Official GIGABYTE Forum
Off-Topic => General discussions => Topic started by: sverkalo on November 05, 2011, 03:43:39 am
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Hi to all.
I just install the motherboard with my Nvidia GTS8800 and 16G of RAM.
Everything goes smooth but I can't install the Intel VGA drivers.
I need the Quicksync but I can't have it.
Any ideas?
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Hi and welcome.
I did notice your other post regarding this problem in the other thread. A list of all your hardware would be a help for starters.
Have you got the BIOS settings correct to enable the use of the onboard GPU ?
Have you manually entered all the timings and voltage of the memory ?
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Thank you. I am a director and editor known at avid forum with the same name. I build this mobo for editing. The usb3 esata are weird the least. I am no the run right now I will post everything right at evening. Thanks again
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EVery time I change the usb3 esata from raid to ide and vice versa the driver is being lost.
I have to reinstall it. ESATA usb3 are really a mess with that board.
I Can't unplugged the esata from the safe option.
I cant see the options for intel driver. The driver is installed.
VIrtu is a mess and it crashes.
however the system is stabke.
But what I really need is not working properly.
how I clear the cmos
what timings I have to set
I overclock it with the os tool and sometime is stable and sometimes isn't.
I mean around 4 g it should work with the stock cooler.
till some things are cleared I can not install Avid thus can't work.
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Right then. Remove (uninstall) any Gigabyte bundled software from your system. This should help with stability.
To clear the CMOS follow these instructions exactly:
Remove the power cable from the mains supply and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for at least one hour before replacing it.
Next plug back into the mains supply and boot.
You will now need to enter the BIOS by pressing DEL and load Optimised BIOS Defaults.
Make any other changes to the BIOS settings to suit your self like disabling the floppy drive, disabling the full screen logo and making the HDD the primary boot device and then press F10 to save and exit.
I don't understand why you change the ESATA from IDE to AHCI and back again. It is best left on AHCI because you get the benefit of Hot Swappability, NCQ etc which IDE doesn't give you.
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Thank you.
ACHI did the trick for e-SATA.
I get BSOD at my Nvidia now.
I will clear the CMOS and come back.
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Both of the chipsets are present. However the Virtu crashes.
And there aren't specific Virtu values at BIOS as at other mother boards.
I have set it to PCIEx16 and on board VGA always on.
Now maybe it's a problem that I use dual monitors for editing at my GTS VGA.
I am not sure.
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Have you manually entered all the timings and voltage of the memory ?
Could you guide me through this.
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And again after a reboot.
While the Samsung at my e-SATA is on the device manager
I can't see it on My computer so I can't use it.
Is there something really bad with this motherboard?
Should I changed it?
I thought it was a fine one so I chose this over MSI.
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Have you formatted the Samsung Hard drive?
Double check by going to Control Panel/System and Security/Administrative Tools/Create and format hard disk partitions/
You need to format the drive and give it a Drive letter before it will be seen in My Computer
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Thank you.
Of course I have formatted it.
I am having over 1TB of projects there.
The funny thing is that I can see the drive at the quick remove icon but not at my computer.
Something is totally wrong here.
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Have you checked that it has a drive letter assigned by going to: Control Panel/System and Security/Administrative Tools/Create and format hard disk partitions/?
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Yes I did. It's there.
I did remove the battery. Clear CMOS etc. Removed the software.
Nothing changed.
I will try a new BIOS update and a reinstall of W7.
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I lost 1.1 TB of media because of the weird behavior of the eSATA.
1st time something like that is happening to me.
Thanks God I have 99% backed up on BD.
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After Gigabyte formatted my Samsung disk (without asking me) now recognizes it fine.
At least for the moment.
I have never had such disasters the last 4 years with my old Abit IP35 Pro.
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Finally I got this.
Now I have to shorten out USB3 not appearing as e-SATA did (maybe it will erase my USB3) as well?
And the RAID Controller being absent at Device manager because of the USB3 not appearing.
This is a WD Passport that plays fine into my laptop's USB3.
Here also but from time to time.
We need better drivers for sure.
