Official GIGABYTE Forum
Questions about GIGABYTE products => Motherboards with Intel processors => Topic started by: www on January 21, 2012, 10:31:46 pm
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I have a GA-P67A-UD3-B3 + Intel i5 2500k + ATI Saphire 6950 1GB + 2x4gb G.Skill RipJaws Series + PSU CoolerMaster GX650w.
The computer boots just fine, I get the normal 1 beep and then I get into the OS (Win7 or Linux Ubuntu 11.04 with dualboot). After a while of using the computer I get this strange beep code ( beep-pause-beep-pause-beep (beeps are short)). Also happened (only once) that the beep were continuous (with a short pause between each other), and then the computer turned off and back on but got the infamous reboot loop, I then unplugged the power and drained it pressing the power button, connected everything again and it booted fine.
But after using the computer for a while I still get the "three beeps", now I shut down the computer as soon as I hear them to prevent the reboot loop that happened before.
This is driving me crazy because its not beeping at boot like a normal problem, it lets me get into the OS and everything, plus I have used it for days sometimes without hearing the beep so this makes it really hard to test stuff, I tried all the memory slots, using only one memory, disconnecting all unnecesary cables, etc and still get the beeps, I even heard them once while leaving the computer into the BIOS setup for like 15 minutes.
I also used a voltimeter on the wall plug, and I get around 215volts (should be 220v), but I monitored while running the computer, and once it beeped and the volts were stuck on 215, they weren't lower, and the computer seems to work anyway with that voltage, if that was the problem I would expect to get the beeps as soon as I turn it on.
I checked temperatures with software and bios, and they never go above 56C, disk, vga, cores, etc, even while beeping.
Since beeps while into the operative system are mostly because of temperature, I though it was that or fan failure alarm, but I disabled all the alarms on the bios and tried again, and still get the beeps after using it for a while.
So, can the mobo beep because of temperature, even when the alarms are disabled?
What could be happening? Could it be a voltage problem? Does someone has an audio sample of how the power error beeps sound like? Does vga cards contain their own beep speaker?
I haven't received any response from gigabyte.
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Award Bios beep code of this nature ( High frequency beeeps while running) indicates an overheating CPU ..... open at least two temp monitors and try and replicate the fault and record the temps ..... a game or stress test might help get you there.
So, can the mobo beep because of temperature, even when the alarms are disabled? .... short answer .... I don't know for sure .... but I think it would still squeal like a stuck pig!
Long answer ...... why in hadies would you want to disable the thermal alarm completely ?... or do I misunderstand.
Aussie Allan
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Award Bios beep code of this nature ( High frequency beeeps while running) indicates an overheating CPU ..... open at least two temp monitors and try and replicate the fault and record the temps ..... a game or stress test might help get you there.
So, can the mobo beep because of temperature, even when the alarms are disabled? .... short answer .... I don't know for sure .... but I think it would still squeal like a stuck pig!
Long answer ...... why in hadies would you want to disable the thermal alarm completely ?... or do I misunderstand.
Aussie Allan
I didn't want to disable alarms completely, but I disabled them to see if the beeps continued, so I could confirm it was a temperature alarm, but the beeps continues with the alarms disabled.
Now it's been a few hours and I can't make it beep again, I will try installing and running some game as you said. Also I noticed this problem almost never happen at night, I think it only happened once at night.
Also, the vga (ati radeon 6950) is much bigger than the old cards like nvidia gt8xxx, and it was on top of the motherboard chip dissipator (see http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/4632/p67aud4.jpg, im talking about the dissipator next to the pci slots, I moved the vga to the last pci slot and now the dissipator is not covered by the vga).
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There I got the beeps again!!! ??? I wasn't even running any program at all.
Hardware sensors Monitor 4.5 shows:
Mainboard: 25c
CPU1: 44c
CPU0: 46c
HDD: 37c
Chassis Fan Speed: 1950RPM
Voltages:
+12v : +12.04v
+5v: +5.07v
+3.3v: +3.38V
Core: 1.33v
Aux: 1.02v
SpeedFan show temps:
Core0 : 44c
Core1: 45c
Core1: 42c
Core3: 46c
HD0: 39C
Temp1:42c
Temp2: 25c
Temp3: 36c
Fan speed: 1929rpm
And from the bios (pc health status section) just after the beeps:
System Temp: 45c
CPU Temp: 48c
CPU Fan Speed: 2327RPM
VCore: 1.212v
DDR15V: 1.536v
+12v: 12.073v
Vcc3: 3.383v
Vcc: 5.083v
Vtt: 1.088v
I am out of ideas, I dont know what the hell is causing this. I guess I will need a new mobo.
