Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: glennforum on February 02, 2011, 05:01:15 pm
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Strange issue happening with my X58A-UD7 Rev 2. I had a Corsair Gold 1000 PSU fail and I just replaced it. Now when I turn on the power, the leds come one, fans spin up, etc...then it stops and restarts the power sequence.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
PS - I have removed everything in the machine except the CPU, DDR, video card, etc...I have checked all the plugs and everything is seated properly.
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Hi and welcome to the Gigabyte Forum.
You haven't forgotten to connect the EPS12V connection near the CPU have you ?
It is quite possible that when the original PSU went down it took some other hardware with it. The first thing is to remove the hardware from the chassis.
Make sure that you observe anti-static precautions.
Lay some cardboard or use the motherboard box that is non-conductive on the worktop and remove the motherboard/CPU/heatsink/fan/buzzer/one stick of memory and PSU from the case and put it on the cardboard.
Add the keyboard and now I know you haven't got any graphics but try and boot.
The system should try and then fail emitting a series of beeps. Please post what sounds it makes.
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Dark Mantis - I knew you would come to my rescue :)
Thanks for the reply and suggestions I will work through the process and report back. However I made a mistake on my title: It is a Cooler Master Silent Gold 1000w PSU not Corsair. Sorry about that.
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No problem really very similar. ;) Sorted now anyway! ;D
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Ok this PSU has two sets of CPU 4+4 connectors. I have done the following:
I have 1 memory stick installed. Kingston DDR3 HyperX, 2gig
Unplugged the CPU power connectors, now it just lights up and states 88 for error code on mb. Doesn't post nor does it loop cycle.
I tried the other CPU power connectors and the same startup for a couple of seconds and then it power cycles over and over again. Showing 88 code while power is coming up. Fans, etc all work.
I have not completely taken apart my chasis i have a complex water cooling setup and it will take me a couple of hours to remove everything and get it setup in a test bench scenario.
Is this type of behavior a result of some form of short or is there another indicator of what hardware is affected? It is interesting that this only happens when the CPU power is plugged in however I can see having power to the CPU opens up a more complex post cycle.
Do you think that I could have a defective replacement PSU? I know I am trying to cut a corner here by not taking the entire machine apart - for me if I have to do that I will probably just go with a new sandy bridge solution...LOL but there are still too many bugs.
Also in none of the tests do I have any beeps whatsoever.
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Forgive me if I have the wrong end of the stick buit are you only inserting 1 x 4 pin 12v connector at a time?
Make sure that your buzzer is mounted the right way round as they are polarity concious.
Is this type of behavior a result of some form of short or is there another indicator of what hardware is affected?
That was why I advised taking it out of the case. I cna appreciate you not wanting to though as I water cool my complete system and know what a pain it can be. I am afraid you wont be able to buy a SandyBridge system though as Intel has recalled them all due to the problem with the SATA on the chip.
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I am inserting both plugs in the cpu power. There are two 4 pin connectors that I am plugging in. This PSU seems to have 2 sets of 4+4 connectors and I have tried both of them.
I don't follow what you mean by "buzzer"
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Oh ok. I see what you mean.
You have to install a buzzer (speaker on older systems) to hear the POST code beeps. Have you not got one installed?
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Thanks for the continued help, patience and clarification. I have not specifically installed a speaker...however I do hear a beep when I used to boot up.
But I am sure I have a speaker somewhere around here I can wire in...I have a large graveyard of machines... :)
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It has to connect to the two outside pins on the spkr connection of the Front Panel Connector It is in the manual if you need it.
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Ok figured out what I need to do on the front panel header. I actually ordered a speaker and it will be here in a couple of days. I actually remember this but haven't had to use one for my last several builds...but it will be handy to have.
I will buzz (no pun intended) you back once I have it installed... Thanks again!
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Yes very useful litlte tool for faultfinding. Can save hours of wasted time. ;)
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Funny I begin to really think about my past builds and I remembered a build from about 7 years ago I needed an internal speaker to diagnose. Went out found the old box and there was a beautiful $2 internal speaker.
Needless to say I hooked it up. 1 beep each time the power loops in cycle.
No beeps if CPU power is not connected.
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Well one beep is normal for a completed POST.
Is it a short or long beep ?
Nothing wil work without the 12v connection.
OK we will try this next as it is getting a bit late here now and so I will call it a day.
Follow these instruction to the letter please.
The next thing to try is to clear the CMOS.
Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least thirty minutes before replacing it.
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Opimised BIOS Defaults.
Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self and then press F10 to save and exit.
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Just a short beep.
I followed your instructions - thanks.
Still same loop...starts to power up, everything comes on, leds, etc and it shuts off and tries to cycle again.
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Can you make certain that the waterblock on the CPU is functioning properly and seated securely still. The only other reason I can think of for it doing this is if the CPU is going into thermal shutdown and then restarting. So make sure that your cooling system is working and the water is flowing through the waterblock sufficiently.
If it is then we have come to the point where we really need to remove the board from the chassis and check for a short.
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Thanks for the reply. I have checked the waterblock and it is on securely. In the past on this build I had a pump stop working and I would experience the automatic shutdown but the machine would still boot and then shut down.
I will take the build apart and get back to you.
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Remember if you take the waterblock off the CPU to clean both surfaces and then re apply a small amount of thermal compound.
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Hi DM,
I am back...lol. This has been an insane road I am trying to solve this issue. Very strange indeed.
I have pretty much replaced EVERYTHING...I mean everything. mb, cpu, ram, psu, water cooling, etc... and I am still having this strange problem. I must be missing something.
Here is where I am now.
