Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: Störung on June 22, 2011, 10:17:03 pm
-
Hello,
since yesterday my computer doesn't seem to shut down anymore, instead it goes in sleeping mode each time I try. Have no idea how this comes or what I must/can check to solve this problem. Now I can only shut down via holding on/off switch some seconds.
Also with starting up, after the Welcome screen, instead of desktop loading, the screen goes black for like 30s to 1m before desktop loads. This is not for that long yet. Only the mouse pointer is on the screen then. Anyone an idea what causes this and how can be solved?
I also have some question about the Marvell controller but I saw the other thread about it and I need to read that a few more times and try to understand maybe I not need to ask the questions because the answers might be for me also.
Still I have one quick question about it. I had just ordered an OCZ Agility 3 Sata3 SSD and ofcourse read just to late about this Marvell problem. I'm not really sure about this anymore now, but did I better buy a Sata2 SSD? I only received it yesterday so I could still make use of the 2 weeks return right. Should I return it and order a cheaper Sata2 SSD instead?
Also since I build this computer october last year (my first) I have a WD 640GB Sata600 HD connected to the Sata3. I never noticed untill now few days there was no driver installed for the Marvell controller. The one from Gigabyte support didn't work then I downloaded it from station-drivers.com and that one did install. I'm not really sure if the Sata3 works how it suppose to now but I do get the impression that programs load and open some faster. I have also just via the Regedit set to ACHI and then in the BIOS set it. Do I also have to disable the IDE controller in the BIOS for Sata3?
I will try to set that ACHI properly next time I install OS (on SSD or maybe clean install on the WD for moment)
Also I do not plan to set up Raid. But I was plan to install SSD for OS and actually thought to have the WD Sata600 on the second Sata3 port. But I don't know sure yet now.
My build:
GA-X58A-UD3R rev 2.0 BIOS FA (I never updated it)
i7-920 Bloomfield running in turbo mode.
8GB PC3 10600 cl9 Kingston Valueram. (I also have a set of 6GB of this same)
WDC WD6402AAEX-00Z3A0 (Sata600) HD for OS
Samsung Spinpoint F3 for storage in dock of case (not always connected)
Cooler Master 800W power supply.
Windows 7 64bit
Gigbyte GTX460-OC-1GB (normally in sli but needed take one card out for not proper working fan)
-
Störung ... Welcome
To begin with ....if you update your BIOS to the latest on the Gigabyte site at the very least.....I would say there's a very good chance your problems may go away!
I'll come back in the morning with the others, might have to make a form letter/post for the Marvell, ... man Ive answered this Sooooooooooooo many times my fingers hurt!
Last one is IDE and ACHI......If you install in IDE, ... Run in IDE...... there is a work around to install the drivers and configure, but I'm not convinced to the long term integrity over Installing with ACHI configured in BIOS in the first place........computers only do "EXACTLY" what you tell them too!
If you tell it to run in IDE then YOU change your mind.........well you get the idea!
Aussie Allan
-
Thanks for answer mate,
I will do tomorrow when I come home from work, the BIOS update.... after come back with result if it's better.
Have to sleep now.
-
Ok,
I have updated the BIOS to Fg1, all went well. Though the BIOS changes I made earlier (change IDE to AHCI) are undone now because the Optimized default load.
The shutdown problem is solved in the meantime. I got that solved last night, but I don't know what I done makes sence to solved this. In the BIOS I setted the ICH SATA Control mode from IDE to AHCI. After windows started up the drivers for IDE ATA/ATAPI-controllers(Device manager) started install and AHCI controller. After this my computer shutted down normal again instead of going into sleep mode.
Before when I try enable AHCI via regedit way, in the BIOS I setted only GSATA 6_7/IDE CTRL mode from IDE to AHCI. I think that was wrong maybe? But maybe it explains the problem, because my OS HD is connected to the GSAT A6_7 but I had no AHCI drivers/controllers installed?
However, the black screen between Welcome screen and desktop load remains. Could this maybe have to do with that I have removed one of my graphic cards? I don't remember when it right started do this, not for so long though.