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And no more Virtu for me.
Intel's Quicksync is here and that's enough.
Until Gigabyte or Virtu shorten things out.
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Could anyone explain to me how the i7 2600K is faster at rendering and transoding inside Media Composer when it has a lower
OC?
I mean when I have it on 4.2 it is slower (and a lot) than when it's at 3.70?
But the temps at full load (when all cores are at 50% not even close to 80-90) are 85C.
I think this is too much or not? Should I re sit my CPU cooler (stock from Intel).
Add more thermal paste as I haven't put any except than that on the stock cooler?
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Hi
I can only think that the speed (OC) causes higher temperatures and that is what is causing the slow down of performance when transcoding.
You shoudl really be using an aftermarket cooler that has more potential than the stock one that is bundled with the CPU. Don't forget that more TIM doesn't equate to better performance in fact often the opposite. It is quality not quantity that counts. Try getting a Noctua NH-D14 if you want real cooling.
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So you think that adding more thermal paste at the stock will not make any difference?
What is TIM?
I just want to OC the CPU only till the point that is helping me to render faster.
I have had my Q6600 from 2.4 at 3 for 4 years only at the stock cooler.
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TIM is thermal paste and adding more doesn't help. There is an optimal amount, which is just enough to make a thin film between the two surfaces, any more than that actually hinders the movement of the heat.
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I have the CPU on 3.8. Not me but the UD4 automatically (using Turbo profile).
While at idle the temps are 35-40 when the cpu tops it goes to 90 C.
I can't think this is normal.
That's why I want to add thermal paste.
Maybe the little portion of the Intel's Cooler wasn't enough.
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And the only problem I have now is that I can't use my USB3 WD Passport.
Is there an older version of the Etron drivers that I can use.
There aren't older at download.
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I applied my old Silver Arctic 5 at the center of the stock cooler
resit the fan and now my temps are never go more than 75-77 on 100% load.
A lot better than hitting 98C.
At the same time rendering with MediaEspresso and Avid.
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That sounds a lot better now then. I use Arctic Silver 5 too as I found it works extremely well but it does take 200 hoursa to fully cure so you should see the temps drop even further as it cures. There are newer compounds now that actually beat AS5 on technical testing but I will continue with mine until it runs out. For processors the top one is Indigo Extreme. I have been given some by the manufacturer to review but must admit to not having done it yet :-[ I was waiting for a new motherboard. It does however take some care and time to install properly as it is not the same sort of smear it over the surface type.
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However after 20 minutes or so it gets warm again at 90% or so.
I bought a CoolerMaster 212+ and I will install it tonight.
Keep you informed.
Thank you for your continuous support friend.
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It;s all the cooler anyway.
2600K @4.4-4.5 full load note more than 70-72!
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However my memory runs at 1333 no matter what setting I am choosing at BIOS.
It reverts to 1333. Any way to fix this?
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I suspect that it is because you have all the memory banks filled and so you are putting an extra loading on the controller. This should be easilly fixed though by going into the BIOS and manually entering the timings and voltage for the memory. If you tell me what the default timings and voltage for your RAM is I will give you some starting figures. Also post what your QPI/Vtt is at the moment.
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Good morning there.
Yes they are 4x4G.
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Looking at the picture I take it that you are using Vengeance RAM. At least that is good quality so hopefully we can get it to 1600 alright.
OK, in the BIOS find the memory section and change the configuration from Auto to Manual then (only using the first bank the other will follow automatically) enter the timings 9-9-9-24. Next find the entry for DRAM voltage and enter 1.55v. As you didn't tell me what your QPI/Vtt was set at you will have to work it out for yourself. Not difficult just make sure that it always remains no more than 0.5v less than your DRAM voltage. So it must read at least 1.05v minimum. It can be higher than that but no lower.
Save and exit (F10).
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I haven't tell you because I don't know!
I will try and tell you back.
Thanks.
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I don't know what to touch here!
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Bump.
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Sorry for the delay.
The QPI/Vtt setting there is ok but it might be an idea to try raising it a little. Make it 1.10v
The other settings I have already told you what to change them to. Once done try booting and see how things go. Post back here with the answer.