When it boots it goes through the following sequence (I think I have everything noted some of these codes go by fast).
C1
something
C1
C3
02
18
25
26
29
26
2D
33
49
50
6F
then is power cycles. I can see the post screen (hit tab) and it shows the memory and cpu but then just cycles the power and starts over.
I have 1 stick of DDR3 in.
I have a stock pci video card in
not floppies connected, no hard drives, no rom drives.
I have ocz pci revo card installed to boot from.
I must be missing something here...this is truly driving me nuts but the upside once I figure this out I have enough to build another machine...
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Hi again
Have you made sure that you have set the floppy drive to "none" in the BIOS ?
If that doesn't help try removing the Revodrive and replacing it with a magnetic disk drive and see if that makes a difference.
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I can't even get into the bios. I can try a regular hard drive to see what happens.
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Yes I think that would be a good first step.
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I removed the revo card and hooked up a standard sata drive. Same process. Goes through the post codes and re-cycles...
The gigabyte "splash" screen for the bios pops up and recycles about 3 seconds after that shows.
I am at a complete loss any other suggestions?
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It is strange that you have problems with the Cooler Master 1000 Watt, I have one in there as well as you can see in my specs, I never had problems with the start up or install. It can be that your BIOS is stuck in a loop, I had that with another Gigabyte Motherboard. Perhaps you need to ask Customer support if they can piggyback the BIOS on the board and reflash it for you. That's what they did with mine. So you might have to RMA it for that. Or if you live in England go to their Address with the board which I did and they did it there and then. Either way works I suppose, ;-)
KJ
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Oh and Code 88 does not exist. It could be 89h or 8Bh, please look in the back of your manual for explanation.
Why do you have the WD's Black in RAID 0 and 1, it is well known that the NEC chip is not happy with RAID with the Western Digitals. Put them in AHCI, that works fine. I understand you want have Fault tolerance, but that is still not resolved as far as I know with these NEC chips. I have them AHCI. Works fine. Get a Good External HDD and back up there with a proper back up program. There are many on the market.
KJ
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Thanks for the comments. This is the second motherboard and I am also using a silverstone psu in these tests. I have a bench and have tested both psu's they are fine.
I have another identical configuration setup and have had some problems with the WD's on raid 1 - it goes into a rebuild state and always corrects itself.
The machine are boot off the revo pci card, my primary works files are on the raid 0 setup and the second set of raid 1 is a temporary spot for real-time backup. Those files are then simultaneously backed up with a synology nas and to our cloud backup system.
I actually don't even need them in raid 1...I could just go to a single drive and skip the raid. That is really good info...thanks.
I have built machines for many years and I just can't believe the issues around this particular situation. I am at the point of just swapping to another mb manufacturer and building a new machine.
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88 does exist, and see my comments additions about it here at the end of this thread
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/39229-gigabyte-award-x58-bios-led-debug-codes.html
Have you tried an extended Clear CMOS yet? If not please try that by removing the power connections from the PSU to the board, then press and hold the case power on button for one minute. Then remove the CMOS battery and press and hold the Clear CMOS button on the rear I/O for one minute, then let the system sit overnight and try it again the next morning or afternoon when you get home. Sometimes this extended clear works, not sure why but it does.
So you have new memory and CPU right? Wow this is strange!
What CPU do you have now? It may not be supported by the BIOS version installed possibly, mentioned in correlation with 89/b8/68 in the above link
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Howdy LSD,
I was not aware that code 88 was existing, because it was not mentioned in the manual in the back. Perhaps maybe because it is reserved or unused. What does it do then ? You say 88 is dead CPU, but can also be dead/incompatible PSU or dead motherboard.
Apparantly you can't boot up a Board with a dead PSU at all and he says his PSU's are ok...the Cooler Master 1000 watt Professional Gold Series is not incompatible either, because I got one installed in mine. Ummm can you boot up a dead motherboard or a dead CPU ? Never had one, so I can't tell. I have only killed one Samsung HDD in 27 years. Oh and 2 Ballistix RAM sticks now. (still not sure if I killed them myself, they just don't seem to work anymore) Would be interesting to know.
KJ
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Hi LSD,
Thanks for the suggestions and comments.
I picked up a cheap i7-960 to eliminate the potential problem with the 980. I have basically purchased ALL new replacement parts at this point.
It should be noted that I have an identical machine running with the same parts fine and mine was running for a period of time as well.
I will do a "hard" clear of the cmos and give it a go tomorrow to see what happens and will report back.
Thanks to all of you guys for your help and ideas. It is appreciated.
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Tried the hard reset of CMOS and let it rest overnight with no battery.
No go...same problem. Back to square 1.
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Just as along shot try removing your mouse and keyboard and then try and boot.
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Tried that as well...only thing I haven't tried is plugging in an actual ps2 style keyboard...I was thinking of picking one up!
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Hey Glenn,
There are adaptors for USB to PS2, it might be cheaper to get one from Amazon, here is a picture of it.
http://www.amazon.com/NEW-KEYBOARD-USB-ADAPTER-CONVERTER/dp/B000S63012/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1304988142&sr=1-4
KJ
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great suggestion I actually have those adapters...I didn't think of that. If this doesn't work...then I am going to proceed as a new build and get the MSI motherboard and see what happens. For years I haven't had any problems but over the last couple of years both ASUS and Gigabyte I think are slipping a little. The rock solid realiability just isn't what it used to be. Just my two cents from my many hours of spilled blood....
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I think that often with these sorts of problems it is brought on by the amalgamation of all the various components brought together. They all have their own tolerances during manufacture and that is why two identical systems will behave differently.