GA-X58A-UD5 strange sleep problems, and other problems

[GoodBytes]

Hello everyone,

I recently purchase a new computer, this is my first Gigabyte motherboard, and I would like to express how ridiculously awesome Gigabyte motherboard is! Holy Popsicle Stick! This board is real solid, it feels and smells quality. And this is the first time I build a computer fully, hit the power button, and everything works! No special tricks, no defects, no bended heat pipes, packed with BIOS options and looks like a great overclocking board. Despite my problems I am going to share with you, I am converted to Gigabyte motherboard from now on. Proudly ditching my AS....s wait can I say this here? Anyway, I passed through 2 RMA boards with my previous motherboard manufacture, took them 1 month to process and """repair""" my board (more like sending me someone else broken board) too cheap to remove any dust from it, and hope I won't notice the problem that the other guy faced with his or her board. Then seeing friends and other forum members having serious issues with their board and poor RMA service, I said.. I recall a certain brand called Gigabyte who trashed the company that was my board manufacture, so I did the switch.

Why despite my problems, I am happy with my Gigabyte motherboard? Simple, it works 100000x better than my previous one.

Ok, so to my problems.
Let's start with the big one.. Sleep.

First, let me start by saying my computer specs, and explain what I did so far:

• OS: Genuine Retail Windows 7 64-bit Professional edition
• Motherboard: Gigabyte X58A-UD5 rev 2.0 - BIOS ver: FB
• RAM: 6GB DDR3 1600MHz - G.Skill Pi F3-12800CL7 | Timing: 7-8-7-24
• CPU: Intel Core i7 930 2.8GHz
• GPU: Geforce GTX 260
• PSU: Corsair AX750 - 750W
• HDD: Western Digital WD10001FALS-55J7B0 - 1TB Caviar Back 7200RPM
• Sound Card: Creative X-Fi Xtream Music
• Case: Antec P183
• CPU Heatsink: Noctua NH-U12P SE2
• Monitor (with attached USB hub): Dell U2410

Connected devices directly to motherboard:

• Keyboard: Logitech Illuminated Keyboard
• Mouse: Logitech MX Revolution wireless  Receiver
• Printer: HP LaserJet 1012
• eSATA external HDD: Ventec NexStar3 - Western Digital 500Gb Caviar Blue
• Network: Cat 5e to Linksys WRT160N
• [b:[/b] Cat 5e to Linksys WRT160N

Connected devices directly to monitor USB hub (connected to the eSATA/USB combo port_:

• Webcam: Logitech QuickCam Pro 9000
• Bluetooth: ASUS Bluetooth adapter - USB-BT21

I have a strange problem with my computer while sleep, it works but also doesn't work... it has moods.
So let me explain the best I can with the most details.

If I sleep my computer right now and wake it up, it works. always works. But, if I sleep the computer leave for several hours and come back.. here it's like playing the loto. Here are 2 possible scenarios:
 1- It works. Everything is perfect, and I have a big smile on my face
 2- It wake ups, no image on the screen, BUT there is a signal. Here is where it gets complicated. You can wait and wait, nothing happens, it's like if it's waiting for something... If I turn off my computer using the case power button (press and hold 4sec) , and turn it on: IT WILL NOT BOOT anymore. The BIOS Debug LED's stay stuck at code: 89 - or if you will, based on the manual:

1. Assign IRQ's to PCI devices
2. Set up ACPI table at the top.

You can wait forever, and nothing happens, it stuck there. Restarting the computer won't get anywhere else. I have to turn off the PSU back power switch to OFF and wait several seconds, and switch it back ON, and then turn on the computer. Sometimes, get the "overclock profile fail" error if I get to the BIOS. But, I have not overclocked my computer, even thought the CPU voltage LED turns orange telling the contrary (My test suggest that it's because CPU PPL is set to Auto instead of Normal. If I set it to Normal, Windows gets me a BSOD at startup saying that it's a hardware fault. My CPU voltage is at 1.15V (down-volted).

I made a replica of my BIOS in Flash, because my super old digital camera is master at blurry picture on computer screens, and I don't have a something else to take pictures with.
Here it is: http://tiny.cc/isskv

Please note:
 - My computer doesn't wake up itself. I don't have this problem as I made sure of that.
 - Here is Windows 7 power configuration diagnostics if that helps:
 - Nothing is plugged to my USB 3.0 ports
 - Computer is set to the Balance power plan
 - All IDE channels are set to None. Everything I have is on SATA.


