GIGABYTE OC FORCE GAMING PC BUILD, Mastercase 5 Racing

[MonsterMawd]

Thank you for allowing me to share my custom PC build with you. I'll be using the GIGABYTE® Z87X-OC with EK water block, which cools Intel Z87 southbridge (PCH), PLX PEX 8474 PCIe lane splitter as well as power regulation (VRM / MOSFETs) module. I'm using Cooler Master Mastercase 5 case and two GTX 980 video cards. Inspiration for the custom painted exterior will be the 1970 Porsche 917 from Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" movie.  All of the liquid lines will be stainless steel tubing.





I scored this new Bitspower Summit EF cpu waterblock cheap on Ebay, and I do like the smoked acrylic top.
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[MonsterMawd]

The Mastercase Pro is the same chassis as mastercase 5, but includes window panel and top cover for $139.99. If I kept waiting for personal time to build a PC for myself, it would have never happened due to lack of free time. I have to admit, I didn't like the Mastercase at first. I captured my mod zoo staff/friends unbox Mastercase 5 / Pro in my VLOG. I feel Cooler Master missed a lot of details that could have made the case even better. Especially since CM marketed it as "modular" and designed for DIY liquid cooling. It falls 40% from it's marketing pitch, but the overall build quality and finish is outstanding and eventually won me over after dismantling and re-assembling the case. Here is my final thoughts about the Mastercase, keeping in mind that I look at cases from perspective as PC Customizer and Case Modder.

RAVES:
*Overall Build Quality, Fit & finish.
*Top panel / cover design options are nice.
*Modular HD/SSD tray design and mounting options are best to date.
*240/360/280 radiator option for front is nice.

My suggestions REVISIONS:
*Top radiator mounting location should be offset, to clear DDR slots on some motherboards
*100% Riveted chassis?! I understand using rivets over screws to save time in manufacturing, but at minimum, the mid section floor should be removable for better access.
*Lack of Water pump and reservoir mounting. CM's competitors started embracing DIY cooling market over year ago, by including mounting options for reservoirs and water pumps.
*Mastercase 5/ Pro window panel is very flimsy. The "smoked" poly window is bluish/purple and has very poor clarity for viewing inside the case.




Inspiration for the custom painted exterior will be the 1970 Porsche 917 from Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" movie. His 917 from the movie was chassis #022 and purchased in 1970 from Porsche by Steve McQueen's movie production company, Solar Productions. It was also the company that would bring the movie "Le Mans" to the big screen. This is the car that McQueen's character, Michael Delaney, starts the race in, and "crashes" late in the race, "writing the car off." The car that was crashed was really a Lola T-70, painted and rebodied, to look like a 917. Many innovations in cinematography, were first tried in this movie. They even went so far, as to weld brackets to the front frame work of the 917, so they could mount a camera to shoot Steve, and the other drivers, in the cockpit.


I'll replacing the #20 with #5 to represent the Mastercase 5 and using this clear side panel.


Cooler Master Mastercase 5 Chassis assembled with final coat of Gulf Racing Blue paint from 1970 Porsche 917 race car


Porsche 917 inspired graphics are finished on the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro. Next stage is clearcoating everything.

[MonsterMawd]

The front I/O panel on the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro is a bit bland for this theme. I decided to modify it with something that looks more race car appropriate. l'll start with steel face plate and chose some switches and controls from Mnpctech that include a red Fighter Pilot with momentary toggle for Main Power. The reset will be blue anodized vandal resistant push. I also found a VDO brand 12 volt gauge from the center console of a Volkswagen Rabbit GTI. I'd love to find some mounting bezels for 5mm LEDs for Power & HD activity.

[MonsterMawd]

For anyone who either already owns or considering buying the Cooler Master Mastercase 5 / Pro, and also DIY liquid cools,  you may have pondered about the maximum radiator thickness allowed? Mounting a radiator inside the chassis you're only limited by how much you're willing to enlarge the factory radiator cut-out. I prefer to buy more internal space and mount my radiator between the chassis and the front bezel, I've outfitted mine with EK's XTX 360 that measures 64mm thick, but not without two compromises. You'll need to create a custom front grill for the bezel, as factory one will no longer fit. You also need trim the backside of the upper horizontal brace under the 5.25 bay location.