Could you advice me about the Agility 3? Should I return it and get money back and then buy a slower & cheaper SSD because the speed of Agility 3 won't be reached anyways? With the Marvell problem, an Agility 2 was maybe good enough?
If you advice to send back SSD and get another, I will reinstall Windows clean on the WD 640GB HD this weekend. I will use the MB manual to try install AHCI mode. But is there maybe some things you'd say to note down to certainly not forget do in BIOS or so before/after install of windows7?
If the Agility3 is good to keep, I'll just install win7 onthere.
Maybe intresting to mention also after the BIOS update automaticly the firmware of SATA3 controller started to update.
Thanks for your time!
-
Ok,
A) Störung ... Welcome again, ...good to hear you had some wins in the last 24hrs
I have updated the BIOS to Fg1, all went well. Though the BIOS changes I made earlier (change IDE to AHCI) are undone now because the Optimized default load.
A) this is normal and once optimized so your BOIS picks up all your hardware you have to reconfigure all the settings again IDE to ACHI, 32 to 64 and so on.
The shutdown problem is solved in the meantime. I got that solved last night, but I don't know what I done makes sence to solved this. In the BIOS I setted the ICH SATA Control mode from IDE to AHCI. After windows started up the drivers for IDE ATA/ATAPI-controllers(Device manager) started install and AHCI controller. After this my computer shutted down normal again instead of going into sleep mode.
Before when I try enable AHCI via regedit way, in the BIOS I setted only GSATA 6_7/IDE CTRL mode from IDE to AHCI. I think that was wrong maybe? But maybe it explains the problem, because my OS HD is connected to the GSAT A6_7 but I had no AHCI drivers/controllers installed?
A) besides the regedit method, if you install in IDE it works in IDE and the same goes for ACHI for ACHI, I would stick to the Intel ports (ICH10R) for your main :C: drive as at 10 yrs old it has matured to what it is today and will out perform GSATA and Marvell every time.
However, the black screen between Welcome screen and desktop load remains. Could this maybe have to do with that I have removed one of my graphic cards? I don't remember when it right started do this, not for so long though.
A) OCZ has had a run of updates almost right across there range addressing many hardware compatibility issues, ... this could be one of them, make sure it carries the latest firmware and it could possible fix this problem.
Could you advice me about the Agility 3? Should I return it and get money back and then buy a slower & cheaper SSD because the speed of Agility 3 won't be reached anyways? With the Marvell problem, an Agility 2 was maybe good enough?
A) I wish I had a dollar for every time I explained this one to people....The 88SE9128 version Marvell controller chip that this , and millions of other motherboards shipped with , across several manufactures never lived up to the hype supplied by sometimes, ruthless marketing departments .
There is a movement to attempt a fix for this issue but everything takes time. Presently on your board SATA III is not supported unless a PCI-E Raid card is added...........Sadly I would return your agility 3 and get the Agility 2 ... at least with the second , close to the Max throughput can be achieved on the Intel port/s
If you advice to send back SSD and get another, I will reinstall Windows clean on the WD 640GB HD this weekend. I will use the MB manual to try install AHCI mode. But is there maybe some things you'd say to note down to certainly not forget do in BIOS or so before/after install of windows7?
If the Agility3 is good to keep, I'll just install win7 onthere.
A) the main thing is to install the OS under ACHI not IDE, the best advise I can give is read your manual like a novel, front to back, this will give you a good grounding in any small problems you may come across and if aplicable load the drivers required before/during the windows install.
Maybe intresting to mention also after the BIOS update automaticily the firmware of SATA3 controller started to update.
A) lots of feature will be now active with the later BIOS update.........keep in touch regards the Marvell issue as you never know whats around the corner.........have fun!
Thanks for your time!........with pleasure!
Aussie Allan
-
I think I have a big problem :/
Before I wanted start on reinstall, I went to BIOS to check some things and look a bit to it. I did change some things, I thought not so important thingsalso because I was going reinstall anyways, but now my computer won't start up anymore.
When I push the power switch now, the computer starts up to shut down immediatly after; it stays off for some seconds and then starts again but nothing shows on the monitor and the CPU fan doens't turn. The other 4pin fan connected the the MB does turn, as all the other fans connected to MB. Only the CPU fan not. I notice the CPU voltage & temp LEDs not light up. The Phase LEDs are all lighted into red and I think DDR phase LED is lighted up half way.
