Official GIGABYTE Forum
Overclocking, Benching, Events, Tweaking & Modding => Overclocking motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: WarYur on May 23, 2011, 10:18:58 am
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So now that I have tentatively decided to install a smaller radiator into my Corsair 800D case for in between the two GTX 480 video cards I have, does anyone have a suggestion for one that might especially be a good one for this or that would be best for my case in particular? I have seen some people installing a rad down on the bottom of the case on the opposite side of where the PSU is but that takes quite a bit of modding the case to be able to install one there.
Then would it be that great of a benefit to have one there?
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Hi WarYur
Yes I do think that if you are runing a multi card setup then to have a single radiator in the loop between tha cards is a good idea. Otherwise ther eis a lot of heat going through form the CPU, Northbridge, top GPU before it even gets to the bottom card. An intermediate cooling solution would definitely help. I would be looking to use a single low restricted rad like a Black Ice and just situate it inside or outside the rear 120mm fan.
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Sounds good if it will fit. What are you planning on cooling with it?
Alternatively you could mount the radiator on the back of the case using a mounting bracket. This is my setup:
(http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb233/badbonji/PC.jpg)
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Hey Badbonji it's looking a bit crowded in there now! No wonder the radiator's been tagged on the back. ;D
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Thanks DM! I believe that And yes that is one of my concerns too is over crowding everything and then too my three fan rad (or actually 6 fan because that will be a push/pull up there) will be on the top of the 800D. Thanks for the suggestion though Badbonjii. I have seen the way Koolance has a set up to attach the rad/fan assembly back there but I also have space issues to think about as my apartment is not all that big for a one bedroom so where a dining table should go is a larger desk for this build and then another place for my old rig and the laptop.
I really want to concentrate on having minimal cables showing as well, and then the ones that do show will be sleeved. I already have most of that done. Since it was the first time I had done that is was slow going.
You know I was actually looking on frozencpu last night and one of the rads I was looking at was that Black Ice single as well as some other ones for placement in that back fan space. I can go for 140mm back there too and probably another push pull for optimal air through the rad.
This rig ought to look really sweet if I can pull it off. Not to mention faaaaassst! ;D
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I am sure that it will be tremendous! It is always a problem trying to fit ewverything in nice and neatly. I have had to put one of my radiators on top of my system. It's only a dual but it does give me a bit more space.
I have just starterd reviewing a nice Phobya cooling system that I will post once completed. I think you will like it! :)
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Cool! I'll check back later. Do you get to keep the products you review?
EDIT: Just got through doing some drawing and trying to figure out how that will work with the two cards below the rad/fan assembly and it kindof looks like something out of Dr. Seuss. LOL... I think it will work though with the right hardware in there. I sure hope that the tubing i have (Alphacool Pro UV blue 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD) has a bit of bend in it though.
DM says; "Otherwise there is a lot of heat going through form the CPU, Northbridge, top GPU"
From an earlier post didn't you say that I probably wouldn't need cooling through the NB. Am I wrong in that and should I include the NB then? Not a problem if I should but I like the board the way it sits right now as far as the color scheme but then I guess a black NB water block wouldn't be too bad if they are making them for this board which I wouldn't doubt that someone is. It's just going to be REALLY crowded in there then...
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Hey Badbonji it's looking a bit crowded in there now! No wonder the radiator's been tagged on the back. ;D
Yeah that was taken before any attempt at hiding cables. Now it looks more like http://www.nextnature.net/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/cable-art-530.jpg
My CPU PSU cable is a little too short to hide, and the HD5970 is too long so that I cannot do much with hiding the tubing :/
I think DM said the heat would be pushed through the radiator being mounted elsewhere? So it wouldn't be as effective at keeping the water temperature down. That is what I understood it as anyway...