My other problem is related to sleep. This did not happen with my previous computer.
It looks like, in short: Gigabyte + sleep + Zune = fail.
When I sleep my computer with my Zune 120 plug-in to my PC (USB 2.0), the process starts, and as soon as my Zune says that it's no longer connected, my computer wake up immediately. There is NO options in the device manager on the Zune to tell it to not wake up with my computer. The latest Zune software, 64-bit version is installed (I just checked).  

My other other problem is that my PSU performs a high-pitch sound when my computer is sleeping. Seeing that their was many BIOS updates on the UD3R about similar problem, I wonder if a possible fix exists for this board.
Please note that C1E, Green LAN, C3/C6/C7 State support, Erp Support Disabled to significantly reduce PSU and CPU area whine down to minimum. Now it only does it on certain moment, and very low, I can live with that, and the GPU fan noise and sound damping case helps hiding the noise under the carpet. The problem is that when my computer is at sleep, my room is ultra hyper quiet at night. I don't have central A/C (I live in a apt), and I blocks me for sleeping. Now, what I do, is moved my computer in a corner far away from my head when I sleep, so that I don't hear it, but that makes all my wires way to short, and replaces the position of my garbage bin, so by reflex I keep trowing crap at my computer and then realizing that the bin is somewhere else now.

Computer picture (in workings state):

Any help would be really appreciate it. I tried my best to provide you guys with the maximum details I can think off, I hope my effort won't be waited.

[GoodBytes]

Sorry I forgot my energy report form Windows:

[Dark Mantis]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
I read all your testament and now I feel shellshocked
Nobody can say it's not thorough. I did really like your Flash BIOS though.  After checking through it I noticed that you had the HPET set for 64 bit. I know that sounds right but I have read in several places that it is better to leave it set to 32 bit for stability. So I would start by changing that setting and then shoot Zune whoever he is. Seriously from what you have said it would seem like this program isn't helping at all. Can you not shut it down before allowing the computer to go into sleep mode?

[absic]

Hi there,

Don't have an answer for you but just wanted to say what a brilliant post. I wish they were all like this!

[Lsdmeasap]

CPU LED orange would likely be due to QPI/Vtt voltage, either set by you manually, or Auto/XMP.

You may want to try BIOS FC1, sleep issues are normally solved via BIOS update, and I'm not certain if they've worked out the S3 sleep issues for Rev. 2.0 boards yet.

Please use Qflash, and Disable "Keep DMI Data" before you flash, then reboot to BIOS and load Optimized Defaults.  Then save/apply/reboot F10 BACK to the BIOS, and set any SATA/Disk settings you need to, then all other changes you need to make.
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/12/20/2696817/x58aud3r.fc1.zip

Also, is your system 100% Stable?   Tested stable with Memtest86+, Prime96 or other apps?   It must be 100% stable for resume to work properly.

[GoodBytes]

Hi and welcome to the forum.
I read all your testament and now I feel shellshocked
Nobody can say it's not thorough.

Thank you very much. But i have a feeling that my post is soo long that no one, not even Gigabyte pays attention to it.

I did really like your Flash BIOS though.  After checking through it I noticed that you had the HPET set for 64 bit. I know that sounds right but I have read in several places that it is better to leave it set to 32 bit for stability. So I would start by changing that setting and then shoot Zune whoever he is. Seriously from what you have said it would seem like this program isn't helping at all. Can you not shut it down before allowing the computer to go into sleep mode?

Ah yes, few know what this Zune is... well soon more will know with the arrival of Windows Phone 7.
The Zune is Microsoft MP3 player competing with the iPod Classic, and the the Zune HD (powered by Nvidia Tegra) with the iPod Touch.
Both MP3's don't have an app store per say, where people can makes and sell applications for it (that is apparently in the work for Windows Phone 7, which will feature a built-in Zune and will use the Zune software to sync with the PC). The idea of the Zune is that it does 2 main things only: Music and video's. In exchange, it does a superb job, with it's very good sound card, and very durable device. People still have the original first ever Zune, and it still works, including the original headphone, perfectly. It's strength is durability and low price. I got this device because my iPods never last over 1 year, and never works under our Canadian winter. When you are outside, at -25C  the controls don't work, and because of the humidity from going form super cold to warm (inside), breaks the device. I went with the Zune, as all I care is music on the go. And that device works perfectly under our hardest winter days, a mighty -40C. My Zune is 3 years old, and works like if it was new. Sure it's thick, but dam its durable.