I tried to clear CMOS (unplugging power cord, then press cl cmos) but that doesn't help.
What I had done in the BIOS what might cause this, in the Advanced BIOS features:
Init Display First stood on PCI and I setted to PCIE x16-1. I just noticed this up and looked in the manual and think don't I have PCIE x16 graphic card in that slot?.. shoudln't I have done this??
For the rest I was in PC Health Status wich I think I disabled.
Can one of these things have caused?? Do you have idea what I can do to get my computer start up again??
HEEEELP :p
-
Störung, ... What have done matie ;)....... check all connections twice........pull power and do an extended reset, pop the battery For the bios, press the BIOS reset button press the on/off button a couple of time for a second or two then make dinner.....Have wine and relax......very, very unlikely you data or install is damaged , good time to reread your manual again
One hour later, push BIOS reset button again..... put battery back in, and power up and attempt to get back into bios......and hit optimized defaults, save and reboot again............go back to Bios and configure as normal.........do you remember if you loaded the OS under IDE or AHCI.....set to what was there during install..............let me know how things go!
Aussie Allan
-
I have no idea :-\
Have checked the connections twice, don't see anything there.
I tried what you said but it didn't work? The computer does still do the same, don't think I can get into BIOS like this. It coudln't be that I killed my MB, could it??
When I clear CMOS, via the backpanel button, but on the MB near the battery there is also clr cmos with an arrow and it seems such a tiny spot to push with a pen in? Can that be? I haven't touch that though because I not sure.
I wans't busy yet with the clean windows install, but about to go start on it when no start up anymore, the few changes I made in BIOS before I was going to clean install windows was not meant for new install but just to see what it do. => something not good apparently :p
No idea what I can do, maybe unplug all cable and then replug but I don't think that is going to do solve.
I think I must try get someone overhere that knows little more about it then me!!
I'll keep it updated later on, going to sleep now.
-
Just to see if the board will boot, pull everything except PSU, GPU and memory out of your box and see if it boots.
Aussie Allan
-
I already tried that this morning. Pulled out sata devices (hard disk en dvd rom). Still the same happens. Do you also mean to unplug the front panel USB connection to the MB and other cables like HD Audio,...? Keyboard, mouse is all disconnected.
Would this be problem with processor? Because the CPU fan is the only not working and none of the CPU LEDs go on. Though the CPU fan starts to run when switch power on, but it stops immediatly as if it gets no power. The others connected to MB just keep running.
Would it make sence to try swap graphic card? Because the monitor doesn't come on either. I have another GTX460-OC1GI that I got out the computer last week because a not proper working fan, plan to send it back to the shop for let repair or place new fan on it. But can that have something to do then that CPU fan not works and no boot?
-
Störung
Sometimes no matter what we do......it is what it is!.......I'll get the Moderator (DM) to cast his eye over this post but I think your board was terminal when we met and now lives with the computer god :D......If it is Toast, Feel better that your board is covered by a gigabyte 3 year warranty ,....another good reason to be with Gigabyte boards, I'll PM DM and get him to give his verdict!
Aussie Allan
-
Hi
Well between the two of you there seems to be no stone unturned! I think before we condemn the motherboard we need to go back to basics and see what we can find out.
Install your graphics card in the PCIEx16_1 slot.
Do an extended clear of the CMOS by following these instructions exactly:
Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least six hours before replacing it.
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Optimised BIOS Defaults.
Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self like disabling the floppy drive, disabling the full screen logo, make Primary graphics adapter as PCIEx16(or PEG) and making the HDD the primary boot device and then press F10 to save and exit.
Please post back when completed.
-
So your thought the board just died on me?! Well, it perhaps must be something serieus when it's not possible to clear CMOS and boot.
I have a friend coming over in 1-2 hours, he already builds computers since his early teenyears I believe. Maybe he sees something stupid that I overlooked, or maybe he gives same verdict as you. I shall post his findings later on.
On the other hand if the MB died, I can keep the Agility 3 SSD, because a new Gigabyte UD3R now will have working Marvell controllers, that's correct right?