I believe NB blocks can be very restrictive on flow. I don't think you will gain that much benefit cooling it with water anyway. You will have to take pics when it is done! I can't quite imagine how it will end up looking :)
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LOL, TOO funny! Hey I had one of those too! About 3 builds ago and it still looks like that although I have to clean it up now as I am giving it to someone that needs a PC. It has an AMD FX 60 CPU in it and a nvidia 6800 Ultra vid card and a lot of the very first Koolance solutions in it that were plastic of some sort. That one in particular is extremely difficult to clean though as the Koolance all in one rad/res/pump was built into the top of an old Lian Li so trying to get the dust out was a real special treat. I finally had to buy an air compressor to get it cleaned out properly.
Anyway, I have a Corsair 800D full tower case, a three fan rad that will go on the top and then have another set of fans underneath the rad, the mobo is the Gbyte P67A-UD7-B3, CPU Intel 2600K, 2 x EVGA GTX 480's (SC), 16GB (4 X 4GB) Corsair Vengeance RAM), now adding a Black Ice single rad on the back fan and will have 2 x 140mm fans to do another push/pull like the one on top. This is a huge case so it won't be too bad. CPU over to the top right most hole in the Koolance water block and then out the left hand hole to the right hand side of the single rad on the back.
Then out the left hand side of the single rad over to the first hole on the bottom Koolance water block, then out the other side of the block to the res, out the res directly to the 3 fan rad and there ya go. As I said I will probably get some specific pieces of hardware (nozzles, barbs, etc) to do it with as there will be some tight angles that the tubing won't go for without. There seems to be just enough room in the front of those cards to be able to put that line from the single rad to the bottom first hole of the water block too if you are having a hard time seeing it still.
I sure wish that they (whoever "they" are) made all black hardware becasue I plan on have at least a minimum of 2 sets of Koolance quick disconnects that will give me some play when it comes to taking out the video cards without having to tear the entire thing down and start over again. Those are all silver colored as well as most of the angled swivel nozzles that I have seen and I really did like the all black with the Alphacool UV Blue tubing that i bought. LOL, Only the Big Guy in the Sky knows how this will all end up though because what I am seeing is kindof a ballpark view of what I want to have happen.
The top fans are (6 of them) 120mm Yate Loons (D12H-12(F) UV blue, and the other case fans that are 140mm have been swapped out for Aero Cool Shark Blue with Blue LED 140mm. The fans on the front and back of the single rad will be that same fan too. Also for the case fans I will have black 140mm fan grills and on anything on the outside as far as fans go they will all have the mesh type fan grills becasue for some reason the end of my apartment where all my PC's are gets very, very dusty. That is odd all by itself because it's my living room and looking outside is just the parking lot and more apartment buildings and on the other end of my apartment where my bedroom is and where the main road passes by with all the cars and dump trucks, etc hardly gets any dust.
I know, I know, why don't I move everything to my bedroom right? 'Cuz besides everything else in boxes, dresser drawers there is also an electronic drum set that I used for practice back when. Actually you can use it for working too but it's much better as a practice set. I also have a huge Loudspeaker that I was using for a monitor when I was still playing. NO ROOM at the inn...
You are probably more confused now that you were before eh? You are right though the NB won't be getting any water, or at least I hope not! :o
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Hi WarYur
No I wasn't suggesting that you watercool our northbridge it was jsut a general system description. There are plenty of decent NB waterblocks around though that don't impede the flow much. Don't forget that there are whole board coolers for the more popular motherboards that make it very easy to watercool the complete system.
You can get most blocks in black if that is your thing. Check out here:
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/index.php?page=water-coolers
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Ya thanks DM and for the link as well. That is what I figured anyway. Black isn't necessarily my "thing" but with this motherboard in particular that is dark with gold tones I don't like the flashy silver colored hardware in it and the water blocks for my nvidia cards are silver Koolance ones as well as the quick disconnects that I feel are very necessary when you don't want to have to completely tear my system down every time that I want to add a part or upgrade something. I also have a silver Koolance drain (can't think of the word) valve that I may try and put out the bottom somewhere but I haven't thought that all the way through yet.
