Gigabyte P67A-UD4-B3 Rev1.1 Motherboard loops on startup

[Dark Mantis]

Yes there are certainly several that are not making a good contact with the socket pins.

[sbp]

what do you recommend I do?

[Dark Mantis]

You will need to PM runn3R and see if he can arrange a RMA for you. Hopefully he will be able to arrange a one off repair but it is up the the company as this isn't really covered under warrantee.

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?action=profile;u=13

[Lsdmeasap]

Have you tried clearing the CMOS for an extended period of time?   I would for sure!  Unplug the PSU from the wall, then press and hold the case power on switch for one minute, then remove the CMOS battery and place a jumper on the clear CMOS pins.  Then let it sit for 3-4 hours to overnight, then put it all back together and try again.

The socket and CPU look fine to me, and it's normal for CPU's to look that way DM I have plenty with several marks way off and they all work.  Pressure just might not be strong enough in all areas to make a indentation, but without bent pins they should all make contact just fine and I don't see any bent pins - although only the first image is semi-good enough to see them all, it looks ok from what I can see.  Better socket images would help for sure!   He may just need to reseat the CPU a few times and try again, but I'd for sure clear CMOS too just to be sure.

Did you ever test with the H70 installed again?   Do that too, maybe your stock cooler is not installing correctly so the board shuts down instantly due to heat.

[sbp]

Have you tried clearing the CMOS for an extended period of time?   I would for sure!  Unplug the PSU from the wall, then press and hold the case power on switch for one minute, then remove the CMOS battery and place a jumper on the clear CMOS pins.  Then let it sit for 3-4 hours to overnight, then put it all back together and try again.

The socket and CPU look fine to me, and it's normal for CPU's to look that way DM I have plenty with several marks way off and they all work.  Pressure just might not be strong enough in all areas to make a indentation, but without bent pins they should all make contact just fine and I don't see any bent pins - although only the first image is semi-good enough to see them all, it looks ok from what I can see.  Better socket images would help for sure!   He may just need to reseat the CPU a few times and try again, but I'd for sure clear CMOS too just to be sure.

Did you ever test with the H70 installed again?   Do that too, maybe your stock cooler is not installing correctly so the board shuts down instantly due to heat.

Thank you for the reply, I will try an extended CMOS (i tried for just over an hour) next weekend, as I have exams this week. And I dont think I can try using the H70 cooler because 1 of the pins is broken and the mounting bracket is annihilated. And before I took it off, temperatures were reaching 80/90+ at idle with no overclock which I think is due to the cooler not being in good contact with the CPU. But I will try again, thank you.

[Dark Mantis]

Hi Lsdmeasap

I take your point about the pin marks on the lands but there seemed to be an excessive number with no marks at all and I have had CPUs that have shown this as a problem. Anyway I agree that better pictures would be a great help.

We did try a CMOS clear but only for an hour or so and possibly an extended clear might work.

I am also wondering if the CPU itself might be damaged as the temperature could easilly have gone over Tmax without the OP even realising it.

[sbp]

Hi Lsdmeasap

I take your point about the pin marks on the lands but there seemed to be an excessive number with no marks at all and I have had CPUs that have shown this as a problem. Anyway I agree that better pictures would be a great help.

We did try a CMOS clear but only for an hour or so and possibly an extended clear might work.

I am also wondering if the CPU itself might be damaged as the temperature could easilly have gone over Tmax without the OP even realising it.

Isnt there a built in safe guard for this? and possibly the CPU is damaged because temperatures I saw reached 90 degrees on 1 or 2 cores. what is the threshold for i5 2500k?

[Dark Mantis]

Yes there is a thermal shutdown that is enabled through the BIOS that is supposed to cut out the CPU if it goes over the temperature ceiling but whether it would work fast enough in this sort of scenario I am not sure. Normally there would be a heatsink attached to the CPU which would work albeit  only passively if the fan stopped or similar occurance.

TMax is 99C

[runn3R]

Hi sbp

Thanks for PM.
I have checked the videos you put on YouTube but I can't find VGA installed on the MB there. Why it is missing?

Please try such method (modified DM's way):

Remove the power cable from the mains supply, leave only 1 stick of RAM and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for around 15 minutes hour.
Short CLR_CMOS pins by screwdriver or metal jumper for a few seconds, then remove jumper.
Replace the battery.
Next plug back into the mains supply and try to boot. Please note you may see up to 12 short restarts (like you've already seen) before the board starts again.
Then please try to add second stick in Dual Channel. Let us know result.

Yes there is a thermal shutdown that is enabled through the BIOS that is supposed to cut out the CPU if it goes over the temperature ceiling but whether it would work fast enough in this sort of scenario I am not sure. (...)

I am sure, otherwise what's the point?

[sbp]

Hi sbp

Thanks for PM.
I have checked the videos you put on YouTube but I can't find VGA installed on the MB there. Why it is missing?

Please try such method (modified DM's way):

Remove the power cable from the mains supply, leave only 1 stick of RAM and then press the power switch on the case for a few seconds just to drain any residual energy in the PSU capacitors.
Once done remove the motherboard battery for around 15 minutes hour.
Short CLR_CMOS pins by screwdriver or metal jumper for a few seconds, then remove jumper.
Replace the battery.
Next plug back into the mains supply and try to boot. Please note you may see up to 12 short restarts (like you've already seen) before the board starts again.
Then please try to add second stick in Dual Channel. Let us know result.

Yes there is a thermal shutdown that is enabled through the BIOS that is supposed to cut out the CPU if it goes over the temperature ceiling but whether it would work fast enough in this sort of scenario I am not sure. (...)

I am sure, otherwise what's the point?

I have taken out the video card because I just want to check the main components are working, which they clearly are not. I am quite sure the powersupply is working fine because I tested another powersupply which resulted in the same problem. The memory has not been touched and am quite sure is working fine. This leaves me to believe the problem lies between the motherboard, cpu and the cooler. I have requested an RMA for the cooler (because mounting bracket screws are broken) and will test when I get back home this weekend and thank you for the replies.

[Dark Mantis]

Hi

Often people are asked to do specific things by whoever is helping them and they might sometimes seem to be irrellevant but there is a reason for doing it that way, hence runn3R asking you to leave only one stick of RAM in while testing.

Quote by runn3r

Quote from: Dark Mantis on May 16, 2011, 02:09:55 pm
Yes there is a thermal shutdown that is enabled through the BIOS that is supposed to cut out the CPU if it goes over the temperature ceiling but whether it would work fast enough in this sort of scenario I am not sure. (...)


I am sure, otherwise what's the point?

The point is that it will help save the chip in normal circumstances which doesn't normally include not having a heatsink attached!  I for one wouldn't be happy to run a system that was complete apart from the CPU cooler. 

[sbp]

ive ordered a 13 pound arctic cooling CPU cooler, so I will try and test that out

[Dark Mantis]

It will be interesting to see how you get on with that installed. Good luck.

[sbp]

Short CLR_CMOS pins by screwdriver or metal jumper for a few seconds, then remove jumper.
Replace the battery.

I dont understand this?

[Dark Mantis]

Yes I did wonder if he might confuse you by saying this. Just forget about the jumper and use a screwdriver or tweezers or anything similar which is conductive. Short the two pins out and wait for a few seconds before removing the screwdriver or whatever else you have used. You can then replace the battery after about an hour.

After that go into the BIOS and load Optimised BIOS Defaults. Make any other changes that you want to while you are there and then save and exit (F10).