Of the 7 or 8 attempts (I lost count) none worked, all halted and LOCKED-UP without BSOD at the same point the BSOD used to occur.
I don't actually have another optical drive I can try to use. Sorry.
I will try reverting to minimal HW but I am not hopeful.
I do not believe there is anything wrong with my install media as it is proven to install okay.
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Have you tried clearing the CMOS and loading the Optimised BIOS defaults between removing the SSD and installing the magnetic drive?
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Hello Dark Mantis,
My most sincere apologies for not updating this post for... oh man... six months!
I did resolve my issue, but I'm not sure how repeatable the solution is.
New OS on new hardware... managed to get it done successfully in the end, but the method was non-intuitive and I don't know why it worked.
Here's what happened.
I tried with minimal hardware, using an individual stick of 1.5V RAM (2 x2GB and 2x 4GB) each time. No joy.
I tried with a stick of the 1.65V RAM at default (1.5V in the BIOS) and it wouldn't complete the OS install.
So, as you recommended previously with the 1.65V RAM, I put it up to 1.60V and viola!
Not only did it complete the OS install, it ran the quickest I've ever had a computer run... and thats even without an SSD in the picture! :0
So thats the OS problem solved, and with the new OS install there was no problem with the devices detected in Device Manager.
I switched back to the 12GB of 1.5V RAM after the OS was up and it hasn't caused a problem since... however it is no longer responding any faster than any other computer I've used recently. The crazy-fast speed of the 1.6V RAM is gone. In the 5 months since solving this problem I have never used more that 4GB RAM, not even with a greedy Virtual Machine running, so I'm thinking about switching back to the 1.6V RAM to see if that is still so much faster... or if it was just some anomaly which allowed me to install the OS and will never occur again.
Thanks for all your help Dark Mantis and Lsdmeasap.
Kudos to you both for you assistance. Mark this one off as a success!
Best wishes, Niekell.
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Hi again and thanks for the update. I am really glad that you managed to get it all working in the end and in response to your question about the speed increase the only thing I can think of that would make a difference is that often less amount of memory will run faster. That is why overclcokers usually only use a minimal amount of RAM.