I did go and order a bunch of stuff from frozencpu.com last night though so I will finally be able to get this beast built. This is the first time I have built a PC with a sub $1,000 CPU in it but this CPU is also faster than any of the ones I have had before too. I can't wait to see what Intel comes out with in the next 5 years or so. I haven't totally given up on AMD yet either though becasue they used to be king of the hill for great CPU's. I still have an AMD FX 53 that was better at 2.4Ghz than the Intel Extreme Edition back then that I believe was running at 3Ghz stock, at least for gaming purposes anyway.
I ended up just getting the HK 3 copper and stainless steel CPU block becasue I am tired of waiting for that nickel one. I can find all kindof of the socket 1366 version but zero 1156/1155 anywhere in the entire world but then I would bet that there is one somewhere but looking for it could take a long time.
I sure wish that I had seen those EX video card blocks a long time ago. I like the look of those. You know what I wish is that video cards were made in such a way that the water block could be on top of the card as all you can see for the most part is the top of the video card with nothing but a circuit board that looks ugly. Someone should at least make some kind of cover for the top of video cards so that it would be more aesthetically pleasing.
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Actually if you look through the listing that I posted for you you will find they do a backplate that is somewhat more pleasing to the eye than the open circuit board. I did notice that my latest graphics card the 6970 has one installed as standard so maybe manufacturers are starting to take notice now.
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Darn, I guess that means that I won't be making that first million for inventing a "Forward" top plate for video cards. :'( It seems every time I get a good idea someone else has beat me to it. Oh well, back to the drawing board... I am surprised in a way that someone hadn't thought about doing that a long time ago. You buy these expensive full water blocks and they sit on the underneath of the card where you can hardly see them.
I'm not sure but it seems like you have to have one of their water blocks to connect the top plate to it. In the product overview all it says is; "TOP Acetal for EK-FC480 waterblock". I am going to shoot off an email to their product support to see if they are proprietary or not but yes, I really like the acetal black ones. They even have white ones! Just in case I ever want to build a totally white computer. LOL, I'll call it "Heavenly"
All by itself though they are including VAT, $21.06 USD. Ya, and then about that much more for shipping right? Ok, so I found the entire set up on frozencpu for $139. It doesn't look like I will be getting a top plate any time soon because for now the Koolance blocks that I have are working pretty good although I do need to remember to clean them up a bit more before I go installing them again.
I have to wait until the next best thing comes out, whatever that might be and I am not tied in to any particular type or brand even although I have pretty much stuck with EVGA (oops, can I say that on here?) and nvidia for quite a long time now.
Anyway, that is great and I hope that all of the water block companies start doing the top block and perhaps make a universal one as well. I will go and check the Koolance web site to see if they have one but it's doubtful. They do seem to be branching out and making black hardware and actually putting copper in their rads and the like. I think they have finally started to come around. I know their CPU block is a good one as I still have a CPU 360 on my Intel QX 9650.
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I am surprised in a way that someone hadn't thought about doing that a long time ago. You buy these expensive full water blocks and they sit on the underneath of the card where you can hardly see them.
That is exactly why I fixed a mirror in the bottom of my X58 build soi that the underneath of the graphics card waterblock could be seen including lights. ;)
Or of course you could use a benchtest unit where you can see the whole machine from all angles.
There is also the option to spray the blocks any colour you want. They don't have to be open tot he air as a radiator would so painting is an option.
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WOW, that is a great idea with the mirrors DM! I usually pick up on details like that but missed it on your build so I will have to go back and take another look. I would also love to be able to build one of those bench-test units such as the one that you built there but alas, no tools to do it with and even more importantly, no room. I think I could just go bonkers on building my own cases if I were able to have the big tools and a relatively basic
set of machines for tool and die work where you could build and improve upon your own water blocks.
Like that will ever happen and then I could throw cost effectiveness out the window as well.
I hate it when that happens... ;D
Hey, hows that review coming DM?
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Hey, hows that review coming DM?
Getting there but there are always things that hold it up. Photos done and build almost completed, then just doing the actual testing etc.
Yes it sounds like heaven, a nice fully kitted out workshop would be great. I was looking into a laser cutter and etcher but I just wouldn't be able to get the moneys worth out of it. Great bit of kit though.