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You need to use a program that records/displays min and max fan speeds, temperatures, and voltages, as all these can trigger that alarm.
Did you try disabling fan alarms with the temp alarms?
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You need to use a program that records/displays min and max fan speeds, temperatures, and voltages, as all these can trigger that alarm.
Did you try disabling fan alarms with the temp alarms?
I've disabled all the alarms on the bios as I said on my first post. Beeps still continue to happen.
This is the beep (i didn't recorded it but I generated it using audio software and it sound pretty much the same). Download it or listen it here: http://kiwi6.com/file/mx750tt335 or here http://www.zshare.net/audio/98880046f982b8e4/
btw, the beep code is exactly like the one I uploaded, 3 beeps 3 times, its not like a continuous "3beeps pause 3beeps pause... infinite"
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Hi, WWW.
Here are a few suggestions you can try, these I got from experience the hard way.
I had something similar happen to me a long time ago, turned out to be a faulty keyboard.
Also check your RAM chips as 1 or both maybe faulty, how old is your video card? ie, is it new or second hand. (could be faulty)
Remove & clean all components of dust, including the mobo sockets & reseat all components. (make sure you are static free).
It will probably be something silly, as generally is the case.
Ben.
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Hi, WWW.
Here are a few suggestions you can try, these I got from experience the hard way.
I had something similar happen to me a long time ago, turned out to be a faulty keyboard.
Also check your RAM chips as 1 or both maybe faulty, how old is your video card? ie, is it new or second hand. (could be faulty)
Remove & clean all components of dust, including the mobo sockets & reseat all components. (make sure you are static free).
It will probably be something silly, as generally is the case.
Ben.
The keyboard is the only old thing (ps2 keyboard), but could a keyboard cause the computer to shutdown and then enter the infamous reboot loop? (which happened once after it beeped multiple times like the audios I uploaded (with minutes of pause between each beeps)). Thats why I shut it down after it beeps now.
I tested the 2 memories separated, on slot 1 and 3 using only one and on slot 12, 34 using both, ran memtest from memtest.org and didn't found any error.
All components are brand new, i removed cleaned and replugged everything (not the cpu).
Which is super annoying is that I cant reproduce the beeps whenever I want, they just happen randomly. I even tested benchmark tools, and games, and it doesn't seem to affect when the beeps occur, sometimes they occur without anything running or while changing stuff in the bios.
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You can hear the beeps from the pc case or from your speakers ?
You can also hear them when you boot into Linux?
If you hear them from the speakers and only in windows, a program probably produces them.
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As my Aussie mate Ben states......likely predator is the keyboard ........three beep code can indicate keyboard or memory ...... this can be installed memory or VGA memory
Swap out the keyboard to rule it out.
Aussie Allan
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After reading though the thread I too would change the keyboard as the next step. It certainly is the most likely thing. ;)
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You can hear the beeps from the pc case or from your speakers ?
You can also hear them when you boot into Linux?
If you hear them from the speakers and only in windows, a program probably produces them.
The sound comes from the motherboard tiny speaker of course, and I said in the first post it happened both in linux and windows.
Thanks everyone for the replies, I will go get a new keyboard and test with that.
I always tend to think this was caused by a power error from the electrical network (not the psu), since it happens so randomly, for example, it has been 10 hours since I don't hear the beeps. Also room temperature dropped on the last 10 hours, which cause the electrical network to provide power more normally, since when its TOO hot everyone and their mother has their air conditioner turned on and theres a really visible drop in the volotage of the electric network (voltage is the only thing i can measure right now).
As my Aussie mate Ben states......likely predator is the keyboard ........three beep code can indicate keyboard or memory ...... this can be installed memory or VGA memory
Swap out the keyboard to rule it out.
Aussie Allan
Is there some software to test vga memory for errors?
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Is there some software to test vga memory for errors?
http://www.technibble.com/repair-tool-of-the-week-video-memory-stress-test/
or for those with a little more experience
http://mikelab.kiev.ua/index_en.php?page=programs/vmt_en
Aussie Allan 8)
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- BIOS doesn't test VRAM
- 215V is well within tolerance; if you go below 208V, look into it. You really should use an UPS anyway
- Have you logged internal voltages?