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I did everything but when the PC reboots it goes back to 1333...
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Every 2-3 times I get a message that there was a failure to overclock or something and while
the CPU stays on the Overclock the RAM goes back to 1333... ???
I set it to 1600 again and after 1-2 restarts it goes the same.
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Please follow these instructions exactly.
I would suggest that you download and run the latest version of Memtest86+ to check your RAM first.
Memtest86+ http://www.memtest.org/
Insert one stick of memory in slot 1 and run Memtest on it for at least 10 complete loops/cycles and if there are no errors then swap it over with the next one and continue untill you have checked all modules.
If you have any errors the module is faulty.
If you have any faulty modules you will have to return the whole kit as they are matched.
Post back when you have done that with the results.
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IS there anyway to do it inside Windows?
I don't have time to do this.
However the system is very stable.
Editing for many hours @4.3!
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No I am afraid there is only one way to do this and it is the only thorough test of the memory and controller. If you want to be sure of your RAM then you will have to find time. Maybe you could run it at night times ?
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I downloaded Memtest. This is a Windows app.Would this do any good?
I am thinking that the RAM falls back because of the relatively big OC I have from 3.4 to 4.3/4.4.
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Look the thing is if we are going to debate everything I ask you to do it is going to take even more time. I haven't any experience of this program and you can run it by all means but I don't know how reliable the outcome is and so to me it isn't worth anything. It may be very good but it also might not be. It is your computer and you must decide if you want to fix it.
The overclock shouldn't make any difference to the memory. If it is good it should run the same as the other components and even if the OC fails it should then return to is't previous setting as does the CPU etc.
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I am not debating!
I always respect the experts in every field.
I just don't have the time now!
I will tun memtest and if I will find the time I will do the right thing you propose.
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Ok no problem. I appreciate that it does indeed take a long time to run the test properly and that is the only downside to it. But at least once performed you can rely on its output. ;)
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I will leave it for 2xpasses for each for the time being.
As I have work to do!!!
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I have made 3 passes at the first with no error.
The interesting thing is that when restarted it went back to 1333 even with one module.
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http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/46756-z68xp-ud4-cold-boot-memory-error-forcing-oc-recovery.html
I run into this which looks like my issue.
I will run all the tests as you told me but I am suspecting the BIOS is to blame.
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No problems at memory.
Today I found the solution.
Disabling the Profile 1 at XMP and setting everything at auto no more 1333.
After several reboots and today's cold boot still at 1600!
This is a BIOS problem.
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Well done in tracking down your problem to the BIOS then. Enjoy using your computer now then without having to fault find! ;)
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Thanks a lot for your patience my friend!
The only thing left now is the USB3 problems.
At the system start up (the memory stays 1600!) but my passport at USB3 isn't recognized.
Once I unplug and plug it again it is fine.
But this is annoying doing it all the time.
I hope there will be better drivers/BIOS unless Gigabyte doesn't care for this very good and solid board.
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I hope there will be better drivers/BIOS unless Gigabyte doesn't care for this very good and solid board.
I am sure that is not the case or I wouldn't have just bought one for my son for Christmas! ;)
Actually your issue with the USB3.0 port would sound more like a software one in that it isn't picking up the fact that there is a device there until it is re entered.
USB3.0 is still a new spec and seems to be having a few teething troubles at the moment. I recently bought my first USB3.0 device, an external hard drive port, and so far it seems to be working fine much to my amazement! It did annoy me that they only supplied a stupidly short cable for it though and I have had to purchase a longer one already.
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The same USB3 disk is working fine at my laptop.
Here at every reboot it can't be "seen" in my computer.
If I unplug it and plug it again it works fine ???
But I have to do it all the time.
I amusing 0.96 Etron... driver instead of the newest 105.
One thing more Mantis.
At CPU-Z the core speed goes from 1600 to 4400 constantly.
Like power saving. I am on the performance setting but it lowers and goes up.
However at Core speed is always there at 4.4.
And W7 reports always 100mz less always.