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Now all I have to figure out is what to do with that XSPC res in my Corsair 800D case and then that Thermal Star LCD card reader/ and fan and temp display sure wasn't made for my case either. Not only doesn't the slide bars that are supposed to lock your front bat installs in not working but I will have to drill some new holes in the case as well. That dual bay res is along the same lines and at first I was thinking of putting in a fill port on top of the case but now I am not so sure about that. In order for that res to slide I will have to do some filing on the case and after trying to install the three fan rad on top I found out that the way I wanted to instal everything will not work. I didn't want to have to have the res over the top of anything electrical running through it but I can see now where I will have the temp/fan display on top in the front bay, then the dual bay res, then my blue ray/DVD rewritable drive with no room for another optical drive as planned. That's such a big deal there but i just like to be able to copy from one drive to the other sometimes.
I was having a hard time seeing how I would install a push/pull setup with the 3 fan (6 fan?) rad on top but after reviewing some of the spare Koolance parts I have laying around it became doable with some more drilling on the case. I'm not going to be using any of the actual Koolance rad/res/pump parts just the shrouds surrounding the fans part of an older set up that i had already torn apart but forgot why. LOL... Seems to be kindof foggy out around here... ;) I may need to run to the hardware store tomorrow though as I don't think that i have enough of the right kind of screws for all of this.
DM, do you have a drain in your system for when you are cleaning out the lines? I have one but I am not sure as yet exactly where I will be putting it and I also am sure wishing that the quick disconnects weren't silver colored. Does anyone besides Koolance make those?
I don't know why I am asking that since I am out of money for this rig and overspent what I should have at that.
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Ah, so now you are becoming a real customising water cooler! You can always tell when the budget nowhere near covers the expenditure ;D
Phobya do some quick disconnects but I have some and I can't say I am overly pleased with them. I think this is one place where Koolance does excell. I particularly like their VL3N connectors. They are really no spill!
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Ya and then some! (fundage). What me worry? I am really having a time now trying to figure out how the electrical end of this goes. Well, no more cable management than anything else. I will put the rad just underneath the top of the case, then a row of fans on the bottom of that. Ok, so far so good. Then I took the very top most part off a Koolance Exos setup which would be what I would call the molding. Here is a better picture on the koolance site; http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=1163 (http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/product_info.php?product_id=1163) You probably already understand what I am trying to convey but it's the angled part around the sides that are connected to the rad. It fits perfectly over the fans that go on the top there but I am not sure what to do with all the cables now except for maybe drill some holes somewhere where you can't see it and run them down the back side. Unfortunately I ordered the 120mm fans before I decided that it would be a lot cheaper to do my own sleeving and heat shrink stuff so had frozencpu do the it on them and they use some fairly thick stuff to sleeve the cables with let alone the heat shrink so that they are really stiff.
Would it be better to then take all the nice work they did off of the cables leaving them more pliable? Also in order to be able to raise and lower the fan speeds on the rad I am not exactly sure how I am supposed to wire it, I guess since there is one of the small three pin connections on each fan and then one male and one female 12 volt connection then you just connect one fan to the next in the three top fans and same for the bottom and then connect that front panel temp/fan speed LCD readout to one of the three pin connection on any of the three fans on top?
Any direction you would like to throw in here would be very much appreciated! I feel like a complete dunce but ya gotta learn the right way of doing things sometime eh?
I do plan on taking any reference to Koolance off that top part too and perhaps give it a bit of paint to spruce it up a bit but I am not totally sure about that right now. It probably doesn't matter but those are all Yate Loon 120mm x 25mm UV Reactive LED Fan - UV Blue (D12SH-124UB) fans.
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Hi
I certainly wouldn't waste all the work you have paid for in having braiding done on the cables as it doesn't really matter how pliable they are as once fitted the won't need to move around.
As for speed control that is very easy. There ar evarious ways to accomplish this but a lot depends on budget and what you already have installed. Personally I would advise the wiring of them all in parallel as you will need them all to be going at the same speed always. You can get 3 into 1 fan cables which you can then connect to a fan controller. It might not be prudent to run all three fans form a single motherboard header connection though because of the loading.