The Zune right now is only sold in the U.S. Microsoft pulled out of Canada it was unable to make a deal with the music industry of Canada and Quebec for it's Zune marketplace. It is difficult for Microsoft to get arrangement because of it's revolutionary way in accessing music.
In the U.S: It's unlimited downloads for 15$ per month, and you get to keep 10 songs, DRM free, high quality of your choice.
You have enough song access to fill several time your MP3 player with legal acquired music.

Even at the release of the Windows Phone 7, some countries don't have exactly the same plan service, and some, liek Canada are still left out:
http://www.engadget.com/2010/09/20/microsoft-expanding-zune-internationally-zune-pass-coming-to-to/

So in short, the Zune is an MP3 player, which uses it's own exclusive software called Zune as well.
My problem is that the computer wake up immediately after sleeping when my Zune MP3 player is attached.

To say the truth, this is a problem I can live with. I am sure Gigabyte will be poked to death when Windows Phone 7 comes out and have the same problem, so I am sure a fix will come. Also, my Zune is rarely attached to my computer. I plug it to charge it. To sync, I just sync my Zune MP3 player wirelessly to my PC (yes, you can do this with it).

So, do you think changing the HPET will help?

Hi there,

Don't have an answer for you but just wanted to say what a brilliant post. I wish they were all like this!

Thank you, I just hope people will read this novel.
I always try to post with maximum details on every threads I create, and reply to others, to be the most helpful as I can.

[GoodBytes]

CPU LED orange would likely be due to QPI/Vtt voltage, either set by you manually, or Auto/XMP.

I'll look into it, when I get home.

You may want to try BIOS FC1, sleep issues are normally solved via BIOS update, and I'm not certain if they've worked out the S3 sleep issues for Rev. 2.0 boards yet.

Please use Qflash, and Disable "Keep DMI Data" before you flash, then reboot to BIOS and load Optimized Defaults.  Then save/apply/reboot F10 BACK to the BIOS, and set any SATA/Disk settings you need to, then all other changes you need to make.
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/12/20/2696817/x58aud3r.fc1.zip

Does BIOS update work with a USB memory stick? I don't have a working floppy drive and a floppy disk.
Also, I am not comfortable updating my BIOS with a different board BIOS.

Also, is your system 100% Stable?   Tested stable with Memtest86+, Prime96 or other apps?   It must be 100% stable for resume to work properly.

My system, even under-volted is 1000% stable with GoodBytes Premium StressTest
 - Intel BurnTest - maximum level all 8 threads
 - HDD and external HDD stress test Everest system stability
 - Memory and northbridge stress test with Everest system stability
 - Internet radio and download a large file to push the Ethernet and Sound card
 - FurMark with Xtremeburn

All at the same time for 12 hours.
Is that stable enough?

[Lsdmeasap]

CPU LED orange would likely be due to QPI/Vtt voltage, either set by you manually, or Auto/XMP.

I'll look into it, when I get home.

You may want to try BIOS FC1, sleep issues are normally solved via BIOS update, and I'm not certain if they've worked out the S3 sleep issues for Rev. 2.0 boards yet.

Please use Qflash, and Disable "Keep DMI Data" before you flash, then reboot to BIOS and load Optimized Defaults.  Then save/apply/reboot F10 BACK to the BIOS, and set any SATA/Disk settings you need to, then all other changes you need to make.
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/12/20/2696817/x58aud3r.fc1.zip

Does BIOS update work with a USB memory stick? I don't have a working floppy drive and a floppy disk.
Also, I am not comfortable updating my BIOS with a different board BIOS.

Also, is your system 100% Stable?   Tested stable with Memtest86+, Prime96 or other apps?   It must be 100% stable for resume to work properly.

My system, even under-volted is 1000% stable with GoodBytes Premium StressTest
 - Intel BurnTest - maximum level all 8 threads
 - HDD and external HDD stress test Everest system stability
 - Memory and northbridge stress test with Everest system stability
 - Internet radio and download a large file to push the Ethernet and Sound card
 - FurMark with Xtremeburn

All at the same time for 12 hours.
Is that stable enough?