Again thanks for your time and trying to help solve my computer problems.
-
Yes! that is correct.....sometimes things happen for a reason.........could be the best thing that could have happened all thing concerned!
Keep us all post........helps us improve our knowledge for the next lost sole so to speak!...... and thanks DM again.
Aussie Allan
-
@ Darkmantis. Thanks for your reply again, I will try your advice later on. Going to wait untill my friend is here with taking the battery out for 6 hours so he can still have a look what my computer right does when switch power on.
If he doesn't find something, all that's left I can do is try your advice.
So later on the evening, I'll post how your advice turned out.
Thx!
btw Lucky I still have my laptop to can come to the forum!!
-
If your mate is good with computers, ...let him/her read the entire thread/post.......this could save some time trouble shooting.
Aussie Allan
-
My friend couldn't really find something either. But at first he thought it's not an unsolvable problem, then after he searched google and found actually alot of bad userreviews and alot of bootproblems for this MB so he also started to have doubts. He sais pitty because it still seems an intresting MB.
Though I should have maybe explain the problem different. The computer starts up for a second, then shuts itself off again for 2-3 seconds and then starts up again. There is no post screen, no video output so the screen doesn't turn on. The CPU fan does not run, allthough it starts to run with power up computer to stop immedtiatly after. And neither are there any (warning) beeps, normally if CPU fan not runs, there comes a warning beep. CPU phase LEDs are loaded full into red.
@ Dark Mantis, my graphic card always have been in PCIEx16_1 slot. It was only in the BIOS that setting stood on PCI. When I noticed and checked the manuel what it meant for, I thought I have to change the setting to PCIEx16_1 slot. Maybe I better left it on PCI setting? Could this have caused this kinda big problem?
The battery is out the MB now, still have to wait an hour at least before I can place it back and check if it worked to clear CMOS.
I shall maybe try to make a video of the start up with my laptop, if problem still not gone and the image is good enough I'll upload to youtube and you can also see what it does.
Update later.
-
Make sure that the BIOS actually has the right location for the GPU, PCIEx16_1. and no it won't have caused any problem long term.
The double start is quite a common occurance if the system has been overclocked at all. Hopefully clearing the CMOS will stop that once the Optimised settings are loaded.
-
It didn't work with the battery and 6 hours waiting. I could get battery back out and leave it out overnight try again tomorrow nearing noon or so, that's some longer then 6 hours, though I doubt it will help.
I also tried with both my graphic cards in slot 1 PCIEx16, no video output with both the cards.
I could unplug all cables and remove all hardware and then after place it back one by one to see if that would get me into BIOS?
My friend will come over next week with his power suply to test with that.
If someone has other suggestion what I still can do, I gladly hear to try out.
-
Störung ... Yes I've been monitoring all the fun and games! :'(..... sometimes you have to drop the heart paddles and just let it go quietly
It's not you, ... no motherboard should give this much trouble I'm sure you'll agree! ... by all means give the PSU a shot but spend your time pro-actively by looking into the RMA procedure and /or a new motherboard model that will give you all the features you would like to enjoy.
Motherboard are usually "plug em in and away you go".....don't let this little episode put you off, ....It might sound funny but RMA or a new board, .... build your system around the new SSD you have.
either way , good luck and let us know how things turn out... ;)
Best Regards ... Aussie Allan
-
Hi
Please check your PMs as I have just sent you one. ;)
-
It's alife again!! Starts up and gets in windows. It's setted back to BIOS version FA from the backup BIOS after checksum error.
It's surprising to suddenly hear a beep again and then see the Gigabyte screen. I had nearly given up hope though to see it working again, even thought that this method wasn't going to do anything.
Thanks to Dark M for the solution and Allan for your time and help!!!
I'll probably be back for advice after rebuild for reinstall :p
-
Hay ! NO Fair!........What was in the secret PM :D
Aussie Allan
-
Have no fear Allan, Störung will be back with the details shortly.
Just didn't want anybody jumping in during the technical side of fixing the BIOS.