It should look realy nice when it is completed. We will expect plenty of pictures. We like photos!
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Yes, thanks again DM, after posting this last night I figured out how to hook them up first together as three on one and then to the PSU and then the connection to the front panel fan speed control onto one of the 3 pins from one of the fans should work just fine. I'll do the top three on one and the bottom three on another leaving me 2 more fan speed connections on the front panel display one of which will be the two fans on the single rad on the back fan spot of the 800D. That one will be pulling air in as per the way that Corsair thinks the air flow should go and the top fans will all be blowing up and out of the case. There is one other 140mm fan just under the deck there near the motherboard and just to the right and up from the PSU that draws air from the bottom of the case which has a large mesh pull out that will hopefully catch all the dust.
I wish that I had more room in my bedroom becasue for some strange reason that side of my apartment doesn't get much dust or at least not as much as the living room does which is lots. Never could figure that out becasue the bedroom has a main road going past it and there is some construction going on (which really makes me MAD becasue it is displacing all the deer we had living around here!) and always has had a lot of dump trucks and semi's going through and the living room is right next to the parking lot and garages of the complex with not so much traffic going buy but that is where all of the dust comes from. Very weird...
Anyway, back to the subject on hand, the only real issue I am having now is where n the heck to stuff all the cables from on top. It looks like I will have to call upon some magician skills or something. Oh, that's right, I don't have any magicians skills. ;D I'll figure something out I'm sure. I think I just needed to hear that I was on the right track. I love this forum!
And yes, pictures... I guess I will have to clean my living room to take pictures. LOL, or something. I tend to have stuff all over the place especially when i am building so that I will be able to see everything available to me otherwise it's out of sight out of mind, which seems to be something that has come about i the last 7 years or so. Couldn't be old age or anything... :o
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Or maybe iot just gets to a point where there seem to be other more important issues than plain tidiness. ;)
Sounds like your wiring is getting there and don't expect to get it right first time...I don't think any of us manage that. I would say install some loose cable ties in the rough positioning that you wiring run is going to take and then you can add cables or remove them as you need to and then just tighten them up to tidy everything in the end.
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Know what you mean re: tidiness. However I have two long haired all white animals, one a dog (American Eskimo Miniature) and one a cat (who knows). The dog came down with hypothyroidism of all things and so sheds now on a daily basis rather than the normal semi-yearly basis. I need a ride on vacuum cleaner! Or just one with a clutch but I guess my dyson DC 25 Animal will have to do.
Great advice! I will do as you say with the ties.
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Certainly seems like you have your work cut out at home then with the two animals. :o
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Right, you don't know the half of it. More to it than I mentioned earlier. ;) Anyway, I get the rest of the stuff I ordered tomorrow so I am kindof excited to get everything done finally. I have company coming tomorrow too though so not much will get done on the PC end. I got that "molding" all cleaned up today with some stuff I found a while back called "Goo Off" becasue there were a bunch of product stickers on one end of that piece and then washed it all up and probably tomorrow I will put a light coat of flat black enamel on it so that it looks new again and doesn't have a logo on it anymore as well. I don't want that Koolance name on something I am building you see. No offense Koolance...
You mentioned the VL3N quick disconnects by Koolance in one of the last few posts and those are the exact ones I have and I believe also one set of VL4N. Are you using anything like that in your rig? AND, do you have like a drain out the bottom or somewhere so that you don't have to be turning your case all around to get all the liquid out when cleaning? I probably will do that since I won't be turning that full tower Corsair all about anymore although I have but it darn near killed me too.
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Yes it all becomes a bit unmanageable when it is all fitted together and full of fluid.
I have a very big loop that is about 20 metres long and encompasses three areas. I have to be able to disconnect the computer from the loop for obvious reasons. For that I have a couple of Phobya quick disconnects that I mentioned before. They are ok but not as good as the Koolance. The VL3Nis 10 mm ID and the VL4N is the 13 mm ID version I think.
I do have a drain tube incorporated into the loop, well two actually. It was something that I retrofitted after realising my mistake in not including it in the first place.
