Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: shaulke on November 05, 2011, 09:33:35 pm
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Hi,
I plugged the new mobo to a new case, added a 750W PSU, G.Skill 8GB (2x4GB 2133 1.65v - but it doesn't work with them out either) and an i5 2500k. A pre-working GTX-460 (non SLI) and an intel first gen SSD.
The first time I started it the machine started up and immediately restarts. Then it logged into the grub boot loader I had on the SSD. a minute later it restarted again. Then I left the comp alone and it just shuts down completely.
I got into the bios once and it looked OK, but the computer shut down again.
I noticed that the s4_s5 led is glowing red, until I start it by pressing the on board power and then no leds are on at all. There are also no beeps.
I had a couple of times where the s3 led was glowing orange, but that stopped.
Is my mobo faulty?
Any ideas? I'd appreciate anything.
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Welcome shaulke
could be several (Hundred) things but at first glance it sound like a board short, ... unless you inadvertently left an extra post in ....my first suggestion would be to remove it from the case and connect up everything on the box that the mobo came in and try firing it up again and report back what happens
Even disconnect the SSD temporarily to take it out of the fault find loop ;)
At least this way if we have to look at other things, ....everything is easily excess-able.....make sure you pay attention to all anti-static procedures.
Red light are normal until the OS takes over at the end of the boot phase.
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Welcome shaulke
could be several (Hundred) things but at first glance it sound like a board short, ... unless you inadvertently left an extra post in ....my first suggestion would be to remove it from the case and connect up everything on the box that the mobo came in and try firing it up again and report back what happens
Even disconnect the SSD temporarily to take it out of the fault find loop ;)
At least this way if we have to look at other things, ....everything is easily excess-able.....make sure you pay attention to all anti-static procedures.
Red light are normal until the OS takes over at the end of the boot phase.
Hi,
Thank you for answering! I guess I need to connect the PSU , right? should I connect the GFX and memeory ?
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Yup,Yup and Yup
Mobo, memory, PSU, GPU, DVD and CPU.....just have everything connected as you would in the case including all the GPU power cables, ....just leave off the SSD for the time being.
Aussie Allan
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Ok,
PLug in and out of the case, other than the SSD and case header all is connected. red light still there. Tried to start it, it blinks green (like before) and shuts down.
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Which red light are we talking about?
Aussie Allan
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same one, S4_S5 led on the lower right corner. after pressing power once (and the immediate shutdown) it will go off and return only if I turn the PSU off and then on.
edit: it's not exactly the lower right, more 1/3 in, by the last PCIEX.
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If you have the board out and configured as discussed....attempt to power on now and note anything different and post back what happens.
Aussie Allan
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If you have the board out and configured as discussed....attempt to power on now and note anything different and post back what happens.
Aussie Allan
Pressing the power the CPU fan starts, the S4_5 red light goes off and the S1 green light on and a blue light shows near the memory/CPU. then it stops and the red light is off as well.
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You may have a CPU socket fault but we have to try and do a Bios reset first...... Try doing a simple reset first .....Press and hold the reset button while power is off for a few seconds and try and get back in the Bios window (Delete key on boot).....if this fails, you'll then have to try and extended reset
Also remove all but one stick of memory ....(Slot 1 from the boards Paper Manual)
This will mean powering off the machine completely, unplug the wall socket, pop the Bios/cmos Battery for at least 1 hr ..... cycle the front power button a few times as well to drain any residual power in any capacitors
After one hour reconnect up and attempt to get back into the Bios (Delete key)
There really is several things it could be ....we just have to take it one step at a time and start ruling out bits one thing at a time.
Aussie Allan
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You may have a CPU socket fault but we have to try and do a Bios reset first...... Try doing a simple reset first .....Press and hold the reset button while power is off for a few seconds and try and get back in the Bios window (Delete key on boot).....if this fails, you'll then have to try and extended reset
Also remove all but one stick of memory ....(Slot 1 from the boards Paper Manual)
This will mean powering off the machine completely, unplug the wall socket, pop the Bios/cmos Battery for at least 1 hr ..... cycle the front power button a few times as well to drain any residual power in any capacitors
After one hour reconnect up and attempt to get back into the Bios (Delete key)
There really is several things it could be ....we just have to take it one step at a time and start ruling out bits one thing at a time.
Aussie Allan
Ok, pressing the power did not help. doing cmos cycle. shouldn't I press the clean cmos button at some point (the one on the mobo) ?