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Thanks aussie alan, VRAM seems ok, no errors found.
- BIOS doesn't test VRAM
- 215V is well within tolerance; if you go below 208V, look into it. You really should use an UPS anyway
- Have you logged internal voltages?
I don't use UPS, from what I heard UPS are good for when power goes completely out so you have some time to save your work and turn off the computer. I use stabilizers which as difference of UPS, will turn off when there's no input voltage, I think they just provide a more constant voltage stream than the wall plug. But the voltage I measured in the stabilizer seems to be the same as the wall plug so I am not sure what they stabilize (maybe amperes or watts or just the same voltage as the wall but more stable?).
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Cool ..... keyboards are just so cheap now ..... but borrow one for testing by all means ..... it's all about testing through a logical path , piece by piece and continually narrowing down possible causes ..... keyboards next!
Do you have any-other bits of kit connected up while were on the subject ?
Aussie Allan
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Stabilisers just stop any peaks and troughs from appearing and putting a strain on your system but to do a proper job need a battery built in which is where the UPS comes into play. It is not just for blackouts but for brownouts and overvoltage and undervoltage situations. I always run everything through a UPS and am confident that electrically it is safe from the mains.
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I think pretty much everything turns off with no input voltage. ;)
UPS are good for:
- Automated graceful shutdown/hibernate during a power outage (or just keep running if power is out for only a few mins)
- Boosting power during a brown-out
- Disconnecting your equipment during a surge (switches to battery)
- Line conditioning
- Sacrificing itself to save your equipment when lightning hits your tree (true story--six of my neighbours lost equipment from that; I did not; they all bought APC UPSes after that)
- Peace of mind and not having to worry about unplugging equipment during heavy storms/bad power instances
Without knowing how your stabilisers are built, I'd wonder if they filter sags/surges that would damage a complex PSU (or other sensitive electronics) vs. keeping your household appliances from frying.
Realistically, line input would be the last thing I'd suspect if a motherboard had power problems; I'd look at the PSU itself first, then its load (PC components, fans, etc.).
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Realistically, line input would be the last thing I'd suspect if a motherboard had power problems; I'd look at the PSU itself first, then its load (PC components, fans, etc.).
I would have to agree with that sentiment. Although possible it is rare for the mains supply to be the cause of a problem on the computer. Look for the common causes first.
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Thanks for the UPS info.
It has been 2 days of intensive use and no beeps so far, the only thing that changed is that the weather, now it's not so hot and electric input is normal, that's why I suspect the cause could be the electrical network. Because temperatures of the components never went above 63c, normally max temp was 58c
The temperature I still couldn't get is the one from the motherboard, all softwares show "25c" for motherboard and never moves, but I touched the northbridge and it's damn hot.
I guess I will have to wait for another really hot day to keep testing because it seems the only common thing when beeps occur.
I also contacted coolermaster to get info about the protections the PSU has but didn't got a response yet, it has temp and voltage protections but I don't know the values, I only know the operative temperature is 0-40c, but don't know if there's a way to verify the current temp on a PSU.
Does someone knows how I could get the motherboard temp?
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CPUIDs Hardware Monitor has everything and logs min/max.
Another possibility is that heat could indirectly cause power problems if components are broken down enough at higher temps but not enough to be in tolerances at lower temps (inverse temperature coefficient).
You can test this by either lowering the temps (remove side panel, place a floor or desk fan blowing into it or raising temps with a heat gun or hair dryer (be careful on that one).
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Hay Rolo42
....."inverse temperature coefficient" ....? .... do you mean .... \operatorname{R}(T) = \operatorname{R}(T_0)(1 + \alpha\Delta T)
or are you referring to thermal breaks/switches when tracks or wires become fatigued due to thermal oscillation ?
If you are talking about inverse temperature coefficient of materials used in motherboard manufacturers .... they do all they can to match thermal coefficients of mating materials used ..... but an interesting though none the less.
In the original post .... everything is new except the PS2 keyboard.
Aussie Allan 8)
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As heat increases, resistance decreases.
If you have a diode, for example, in a rectifier and its broken down just enough to work at room temp but as ambient temp in equipment rises, the diode's resistance decreases (when it shouldn't), letting current--in this case, negative voltage from AC--thorough when it should be blocked. This will put a sine wave on your DC voltage (it should be flat).