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Yes, I did learn something along the way, even if it was using the "toys" ;D It kindof bugs me though that Koolance is starting to put out MUCH better products what with actual copper in their rads and black fittings and such. I know that it is a good thing BTW that they are upgrading their rads and putting out nice black fittings and such but I felt like I was on the "Koolance Quality Assurance" team the entire time I was using their stuff and even had to pay for the products they were learning on.
Like the "O" rings on the L shaped swivel nozzle that leaked all over a nice sound card that isn't being made anymore. It was a Creative card but also had the front panel with tons of connectivity. Not like the ones they are putting out now. I could have recorded me (ME!) ;D on my electric drums and transferred vinyl to DVD and much more. I don't think the newer ones have that much connectivity. One of their reservoirs leaked on me, one of the water blocks for an nvidia 9800GTX + SSC leaked and had to be RMA'ed. I don't even want to talk about how much all that cost me either! >:(
I have read where their CPU 370 is a pretty nice CPU block too. I have the CPU-360 on my Intel QX9650. Now that CPU in particular was a learning experience too. I spent good money on the QX 9650 quad core and with the thinking that spending more would get me a better CPU since there was also an Intel Q9650 quad core that was quite a bit less. Come to find out, and this is well documented, that the cheaper version or the "Q" would OC to 4Ghz and the "QX" for the most part would not, and many, many people tried. It may have had something to do with the Striker II Extreme motherboard (Asus) too though which was nothing but trouble from day one.
Regarding the Koolance quick disconnects it looks like I lied about the VL4N ones. ::) I have two sets of the VL3N and then one set was the second out (Gen 2) which is the VLN2 (10mm or 3/8" ID). So, I stand corrected sir.
I sent off a quick email to Koolance a while ago asking if they were planning on getting the quick disconnects in black and will report what they tell me.
On an different note, which sound cards do you prefer and/or go best with Gigabyte motherboards. I have Logitech Z-5500 5.1 PC speakers and decent earphones/headphones but like to use the speakers the most. Sorry I "talk" so much!
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I think most of us have fealt like beta testers for some company or other at some time. You wouldn't mind if they were supplying the kit free in the first place.
I haven't bought a sound card of any description for years although I have had some nice Creative Soundblasters in the past. I know the onboard isn't quite as good but it does for most of my needs.
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Onboard sound isn't all that bad but I still like the extra oomph that you get with an actual card installed and then I guess I just got into the habit of having one. It's nice for games and then having the speaker system and head and ear phones that I do I really need a sound card although I am not all that sure why I buy Creative's offerings because their customer support has gotten me mad enough to want to be able to reach through my email program a few times and... Well it wouldn't have been good. I also don't like the way their software permeates your hard drive either.
I got my last package today so I am all set. That Black Ice GTXtreme single 140mm rad is a bit bigger than the Corsair H70's rad. I hadn't thought of looking at the spec's of the Black Ice rad when I bought it should still fit in that back fan space of the 800D but if not there I saw a vid in the computer case section of Corsair's forums on how to mod my 800D to install the single rad down on the bottom front part of the case.
I just got an email from Aquatuning that they are getting in the HK nickel and black chrome CPU block in but when I looked it said "expected" and that was it. After looking at the regular version of the HK 3 today I like the looks of it with this Gigabyte (P67A-UD7-B3) board better now that I have seen it up close and personal so I am glad I ordered that one now.
At any rate now I can finally go forward and maybe have some pictures by the end of the week or weekend all depending on the weather. ???
Boy it's a good thing I am a confident type of person or I would feel rejected about no one save you and probably Allen (and myself) using that poll I put up. LOL, HK is ahead by one!
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Generally the polls are a poorly used option as most people just seem to ignore them, or maybe they are frightened to put the mark on one thing or the other. I really can understand the thinking behind a lot of members...I mean it's only a poll. A bit of fun!
I use my 7.1 headphones when I am playing games late at night, otherwise I use my normal surround sound Logitech speaker system. The quality of the onboard sound, whilst I am sure not up to the dedicated sound card, is pretty good now and it does me well enough and like you I was gald to see the back of Creative's sneaky file system.