Thanks :) we'll talk in an hour, I hope
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You may have a CPU socket fault but we have to try and do a Bios reset first...... Try doing a simple reset first .....Press and hold the reset button while power is off for a few seconds and try and get back in the Bios window (Delete key on boot).....if this fails, you'll then have to try and extended reset
Also remove all but one stick of memory ....(Slot 1 from the boards Paper Manual)
This will mean powering off the machine completely, unplug the wall socket, pop the Bios/cmos Battery for at least 1 hr ..... cycle the front power button a few times as well to drain any residual power in any capacitors
After one hour reconnect up and attempt to get back into the Bios (Delete key)
There really is several things it could be ....we just have to take it one step at a time and start ruling out bits one thing at a time.
Aussie Allan
\
ok, I'm in! the bios says cmos checksum error. the POST Error occured! and 4 entries, default, 1 time, 1 time and 1 time.
what should I do?
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Good .....at least where getting a board that still responding.....
This might take a few shots to get it to work ....this is why it's good to have a Giga board with 2 Bios chips
You can kick in the backup BIOS by shutting down the PSU from the wall, then hold down your case power button in and then turn on the power supply button, a few seconds later the board will start, shut off the power supply then. Then you can turn on the power supply again and power up the board normally and Dual BIOS should/will kick in....... be patient, this can be tricky getting the timing right.
Aussie Allan
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But I think it's working now, should I do what you suggest anyway?
I pressed the default config and the computer boots normally now. Bios revision is F1 and the site gives me an .exe file with F5 (!!) - how do I flash the bios without installing windows? or is F1 only *one* of these bioses and I should go ahead with your flow?
thanks! :) :) :)
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Spoke too soon.. it looks like the hour without a battery is resetting something but after I shut down the board from the on board power it returned to not-work. I should have updated the bios when I had the chance :(
So? take out the battery for another hour?
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No! if it's up and running cool bananas!!....... you can Use Qflash to Flash to F5.... or if your not comfortable.....it will be fine to load window on at the current bios
Start loading up all the kit again a piece at a time with a boot in between .....the lastish thing you want to do after the Bios flash is load "Optimized Defaults".....this sends the board when booting-up to go hunting for everything and anything that connected.
Then when you have the OS done ....and all the drivers......then flash to the latest......now start enjoying the board......glad you had a board with a backup bios now ;) ......going to bed now......1am
Aussie Allan
UPDATE
Just read your post.....yes, start again 99.....and looks like you'll have to update the bios.....make sure you uncheck "keep DMI data pool"
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What has hjappened is that the Backup BIOS has flashed it's contents over the corrupt Main BIOS and now you have gone back to running the F1 BIOS version that was still installed in the other chip. What you need to do is clear the CMOS and then update the Main BIOS using QFlash to the latest BIOS version you have available to you. As Allan said make sure on the QFlash main screen you disable the option "Keep DMI Data" before you continue with the update. Anyway once completed you can then synchronise both BIOS versions so that if you need to ever redo this you will be flashing over with a newer version.
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Hi,
Thanks for the help, but now I can't even get the board to start again. I recycled the power and it was off the wall for a whole night..
Another thing is I tried putting in a USB key when I got it to work and it didn't recognize it.
Ideas?
Thanks :)
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Power off all night !..... with the button battery out?
Aussie Allan
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Yes
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Right .....do you have access to another PSU...(fingers crossed please,please,please)
Aussie Allan
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actually I do, but it will take me time to plug it in.. will update
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Ok, update: sadly, my other PSU has not ATX_v12_2 connector.. so no way to check another option...
Should I RMA the PSU ?
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RMA of PSU is only a educated best guess.....we need to somehow test it is actually the problem before RMA......do you have an old compatible video card that doesn't require the 2x12V connectors.
Aussie Allan
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according to the manual, the board will not start without the on board atx_v12 connection connected. so I don't fully follow you.
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RMA of PSU is only a educated best guess.....we need to somehow test it is actually the problem before RMA......do you have an old compatible video card that doesn't require the 2x12V connectors.
Aussie Allan
Hi,
Well, I tried using the same PSU with another card (GT220 from gigabyte) and I get the same behavior.
What will be a good PSU to use for my motherboard ?
Thanks :)
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Look because of lack of other components ..... I can only make a educated Guess.....and if I had to choose it would be the PSU first off
Corsair series are top notch and 750 to 850W would be the target.....I run on myself in my sig (AX850).....you don't have to buy top of the range.....even the lower series are still absolute quality....with tops warranties
I feel bad because what happens if you spend fun ticket to find out it's not the PSU....see my position .... Hang ten and I'll get someone else to have a peak....