If this were to happen with TTL semiconductors, signals (your 1s and 0s) would get garbled.
"New" means "untested"; you can't assume something works because it is new. Standard procedure is to test it before deploying/sparing it.
This is an interesting problem (one that would drive me nuts; it reminds me of the Stormtroopers of Death track, "What's That Noise?"); I can't wait to see how this turns out.
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"New" means "untested"; you can't assume something works because it is new. Standard procedure is to test it before deploying/sparing it.
Quite correct and something people often fail to understand.
You are also right about the way faults can occur in a circuit even though they can be very hard to track down. Often it requires reverse procedures where you need to understand the effect to find the fault.
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While it's not too busy ... ;) .... I agree ! ...........to a point!
Years ago I was a project manager with Union Carbide (not Bhopal India!) ... one of my duties was implementing new technology, quality controls for the then new AA/AAA "Energizer Battery lines"
Each component ..... end-caps .... inner/outer casing .... carbon black mix .... all have a reject tolerance standard ..... 1 in 1000 requires a separate inspection of the batch lot.....in the closer inspection......5 in 1000 requires a rejection of the entire lot.
This is on top of the final inspection of the assembled finished product..... PCB products will go through an individual testing station (Nested conveyor) ..... yes ! all the boards will be tested prior to boxing for basic connectivity and operation .
I think most people have little insight into the level of automation and testing that goes into even our humble motherboards.
Aussie Allan 8)
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Agreed! Some companies however have a much stricter testing regime than others I am sure you will agree. Some purely batch test whilst others do a multiple test but still in batches and some go much further.
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Without knowing the QA process to our PC boards, we can assume:
- Assembly line diagnostics are likely basic (might not be any more than POST pass)
- Bench tests can't check every possible configuration or use (especially given the variety of components that will be plugged into it)
- Diags won't always catch intermittent faults
- There is a point where RMAs will be more pragmatic than QA/validation
- There may be issues the manufacturer is willing to accept (why I quit buying Asus)
Finally, no matter how thorough, validation can't account for anything that happens when the product leaves the factory--shipping, handling, end-users' fondling...
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Wow, thanks for all the great info. I went to a technical school but I still only understand 50% of the last posts :P buts its REALLY interesting, you guys know a lot of stuff.
Anyway just wanted to make an update on this topis, first... I didn't got any beeps since my last posts and I have been using it from 10am to 6am every single day, mostly to watch TV. Weather is MUCH cooler now, so thats interesting, but also the electrical network is normal at 220v most of the time. I am still waiting for a hot day because I am kinda afraid of shooting the pc with a heat gun :P
I am planning to place a vga cooler over the northbridge heatsink anyway, would it be better to use those special glues or just screws on the slots? ( I am talking about this heatsink : http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2010/11/gigabyte-ga-p67a-ud4-p67a-ud3r-preview/p67a-ud4-sata.jpg btw what are those white things with springs on the two corners? )
Also I got a response from gigabyte support, pretty useless compared with the info you guys gave me but at least they tried jeje, one told me to clear cmos and another to test another ram and update bios.
Thanks again for all the info guys, I enjoyed reading.
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The white pegs are what keep the heatsink mounted to the motherboard, much like the really annoying pegs Intel CPU coolers use (only these aren't annoying).
That chip is the southbridge ("PCH" now); cooling it will do absolutely nothing. There is no northbridge (it is now the "uncore" in the CPU).
Seriously, fire up HW Monitor and use a hair dryer to increase ambient temp in the case to see if the problem returns with increased temps. You could then switch of the heat and cool it back off.
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WWW.....just another opinion...
The south-bridge does come with a heat-sink for a reason ....although quoted correctly by Rolo42 that a lot of the overhead has been relieved by the CPU , the south bridge still has a fair bit of work to do handling the traffic from the SATAs it supports ..... if you have just one or two drives.....there should not be a problem ....... if you load up all these ports ...... and say add 4 more drives via a RAID card ..... the south-bridge has oodles of work to do.
As the designers envisage say up to 4 drives running through the bridge..... the sink is formulated to overcome that load ..... if you exceed that mark/parameters.....and clock as well ..... a little help could be needed.