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Yes, I have a set of beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro headphones and a set of Westone 3 earphones when I feel like I might be keeping the neighbors up but for the most part my 5.1 speaker system is what I use the most becasue their bedrooms are all on the other end of the apartments. I should probably have my head examined for not just using the Westones all the time though becasue they have stellar sound with three separate drivers in them.
They are akin to having a stereophile quality sound system right in your ears and I saw now where they have Westone 4's out but I doubt if I will ever need to upgrade and they are a teensy bit pricey. Being an ex drummer though sound quality is important to me so I always get a sound card too. There are better sound cards out there for listening to music on your PC but for gaming Creative is ok. Sneaky file system is quite the understatement though...
So what kind of games are you playing? I am mostly into FPS but then I like other stuff sometimes like StarCraft 2 or the Fallout series. Just got through with Crysis 2 and Dead Space 2 which were pretty good games and looking forward to Duke Nukem Forever, Dues Ex: Human Revolution, and then Rage for this year.
This laptop I have is pretty good for playing games on with an nvidia 460M in it but I want my dual GTX 480's back up and running soon! I can't wait for the next best nvidia card to come out because I "get to" buy those. My rule is that I can get every other newest technology for the most part anyway.
Anyway, gotta go and re-apply some flat black enamel on that top part of the fan assembly or what will be the fan assembly and it should be all ready to go. I am still a bit undecided where I want to put that single rad. I was thinking about the back fan hole there on my 800D where their H70 would go but I also saw a mod where the guy put the single rad down on the bottom front of the case but I would need to do some cutting here and there for that to happen.
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Sounds like we have a similar taste in gaming. I stick mainly with hte FPS ones but used to be a big fan of the Red Alert series of strategy games. Just got a bit fed up with the more recent ones. I have bought most of the latest FPS games but haven't had much time to play them yet. Probably in the winter months.
Modding the chassis is something always best thought long and hard about before doing but is worthwhile if it makes for a better build.
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Thought I had replied to this but guess not. Have been a bit under the weather as of late. Still not done with the PC due to that but I did decide to just go ahead and use fan space on the back of my 800D. There is a video posted and made a sticky on the corsair PC case forums to mod the 800D for a single rad on the bottom front of the case but I want that open anyway just in case I throw any more hard drives in at some point down the road.
I have been having a time with trying to find the screws I need for the top of the case triple rad and with a push/pull array of fans on the top and bottom of the rad. The problem is that I bought some fan guards to go on the top of the fans and so need a particular size to go in there from the top of the fan guard through the fan to the case and then to the rad.
Thermochill included only 12, 6-32 self tapping screws that are only a 1/2" in length which doesn't make any sense to me, especially since they say on the instructions; "Be sure to use the screws included" becasue if not use something longer and puncture the rad you void the warranty. Now that makes sense but the screws they provided won't even go all the way through the fan let alone all the way to the rad. The screw I need has to go through the fan grill, the fan (25mm), through a neoprene gasket, through the top of the rad, and into the rad itself. The screws they have with the nice flat black rad are also silver colored. Tacky...
At first, by the way that the diagram looks with a set of screws going through the top with the wording "Silver Mounting Screw 10 x 1/2"" and the another arrow pointing to seemingly another set of screws with the wording "6-32 screws", I thought that there were going to be two different sets of screws until I looked onto their web site to see exactly what was included with the rad and found that is was only one set of 12 self tapping , 1/2" in length, 6-32 silver mounting screws. I didn't even think about looking at what types of fans that I should buy becasue it seems to be a standard to have the 25mm ones (120mm x 25mm).
Everything else is in place for the most part but just got high centered on the screw thing and then as I said have been a bit under the weather lately so I wasn't doing much of anything constructive.
All that said, that is my official reason for not having pictures to post as the weekend is gone which I had planned on having this thing done and playing some gameage on it in 3D. Actually Duke Nukem is coming out very soon and I bought and downloaded from Steam Red Faction: Armageddon last night and it came available to play today. Oh well, I will have this sorted out pretty soon but I have company tomorrow so won't get much done then.