-
Wasn't the old 20,000 Volts on the BIOS battery trick was it......... :o.........Aussie Allan
-
Well, I finally have time to continue on it.. I have just updated the BIOS to FG. I done update via @BIOS because Qflash gave a filesize error of the BIOS update file FG1. I did via option to download it from the internet wich last time didn't work. Also saved the updated BIOS file via @BIOS
Now I think I am ready to format my HD and reinstall OS after I set BIOS correct according the manual. I have to reinstall first on the WD 640GB Sata600 drive because my SSD Agility 3 is important to get firmware update before the OS will be installed on it. That's for later time.
@ Allan: When you get such a hardware failure with MB that nothing seems to fix it, you can perform a handling on your MB that will cause your system to start up via backup BIOS. I think normally it should do it automaticly (?) but for some reason it doesn't. But it's a handling not without risks so this method is rather not seen posted on forums. But if your MB would fail you know not really to have to worry because you are on the right forum to get the details on how to perform the handling. But you maybe already know this method (?) you seem to work with computers for job because you know quite alot to offer help on forums.
-
Hi Storung,
Glad it all worked out ok for you in the end and just a bit of general sorting out now to get things back to normal. Good luck.
-
Thanks for the complement Störung :) .... learnt to fly by the seat of my pants actually......no formal training with PCs except working in Mech engineering for 30 odd yrs.......software manipulation and implementation is still my weak point, ......but , working on it!
Great news you got a good result with everyone kicking in, .... don't sell your contribution sort.......you were the one pushing the buttons ;)
Aussie Allan
-
Hmm... already problems :-\
First when I wanted to format my HD via the W7 install disk, I got an error message "windows could not format a partition on disk 0. Error code: 0x80070057".
Then got back in disk option I see the disk is formatted anyways. It's empty then. The installing gave after the same error message.
I setted my BIOS the ICH10R & Marvell to AHCI. I left the Jmicron and Gsata2 to IDE. When I put them to AHCI also it doesn't find my dvd drive anymore.
+ there dissapear quite some IDE channels in the Standard CMOS features after.
I installed the last driver from Marvell via USB stick and the ICH10R from MB driver disk. For the ICH10R it doesn't seem to see the newer driver files on the USB stick.
Now I sit with the problem that my disk is not reckonized anymore in windows install. The screen that sais: Where do you want install windows.. there is no disk or partition to choose.
-
Well, finally after an afternoon nap and dinner and twice reinstall windows it seems good, I think. Not sure if system is faster or so.
The black screen between Welcome and desktop load is gone.
Now all the drivers installing becomes somewhat complicated.
Not sure if I have to install all drivers from the MB driver disk. Do I also have to install drivers of Jmicron controller and Gigabyte Gsata2 drivers, I left that in BIOS at IDE. There are no unknown devices in device manager.
I was wondering also something, they always say Firewire is faster then USB but with me I have an extern drive connected via Firewire and copying files to OS drive goes really very slow. Is there something wrong with it, wrong setting, wrong driver,...? 1-8mbs not seems coreect speed or does it?
Extracting utilities, drivers goes also too slow I think.
Going to continue updating and installing, hope occure not too much problem :P
-
*
For : --> windows could not format a partition on disk 0 or similar message as cannot find an install disk ...
I have also this error some days if i install disks connected to an old card 8 * IDE ports LSILogic /DELL ATA 100/4R
Finnaly i have found a stupid WIN7 install problem ( can format , can make partition but cannot install )
1 - remove in BIOS boot to USB disks as first disk ( in BIOS order DVD , harddisk RAID first disk )
* with WINXP i have never see this problem !!*
2 - start DVD install
3 - when requiert RAID driver i plug the USB key, i load driver
4 - after find my RAID disk and all is good
This error is because WIN7 test to write a removeable disk USB and cannot continue ???
Pierre
-
In my case, I had to delete the partitions and create new ones to get rid of that format and install problem.
After with my second windows install, I got a small new problem but suddenly with booting the system kept hanging at Verifying DMI pool, for some reason the BIOS had setted my USB stick as first boot disk.
I think I find out what causes the black screen between welcome and desktop load. It's Gigabyte's Update manager B09.1008.1
-
Ok, my windows is complete updated.
I'm not really sure if all latest drivers are installed but there haven't occure real problems yet.