If you have access to a non contact or contact temp prob/monitor (or use the on-board monitor) ...... check the temp under idle and load of the sink ...... if it rises over 50C ....it's worth looking at ..... even for extending the life of the chip ...... it could range from a better thermal paste, small after market 40mm fan (or both) right up to water cooling.......I have a lot of drives so went the Enzotech bridge cooler route and never see temps rise above 36C even when encoding .....
Aussie Allan
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Allan's advice is well founded and it would be sensible to take heed of it. As with most things they are worked out for the average user but if someone wants to push the boundaries a bit then you have to expect to customise a little.
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IIRC TJmax of the PCH is 104c; you'll have quite a ways to go.
Case cooling/ambient temp will have a significant impact on that heat sink.
We are only talking about 6.1w TDP here.
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Today it's been a really hot day (35c), but I didn't got any beeps ¬¬
I tried CPUID Hardware Monitor, CPU temp is stuck at 25c like on any other software, the 4 core temps do work. Without running anything (or even while watching TV), the temps are between 58c and 65c, maximum was 67c. This doesn't look very good, I read that for the i5 those temps should be only at max load, and the max temp is 72c but I didn't find any official info from intel.
I've also ran a cpu benchmark from passmark software, but that only increased temp 2 - 3 degrees.
On the bios I've set the CPU Smart Fan Control to "manual", and slope pwm to 2.5 PWM value / C, CPU fan seems to be running at 2400rpm according to the BIOS but I can barely notice that, it doesn't do any noise and since the PSU has a cooler blowing air to that area I can't really feel anything by placing the hand around it. Should I use PWM mode or Voltage mode for the fan control? I don't think the cpu cooler will run faster than 2400rpm anyway. I may have to change the original intel core, it kinda sucks, because if its running at 2400rpm and the heatsink is clean I would expect it to run at lower temps.
Here's the log from CPUID: http://pastie.org/private/kkf7lxpasfypb6lxr043jw but it didn't seem to have logged all the core temps, but maybe someone wants to check it to see if there's something weird.
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Ah! What cooler are you using? How many pins does it's fan connector have? If it has four pins (the stock cooler has this), set fan control to PWM; otherwise, it must be voltage-controlled.
Setting a 3-pin fan to PWM would prevent it from spinning properly, which could explain the beeping and would explain the higher-than-expected CPU temps at/near idle.
Your temps at/near idle should only be a few degrees above ambient, depending on your case cooling and CPU cooler; 60+ tells me your fan isn't spinning since your voltage isn't going nuts.
72.4c is max Tcase (the package), 100c is TJmax but you shouldn't go above 90 fully stressed.
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Ah! What cooler are you using? How many pins does it's fan connector have? If it has four pins (the stock cooler has this), set fan control to PWM; otherwise, it must be voltage-controlled.
Setting a 3-pin fan to PWM would prevent it from spinning properly, which could explain the beeping and would explain the higher-than-expected CPU temps at/near idle.
Your temps at/near idle should only be a few degrees above ambient, depending on your case cooling and CPU cooler; 60+ tells me your fan isn't spinning since your voltage isn't going nuts.
72.4c is max Tcase (the package), 100c is TJmax but you shouldn't go above 90 fully stressed.
The cooler is the one from intel that comes with the cpu (4 pins), the fan does spin, the max RPM I've seen in the BIOS is 2800RPM. As soon as I turn on the pc and I get into the bios the CPU temp shows 48c.
Now on the bios I changed VCore and PLL from auto to normal, also I went into win7 power settings and changed "maximum processor state" from 100% to 99%, also disabled intel turbo boost 2.0 on the bios.
Now the temp never reaches 60, it stays between 48c and 53c, cpuid show max 58c on one core, the others all 55c.
On my older pc temp is not a few degrees above room temp either, its about 50c all the time, 58c with load.
Maybe I should change the thermal compound, I did it a few times in 4-5 years on my older pc and that decreased the temp a little.
With SpeedFan software it looks like I only control the gpu fans, I have 4 fiels to move from 0 to 100%, only one seems to work and it controls the gpu fans, i tried settings the others to 0 then to 100, and no other coolers seems to have any effect.
btw this is the first pc I dont build myself, and it seems to be the one that needs more customizations je
update: I downloaded easytune6 from gigabyte, and disabled smart fan, now the cpu fan looks like it runs faster, because it does some noise (i think it comes from there because gpu and other case coolers hasn't increased speed) and it feels like it blows more air if I put my hand on the side of the cpu, core temps are between 47c and 51c now. Is there a way to run all fans at top speed all the time without a soft? I dont care about saving power or getting a quiet pc, im with the speakers turned on all day i dont hear anything anyway :P
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OK, I think the smart fan control was the problem. I disabled it in the bios, not temps are much lower, on win7 cpuid shows core temps between 43c and 50c max. But in linux they are 35c on idle, looks much better than before.