Dimensions (LxWxH): 400x130x64mm
Weight: Approx. 1496g
Liquid Capacity: Approx. 510 ml (17,25 fl oz)
FPI: 11
Fan installation: 12 x M3 threads on both sides each (for 3x120mm fan each)
Pressure tested: 1bar

[MonsterMawd]

The XTX radiator will utilize*three*Nidec-Servo*Scythe Gentle Typhoons (Model# D122C). This fan has been regarded as the best static pressure optimized fan by DIY PC community since it's release in 2008. The original D122C is no longer made, but there is limited stock available at some online retailers. Last year the D122C Scythe GT fan was resurrected and manufactured as "Darkside Black Edition" by Dazmode. It's the same specs as the original, but now has Black fan blades. Many PC Modders including myself have painted these fans to fit the color schemes of our custom PC builds. I've been asked several times over the years how to remove the c-clip without losing or breaking it? Like many others, I've also lost these tiny c-clips while learning the best technique for removal. This is my DIY guide to removing and installing external retaining ring or c-clip.

Nidec-Servo's Scythe Gentle Typhoon Factory Spec PDF link, http://www.nidec-servo.com/en/digital/pdf/D1225C.pdf*
Speed: *2150RPM
Air performance : 68.8CFM
Nose: 34db (25cm from the fan, free air)
Power: 12VDC, 0.123A (0.63A peak max)
Operational voltage range: 5-12V (~900rpm-2150rpm)
Bearing: Ball
Expected life: 100000h/35c or 55000h/60c
Appearance: Full black
Dimensions: *119 x 119 x 25 mm / 4.68 x 4.68 x 0.98 in


WARNING:

Perform this task with Safety Glasses, the tiny Black metal retaining ring (c-clip) can and likely will pop off, so perform this task in a clean workspace, so you can find it. I suggest doing the work on a large white bed sheet and holding a large magnet near the fan hub as you remove and re-install the c-clip, to increase you're chances of not losing the c-clip. I haven't found a source for ordering replacement c-clips yet, but I'm still searching.




Here is my suggested Tools & Supplies

Safety Glasses (not pictured)
Heat Gun for removing the fan label. Hair Dryer on HIGH setting will work as well.
10" Wire Cable Tie
Large magnet (not pictured)
External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers
Tweezers
Needle Nose Pliers
Super Glue (not pictured)





External Fixed-Tip Retaining Ring Pliers, http://www.saeproducts.com/retaining-ring-tool.html



The fan blade looks as if it would snap-on and off, but not the case.



We need to remove the back label to access the external metal c-clip on the fan shaft.



Swipe heat gun or hair dryer back and forth over the label.



Use the Tweezer to peel off the fan label.



Stick the fan label on a clean metal surface while you perform your work.



You will tie down the fan hub with this Twisty tie. The fan shaft has a retention spring inside. You need to compress this spring, so you can remove the metal c-clip. If you don't, it's almost a guarantee that the c-clip will fly off the shaft faster than a bullet.



Using Twisty tie to compress the fan hub spring, by tying down the hub to the fan frame.





Close ups of the Black metal c-clip inside the Scythe Gentle Typhoon.





Insert the two prongs of the Retaining Ring Plier inside the jaw of the c-clip.



If you have a large Magnet, Position it near the fan hub, just in case the c-clip pops off.





C-clip Retainer Ring Plier, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/ball-bearing-pc-cooling-fan-external-retaining-ring-or-c-clip-pliers-clone.html



Holding the black metal c-clip in the Retaining Ring Plier.



You will widen the jaw of the c-clip and need to bend it back to it's original opening, so it maintains it's grip.



Hold the c-clip in the Tweezer while using a Needle Nose Plier to compress jaw of the c-clip.



I debated about which color to paint the Scythe GTs for EK's 360 XTX Radiator. Decided to leave the fan blade hubs their factory grey and paint the frames GULF Blue, which works together and helps break up all of the orange.



Primer Coat application not pictured





Clear coat applied



Re-assembled the GTs yesterday with these replacement C-clip Retainer Rings that fit Gentle Typhoon fan axels, http://mnpctech.com/case-mods-gaming-pc-liquid-modding-custom-computer-mnpctech-overclock-cooling-fan-grills/ball-bearing-pc-cooling-fan-external-retaining-ring-or-c-clip-pliers-clone.html 







I use two micro flat head screw drivers to snap the c-clip over the fan motor axle / shaft

[MonsterMawd]

EK's 360mm XTX radiator has convenient port on bottom for draining your loop. I'm using a Koolance Drain Valve with two of their swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions.(Bitspower also makes a nice drain valve) 



Koolance Drain valve (4 way Splitter won't be used in this build)



I'm using two of these Koolance swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions. The others were used in Origin PC build, http://mnpctech.com/genesis-the-evolution-of-the-mod-munky-staff-project-with-origin-pc-genesis-full-tower.html





The two swiveling 90 degree "snake" extensions allow you to angle the drain valve under the Mastercase bezel and foot.