For windows install I had my HD connected to the Marvell Sata3_6 port. I downloaded Crystal Disk Mark to test speed of HD.
I tested that on Marvell port 3_6 and Intel port 2_0.
The Intel port does give a bit faster results. But I'm not sure if they are good for Intel Sata2port or also there maybe should be better?
Performance specs of HD (WD6402AAEX):
-Data transfer rate (max) 6GBs/126MBs
-Cache 64MB
-Av.latency 4.2
-RPM 7200
-Av Drive ready time 11
Result Intel port:
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]
Sequential Read : 119.143 MB/s
Sequential Write : 114.373 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 47.037 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 82.850 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 0.637 MB/s [ 155.6 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 1.405 MB/s [ 343.0 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 1.447 MB/s [ 353.2 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 1.341 MB/s [ 327.4 IOPS]
Test : 1000 MB [C: 5.9% (35.2/596.0 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2011/07/03 13:24:35
OS : Windows 7 Home Premium Edition SP1 [6.1 Build 7601] (x64)
Sata port 2_0 (Intel)
Result Marvell port:
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.1 x64 (C) 2007-2010 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]
Sequential Read : 113.164 MB/s
Sequential Write : 110.960 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 44.752 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 66.845 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 0.584 MB/s [ 142.6 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 1.232 MB/s [ 300.7 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 1.285 MB/s [ 313.8 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 1.221 MB/s [ 298.2 IOPS]
Test : 1000 MB [C: 5.9% (35.1/596.0 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2011/07/03 13:59:18
OS : Windows 7 Home Premium Edition SP1 [6.1 Build 7601] (x64)
Sata port 3_6 (Marvell)
But what I get when I connect my harddrive to Sata2_0, it doesn't get find in the BIOS Standard CMOS features. It does stand back in the Advanced BIOS features in the HD Boot Priority as a SCSI Disk Device. When place it as first boot disk, it does start up though.
I suppose it would be best to connect my OS drive to the Intel port, but since my BIOS don't detect the HD in CMOS feat., is this caused by one or other driver that I maybe should have not installed?
In Device manager, IDE ATA/ATAPI-controllers has Intel ICH10R Sata AHCI Controller installed. Normally there was here also IDE channels, but they are not here anymore. In Storage Controllers I have Gigabyte GBB36X Controller and Marvell 91xx SATA 6G Controller.
When Marvell not seem to work with me either afterall the clean install and AHCI setting, do I put it back to IDE or leave it at AHCI in the BIOS settings?
Where do I go now or what do I do so in my BIOS CMOS feat.setting it detects the HD in the Sata2_0?
-
Well, building a computer is nothing to it. Installing the thing can be damned mindtroubling.
When I thought I made progress, now it seem to have fallen back some. :-\
Some things got clear to me, others stay ???
Concerning the SSD I'm going to install OS on (after done firmware update of the SSD) I know I have to set BIOS to AHCI and install the drivers prior OS install. I'll set ICH & Marvell controller to AHCI. Do I need to set the eSata & GSata2 controllers also to AHCI, when I am not planning to connect any device to those ports. Can they remain IDE and set later time to AHCI, or is it the same as for the ICH10 & Marvell controller need to set BIOS and install drivers prior OS install? Or can they prior OS install be disabled in BIOS if there is no immediatly plan of using those ports? (Testing my storage HD on GSata2 port gave quite poor result compared to ICH10 port with CrystalDiskMark).
One other question for now I still am having OS on WD Sata600 HD, it's set in BIOS AHCI, can I just change that to IDE now to see if IDE gives me faster system, and if not just put it back to AHCI? Or for IDE same as AHCI: want use IDE set IDE BIOS prior OS install?
Thanks for any information!!
-
*
If you use WINXP use IDE mode for install or others mode ( RAID / AHCI ) with key F6 and a floppy disk with the drivers
For Windows 7 exist embedded drivers in OS
Pierre
*
I have not SDD ( because price and not big capacity / not possibility to run in RAID mode
A long time i use 4 * 1TO harddisks in RAID 10 ( speed is 160 Mbits ) , fine for me
-
If you install OS on SSD with ACHI active.........odds on IDE will not boot, but it wont hurt your system to try what you want too
Some people like to install everything in the beginning with all applicable drivers during/after the initial install...... and if not being used immediately, turn them off in the interim.........this way there their if you need them
Gsata and Esata will both work better under ACHI .......not a huge performance boost , but better!