Is it normal the 8-15 degrees different between linux and windows? I use WIn only for watching tv now, once I move to using the new PC to work I will use only linux.
Also, why smart fan control is causing the fans to run slower ergo increasing all temps in the pc? it doesn't look so smart after all, or maybe I have something wrong in the config.
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Ah, I inferred you were using an aftermarket cooler; the Intel ones are awful. If you never put a heavy load on your CPU, it will work fine; otherwise, it will have a hard time keeping up (IBT kills it in ~5 mins, CPU down-clocks) on an overclocked CPU. (probably why they won't be including one in future offerings) From what I hear, the stock thermal compound is very good but I couldn't say for sure.
Power isn't the only consideration: dust and longevity of the fan are as well. There's little point in cooling more when it isn't going to matter since everything is well within tolerance.
I would guess Windows puts more of a continual load than other OSes due to all the background tasks it runs at idle (making it no longer idle) and whatever other apps you may have.
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Thanks a lot Rolo42, and thanks everyone who participated on this thread. I think we can say the problem is solved now. I will probably do some mods in the future to get better cooling on this computer, and yea I have read that the intel stock cooler is pretty bad.
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Here's the log from CPUID: http://pastie.org/private/kkf7lxpasfypb6lxr043jw but it didn't seem to have logged all the core temps, but maybe someone wants to check it to see if there's something weird.
Hi www !
this is from your log of CPUID
Temperature 0 46°C (114°F) [0x2E] (Aux)
Temperature 1 25°C (77°F) [0x19] (CPU)
Temperature 2 50°C (122°F) [0x32] (Mainboard)
Fan 0 40 RPM [0x107] (FANIN0)
The log is not correct, because your motherboard temp is "Temperature 0" (AUX) and your CPU temp is "Temperature 2" (marked as Mainboard).
You have to ignore "Temperature 1" (marked as CPU); it's value never changes.
Fan 0 (this is CPU fan - only 40 RPM) is also not correct.
I use http://www.hwinfo.com (http://www.hwinfo.com) HWiNFO™, which works very well. :)
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Here's the log from CPUID: http://pastie.org/private/kkf7lxpasfypb6lxr043jw but it didn't seem to have logged all the core temps, but maybe someone wants to check it to see if there's something weird.
Hi www !
this is from your log of CPUID
Temperature 0 46°C (114°F) [0x2E] (Aux)
Temperature 1 25°C (77°F) [0x19] (CPU)
Temperature 2 50°C (122°F) [0x32] (Mainboard)
Fan 0 40 RPM [0x107] (FANIN0)
The log is not correct, because your motherboard temp is "Temperature 0" (AUX) and your CPU temp is "Temperature 2" (marked as Mainboard).
You have to ignore "Temperature 1" (marked as CPU); it's value never changes.
Fan 0 (this is CPU fan - only 40 RPM) is also not correct.
I use http://www.hwinfo.com (http://www.hwinfo.com) HWiNFO™, which works very well. :)
Thanks for t hat info, the fan speed doesn't work for me on cpuid, I can get cpu fan speed from the bios and from speedfan also gpu but it never worked on cpuid. I will try hwinfo later.
I am happy with the temps now, on idle in win7 core temps stay around 38c to 45c, and in linux 8 to 12 degrees lower. I guess it could be better by changing the intel cooler, but for now it seems ok.
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I'm rethinking my linux vs. Win loading theory and wondering, instead, if the linux software needs calibrating.
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I'm rethinking my linux vs. Win loading theory and wondering, instead, if the linux software needs calibrating.
I used "xsensors" (previously installing lm-sensors and then running sensors-detect and answering yes to everything), any advice?
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Not a clue, other than to check configuration for calibration (I had to do that a loooong time ago but I forget what program, platform).
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I have an update regarding linux vs windows temperature. On windows I had the process IAStorDataMgrSvc.exe using some CPU every few seconds, I killed it and now temps on linux and win are closer, just a few de grees higher on win.