I mean if it is 4.4 it shows 4.3, if it is 3.8 it shows 3.7.
Are those "normal" behavior.
Thanks again.
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At CPU-Z the core speed goes from 1600 to 4400 constantly.
Like power saving. I am on the performance setting but it lowers and goes up.
Disabling EIST keeps CPU @4.4.
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Gigabyte send me a BETA bios to try.
It turns out that this is F4...
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Has the new BIOS they sent helped at all ? Although it may say F4 they might have customised some of its settings.
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I will work on it and tell you.
When the XMP profile is off it works fine.
I have that issue that has a partial fix and the USB3.
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Cold booted revert my RAM's to 1333. With F5 this wasn't the case.
Also the USB3 disk still can't be recognized at boot from neither BIOS or OS.
When I unplug it and plug it back it works.
I will continue to watch and if there is no good I will take the motherboard back.
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I took the PC to the reseller and they told me that the problem is that I am OC ing it...
Also that the USB3 are working fine.
They have tested USB2 disks on the USB3 controller and it worked...
But I use USB3 disks not USB2...
Clearly one of the worse buys I did from a company I have never used before.
I won't find any good at this unless Gigabyte takes that over but I am sure they won't do anything.
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Apparently one of the reasons for the USB3.0 not working often is a lack of voltage from the system. If you have a powered hub try that as it is supposed to supply more power and then it works.
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Isn't that an indication that something is wrong?
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Possibly, but you would first have to prove that the voltage was too low and that was the fault and then why and what piece of equiptment was responsible for it. :-\
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The same 1TB Passport WD works without a hitch at my laptop but when it's plugged into the Gigabyte board,
isn't being recognized unless I unplug it and plug it back.
Shouldn't be working right away?
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The thing is it is never as simple as you are making out. Let's for argument sake say it could be the fault of the PSU as thatb is supplying the power in the first place or many other items that coulkd effect it. I hope you see what I mean. It is possible it is also the motherboard.
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I think it's the motherboard's flaw because:
1) If it wasn't then the USB3 disk wouldn't work in my laptop also.
I have tested the USB3 (how much voltage does it needs? a simple passport) on the battery only with the laptop.
It works fine again.
2) At the new motherboards (X79) Gigabyte has replaced Etron with Fresco controllers.
I don't think this is coincidence.
They understood that there were problems with that chipset and they did replace it with another controller.
Only the users have been left out with a problematic controller.
3) It wouldn't be a problem if it wasn't working at all or even partial.
BUT the motherboard sees the Passport ONLY after I unplug it and plug it again AFTER booting in windows.
The light of the Passport is ON which means that it takes the power but it can't be discovered in windows.
I think this is a controller (maybe controller/driver) issue.
4) The same Passport works fine into a USB2 port.
5) Some times it takes more than 4-5 times to be discovered after I unplug it and plug it those times.
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If you think that you do indeed have a good case for having it replaced then I would advise contacting GGTS and explaining what you have just posted there and see if they agree with you and will arrange for a replacement.
Just enter your email address and click on the language of choice.
GGTS http://ggts.gigabyte.com/
Please expect several days for a reply.
Good luck and please let us know how you progress. ;)
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I am talking with them for a long time now.
Thanks friend.
I don't want to replace it just for the sake of it.
Is it capable of overclocking the 2600K or not?
I have a very good cooler and when I overclock I can work fine for several hours.
But then enough times I have to set back the memories at 1600 manually.
Also the USB3 issues are true.
Is this indicating a faulty motherboard or not?
Gigabyte told me to take it where I bought it.
I did. They say that I shouldn't overclock at all!
Why in the first place did I buy it with a 2600K and an extra cooler.
Why does it have overclocking settings at bios and why it gives me overclocking utilities to use?
Those things aren't connected in a good way.
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Final.
They agreed to change the motherboard for the Asus P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 with a NEC USB3 controller.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_1155/P8Z68_DELUXEGEN3/#specifications
Thank you Mantis for all of your support.
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I am just sorry we couldn't work out the problems so that everything was working properly. I hope that you have more luck with the Asus board.
Good luck. DM