So what would you do DM? Or anyone actually but I am still thinking of using a longer 6-32 screw (1 3/8" or equivalent in mm along with a washer so as not to go to the fins of the rad) that will go all the way through everything to the rad that will be just underneath the top of the case where there are three 120mm fan spaces. The reason I say 1 3/8" in length is because the screw that is the next length down (back) is just so too short to go all the way into the rad. Then of course I will also have three more fans on the underside of the rad as well so I will probably need the same set of screws for that as well. Opinion?
This is the rad I have BTW.
http://www.thermo-chill.com/products/category/radiators/product/ta1203-high-performance-radiator-15mm (http://www.thermo-chill.com/products/category/radiators/product/ta1203-high-performance-radiator-15mm)
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Hi WarYur
Hey man I hope that you are feeling better now and was just a cold or something you were suffereing with. :( Not everyone understands what a struggle it is sometimes.
For the fans it is always a problem to try and find some that fit. The "only use the supplied screws" is a nice get out for the manufacturer and if they positioned their tubing so that it wasn't under the screw holes it wouldn't be a problem anyway as the fins are not affected by a screw going through them anyway. I usually end up making my own size to fit. I keep a stock of M4 and M3 stainless machine screws and then cut the nearest size down to lenght so I get an exact fit. Doesn't take long. It is often the onlky way to find the ones you need like I recently needed some 65 mm M4 bolts for a build and couldn't get them anywhere so ended up making them.
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It was what is called a "flare" for the most part. Usually lasts a few days and pretty much stops me from doing most anything.
Anyway, thanks for asking and yes, knock on wood, I KNOW I shouldn't say this but I haven't gotten a cold in a while now but when I do, well you know.
That is exactly what I want to be able to do is make my own size screws, lengths anyway. Besides bolt cutters or something of that nature what do you use to cut with? Or did i just answer my own question? I was thinking about that in passing earlier today that I wish i could just make my own screws to fit my individual needs.
Of course those directions that some of the companies do makes me wonder if they weren't drawn on a napkin and then transposed to paper but with rarely any real directions save a few pictures and Thermochill's in particular where it showed two sets of screws which wouldn't have been an issue with me as I would have just assumed that it meant one set going all the way through but have two different ways of saying the same thing was a bit confusing becasue I am not up on what screw is what like you and others seem to be. Now I DO know what an M16 is! M3 and M4 though I will have to look up. I imagine it won't be too difficult to get it into my memory banks.
Since they only gave me 12 half inch screws and the picture has them going through the fans to the rad and everything in between that I mentioned earlier are in the picture, I can't understand why they think that a 1/2" would go all that far. You have have to have less than a 1/4" thickness of a fan to be able to use the half inch screw the way it shows on that piece of paper.
I believe you are right on the money though with their wanting you to use what they provide or it voids the warranty. If you damage the rad while doing it though. Like I'm just going to reef on a screw and not be careful and watch how close I am getting to the rad when i am screwing it down too.
Oh well, as I said, I'll get it sorted out. So what do you use to cut the screws with? My grip isn't that great anymore.
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Hi WarYur
Glad to hear you are better now again ;)
I usually just put the screw in a vice and then use a mini hacksaw to cut it. If you make sure you put a nut on first then when you have cut and files the end wehn you remove the nut it makes sure all the threads are cleaned out.
I also use a 1mm thick disc cutter as it cuts and grinds the end in one process.
By the way a M3 and M4 are not minigun versions of the M16!
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Ok, thanks DM, disregard the PM then... ;D I need to find myself a small vice to use in my apartment and I believe all I have is a regular hacksaw and I can see the beauty of using a mini one. I am sure i can find what I need around here somewhere fairly cheap though. I think the disk cutter might be more up my alley though and I may just have something that I could use for that. Thanks for your concern BTW! ;)
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Yes the "Dremmel" would work fine but it would use quite a lot of disks as they are very fragile. Also watch out for sparks when you are doing the cutting if using a disk cutter if you are doing it indoors.