GA z170x-gaming 7 will NOT come on (new build)

[HollyR]

Gigabyte Z170x-gaming 7
Noctua NH-D15 cooler
I7-6700k
Crucial 2x 16GB DDR4
Corsair rm650 power supply
PNY GeForce CT220 graphics

I have checked and rechecked all connections. I even, reluctantly , took everything apart and checked for bent cpu pins. When I power on, fans turn and the on board lights come on for 5-8 seconds then everything clicks off. After a few seconds the whole thing repeats. It almost seems like a car with a dying battery that just can't quite start but tries to turn over. I tried clearing cmos, even removing the battery. Also tried removing the graphics card thinking perhaps they were not compatible but no luck. I haven't installed anything else yet so the only things plugged into the power supply are the main power and the cpu. The graphics card does not have a power supply on it.
Any help would be tremendously appreciated.

[dmdilks]

What memory speed you running ? we Have see a lot of the boards not but with memory not on the list and any thing over 2133.

[HollyR]

I will quote my receipt. Crucial 32GB kit DDR4 2400 CL 16 DR8 DIMM 28
I assume 2400 is the speed?

[Quitis]

If you have a Debug LED code I might be able to help you. If you can't even get that, i'd suggest warranty service or replacement of the motherboard, its probably a dud.

[ex58]

Hi,

try with only 1 stick of RAM (change all 4 slots),
no other hardware except mouse and keyboard.

[HollyR]

I tried 1 stick of RAM in each slot, same result. Never get a debug code. Thanks a million for trying to help.

[sygnus21]

Simple question... did you install the 4/8 Pin ATX EPS12V connector to the Motherboard - Pg. 26/27 of your owner's manual. Motherboard will definitely not start if this connector isn't connected. 

Good luck.

[HollyR]

Simple question... did you install the 4/8 Pin ATX EPS12V connector to the Motherboard - Pg. 26/27 of your owner's manual. Motherboard will definitely not start if this connector isn't connected. 

Good luck.

Thanks so much for the suggestion. Yes, I have that one connected. Good guess though.

[absic]

Hi,

this kind of issue can be really frustrating and trying to find the cause of the problem can be even more annoying.

If I were facing your current situation I would do the following:

If you have built the PC, remove all power leads, GPU etc. Remove motherboard from the PC Case and place it onto the cardboard box that it came in.

Connect the 24 pin main power connector and the 8 pin ATX connector.

Add one stick of RAM

At this stage do not connect the GPU, a monitor, HDD's/SSD's/DVD drive, mouse, keyboard or any other USB devices.

Try to power up using the button on the motherboard.

If it does start correctly, power down. Then add the GPU & monitor and test again.

If it doesn't start then there is probably a problem with one of the four components, Motherboard, CPU, RAM or PSU that you are using.

Carefully remove the CPU cooler and then the CPU. Double check that there are no bent pins in the CPU socket. (I know that you have already done this once but please take the time to check again). If the pins and socket look OK, replace the CPU and the cooler. Be careful when replacing the CPU cooler as over-tightening the screws that connect it to the motherboard can cause issues.

Try to start the system using the on-board power switch.

If it starts, great. If it doesn't then there is not much more that you will be able to test, unless you have lots of spare, compatible components laying around and it is time to start RMA'ing parts.

If you have managed to get it to power up and running, carefully check the PC case for any possible short circuits. Quite often this can be an extra standoff not in the correct position. If everything looks fine, replace the motherboard into the case and try to power up using the on-board power switch.

If it works great. If it doesn't, double check the case to try and isolate the cause of the problem.

If it is working OK start to add parts one at a time and re-test that it still starts properly.

When connecting the leads from the PC case make sure that you are connecting them correctly. It is very easy to, for example, connect the reset lead to the power on headers or vice versa.

[HollyR]

Hi,

this kind of issue can be really frustrating and trying to find the cause of the problem can be even more annoying.

If I were facing your current situation I would do the following:

If you have built the PC, remove all power leads, GPU etc. Remove motherboard from the PC Case and place it onto the cardboard box that it came in.

Connect the 24 pin main power connector and the 8 pin ATX connector.

Add one stick of RAM

At this stage do not connect the GPU, a monitor, HDD's/SSD's/DVD drive, mouse, keyboard or any other USB devices.

Try to power up using the button on the motherboard.

If it does start correctly, power down. Then add the GPU & monitor and test again.

If it doesn't start then there is probably a problem with one of the four components, Motherboard, CPU, RAM or PSU that you are using.

Carefully remove the CPU cooler and then the CPU. Double check that there are no bent pins in the CPU socket. (I know that you have already done this once but please take the time to check again). If the pins and socket look OK, replace the CPU and the cooler. Be careful when replacing the CPU cooler as over-tightening the screws that connect it to the motherboard can cause issues.

Try to start the system using the on-board power switch.

If it starts, great. If it doesn't then there is not much more that you will be able to test, unless you have lots of spare, compatible components laying around and it is time to start RMA'ing parts.

If you have managed to get it to power up and running, carefully check the PC case for any possible short circuits. Quite often this can be an extra standoff not in the correct position. If everything looks fine, replace the motherboard into the case and try to power up using the on-board power switch.

If it works great. If it doesn't, double check the case to try and isolate the cause of the problem.

If it is working OK start to add parts one at a time and re-test that it still starts properly.

When connecting the leads from the PC case make sure that you are connecting them correctly. It is very easy to, for example, connect the reset lead to the power on headers or vice versa.

Well, I have tried everything you suggested and am still getting the same result. I am throwing in the towel and returning the motherboard. Kudos to B&H Photo for taking it back, no arguments. If a new one doesn't fix it I am quitting computers and getting my Brownie camera and slide rule back out.

[dmdilks]

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=17599.0

[HollyR]

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=17599.0

Thanks for that info. It seems very plausible except for the fact that I get this crazy pitiful little attempt to power on even without any RAM installed. Also, I called B&H and they said the RAM I have is approved to use with my board.

[dmdilks]

What is the part # of the memory? Does just support Z170 boards?

These are the only two that are listed.

CRUCIAL 4GB 1Rx8 BLS4G4D240FSA.M8FADM SS Micron 16-16-16-40 1.2v v v v 2400
CRUCIAL 16GB 2Rx8 BLS16G4D240FSB.16FAD DS Micron 16-16-16-39 1.2v v v v 2400

The memory can act just the same as a CPU problem.

[HollyR]

What is the part # of the memory? Does just support Z170 boards?

These are the only two that are listed.

CRUCIAL 4GB 1Rx8 BLS4G4D240FSA.M8FADM SS Micron 16-16-16-40 1.2v v v v 2400
CRUCIAL 16GB 2Rx8 BLS16G4D240FSB.16FAD DS Micron 16-16-16-39 1.2v v v v 2400

The memory can act just the same as a CPU problem.

Well, I'm not sure about part number. The package says Crucial Ballistic 32GB kit 2 16GB DDR4 -2400 UDIMM 1.2v.   If it was a RAM issue why would I get the same symptoms with the RAM (and even the cpu) removed?

[dmdilks]

Like I said that memory will give the same symptoms as a CPU. The older boards would only boot for a few seconds with a CPU problem. But with memory in or out they would still boot.

Today's boards are different any thing like memory or CPU will give you the same thing. Plus leaving the memory is just like if the board can't read it right. If you have memory it can't read it will do the same thing. There should be # on the memory.