Aussie Allan
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Allan,
No problem I'm waiting. FYI - I have the TX750W from corsair :(
could this be something in the PSU in the case? should I take it out too ?
update:
did that, still no go
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ok, turning the PSU on while pressing the on board power I got the board to start and stop / start and stop.. each for a second or two, at the beginning it was longer but now that's it. I even got the cmos error message again, chose default and it didn't help. The S3 is now glowing orange..
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Wait for the Moderator to have a peak-a-boo....it's a funny one .... have you had a look at the pin nest for damaged pins (while your waiting) ......you'll need some/a good light source and a magnifying glass....or a good Macro lens if in doubt to post some images we can have a look at.
there pretty fine....what you'll be looking for are bent of snapped pins....sometimes they can look like a shadow where there sould not be one ( an area of pins pushed out of place)
Aussie Allan
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are we talking about the CPU nest?
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Correct!
Aussie Allan
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Another little tell tail is to look at the contact points on the bottom of the CPU (LGA Grid) ....see if the contact points/ware is central,uniform and even.....if there's some inconsistencies it will help you target where to look in the nest!
Aussie Allan
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(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-h3MeTQvOc6E/Tra7PYqudhI/AAAAAAAAK18/xTpzL5aXkfU/s1152/IMG_4667.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-UOqj5HbF8_Q/Tra7UYa5ArI/AAAAAAAAK2M/M_F5ups6Vi0/s1024/IMG_4671.JPG)
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Good....pins are fine.....and finally....someone who knows how to take a macro with out a flash :D
I see DM hasn't paid a visit yet......It is Sunday evening over here.....gotta be understanding....
Aussie Allan
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Thanks, but there was a flash involved :D, just a good lens I guess,
And no worries, it's Sunday here as well
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Hi
Well I have just read through your whole thread and whilst it does sound like a duff PSU I think we should check everything from the beginning first before you go wasting your money. I think you have the motherboard on the worktop now , is that correct ?
If so make sure that you have only these parts connected:
Motherboard
PSU (24 pin and 8 pin plugged in)
CPU,heatsink and fan (plugged in)
One stick of memory in first slot (DDR3_1)
Buzzer
This should all be out on the worktop on some cardboard or something similar and nothing else connected. Plug in the PSU mains supply and try and boot. It should make the effort but stop and give a series of beeps indicating a fault. Please post what they are.
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Hi
Well I have just read through your whole thread and whilst it does sound like a duff PSU I think we should check everything from the beginning first before you go wasting your money. I think you have the motherboard on the worktop now , is that correct ?
If so make sure that you have only these parts connected:
Motherboard
PSU (24 pin and 8 pin plugged in)
CPU,heatsink and fan (plugged in)
One stick of memory in first slot (DDR3_1)
Buzzer
This should all be out on the worktop on some cardboard or something similar and nothing else connected. Plug in the PSU mains supply and try and boot. It should make the effort but stop and give a series of beeps indicating a fault. Please post what they are.
Hi,
It did start for a second,
No sound.tried the speaker plugged both ways, (is yellow - or +?)
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I don't know what colour scheme they have used on your buzzer because it all depends on who made them and how much they got the cheapest roll of cable for. On the piezo sounder though if you look carefully it should have a little raised symbol of + and - but I must admit they are not easy to see.
Is your BIOS set to Optimised BIOS settings ?
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nope, default settings, last time it got to the cmos error screen.
as for the speaker, It says NNN on the black cord, so I'll assume thats the negative..
I think the red led on the S4_S5 means something, where can I find the color codes for gigabyte motherboards?
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When you are just trying to clear the CMOS for testing purposes just a few minutes should work. But when you have finished for the night remove the mains cable and the battery from the motherboard overnight. Don't forget to drain any residual power in the capacitors by using the power button after it is all unplugged.
If you get into the BIOS make sure that you set it to Optimised rather than default and save it (F10)
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When you are just trying to clear the CMOS for testing purposes just a few minutes should work. But when you have finished for the night remove the mains cable and the battery from the motherboard overnight. Don't forget to drain any residual power in the capacitors by using the power button after it is all unplugged.
If you get into the BIOS make sure that you set it to Optimised rather than default and save it (F10)
Thanks, but I don't follow, what should I do now?
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The thing is with the coloured LEDs , it's not really much help because they should al come on and look like a christmas tree until after POST has completed so red, yellow, skyblue pink.... not a lot of help at this stage.
When you try and boot now exactly what happens ?
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Trying to boot using the onboard power button the fan starts, then stops. then it started again and I heard one beep (!). S1 is green, GD1 is green GD2 is yellow. then it stops and S3 lights orange. now its off.
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btw, the GFX is not in it's slot and there is no keyboard.. shouldn't I hear something other than one beep.. ?