Can they remain IDE and set later time to AHCI, ? ...Yes now that you have the ACHI drivers install with your OS you can turn them on or off at your whim
(Testing my storage HD on GSata2 port gave quite poor result compared to ICH10 port with CrystalDiskMark).........If this is the case, if you have room, put them back on the ICH10R port!
Aussie Allan
-
Yes I would have to concur with Allan here. There is only one set of ports worth using for fast drives on this board and that is the Intel ICH10R controlled ones. They are the fastest and most stable. The other controllers are fine for single and slower drives like optical or data backup storage.
-
Ok, that is intresting information, it made me find some more information I hope I pick it up good all.
The storage drive gave +- 40MBs less seq.read/write on GSata2 port. But for one or other reason my OS HD gives 15-25MBs less on port Sata2_0 then before tests. I had saved settings before I tried out some things though, it made windows boot up terrible slow and gave worse test result for OS drive. The windows boot normal again after restoring settings I saved but the OS disk test stays lower. Anyways, it's just some testing for try learn something about it :P
I have made a little step plan for installing the SSD as OS drive. But maybe there is some more to it.
Is it best to start from a cleared CMOS for install the OS on SSD? Via backpanel button or removing battery?
I noticed 2 new beta BIOS updates at Station-drivers.com. Current I have FG, new beta's are FH1 & FH1b. Should I update the latest or leave FG?
Then my plan:
Connect SSD to ICH10 Sata2_0 port.
Connect DVD-rom to ICH10 Sata2_5 port.
No other disk device will be connected.
Boot system, go immediatly to BIOS settings.
There I put ICH10 contr., Marvell contr., GSata2 contr. & eSata controller to AHCI. (Enable port 0-3 native mode*). Check for other settings. Save the BIOS and let Win7 load for install. Then prior OS install, I install all the AHCI controller drivers (ICH10, Marvell*, GSata2 & eSata)
*I readed not to install the Marvell driver, then it would use the MS AHCI driver wich would be more stable. Is this correct information and do I follow this method or not? This hangs also together with the native mode enabling if I understand good?
Once that is done, I can install OS Win7.
After that, I start updating drivers (GPU, etc.) and windows.
Then if everything went good, I can connect my other 2 HD to the Sata2_1 & 2_2 ports (when system has no power ofcourse) Disable controllers in BIOS that are not going to be used. Install programs etc...
And I am ready.
I think I have it correct with this or am I on the way to mess it up :P ?
Regarding the drivers to install prior OS install. I do all these?
intel_msm_8.9.8.1005(www.station-drivers.com)
intel_rom_10.5.1.1070(www.station-drivers.com)
intel_rst_10.6.0.1002(www.station-drivers.com)
marvell_91xx_1.2.0.1003_whql(www.station-drivers.com)* unless better MS AHCI?
JMB36X_WinDrv_R1.17.63_WHQL
JMB36X_WinDrv_R1.17.63_WHQL_eSATA
-
Generally you seem to have the idea ok. The only thing I would advise is to put your optical drive on the Marvell controller and set that to IDE mode. Sometimes these optical drives can have problems with being on an AHCI controlled port.
-
Well, that was a bummer :P I didn't get any further then Xpressrecovery2 ???
No boot from cdrom.
Too late to continue on it so I unplugged the SSD and see further tomorrow.
Damned, I already know what's wrong.. too late & too tired results in f*cking with the wrong cd.. could you imagine. Instead of win7 cd I was trying with MB cd :-\
Better luck tomorrow. lol
-
Don't worry!v We all do stupid things when we are tired and as you say they seem so obvious any other time. ;)
-
Yeah, thinking that I actually saw the disk in the drive several time coming open with reboot, it didn't seem to pass the right signal trough anymore :P
Stupidly each time I went search in my BIOS what the hell did I set wrong?! hahah
Anyways, today it worked out immediatly.