Yes you can update BIOS via USB stick, here is my guide.   You will be fine updating, just don't do it during a storm and you will be ok.
http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/27576-bios-flashing-how-qflash-guide.html

SORRY about the board/BIOS confusion, you are right I gave you the wrong link and BIOS version!!!

It would have just failed to flash anyway, so you would have been fine.

For UD5 there is the Gigabyte Overclock Open Championship BIOS, but that is not really needed, but then again it could have some fixes others do not have yet.
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/12/20/2696817/GOOC2010.zip

You may be OK using FB, I forgot you were using UD5 and was just suggesting FC1 for UD3R to someone, so sorry again for suggesting it!

How many passes of Intel Burn test do you use, at MAX memory right?

I think you should still also always test with Memtest86+ and prime95 as they can find errors where LinX/IBT does not.

[GoodBytes]

But first, let me present my great appreciation in helping me with my problem.
You guys are awesome!

Ok update time!
 - I did not try the BIOS update.. I'll try in a moment.

All I wanted to say is I THINK I know why my computer, sometimes doesn't wake up properly.
3 days ago I updated my Nvidia drivers with the latest beta release. And since, I noticed that when I wake up my computer from a long sleep, I now get an image on the screen (I get the Windows 7 unlock screen), which is great! So it was Nvidia drivers? right?

No, what I noticed is that my computer freezes on wake up. You see, I wake up the computer now, I see on my screen Windows 7 unlocked screen (normal), but my keyboard and mouse doesn't work (could it be the USB controller ?!)

What I did notice is that every time my computer doesn't wake up successfully from a long sleep, is because my external HDD is turned on.
I think what happens is that when I sleep my computer, my external HDD still spins as I access data recently, but when I put the computer to sleep, after some time, my external HDD spins down (remember that eSATA HDD's uses it's own power, and spins down on it's own when no data is beeing accessed for a while), and when I wake up the computer, perhaps the SATA controllers waits for my external HDD, but as I am not accessing any files on it, the external HDD doesn't spin up, and I think that freezes the computer (probably waits for it and never gets a response and times out), and then as mentioned, I need to turn it off, and turn off the switch on the back of my PSU to really cut power else it won't boot.

BUT, the last time I did something different, I turned off my external HDD FIRST while in my frozen PC on the Windows 7 lock screen, and just restarted the computer.... and it booted fine. No need to go back down on the back and turn off the PSU power switch.

And now, come to think of it, every-time my computer comes out of sleep fine, my external HDD is turned off (no power) when I put it initially to sleep, or my external HDD is still spinning.

So, it's clear, that my whhooollle entire mystery sleep problem that I am facing (except for the Zune, but I don't really care)  is because of my external HDD.  More testing is for sure needed, but so far that is the conclusion. Any thought? or possible solutions before I try this new BIOS?

[GoodBytes]

Ok, so:
 - I updated the BIOS with Q-Flash with my trusty fairly new USB memory key with the BIOS that you gave me. Yes I did Disabled "Keep DMI data".
 - Once done, I did "Load Optimized Default", then restarted the computer, and then set my BIOS settings.
 - The settings I changed is:

• HPET Mode from 32-bit to 64-bit mode.
• Disabled Power On by Mouse
• Disabled Power On by Keyboard
• Disabled Resume by Alarm
• Disabled Power On by Ring
• Disabled PME Event Wake Up
• Set eSATA controller to AHCI
• Set the Intel controller to AHCI
• Disable C1E
• Made sure that C3/C6/C7 State Support is Disabled
• Set Extreme Memory Profile to Profile1
• Down-volted my CPU to 1.12500V
• Set Load-line Calibration (under Advance Voltage Settings) to Standard (other options: Auto/Level1/Level2)
• QPI/Vtt set by default to Auto (other option is Normal and setting a value from a list
• As for the rest of the options under Advance Voltage Settings I left it as "Auto" (before they were set to Normal)

NOTE: My Orange LED for the CPU LED is still ON!
If I define QPI/Vtt to what the Normal , then when Windows startup, I get a BSOD saying "The system encountered an uncorrectable hardware error". BUT my orange LED is gone!. If I leave it to Auto then obviously Windows boots fine.
IF i give it a bit more voltage (1.195V) than my CPU voltage ORANGE LED is off, and windows boot fine. I recall doing this when I got my board.. but I forgot why I changed it back to before....  I guess I'll find out (or maybe it's fixed in this BIOS).


As for your question on Intel Burn Test utility, yes it was set to Maximum, and I re-ran it when it was right after it was completely done.