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No probably not as the board has the onboard graphics option and the keyboard won't actually stop POST from completing. Have you tried connecting the monitor to the onboard output (HDMI) I believe ?
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You are correct. This explains the one beep... although , this doesn't answer the question.. should I use another PSU to check for issues?
As for HDMI, I don't have a screen with that option right now..
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It is hard to say when you can't check the output from the HDMI port. There might be a screen displaying there that gives some information about the problem. If you can borrow a decent quality PSU from a friend or something then I would say yes, try it. Make sure that it is a powerful enough one though probably around 650W minimum.
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Ordered the AX850 , should come today. I'll keep you posted :)
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Absolutely,positively, a wet dream of a PSU right down to the Packaging and 3 yrs of warranty .......yes I've been monitoring 8)..... and yes I would go down this path in finding a fix ... and in the outside chance it's not the ultimate fix.......you will have one of the best PSUs money can buy!
Aussie Allan
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Absolutely,positively, a wet dream of a PSU right down to the Packaging and 3 yrs of warranty .......yes I've been monitoring 8)..... and yes I would go down this path in finding a fix ... and in the outside chance it's not the ultimate fix.......you will have one of the best PSUs money can buy!
Aussie Allan
A Raving review :) even the corsair PSU finder treats the AX series with irreverence .. I had to over load my imaginary rig with 10 HDs before it popped up :)
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Is it only a three year warranty on the AX series Allan ? I thought it was much longer. I have a 7 year warranty on my HX850 and I know that a lot of Corsair's PSUs are 5 years.
No I just checked and I am afraid you are mistaken there as it is 7 years the same as my HX.
Corsair Professional Series Gold AX750 features:
•Supports the latest ATX12V v2.31 and EPS 2.92 standards and is backward compatible with ATX12V 2.2 and ATX12V 2.01 systems
•An ultra-quiet 120mm double ball-bearing fan delivers excellent airflow at an exceptionally low noise level by varying fan speed in response to temperature
•80 Plus Gold certified to deliver at least 90% efficiency at 50% load
•Active Power Factor Correction (PFC) with PF value of 0.99
•Universal AC input from 90~264V •No more hassle of flipping that tiny red switch to select the voltage input!
•A dedicated single +12V rail offers maximum compatibility with the latest components
•Over-voltage and over-current protection, under-voltage protection, and short circuit protection provide maximum safety to your critical system components
•High-quality Japanese capacitors provide uncompromised performance and reliability
•Completely modular cable system allows you to use only the cables you need •Power supply upgrade and replacement is easy, as the cables only need to be disconnected at the power supply
•Low-profile, flat cable design reduces air friction and helps maximize airflow through your computer's chassis
•A seven year warranty and lifetime access to Corsair's legendary technical support and customer service
•Dimensions: 150mm(W) x 86mm(H) x 160mm(L)
•MTBF: 100,000 hours
•Safety Approvals: UL, CUL, CE, CB, FCC Class B, TÜV, CCC, C-tick
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Let me........ check... ... Yup! you're right .....SEVEN BLOODY YEARS!.......Knew I should have bought 4 8)
Aussie Allan
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No, you wouldn't need 28 years worth...... ;D
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Soooo... I got the mobo working and running ubuntu off of a thumb drive.. updated the bios to F5 as well..
What should I do now? add the other memory stick? install the SSD? put the motherboard and PSU into the case?
and how do I copy the main bios to the backup bios?
you guys are great. I was about to give up without your help!
p.s.: apparently, TX750W is not a good choice for this board..
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Great news!
Add a piece at a time and check for stability at each piece intervals.....but I think your problem has been found and fixed......good luck and let us know how you're getting on as you progress......if you have a problem.......were here to help!
Aussie Allan
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To synchronise the two BIOS chips follow these instructions:
From a cold start with the power to the machine switched off press the power button and then enter the BIOS by pressing Del. Then when you get to the main screen press F9. This will bring up an extra screen which will display more information about the two BIOS versions. Assuming they are different exit the BIOS and shutdown. Again press the power button and this time press Alt + F12 where you would normally use the Del key to enter the BIOS. You will fiond that then your monitor will turn black and you will see:
Press [Enter] to start copying main BIOS to backup BIOS...
When you press Enter more text will appear saying:
Writing BIOS image.... xxxKb OK
Once completed more text will show:
BIOS successfully recovered! Power off or reset system!
Do as it says. Both Main and Backup BIOS chips now store the same BIOS version. You can now reboot as normal.
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Guys,
I haven't forgot about you , just waiting for some stuff and then I'll go forward,
Thanks !
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So, I promised an update:
Mobo still works, had very little problems with it so far, very stable.
Thanks again for all the help guys!!