Having the drain valve outside of the chassis makes periodic maintenance of draining and refilling the liquid loop easy.



 Decided on Black wire fan grills for the GTs. I like the look. I guess some would call them "old school" when compared to vast array of fan grills available today, btw All of the machined aluminum parts for Deep Silver's Homefront: Revolution Gaming PC are getting finished, so I'm dividing workshop time between both builds. What a contrast lol, from "don't scratch the paint!" on "what is the best grit to score this finish"on Homefront.

I also swapped out the Black factory thumbscrews for Mastercase SSD trays to machined knurled silver aluminum.

[shadowsports]

Props...  very cool.  Looking forward to seeing the result!

[MonsterMawd]

Thank you shadowsports!

I cut and bent the final piece of SS tubing yesterday. I really liked the challenge in using something different. I also like it's bright metallic finish. It doesn't absorb smudges, fingerprints, so maintenance it easy. The biggest advantage to using stainless for PC water cooling is it's corrosion resistant properties. It does require specialized tools that include a hacksaw with bi-metal cutting blade, hand files and deburr tool. You must deburr the edges of the tubing to avoid slicing into rubber o-rings for your compression fittings. It also requires a specialty bending tool, like a hand pipe or mandrel bender. I recommend the 600 series bender by Rigid Tool or Imperial brand tube benders, these are the lowest cost. Type of stainless tubing I used for my loop is T-304/304L, Seamless Tube in 0.5" x 0.035" x 0.43"

Mnpctech Stainless Steel 1/2" OD Compression Hardline Fitting











Tools & Supplies Used:

*RIGID 600 Series Tubing Bender
*Table Vise with Terry Cloth towel, to avoid scratching tubing.
*Micro Hand File
*Hacksaw with Bi-Metal Cutting Blade
*Table top grinder
*50 grit sand paper

[MonsterMawd]

Dressing up the 120mm Typhoon GT fan with machined overkill grill with Blue anodized washers for M3 screws, http://mnpctech.com/screws-anodized-m3-m4-30mm-35mm-40mm-red-blue-green-gold-ek-alphacool-hardwarelabs-corsair-xspc/



120mm machined aluminum Overkill Ring fan grill, http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-cooling-fans-grills-custom/

[MonsterMawd]

On Saturday I received my DDR sticks, 32GB of Corsair Vengeance. The sticks were Black, so I hit local home improvement store and found a great aerosol substitute paint for the Porsche Gulf Racing Blue, it's Harbor Blue enamel paint by Rustoleum. I'm using these to create a DIY video guide to painting DDR heat spreaders, too!

[MonsterMawd]

 I've been bending the tubing and learning the ways of the Stainless Jedi. I love the look of stainless steel. It echos the fuel and brake lines on race cars, but has it's own learning curve. In retrospect, the scale of PC chassis is just too small for the 1-1/2" bends you get with the SS bending mandrels I've found.. Suppose I could go thicker wall and make custom mandrel, but I'll try 3/8" OD instead of 1/2" OD next time. 

Specs: Stainless T-304/304L, Seamless Tube, 0.5" x 0.035" x 0.43"

[MonsterMawd]

Dressing up the 120mm Typhoon GT fan with machined overkill grill with Blue anodized washers for M3 screws, http://mnpctech.com/screws-anodized-m3-m4-30mm-35mm-40mm-red-blue-green-gold-ek-alphacool-hardwarelabs-corsair-xspc/



120mm machined aluminum Overkill Ring fan grill, http://mnpctech.com/pc-computer-cooling-fans-grills-custom/

[MonsterMawd]

Painted the Koolance GTX 980 blocks, bridges, and back plates the Porsche 917 GULF Racing Blue. 

Dismantled blocks


Primer coat


Water block Bridge


GULF Racing Livery Factory Blue Paint


Koolance GTX 980 waterblocks with final coat


GPU and motherboard cables will be sleeved in Burnt Orange paracord from Ensourced, I'll be making billet combs for them, http://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/

[MonsterMawd]

CORSAIR RMi Series RM1000i is on way along with paracord sleeving. Last piece of hardware on my to-do-list is the SSDs

[absic]

My respects.
This build is looking awesome and I can't wait to see the finished system.