When I got to sleep, I'll test my memory with MemTest86 and use Prime96 as advise.

I think that covers everything? Did I forget anything?

Now we will see in the next few days if this new BIOS and new BIOS settings helped.

[Dark Mantis]

Well it seems that you are getting there and everything that you posted above looks fine. What you were saying about the ESATA drive sounds about right. I can't think of any easy answer to it straight away but I will have a think about it and get back to you.

[GoodBytes]

Ok the eSATA external drive has nothing to do with the problem it was just coincidence.
When I updated the BIOS, I told myself after, "What I have a preipheral plug-in into my system that I did not have with my old computer" The Answer was my blutooth adapter. So out it go.
Sleep feature worked like a charm... or so I though.  It was working gretat as I always sleep my computer manually. But today, I left my computer ON when I left the house, and after 30min (set myself in the power options to sleep after 30min idle) it sleep (100% normal), I came back 2 hours later, external HDD was turned (as today it's not a backup system day), and hit Ctrl key to wake up computer... and teh wake up failed.

Here is EXACTLY what happen at the wake up.
I pressed a random key on my keyboard (Ctrl this time), my keyboard light up (it's the Logitech illuminated keyboard), turns off, at the same time my GPU kick starts it's usual startup where the fan goes at 100% for 2-3 sec, and comes back down to 40% and then an image shows. BUT this time, instead of an image, the fan re-kicked at 100%, stayed at 100%. I have no image on the screen. If I hit Num Lock key, the light on the keyboard turns on and off in less than a second.

I then turn off the computer with the case power button (press and hold 4 sec), and turn the computer back on, and the problematic cycle starts again, where the BIOS shows a blinking "_" line at the top left corner of the screen, and nothing.
The only fix I found is, as mentioned, killed the computer power by turning off the power switch of the PSU on the back of the computer, wait 30sec or so, turn it back on (BTW, if you don't wait 30sec or so, and turn it back on, the same problem happens again), and then turn on the computer normally and everything is fine.

NOTE: I noticed with this BIOS that the settings don't reset this time, with no "Overclock failed" message when going in the BIOS.


So it seams that if I sleep the computer manually I don't have any problem (hopefully that was not a coincidence) and automatic cause SOMETIMES to screw up.


I wonder if it has to do with all the error I see in the energy report which I posted in my previous post. :S

[GoodBytes]

update:

 - I thought of something.. what I have that most people don't in term of BIOS settings. Why no else noticed this problem? Or am I the only Gigabyte UD5 users that puts it's computer to sleep.
I noticed that I did disable Gigbayte SATA controller as I don't use them (makes booting a bit faster). This time I set them to be enabled and default settings.. maybe when the computer wakes up, the BIOS has a bug and wait for them. I guess we will have see in a few days if I am lucky or not.

Oh yes, when I did this, I notice that when the computer booted for the first time, just before Windows 7 starts up, I saw a message saying "updating SATA 3", followed with an Hex code which changed, when it was done, it restarted itself after, and now like nothing happened. Maybe, this might be a good sign in the sense that the update probably fixed my sleep problem.

Also, I tried for the first time to attach my Zune to my monitor powered USB hub, and if it's plugged there, then the Zune doesn't make my computer wake up as soon as it sleeps. So, that a problem that I can call solve (not really solved, but an acceptable compromise. Especially that I notice that I am not alone with this issue. So I guess it's a Zune issue more than anything. I am just surprised I was not affected with my old motherboard. Maybe it doesn't like new motherboards?! Who knows.

[GoodBytes]

Ok, Well everything seams to be working perfectly.
So lesson:
 - Leave all voltage to Auto, except QPI/Vtt and CPU voltage (well that is because I wanted to under-volt my CPU).
I don't know if it's safe or not, but setting QPI/Vtt to 1.175V is not enough power as I get a BSOD when Windows starts (probably because my CPU is under-volted), so it to 1.195V (next step in voltage increase), which seams to have everything working fine. Setting it to Auto, turns on my voltage LED (near the CPU) to orange.

I solved my Zune problem.. I uninstall the ON/OFF Charger driver, and now I can sleep my computer WITH my Zune.

Thank you very much everyone! I really appreciate the help on this difficult problem

I am super happy that my computer runs perfectly now.
Gigabyte rules!  

[Lsdmeasap]

Nice to see you got it all sorted out!!