Windows Prestation index scores it 7.7 wich I think is nice, not sure wether I must be thrilled with the Crystal disk mark test result:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.1 x64 (C) 2007-2010 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]
Sequential Read : 207.147 MB/s
Sequential Write : 145.172 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 195.785 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 145.443 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 25.931 MB/s [ 6330.8 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 64.980 MB/s [ 15864.2 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 95.685 MB/s [ 23360.7 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 142.747 MB/s [ 34850.5 IOPS]
Test : 1000 MB [C: 22.6% (25.3/111.8 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2011/07/06 18:07:56
OS : Windows 7 Home Premium Edition [6.1 Build 7600] (x64)
OCZ Agility3 120GB-OS Sata2_0ICH10R
Maybe it still gets better with updating and os.
Going have my dinner now. ;)
-
Great news that it is all working now anyway! Actually the reported speeds of your drive are not at all bad now to be honest. You would be hard pressed to get much more from it.
-
Untill now, I've occured not a single problem. Last night after I had done everything, I let Driver Agent run and I had all the current drivers installed but one, Realtek High Definition Audio, though I think I have the latest of that installed also.
I connected my other 2 HDD's also and ran a test on them. The WD Caviar black Sata600 disk gave a nice result I think. The Spinpoint F3 gives also normal result I think, it's result is after the WD result.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
CrystalDiskMark 3.0.1 x64 (C) 2007-2010 hiyohiyo
Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
* MB/s = 1,000,000 byte/s [SATA/300 = 300,000,000 byte/s]
Sequential Read : 132.146 MB/s F3= 118.927 MB/s
Sequential Write : 127.363 MB/s F3= 108.436 MB/s
Random Read 512KB : 51.334 MB/s F3= 28.108 MB/s
Random Write 512KB : 83.110 MB/s F3= 31.514 MB/s
Random Read 4KB (QD=1) : 0.718 MB/s [ 175.2 IOPS] F3= 0.286 MB/s [ 69.9 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=1) : 1.415 MB/s [ 345.4 IOPS] F3= 0.392 MB/s [ 95.7 IOPS]
Random Read 4KB (QD=32) : 1.596 MB/s [ 389.6 IOPS] F3= 0.397 MB/s [ 97.0 IOPS]
Random Write 4KB (QD=32) : 1.284 MB/s [ 313.5 IOPS] F3= 0.409 MB/s [ 99.8 IOPS]
Test : 1000 MB [D: 19.3% (115.2/596.2 GB)] (x5)
Date : 2011/07/07 2:20:35
OS : Windows 7 Home Premium Edition SP1 [6.1 Build 7601] (x64)
WD Caviar Black 640GB Sata600-Game/Prog Sata2_1ICH10R / F3 Storage Sata2_2ICH10R
I think it's better then any before tests for the WD. The F3 I had better results before, but it's just a storage drive anyways.
I've also done ATTO test on OCZ and that topped on 268.4MBs write and 241.3MBs read. That must be good for Sata2 port. On WD drive ATTO gives +1MBs on write and +3MBs on read compare to CrystalDisk. F3 in ATTO tops 120.6MBs both read & write.
I wonder if the SSD stay stable because there read alot of user problems with it. It does have a minor problem that it causes the OS drive temp show 128°C. When I first connected it to update firmware before can place OS on it, I noticed my WD drive wich was still the OS drive then, readed 128°C. Now my OCZ SSD is OS drive, this one reads 128°C. It gives this in more then 1 harwdare monitor utility. But it seems to be a common problem.
I think this time I did a good setup/install, it seems for now.. better wait some more days see if it stays stable. :P No overclock but the Turbo set in Easytune6.
-
Congratulations Störung ... job well done!
Aussie Allan
-
Looks like you have everything working there now Storung. Your drive test results are pretty good for magnetic drives especially the Western Digitals.
I suspect that it could be a stuck or malfunctioning sensor that is responsible for the 128C reading especially if it comes from more than one utility.
Anyway time to enjoy your computer now and banish all those lingering thought of throwing it out of the window! ;)
-
Many second party softwares for monitoring temperature / voltages .. are often bad or not up to date
I have always had this problem
If possible use always the software delivered by the manufacturer
Pierre